200e...frustration...

[Rjfabwerx]

So I threw a $16 Ebay carb kit at my 83 200e today hoping it would solve some issues but it still runs about the same...what it's STILL doing is basically flooding itself out...I "think" the only thing it can be is the float level at this point...it will run ok with the choke on and the gas turned on and then all of the sudden get choppy and gas starts pouring out of the overflow tube...I turn the gas and choke off and it runs fine for a minute but before the bowl is even out of gas it will run crappy and die...I don't know what it could be other than the float level and I didn't mess with that yet...So basically if it's running and gas is turned on, gas starts spewing out of the overflow with the choke on or off and it dies...I turn the gas off and it runs ok for a little bit...think it's just the float level?...any other ideas? The previous owner had the throttle needle ring on the very top clip...my manual said to put it on the 3rd clip so I did...This kit I used was all new needles and jets, etc...No old parts left in there and I put any setting back as close as I could to where they were...Thanks guys!

[mtsnieg]

I usually bench test the float level before I put it back on. Put the carb gently in a vise sitting level. Hook up a clear line to the bottom of the float bowl and run it above the bowl. Open the drain screw on the bottom of the bowl. The fuel will go up as far as the level of fuel in the bowl. As a general rule of thumb I like to run the fuel level 1/8 to 1/4 inch below the bowl gasket and I'm usually golden.

[mtsnieg]

Also if you raise the c-clip on the needle, you lower it's position thus allowing less fuel to flow, I think.

[shortline10]

Try running it with the gas cap removed to see if its a venting problem if no difference its a float/seat issue .

[Rjfabwerx]

Awesome, thanks guys! I'll tear back into it tomorrow evening...wasn't entirely sure how to test that float level, just prayed it was somewhat on the money...I'll definately try running it again with the gas gap off...it has the style with the off/on lever, maybe something is just not right with that...My old YT used to dump gas like this thing is and I discovered that someone had robbed the needle from under the float so it did run but dumped gas...this does have a needle and it's sorta doing the same thing so I think it must be the float level...fingers crossed...Thanks again for the pointers!

Ryan

[Rjfabwerx]

Also maybe they raised that clip on the needle to the top one to try fixing this problem...would make sense...either way, I'm going to fix it so it runs good in the position it recommends to run it in, the 3rd knotch...thanks again!

[tri again]

Float needle and seats can act funky when new too.

Clean the seat with some mystery oil and a Q tip, I also had 2 DIFFERENT length float needles in similar repair kits, like different by a spark plug gap and almost didn't notice.

I turn the carbs over while blowing into them and see if the air stops flowing when I turn them upside down before I put them back on...meaning the float is shutting off.

You can also hook a fuel line to the float drain while it's still on the engine and see how high it goes.
Credit to mtsneig

I've also had about half my carb 'repairs' leak out the overflow until I tap on them ever so gently to get the float and needle to find a home.

do NOT ride it leaking fuel.

They do catch on fire and is almost not worth fixing after a fire. and add in the lost time for a hospital run.

Be careful, you'll get it.

sn on the float level.

I'll run across the pasture and get halfway back before the trike dies, because I forgot to turn the fuel on and it runs great all the way till it dies...about 1500 feet.

so that should tell you how critical the float level actually is.
I'd say better a little low than too high and leaking.

I also had one leak a quart of fuel into the engine, filled the cylinder and crankcase with gas.

[tri again]

ps

did your float happen to take on fuel and sink?

do you hear sloshing fuel inside the float when you shake them?

I've only seen that once but never forgot it (till now)

[Texas 200x]

^ Joe is right about checking the float needle by flipping it upside down and seeing if you can blow air in it. Do you run a fuel filter if not you may be dirtying up the new carb. Its easy for trash to clog up the seating surface. Also check that the float pivots up and down smoothly.

[ailll1]

By the way moving the c-clip on the needle wont change anything with the float height, it only changes the quantity of gas getting suck into the engine past 1/2 or 3/4 throttle.

[Rjfabwerx]

Ended up being a rainy, crappy day today/tonight so gonna work on it tomorrow if it's nicer...When I had it apart, I really didn't notice any slaushing or anything "inside" the float...it did seem like maybe it was a little heavy though, kinda pushing down on the needle spring more than I think it should have...maybe that's the problem...either way, I'll check the float level and make sure there's nothing inside of the float tomorrow...I really appreciate all of you guys' help...I'm sure one thing or the other will solve this issue...I haven't messed with floats much other than taking the pin out and cleaning it so it can move freely...that's about my expierience with that part of it, lol...I just wanna have this thing ready when the snow flies...may "try" riding the 250r in the snow but want to putt around with the kids in the snow and stuff this year...has the tires for it, that's for sure...I just bought this thing about 3 weeks ago...it's in good shape other than this carb issue...thing the darn tires are new, still have the little whiskers sticking out of them and they are the knobbiest tires I have ever seen for mud, etc...Well guys, thanks again and I'll let you know how it comes out...

Ryan

[CRAZY70MAN]

Ended up being a rainy, crappy day today/tonight so gonna work on it tomorrow if it's nicer...When I had it apart, I really didn't notice any slaushing or anything "inside" the float...it did seem like maybe it was a little heavy though, kinda pushing down on the needle spring more than I think it should have...maybe that's the problem...either way, I'll check the float level and make sure there's nothing inside of the float tomorrow...I really appreciate all of you guys' help...I'm sure one thing or the other will solve this issue...I haven't messed with floats much other than taking the pin out and cleaning it so it can move freely...that's about my expierience with that part of it, lol...I just wanna have this thing ready when the snow flies...may "try" riding the 250r in the snow but want to putt around with the kids in the snow and stuff this year...has the tires for it, that's for sure...I just bought this thing about 3 weeks ago...it's in good shape other than this carb issue...thing the darn tires are new, still have the little whiskers sticking out of them and they are the knobbiest tires I have ever seen for mud, etc...Well guys, thanks again and I'll let you know how it comes out...

Ryan

It's all in here....http://72.52.143.80/~trikes/Manuals/ATC%20manuals/Honda%20200E%20Big%20Red%201982-83%20CD.pdf Sounds like an easy fix brother.....good luck.

[Rjfabwerx]

Thanks man! I needed that ;)

[tri again]

hey ya know I forgot about that teeny tiny spring thing inside the float needle itself.

Some have it and some don't. Too many carbs in my head but that could certainly cause headaches and make the floats ride higher.

It only moves like the thickness of a cardboard matchstick and springs in and out unless it's stuck, or again
like I said,
I had 2 different length float needles in 2 similar repair kits.
Almost didn;t believe my eyes and the kits had the SAME part numbers

[Rjfabwerx]

Yea those parts can be very hard to see any difference in...I actually HATE carburetors but I know the only way for me to learn is to do it myself...Gonna go out shortly and git-r-dun (please God hopefully I pray:) Thanks for the pointers drjoe!

[mike1979]

dont forget to get a new plug as well