View Full Version : Tecate flywheel on all the way or not "pics included"
Meat-BoX
10-30-2010, 01:04 PM
Ok Im gonna give the Tecate another try for this winter. I had Bought a New Ricky Stator set up last year and 20 minutes after installing it, the screws holding the coils on backed out and grenaded the whole setup. I had a new one sent and the Flywheel just didnt seem to want to fit on the shaft. The Stator they sent me wasnt Loc Tighted either so I guess everyone should be aware of the possibility and check the screws holding the coils on the stator plate. I just checked the Fly Wheel I.D. and its just about .530 at the front and about .800 at the back. The front of the Crank Shaft O.D. is about .613 so the Flywheel only goes on the shaft half way or so. Thats the best I can figure. The Fly Wheel is the wrong one maybe. Does any one know the proper O.D. of the Crank Shaft and the proper I.D. of the Flywheel. Now Im wondering if Ricky Stator sent me the wrong setup. I couldnt get any spark at all when it was on and all plugged in. Also what are the possibilities that the stator coming apart at 70mph may have fried my electrical system or maybe bent the Crank shaft? Or If it is the wrong setup would I get spark or not? Any help will be appreciated. Also, when installing the second flywheel the Bolt broke off in the Crank Shaft. I got it out but now need the proper bolt. Is that something I can get at a Fastner place or from Kawasaki? And what Bolt is it?
This is the only thing left to do on the Tecate and its been long enough. I would like to really get out on the ice this winter.
Dirtcrasher
10-30-2010, 01:39 PM
They should have at least used blue loctite on the coils.
Sounds like it was running so I imagine it's correct but I'd call hem and beyatch about it falling apart. Maybe they'll give you some coils/assembly at cost in the future.....
Can't hurt to ask!
If the flywheel jammed in there, it could have bent the crank but what does it hit? the aluminum case? Even at speed I can't see tht bending a flywheel half. They're made from some pretty strong tool steel I'm sure........... I can't see that bending a crank half.
scooterroo
10-30-2010, 07:37 PM
well compare it to the one you already have? can you measure the one that you took off to replace it? they probably sent you the wrong one.
sblt500r
10-30-2010, 11:33 PM
you can still get the bolt and washer from kawie. think the bolt is $1.50 and the washer is like $4.50. you'd think the bolt would cost more!
Meat-BoX
11-04-2010, 02:15 PM
Cant find my original flywheel for some reason so if anyone has some measurements of the I.D at the front and back that would be great. I just got off the phone with Ricky Stator and they are so nice and helpfull. They are willing to send me a 3rd setup but first I want to take the stator off and see if the flywheel goes on the shaft. If not, maybe when the 1st setup grenaded it messed up my crank shaft. They said they would replace anything that was damaged and to be honest I find that hard to believe that they would pay for a complete tear down and replace the crank shaft. But they sounded sincere and I think they actually may do that. I dont think anything is wrong with the shaft but I really dont know. I will post pics of it. I want to say the key looks like its short on the shaft and its loose. Maybe it broke? Im gonna dig into it this weekend and see whats up. They said they want me riding asap, and so do I. Broken body and all, been laid up to long since that truck pulled out in front of me and I need to ride. I should be able to handle flat stuff and circle tracks by the time the lakes freeze.
Meat-BoX
11-12-2010, 02:18 PM
109187109188109189Does this look correct. This as far as the Flywheel will go onto the crank shaft? Seems like its not on far enough but maybe im wrong. These pics are without the stator installed. The end of the shaft to the inner face of the flywheel in pic 1 is about .463 of an inch which means the bolt has about a half an inch before it even touches the threads in the shaft. The 3rd picture shows the timing tab on the case and the marks on the flywheel. Thas as far as the flywheel will go on. Doesnt seem to be on far at all. Please tell me im insane and have let my trike sit for another year out of incompetence. Id rather feel like an idiot than have something wrong with my crank shaft. Nothing but trouble since the 1st Ricky set up blew. I cant find my oem flywheel so I can look at both to determine what the deal is.
