Oil mixtures, what do you run?

[RubberSalt]

Basicaly, I'd like to make a chart based on everyones oil/bike/driving type.

Bike-oil mix-brand-driving habits.

1983 YT175, 32:1, Yamalube 2r, dune driving- high rpm.

[HuffieVA]

40:1 Blendzall and Hi Test in pretty much everything
32:1 with Yamalube 2r if for some reason I'm out of Blendzall

[Taiser]

I keep it safe, about 30 to 1...I don't run my strokers as hard as they should be though! :D

[BGP]

250R, YZ250, Weedwhacker, Chainsaw : Klotz or Motul 800 @ 32~34:1 , warm it up properly and give it hell.

Can't get Blendzall out here... 40 shipping plus brokerage plus taxes just to get it here from your side.

[dougspcs]

Oh no, another oil thread..everyone duck. Fabio will be lobbing in a grenade any time!!

[code200k]

my 2 strokes ( only bikes i got) are ran on 32:1 yamalube 2r.usally try and run atleast 91 octane..I do trail/mx riding

[falloutboy]

Bike - oil mix-brand - driving habits

85 (if that part matters) 250r- 32:1 - Lucas- dunes, generally WFO, some sand trails.

[bobotech]

I use 40-1 in my YT175 but haven't done much other than testing on it. Have yet to really take it out and try it. I am kind of thinking that the oil injection is working but I can't confirm it so thats why I do the fairly low gas/oil mix rather than a more conservative 32-1 or something.

I'm actually thinking about doing a 2 gallon jug full of 50-1 for my new to me 75 Suzuki GT550 that I recently got running and has working oil injection but one of the lines isn't working and my 175 since I think its working but they both are smoking pretty good.

[WIkid500]

50:1 premix Amsoil Interceptor in my Yamaha QT-60 Moped.

[k00leo]

31:1
Amsoil Interceptor
1985 atc 250r

[zzmegad]

I use one of those ratio right pitchers and fill it to mix at 40:1, but it all doesn't make it into the fuel, so im guessing I'm around 45:1 or so... Sometimes I mix it thicker if I feel like a little more smoke, I like smoke:D

[Chazz of Blades]

32:1 Klotz, or Yamalube.

[WIkid500]

I use one of those ratio right pitchers and fill it to mix at 40:1, but it all doesn't make it into the fuel, so im guessing I'm around 45:1 or so... Sometimes I mix it thicker if I feel like a little more smoke, I like smoke:D



I use the same cup. I dump the oil out of the ratio rite cup then splash some gas in the cup to pick up the remaining oil, dump it in the can and continue to fill the gas can. No guessing.

[mohadib]

31:1
Amsoil Interceptor
1985 atc 250r

why not the dominiator? Interceptor is formulated for power valves, dont think it would hurt anything, but curios why you choose it.

[brd812]

40:1 golden spectro or maxmia syn

[jr66645]

I was beginning to think I was the only one runnin Amsoil dominator at 40:1. I guess I was right. lol

[Red Rider]

Redline synthetic on my '86 250R @ 80:1. I do mostly dunes & hillshooting type riding.

[WIkid500]

why not the dominiator? Interceptor is formulated for power valves, dont think it would hurt anything, but curios why you choose it.


I run the Interceptor because I have a lot of it for the snowmobiles. Amsoil says it is fine for premix, so since I have it I use it. The only down fall I see is the Interceptor doesn't have a dye in it to let you know the gas is mixed. Dedicated and labeled mixed gas, gas cans solves this problem.

[falloutboy]

Redline synthetic on my '86 250R @ 80:1...

:eek::eek::eek:

that seems really lean

[TatTooL23]

With a good synthetic, 80:1 is fine. Everyone is so scarred here. I run 50:1 with AMS Oil as it states to. That's in a 100% stock '82 250R, a very built '85 FL350 odyssey, and now a semi built LT500 Quadzilla. So that's in really a wide variety.

Its amazing how many people running 32:1. This is 2011 and we have oil that is up to par. I mean I understand the better safe then sorry thing too. It just seems odd that lots of users here r always asking what gives power and what mods to do and how to go faster and how to make the motor run great and then they run 32:1, LOL.

Do they go piss into the wind too??

