OK, Tecate guys and any others who don't mind chiming in.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Alright, thanks to help from bordies like dirtcrasher and Kasey, I was able to get my engine halves back together and in working order. Patience is a virtue.

Now, I have some questions, now that part is out of the way i plan to start my slow journey to get the engine finished up. I want to rebuild the top end and get it going. (This will take some time as finances allow)

1. What is the best recommendation for a nikasil plate for the cylinder? Isn't there places that will nik it and match up a piston for it? and send a piton kit back with it? I'd like to get the whole kit and kaboodle if possible.
2. My water impleller has a fin and a half missig so I need to replace that. Does Kawi still ofer them?
3. What carb is best recommended for this. remember it is going to be virtually stock except maybe some reeds and possible a pipe. Maybe a 36mm flat side?
4. I am using 18 fast trekkers for the rear. What gearing should I use for the rear sprocket?

Any advice is greatly appreciated. thanks.

[3wheelmecca]

I would run a round slide keihin or a PJ for a carb. Thse perform well. Mikuni VMX would work nicely by what I've heard.
how bad is the cylinder?
I would just go with a Wiseco piston kit. Gives you all you need and will work with any plating. SCEM, Pro-Lite, Electrofusion, etc.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Thanks for the info. as far as the cylinder it looks really good. It look like the nik is still there but I figured I was obligated to get it replated or if it quit running I would get major flack from the guys around here for taking a "stupid"short cut, you know? If i could save the money on the nik i would love to. Thanks bro.

[Tecate 50]

US Chrome (Pricey).....380.00 comes with Wiseco Piston
PWK Carb....199.00 from ESR
Tires will do the trick!

Just my thoughts....!

[3Razors]

If the plating is good no need to replate it, thats why Kawi used nic to begin with. Get a fresh oem piston and go ride. I still have tecates on the original plating that run good as day 1. If there are doubts on the cylinder condition get an experts opinion. Also Langcourt.com will replate for $150-175. Impellers are still avail from kawi. 36-38mm Keihin or Mikuni is good choice carb. If your looking for a good flatslide carb for cheap just look up on ebay for used 125-500cc dirtbike oem carbs, they all came with with that type carb and can be had for under $50, but you will have to rejet from scratch.

[NOS_350X]

Agreed with what 3 razrs said about the carbs

but for the plating, If there is any scaring it needs to be replated. It will wear in time. but it does last much longer than a bore and has a lot more performance.

Here is an awesome company for plating.

http://www.mt-llc.com/

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Thank you all for the advice. very helpful. The cylinder does look really good. No scratches or scars or anything. Still looks like a nickle color also, no steel color at all.
Will the 18" tires be ok without gearing the rear sprocket then? Also, do they make billet axle carriers for 85 T3 like they do for 350X's? That would be sweet.

I did call the kawi dealer and can order an impeller so I'm good there.

Does anyone still sell the number plate style radiator guards for the 84/85's? The ones that zip tie on? They use to be on ebay but cant find them now.

[NINJA]

DC Plastics has the number plate.

http://dcvmx.com/xcart/home.php?cat=298

[nd4speed]

I would think the 13 /42 gearing is way too tall for 18". 14/36? 14/37? 14/38? I dont know really.

Lots of rear Polaris sprockets fit. Check my interchange thread.

Why not use the carb you have at first?

Why Nikasil if the cylinder aint broke?

[Vootie]

Stock gearing stinks with 18's. I'm running 14/37 and it's pretty good for me, I'd have to say it's just a tad higher gearing than stock with 22's.

[Tecate 50]

Im currently running 13-37 with 18's on mine! It runs strong balls to the wall for about 300 feet then signs off! I'm still playing with the gearing, but its trial and error. Everyone has differant combinations with cc's, carbs, pipes! My current set up is a big bore.....

[RoscoW]

I'm running 14-42 with 18's and it signs off way too early for general riding , the same gearing with 20's was just about right. I have a 15 front but haven't tried it yet ( needed a bit of chain stretch to get it too work.

Ross..

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Well, I suck. Seriously. I am a total dumb azz apparently. I was all ready for this. I took several months, went through the manual with a fine tooth comb and got advice here at ever single turn. I was starting to finish putting stuff on the engine and decided to double check the tranny and make sure it was shifting properly (after it appeared fine just a short time ago) and the tranny seems like its screwed up. Doesn't want to shift right. the sprocket shaft has a bit of play in it. I clamped vise grips on the shifter to check the shifting and low and behold it seems my dumb azz did something wrong. I'm so disgusted with myself because i thought all was well and now this. I went through that trans at least 5 times before I assemble the cases too. i have no clue what is wrong but i literally give up. I guess I'll have to pay someone else to fix my f up. I'm so pissed and frustrated right now i could spit nails.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Thank you all for the gearing and number plate info.