fabiodriven
11-12-2010, 02:29 PM
Looks to be too far out to me.
hang&rattle
11-12-2010, 02:56 PM
^Yes. Mine also sat deeper in, I know on mine I had to patiently wiggle till' it seated in there right (and I tapped gently with a rubber mallot, but don't say nothin' or they'll make fun of me). Also the little key was tricky and kept hanging up on me. I think your close, I'm an idiot and I did it, so you'll accomplish it fine.
cr480r
11-12-2010, 03:04 PM
use valve lapping compound to seat the parts together.. it looks like it should go on further, but its not supposed to go on all the way.. Are the photos shown taken after the bolt was torqued?
Meat-BoX
11-12-2010, 03:51 PM
Those pics are without the key in the shaft and no stator installed. When I 1st recieved it we installed it and it just didnt want to go on much further than that. Broke the bolt off in the shaft and all that. I believe thats as far as it will go just about. Im sure it will go a little more when torquing the bolt down proper. Maybe im just wrong and thats the proper distance it goes on. I guess im just worried because of what happened to the stator and flywheel when it wadded up at 72 mph. I will order the correct bolt and washer and have it installed and see what happens. Hopefully its all in my head and I can be ripping it up next weekend.
One other thing. When the 1st one wadded up the dealer couldnt get the flywheel off and they told me they may break the motor trying. I guess they were pounding away on the puller and all of that. If they messed anything up would it leak oil from the seal in the case? I know it was abused pretty bad to get that flywheel off. Is there anything I can do to the shaft to make it slide on easier. Wire wheel it or something. Heres a pic of the shaft
nd4speed
11-12-2010, 08:16 PM
using lapping compound and spin the flywheel on the shaft to mate the surfaces better.
I dont remember it sitting too deep and the bolt seemed like it was barely on there.
I 've done a KX electrical swap like six times now and they all seemed like that. I never lapped anything either.
Dirtcrasher
11-12-2010, 09:52 PM
I'm not a Tecate wealth of knowledge, but it should go on just about all the way and the bolt just socks it down. It won't pull it in a 1/4" I don't believe.
At least thats most flywheels I've seen with by other manufacturers.
If it's the right flywheel, look for burrs on the shaft, especially at the key cut. I usually run the woodruff key's side on a sharp file to clean up any high spots. I may file and or lightly emery cloth the crank end too.
They are nearly never very close to the shafts end/threads (like you said 1/2") so I wouldn't let that bother me.
It shouldn't have to be pulled way into place unless Tecates are made that way.
If it doesn't hit the back of the cover, hopefully your good :D
tecat-z
11-13-2010, 12:05 AM
Measure the bolt depth with fly loosely pushed on, but seated. KX and kxt bolts are different, but that really doesn't matter here. Those bolts are old, and fatigue after repeated use, and i've seen them break off in the crank more than once. Use only new oem or equivalent. Too short a bolt can cause the threads to pull out of crank. Both scenerios are equally bad. Also, be sure to take in to account washer thickness when determining correct bolt length. Yes, ALWAYS lap fly to crank regardless of machine.
nd4speed
11-13-2010, 10:24 PM
Measure the bolt depth with fly loosely pushed on, but seated. KX and kxt bolts are different, but that really doesn't matter here. Those bolts are old, and fatigue after repeated use, and i've seen them break off in the crank more than once. Use only new oem or equivalent. Too short a bolt can cause the threads to pull out of crank. Both scenerios are equally bad. Also, be sure to take in to account washer thickness when determining correct bolt length. Yes, ALWAYS lap fly to crank regardless of machine.
Exactly..........................
Meat-BoX
11-15-2010, 08:29 PM
Thx guys for the help. I will make sure to get the lapping compound and give it my best. When my friend and I did the 1st install at his garage we didnt get any spark from her. Hope it didnt fry something else. Shes in the front porch now so at least its dry and I can just get around it to work on. I hope she fires up though.
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