[BGP]

How many dried up shot to crap cranks have you replaced on engines that were running "new generation" oil on lean ratios? I don't care if you're running straight Castor Bean pressed in your own basement or Ester based full synth from last week's batch... cage bearings need oil when they're spinning that fast.

As someone else said before: more work for me so I can buy good fuel and run good oil at 34:1. Then again, that leaves me less time to piss in the wind I guess.

[TatTooL23]

the point is that newer synthetic oils that r any good r FAR higher quality. the viscosity is much better. they do not burn off as easy and they do not "rinse out" when rolled around bearing with fuel mixture. they hold to the bearing and stay there so they r not actually being oiled every single pump of fuel through the bottom end because there is already residual oil there, this is y not as much is needed in the fuel because far less of it is doing the same or better job.

these facts of new synthetic oils in not an opinion or a preference or whatever. it is a fact of how it lubes tight tolerances and bearings and does not "rinse" away.

and again i totally understand the better safe then sorry. i am just saying y new oil can be run at those mixtures with no issues.

[Red Rider]

that seems really leanIt never fails. Whenever I tell someone what mixture ratio I use, I always get the same reaction. I was a little hesitant, to say the least, to run it that lean when I first switched to synthetic back in 1988. When I first started using synthetic premix, I was using HPS mixed at 100:1, but they went out of business, so I started using Redline. I used to mix the Redline at 100:1 as well, with no issues. I richened it up to 80:1 after reading several informative articles on premix, oil ratios, & air/fuel ratios.


How many dried up shot to crap cranks have you replaced on engines that were running "new generation" oil on lean ratios? I don't care if you're running straight Castor Bean pressed in your own basement or Ester based full synth from last week's batch... cage bearings need oil when they're spinning that fast.Since switching to synthetic, I've never had any issues that can be attributed to running it so lean, and I never foul a plug, nor do I smoke out the countryside. As for destroyed cranks, I finally replaced the original crank with a Hotrod crank in 2008, not because the OEM one let go, but because I figured it was due for a new one (to be safe rather than sorry).

[fabiodriven]

Oh no, another oil thread..everyone duck. Fabio will be lobbing in a grenade any time!!

I was trying to bite my tongue this time but I can't hold it anymore. Seriously Rubber, was there really a need for yet another oil thread? This is getting re-goddam-diculous.

[RubberSalt]

yup, because I'm to lazy to see who is running lucas, so far 1 other guy is - so much cheaper than 2r around here lol

Someone oughtta just sticky 1 of the good oil threads lol

[RubberSalt]

yup, because I'm to lazy to see who is running lucas, so far 1 other guy is - so much cheaper than 2r around here lol

Someone oughtta just sticky 1 of the good oil threads lol

[TatTooL23]

It never fails. Whenever I tell someone what mixture ratio I use, I always get the same reaction. I was a little hesitant, to say the least, to run it that lean when I first switched to synthetic back in 1988. When I first started using synthetic premix, I was using HPS mixed at 100:1, but they went out of business, so I started using Redline. I used to mix the Redline at 100:1 as well, with no issues. I richened it up to 80:1 after reading several informative articles on premix, oil ratios, & air/fuel ratios.

Since switching to synthetic, I've never had any issues that can be attributed to running it so lean, and I never foul a plug, nor do I smoke out the countryside. As for destroyed cranks, I finally replaced the original crank with a Hotrod crank in 2008, not because the OEM one let go, but because I figured it was due for a new one (to be safe rather than sorry).

Thank you. Finally.....

[mohadib]

Thank you. Finally.....

lol, better break out the hug box for tattoo :D

[Red Rider]

Thank you. Finally.....Oh, you're :welcome:

[cr480r]

Its amazing how many people running 32:1. This is 2011 and we have oil that is up to par. I mean I understand the better safe then sorry thing too. It just seems odd that lots of users here r always asking what gives power and what mods to do and how to go faster and how to make the motor run great and then they run 32:1, LOL.

Do they go piss into the wind too??

do you think less oil adds power? LOL

[TatTooL23]

If u don't know what I mean then u shouldn't be replying.

I would hope u truly do know and u r just doing for sake of an argument. But hey who am I to expect u to know what a fuel oil mixture does when u ignite it.

Try this, take a measured amount of gas and ignite it.
Then take that same measured amount, but half fuel and half oil and ignite it.

