Im finally ready to machine you new parts.

[SWIGIN]

I hope this is OK to post here but I am now set up enough to machine new parts and thread them on my lathe. So anything like front axles to swing arm bolts are now fair game.

I just turned these 1.50x14mm on my lathe 30 minuets ago.
http://i53.tinypic.com/30kd0mv.jpg

Just send me a PM if you are in need of anything that can be made on a lathe and I will see what I can do.

Thanks

[Eric250R]

Awesome....will keep you in mind!

[texas 185s]

posting to subscribe. so can you make rear axles too? jw

[SWIGIN]

I can't cut splines so no, I can't make rear axles.

[samdaholic]

what type of matrial are you using?i think some stainless steal for the pivot points would be a killer way to go.

[texas 185s]

I can't cut splines so no, I can't make rear axles.

okay, i figured that was a problem

[bkm]

Can you make 85/86 250r swingarm pivot bolts? And if so how much?

[TatTooL23]

man thats really cool. im sure u will get some people needing some stuff. i think i might be able to come up with a few things. we will c.

[SWIGIN]

Just to keep this simple, I can make any swing arm bolt or front axle, I'll just need one to get measurements off of.

Since I don't have one from every bike ever made I'll need a decent one to look at. So I guess you will have to send me one then I can make more.

The prices would depend on what type of steel you want your parts made from. Here again I don't have every type of steel in stock so ordering some in would take some time. I know alot of guys like stainless but I'm thinking of using tool steel. I have made both front axles and swing arm bolts out of 01 tool steel with great results.

For an average swing arm bolt or simple front axle I'd guess that would be $40. I know some front axles are more involved with a step on one end like a 1st gen 200x, this will take more time but till the end of the month I'll make swing arm bolts and simple front axles for $35 and axles with a step for $40. Stainless will be more but since I haven't priced it yet I have no idea how much more. But I'm leaning towards tool steel and chromoly.

I am new to offering up my services so please bear with me.

[SWIGIN]

Can you make 85/86 250r swingarm pivot bolts? And if so how much?

I believe that bolt is the same as my TRX bolt so this is one of the few I have and won't need one sent to me to look at. Prices are posted above, but I forgot to say that the prices are without shipping.

Thanks

[SWIGIN]

OK, I'm going with tool steel and chromoly. I'm getting some in and I will make a TRX 250R swing arm bolt which is the same as 85-86 ATC 250R. This way I'll have one to show pics of the finished product and if no one buys one I can still use it.

I have made many front axles and swing arm bolts in the past out of tool steel and they have been AMA MX race proven not to break. Back in the late 80s I was bending and breaking stock 85 200x front axles and once I made a small run out of tool steel I never had one break or bend.

Stainless is pretty but it is brittle, as long as you grease every thing real well when you put it together your parts should not rust together so stainless is not needed in my mind. That being said, if someone would like something made out of stainless I'll do it if you supply the metal. I have no desire to stock up on stainless at this time.

After putting more thought into this, I will be offering 2 different styles of swing arm bolts. One style will be just like the picture above (without the extra material on the end) on each end, just like a simple front axle with a nut on each end. This style will be the cheaper of the two and I will supply 1 new nut with each bolt since your factory nut will fit the other end. The second style swing arm bolt will be just like a factory bolt with a bolt head machined into one end but these will be twice the cost since I don't have a mill and can't do the bolt head machining in house.

The last swing arm bolt my lathe made is on a $20,000 hybrid quad. He was breaking factory swinger bolts every few rides, this should tell you the level of rideing and abuse this thing sees. After he broke a handfull of them he ordered the tool steel and he went with the simple bolt with 2 nuts. This was over a year ago and he has had no problems with it since.

I just wanted to let you guys know that these bolts have been tested on some of the top race quads being made today.

[TheRealFatShady]

Have any spare square tubing for a 250x/300ex frame extension?

[SWIGIN]

Yes but it's not worth shipping, I think it runs about $1 a foot.

[Dirtcrasher]

Not all stainless is brittle, not all stainless is non-magnetic. Some machine easy, some weld easy and some suk. Ronnie made all his bolts out of stainless; The types and there properties can be found online.