[Slingblade]

The shifter will act a little funny with just the bottom end together, and you have to turn the sprocket shaft while your shifting it to make it act right at all, it will test your coordination. I'm not saying you didn't do something wrong, but don't give up just yet. You won't be able to just go through the gears without the transmission turning. Start in neutral, and while turning the sprocket shaft, go through the gears one at a time. I've only rebuilt mine once but from what I saw, if you got your shifter forks in the right place and the drum and pins were fully seated in the case, it's pretty hard to screw it up.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

OK, I'll try that. maybe that is all that is wrong with it. I will say this, I seem to be having a hard time getting it into neutral. I shift it all the way down and try the half shift up and it seems like it passes neutral and goes right to second. Is that a sign of a problem or is that just one of those touchy things also? Thanks for your help.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Nope, not the problem. Just tried it. I got it to shift through the gears but this time as I turned the crank and sprocket shaft and shifted it got wedged at one point. I can still spin the crank but it will spin to a certain point then stop. I'm kinda leaning that maybe i didn't get something seated properly and it came loose and is wedged in there. Sooooooooooo, back apart with those damn cases again. I'm losing my enthusiasm for this. It's my first time opening cases and i was excited about learning it but the only thing i'm learning is I caused myself a headache and should have let someone with brains do it for me.:mad:

[Red Rider]

I've never split the cases on a Tecate before, but I've done several 250R's & a Yamaha 80, and as long as you have a manual to guide you, they've all seemed pretty straightforward. Good luck & I hope you get it figured out without having to shell out.

[fabiodriven]

I run 15/42 with my 20's and 15/38 with the 18's. I also have a 36 tooth rear I haven't tried yet. I was going to bring that one ice racing just in case the 15/38 was too deep.

[Slingblade]

I really hate to see you have to split those cases again. Again, I'm not saying you DIDN'T do something wrong, but I did go through the same thing after I got mine together. I would try going through the gears while turning the transmission and it would get hung between gears and lock up. I'm not sure what all you have assembled, but you need it where the transmission will turn free (without the crankshaft turning). You also need the outer shifter fully assembled with the spring in place, this makes it a little tricky since the side cover is what holds the bushing tight on the shifter shaft. Watch your shift star and it will tell you if its in a gear or between. If you quit turning that shaft when you shift the gear sometimes it will be between gears,and you'll kinda have to "rock" it back and forth. I told you it would test your coordination, it might help if you have another hand to help you. I just hate to see a brother have to go back in there. I finally got my coordination right, went through all my gears while keeping things in motion, said "That works for me", put it all back together, and it was fine. But don't let me talk you into anything, peace of mind and knowing it's right means a-lot. Just make sure.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I run 15/42 with my 20's and 15/38 with the 18's. I also have a 36 tooth rear I haven't tried yet. I was going to bring that one ice racing just in case the 15/38 was too deep.

How does the 15/38 do for ya? Does it pull through all the gears without signing off at any point?

[fabiodriven]

I didn't spend enough time with it to get conclusive evidence that it would be OK. All I remember is 15/42 was absolutely NOT going to work with 18's. 15/38 was a drastic improvement, but I needed to spend a little more time with it. I never got around to getting it completely sorted out.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I really hate to see you have to split those cases again. Again, I'm not saying you DIDN'T do something wrong, but I did go through the same thing after I got mine together. I would try going through the gears while turning the transmission and it would get hung between gears and lock up. I'm not sure what all you have assembled, but you need it where the transmission will turn free (without the crankshaft turning). You also need the outer shifter fully assembled with the spring in place, this makes it a little tricky since the side cover is what holds the bushing tight on the shifter shaft. Watch your shift star and it will tell you if its in a gear or between. If you quit turning that shaft when you shift the gear sometimes it will be between gears,and you'll kinda have to "rock" it back and forth. I told you it would test your coordination, it might help if you have another hand to help you. I just hate to see a brother have to go back in there. I finally got my coordination right, went through all my gears while keeping things in motion, said "That works for me", put it all back together, and it was fine. But don't let me talk you into anything, peace of mind and knowing it's right means a-lot. Just make sure.

Thanks. I like your advice. I'll keep at it.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I didn't spend enough time with it to get conclusive evidence that it would be OK. All I remember is 15/42 was absolutely NOT going to work with 18's. 15/38 was a drastic improvement, but I needed to spend a little more time with it. I never got around to getting it completely sorted out.

That's cool. I'll play with it myself and report what i figure out as well.