Then come back here and tell me which one makes a bigger boom/flame.

I understand this is not a mixture u run (2:1) but it proves that a more gasoline mixture will have more combustion. Thought this was common knowledge. Guess not for some....

Also ask a drag racer or any racer of a two stroke if they run 32:1 when trying to squeeze every last drop of power.

[Red Rider]

do you think less oil adds power? LOLIn addition to what Tattool just said, even if less oil didn't add more power, why should I run it richer if my bike is doing just fine on the leaner ratio?

[cr480r]

Also ask a drag racer or any racer of a two stroke if they run 32:1 when trying to squeeze every last drop of power.

perhaps you should ask around as well


In addition to what Tattool just said, even if less oil didn't add more power, why should I run it richer if my bike is doing just fine on the leaner ratio?

you should do whatever you want

[NOSBIGSHOT]

VP U 4.4 with Golden Spectro 32:1

[Mr_RPM]

I run bacon grease in my 4-strokes, i figured it would help lube things up and it smells great. =P

[TatTooL23]

^^^^ lol. That's awesome.

[hoosierlogger]

I run bacon grease in my 4-strokes, i figured it would help lube things up and it smells great. =P

What kind of bacon grease? how long do you go between changes? and is it safe for wet clutches?

[250rRoostmaster]

You know the kind from pigs, be careful though it'll run a little on the fat side!!!

[Red Rider]

you should do whatever you wantI usually do, but I so want everyone's approval on here to validate my decisions in life.

[Mr_RPM]

What kind of bacon grease? how long do you go between changes? and is it safe for wet clutches?

i mix it in with the gas at 69:1
only if your getting gas in your oil will it mess with the clutch.
I only get my grease from OscarMyer farms.
I once tried wild boar brand since so much of it was coming in from the south for CHEAP. but it fried my piston, tasted great.

[hoosierlogger]

You know the kind from pigs, be careful though it'll run a little on the fat side!!!

What about the synthetic stuff from turkey bacon and soy bacon, is it any good?

[250rRoostmaster]

I tend to stay away from the syn stuff, it seems to foul plugs much quicker. I tried it once but my trike got really pissed and bucked me off:D

[TatTooL23]

Ok. On a serious note. Here is a response just for "cr480r" :

Typical gasoline is a mixture of hydrocarbons between C4-C12. Typical oil is a mixture of hydrocarbons between C18-C24. As the number of carbons (C) increases the flammability decreases. This is a normal rule of organic chemistry (which applies totrailpro fuels). When you mix oil with gas you are increasing the overall concentration of C18-C24 hydrocarbons. This increased concentration decreases the efficiency of the fuel. A fuel oil mixture of 32:1 has a higher oil concentration then a fuel oil mixture of 50:1 or 80:1. So this is really a very simple situation. Less oil will lead to higher HP. However, this doesn't change the fact that you need oil for lubrication but thats a different lesson for a different day.trailpro

So to answer the response u had questioning if less Oil means more horsepower (with an lol on the end)

Touché.......

[zzmegad]

Tatool23, while that does seem like a well said scientific explanation, I don't think your right. I have never tested this stuff myself but I have read about it in a few differant places. Heres what another guy thinks...

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/pre-mix-ratios-myth-facts-read-14935/

[TatTooL23]

What seems like good info from that other post is just what that guy thinks or has found on his one application. U can do a leak down test from the top end to the bottom end. This is a common test to check how seals and gaskets r. When new/properly built and taken care of u can get the same result with a leak down test on an engine not even running. The rings do their job whether its a 4-stroke or 2-stroke whether oil is present at the rings or not. then obviously when it is running everything is hot and expands and seals off the way it is intended. U can compression test a 4 stroke with ZERO oil in it and it will be great. Of course u will damage the internals but I'm pointing that out for the sake of this. This proves that the oil is not the huge determining factor of compression or blow by on the rings.

The info I posted was not made up by me. It was a piece taken from a study of a professor and what was found when types of fuel and oil we broken down chemically to see the actual make-up of them and what exactly causes the combustion. Oil dilutes the fuel which raises the hydrocarbon mixture causing it to not burn as efficiently or create as big of a combustion.

He is correct about the residual oil that builds up. Which I already stated earlier in the thread. I also stated how the newer synthetic oils stick to the surfaces and bearings better and do not "rinse" away. This is y less oil is needed.