Tool steel meaning 01 A1 W1 etc?? oil hardening, air hardening, water hardening? It's allot better than cold rolled steel but it's meant to be treated for full strength.

Thats what I learned from a 30 year toolmaker, if it's treated incorrectly, it breaks. If it's treated right it's extremely strong...............

I do think your bolt looks fantastic :D

[SWIGIN]

In the past I used O1 tool steel and used it as is. This has proved to be plenty strong with out heat treating. In fact I'd be a little concerned about heat treating a swinger bolt or front axle and have it snap.

I looked into stainless but since I'm not familiar with it I really don't know what rating to get....so I'll pass and sick to what I know works for now.

If anyone knows exactly what stainless he used I would be willing to try it.

[aldochina]

very cool swigin!! i have loosely followed your lathe resto thread(good stuff)!! Glad to see your gonna get right down to putting that beast to good use. If i need anything, i will hit you up.

[Dirtcrasher]

Typical Applications

303 is used almost exclusively for parts requiring machining, grinding, or polishing where good corrosion resistance is also required. It’s non-seizing and non-galling properties make it ideal for moving parts. Being an austenitic steel, it is useful where low magnetic permeability is desired. 303 has fairly good forming properties. Used for aircraft parts, as well as shafts, gears, valves, valve trims, all types of screw machine products, bolts, screws, and machine parts, as well as architectural purposes. It is not recommended for vessels containing liquids or gases under high pressure.

[SWIGIN]

Thanks for that DC!

Funny thing is thats what I thought I'd use if I go that way...lol

thanks for making up my mind for me.

[SWIGIN]

OK guys, I just ordered a bag of nuts and some tool steel, don't leave me hanging...lol

[zzmegad]

17-4 PH SS is strong with great corrosion resistance. Of coarse its expensive and not as easy on tooling...

[Dirtcrasher]

Thanks for that DC!

Funny thing is thats what I thought I'd use if I go that way...lol

thanks for making up my mind for me.

Your welcome, your always correcting or adding to things I post............

I just know that when you say "Stainless Steel", guys like that!; Who doesn't want a shiney stainless bolt??

It's strong,tough and takes quite some time to turn down lathe-wise, then "THREAD IT!!"

[muthey]

If I was to use any stainless on a trike part I would use 416, just for the simple fact it wears out less and is easier to machine, than 304 or 316 which is gummier, granted it is easier to corrode, but when it comes down to tensile strength vs. corrosion I would choose tensile strength any day, I agree with your choice on avoiding stainless. for the price of stainless I would rather have something that I know my fat butt can hit that jump and not break the bolt when landing or bend it, I machine 316 and 416 all the time, and in my opinion 416 is a way better material for shaft work, also comes out with a better finish when completed. One thing to remember with stainless is to rough it in with coolant, and let it get cold again before finishing it off, the heat expansion can get over .016 in the end which will scrap a part in the end other than 304 I have not had the luxury of dealing with any of the other stainless out there, but I can tell you this of you are able to bend or break tool steel or chromally you shouldn't be on that trike as it is being rode way too hard

[oscarmayer]

how much for 200x bolt? I'll work a deal out with you. I have a NEW in the plastic oem honda 1st gen 200x swingarm bolt. if you make me a tool steel one i'll let you use it for reference. reemmeber this is new in the bag. not rusted.

[SWIGIN]

Man, I keep forgetting about all the weird swing arm bolts. I can make one but I did not order any steel near large enough for the big end. Could you get me a quick diameter of the big end and I'll order some in. I will definetly need yours to look at, I havn't owned a 200x since around 1990.

Like I said earlier, till the end of the month, simple swinger bolts and front axles will be $35. More complex or stepped bolts/axles are $40.

[oscarmayer]

if you want, we can do a 2-for 1 trade. you can HAVE my new bolt in exchange for 2 machined ones. :D deal?
yea let me get you the demsions.

[SWIGIN]

No thanks, I know where I can get my hands on a 200x bolt to measure.

