84 200x fork seals

[chud200x]

so my 200x is pukin oil from the forks what kinda job is it to replace these seals.
What parts do i need to buy for sure,.?? Advice please

[scottytohotty48]

Hey man I had the same problem with mine. Took me about ten minutes to get the thing appart not hard at all. There's a hex bolt on the bottom of the fork take it off and the take the cap of the top. Tilt the top into and oil pan and pump put all the oil remove the springs and the dampener and oil lock peice. Take the dust seal off I was worried Bout breaking mine but there only 15 bucks for the oil seal dust seal and snap ring from Honda. Then work with the bottom part out of the fork take thE snap ring off and take the oil seal out. If it's seized like mine heat a towl with water and put it around the lower fork this still didn't help me so I chipped mine out with a chisel carefully! Buy the seal kit from Honda 15 bucks a fork and throw some new oil in there and trailprotrailpro good to go

[chud200x]

Cool deal my manual says they take atf should i use that or is there something better now.....

[shortline10]

Cool deal my manual says they take atf should i use that or is there something better now.....



ATF works good or you can get fork oil at your local motorcycle shop . Is a messy job so be prepared for oil going every ware LOL .

[jb2wheels]

It's easy if you've done fork seals before - about as easy as they get. If it's your first time, it can be intimidating. A few tips:

Get a manual and review the procedures. The manual also has pictures so you know where all the parts go when it comes apart.

Clean everything first to keep dirt out including under the fork boots, dust caps, and the bottom of the forks.

Loosen the upper tripple tree clamps before loosening the cap in the top of the forks. The clamps squeeze on the forks there and make it hard on the threads.

When threading the upper caps in or out, you have to push on them a little to offset the spring pressure on them.

If you don't have an impact wrench, the allen head bolt in the bottom can be difficult to get out. Try this: before removing the cap from the top of the forks, loosen the bolt in the bottom. With the cap on and springs and such in, there's some resistance on the damper rods and you should be able to get the bottom bolt loose.

It's easier to loosen the upper cap and lower bolt while the forks are still clamped in the lower tripple. Once everything is loose, then take the forks out to finish the job.

If this is the first time these forks have been opened in 26 years, the stuff that comes out might be really nasty. One set of mine were. Once I dumped the muck out, I poored about a cup of mineral spirits in, cycle the forks a few times, and dumped it out. I had to do this 5 time before it came out clean. Then I took the forks apart and cleaned everything.

I use a piece of PVC pipe to push the bushing and seals back in. Great tool for $2.

You can get Parts Unlimited seals for the 200x for under $10. I used ATF because I had some.

Check the inner tubes for nicks, chips, rock dings, etc and fix with a file, sandpaper or whatever you got. Nicks will ruin fork seals fast.

Use good fork boots to protect the inner tubes and seals. The boots minimize chips and nicks and help keep dirt and sund and mud and water away from the seals.

[Dirtcrasher]

It isn't a difficult job, but the simplest of mistakes can cause the new ones to leak again; And I only run OEM.......

One thing I do is cut the corner off of a plastic bag, put fork oil on it and slide the new seal and dust seal over that. I also make sure every part is spotless; I use furnace cleaning brushes to get deep into the lower tube which is where all the gunk lives. The seal and back up washer also need to be spotless. Make sure whatever you use to hammer in the tube bushing and tube seal don't harm the seal. I have a driver with a small ID for the bushing on one end and a large OD for the seal on the other end.

It's just MY procedure, maybe I should have been a surgeon..... :lol: then again, I make as many mistakes as the rest of you so that wouldn't be good.

Oh yeah, and if they are bent, it usually shows in the bushings; The coating wears off on one side and not evenly on both legs. We don't all have the equipment to check for a bent leg but 80% of all 200X forks are bent. They are small and don't have a thick wall..........

Get the service manual, read some posts, ask questions as you do it and you'll be good.