Now again. I am not saying u must run 50:1 or whatever ratio. I don't care what u run. I am just stating, with facts, y u can run mixtures like that with the newer oils. And also explaining y less oil in fuel will create more power due to a cleaner and more complete burn. A fuel that is less "viscous" can atomize more evenly and better with the oxygen also causing a bigger detonation. Again think of this at the extremes to see it clearly. It is very hard to spread oil evenly and mix it with air/oxygen. But fuel has a shorter chain of hydrocarbons because of the less oil so it can be dispersed and mix well.

This all goes back to reeds and how they splash the fuel mixture to start it mixing with air more evenly. Or how a carb precisely squirts fuel into the air coming in.

I hope this stuff helps. Overall this is a great read with a lot if interesting info. I'll continue to run 50:1 with ams oil.

[bkm]

People need to learn the basic function of a two stroke engine and how the demand placed on the engine also dictates what type of power and lubricating abilities that the mixture will produce.

A two stroke engine is lubed by the oil once it falls out the mixture while the gas is suspended in the air. It falls into the crankcase and then is distributed throughout the engine by the crank spinning. More oil helps to seal rings and lower friction thus creating more power. Friction robs power its a fact. The harder the engine is run the more residual oil in the crank case is used thus creating a higher demand for more oil and a higher mixture of oil. The easier the engine is run the less oil is used in the crankcase and a lower mixture can be run.

The more oil that is placed into the engine has to be compensated by increasing the jetting. Here is the answer to the million dollar question, if the jetting is spot on you will not foul plugs with a richer mixture of oil in the gas, it will not smoke like a freight train, and it will make more power because the proper cylinder temperature is burning off the oil that might make it into the combustion chamber or in the pipe, and the extra oil is decreasing friction thus lowering temperatures.

Shifter carts are an example of what mixture makes the most power. Some of those guys run those things at 15:1 and lost power with anything leaner. But those engines run at max speed constantly and use the extra oil being introduced into the engine.

I have personally seen dyno results from my ported 250r and due to the lack of available jets I could go no richer then about 26:1 but it made its most power at that ratio, The leaner the mixture the less power it made.

These are just my opinions and my observations messing with two stokes for about half my life. And everyone knows what opinions and asses have in common. Everyone has one.

[TatTooL23]

good stuff to know. agreed about the oil falling from the fuel in air and lubing things, BUT it doesnt all fall away which is obviously y u can smell the different exhaust and see the slight smoke. i believe everything u stated. but what i am saying is, most of the newer high quality synthetic oils r achieving that same amount of lubrication and oil layer on the components with less oil. it is a better oil that doesnt just rinse away with very high RPM's. so u r getting the same protection, sealing, and lubrication with less of it.

[bkm]

Oh your gonna get the slight smoke and definitely get the smell. Its the nature of the beast anytime an oil is introduced into the combustion chamber. I have had guys that don't know any better tell me that I'm gonna burn up my engine because its not smoking, therefore it must not be getting enough oil. I have never burnt a piston or hurt a crank doing it the way I do it. It works for me and I stick with 32:1 maxim 927. When I strictly dragged my 250r I mixed it at about 26:1 and jetted it properly and never fouled one single plug.

[TatTooL23]

wow. i was gonna ask what u run. i guess the jetting is the key with a lot of it. but couldnt u also tune it and jet it properly at any mixture?? so at say 50:1 u could jet it to run perfectly with that as long as there is enough lubrication for safe running conditions.

[BGP]

Just to add to what BKM was saying about the "oil level" in the base that gets distributed by the crankshaft, that is why I always pour a certain amount of oil in the base on fresh builds that had their cases cleaned...

Lastly, as much as oils have evolved over the years, and the fact that we are in 2011, it remains that machining and metallurgy has also evolved. Now, my 250R is 26 years old, complete with it's 26 year old machining and metallurgy... well, at least the cylinder sleeve is. Anyway, you get my point; as good as the oil is, what are the characteristics of that which you are trying to lubricate?

Edit: Something else to consider regarding the longer carbon chains; on higher compression engines, this would raise the anti-knock property (stability) of the fuel being run, yes? Some guys add ATF to their tank on turbo applications as well as Toluene and/or Xylene for AK and lube to seals and lines.