[MagicJames]

I've got one for you, I want to get a longer swinger bolt for my 350x because of the gusset kit. Not sure how much longer... Maybe DC can chime in and tell me how much longer.

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Just add the thickness of the washers. There usually about .060 or a total of .125 (1/8th) of an inch longer.

I try to put thick washers on there. Do you have Bills kit? Just measure them up............

[MagicJames]

Yes i do, It's been sitting in my garage for ... ... ... 7 months or so, I'm trying to get my brother in law to weld them on for me so i can get rolling on my 350x project.

That's a good idea, maybe a solid 3/16 would be safe, as i'm gonna try to beef up this frame so i don't break as much stuff as i did last year

[Dirtcrasher]

Stock bolt may work. You'll just have to see how far it threads on and if it catches the "self locking nut portion" or Loctite it in if the whole nut threads on.........

You could stake the nut too if it fits.

[Xowner]

i dont need one but 83-84 250r bolts you might look into.

[SWIGIN]

When I got home from work tonight my swing arm nuts and steel was on my porch. So I took a quick measurement on my TRX 250r and made what I'm calling a simple swing arm bolt. I just threw a standard ATC front bearing on it for looks, but this is basicly what my simple front axles look like too.

http://i53.tinypic.com/b9ekva.jpg

[SWIGIN]

I've got one for you, I want to get a longer swinger bolt for my 350x because of the gusset kit. Not sure how much longer... Maybe DC can chime in and tell me how much longer.

If you find out that you do need one, makeing one a little longer would be no problem at all. But I'm with DC, I kinda doubt you'll need a longer bolt if you only added an 1/8''.

[zzmegad]

ooooh, that looks very nice and shiny, what kind of material is that one? it comes on size right and you just do the ends?

[SWIGIN]

I bought tool steel since it is what I have used in the past and I know it will last. I would like to get some chromeoly and see how that works but right now I never used it before so it's an unknown....but it should work as well.

I bought 15mm tool steel but of course it measured big so I did have to take .004 off the whole thing.

[bcredneck]

I can't cut splines so no, I can't make rear axles.

if you made hubs and a disk mount that use pins insead of splines you could

[jsmay]

nice stuff! i have an old Atlas lathe and a Bridgeport out in my shop... priceless stuff! Your work looks great!
-jason

[SWIGIN]

if you made hubs and a disk mount that use pins insead of splines you could

X-33 axles are made with wheel hubs that pin on, they start to wobble in no time. Splines are the way to go for that sort of thing since I doubt to many guys want a loose wobbly disc hub.

[SWIGIN]

nice stuff! i have an old Atlas lathe and a Bridgeport out in my shop... priceless stuff! Your work looks great!
-jason

Thanks!

I would kill for any decent mill, your lucky to have one of the best.

[SWIGIN]

I just set up a paypal account since that seems to be the way most people do things nowadays.

[SWIGIN]

Tonight I made one of two ATC 70 front axles.

http://i52.tinypic.com/2uh7bqe.jpg

http://i54.tinypic.com/2ms4mtv.jpg

I just wanted to bump this thread and show another LR product...lol

[Chazz of Blades]

Ever thought about starting to sell on Ebay? I'm sure with competitive pricing you could sell a good bit. I'd rather buy a new made axle, than an original off a parts bike anyway. Just get a level or something, and show in pics the length of them, and that they are straight, and your good to go! Good luck, and sweet work!

[SWIGIN]

I thought about that but I don't want to be stuck with odd parts I can't use. I am hoping to just make parts when they are ordered/asked for. That way I don't have unwanted parts laying around.

That being said, just shoot me a PM if you want something and I'll make it.

[Chazz of Blades]

Yeah, make me up an intake boot for a 200es, and while your at it whip up some forks too. :)

[SWIGIN]

Just so you know I have made intakes before. Mine are all aluminum but they are not cheap.

[Chazz of Blades]

Define "not cheap"?

[SWIGIN]

Well, the 350x aluminum intake I made, I,d charge $125.

[Chazz of Blades]

Yeah, bit outta my range.