Tri Z pipe that runs to bottom of RHS of cylinder ???

[Richieyzf]

Just bought a 86 Tri z and the pipe tha runs to the right hand side bottom of the cylinder has come out and will not go back in with out coming out? Is the elbow (right angled piece that goes into cylinder) supposed to have some sort of spring loaded circlip on it?? If so are these parts available? If not I've thought of maybe tapping a thread in and using a sort of banjo & bolt type arrangement (as on a brake pipe?)??

Please advise if this problem has happened to you or if you have experience with the problem?

Thanks

Rich

[Richieyzf]

Surely someone has had this fault before?

I think I was wrong about the circlip thing above as when I looked earlier it appeared that there wasn't anything on the elbow?

[luke]

The elbow stays (should stay) in the cylinder, might be worth using super glue to hold it in, don't get glue inside. The pipe from it provides air to the fuel pump for the sucking action, this pipe is held on with the little circlip. The elbow needs to be secure and air tight.

[Richieyzf]

Thanks for the reply I'll try and glue it back in, didn't really fancy tapping the cylinder just in case it went wrong?

[Mosh]

Is the jug off the trike?

This is a common problem. You could try tapping the hole for a fitting, but be careful. The z jugs are brittle and it could crack.

Generally, I put the fitting in a vice and use a center punch to re flare the end of the fitting that goes in the jug. Be careful not to flare it too much.
Then I coat them with JB Kwik Weld were it goes into the jug, and tap them back in with a hammer and brass punch and let them set for 24 hours.

[swampthang]

I tried the jb weld thing and it didnt last long so i used super glue and its held up so far. Scary as hell when they pop off and lean out, mine ran wide open.

[Just-Tri-It]

I tried the jb weld thing and it didnt last long so i used super glue and its held up so far. Scary as hell when they pop off and lean out, mine ran wide open.

LOL.. Don't forget the off switch if it happens again.

[Bryan Raffa]

my phase two cylinder elbow popped out after I re-flared it..scarry is putting it mildly!... from now on,, if I can spin it with a pair of pliers.. I will have the hole welded closed and put one in the intake..

someone should step up to the plate and make a stainless one ,, that you can tap/thred the hole out.. and thred a new one on! you cannot find a fitting like that! Ive looked!

[swampthang]

LOL.. Don't forget the off switch if it happens again. Kill switches do no good at that high of rpm,just start up shifting and dump the clutch to kill it. Idk what you would do if it pops off in 5th?:(

[ceaserthethird]

Good tips, let us know if it works for u

[tecat-z]

New oem elbows are still availiable. I've bought many, and gave Ronnie 2 at TF this past year. He wasn't aware either, and was very happy. The replacements are actually slightly bigger on taper and allow a tighter fit that original. This helps tighten up old oversize hole in cylinder better caused by spinning, messing with, and removal replacement of elbow over the years. But the best thing, and what i did on my last Tri-z build was thread the taper end to common 6x100mm, and plug weld the oem hole in cylinder. Now threads can be cut into cylinder in original location, and the installation of thread in elbow that looks 100% oem. Removal no longer harms the connection like friction fit. It can't rotate due to the hose still being connected, so i run them finger tight with a small dab of pipe dope. the part#

353-13115-01-00
availiable oem through any Yamaha dealer.
Simple, cheap, and fail safe. SAY IT!!!!!!!