Ytm 200e problems running

[dear140]

This machine hasnt ran in probably about five years. I rebuilt the carb, and the piston rings were seized, i had to get 40 over, since 20 over wasnt enough with the circle that my rings left in the wall. so yesterday i installed piston rings and a new wiseco .40 over piston after having the cylinder bored for it. i started it 3rd pull idles beautifully, then when i start riding it, first off it pops into 1st gear hard, like jerks forward. shifts well, but their are dead spots in the throttle, and if im on a short ride and shift from 3rd to 2nd to 1st itll just quit on me sometimes... any thoughts? do i need to rejet since i got a 40 over piston? any replies appreciated.

[muthey]

carb needs to be cleaned or look in the intake tube for a nest or something, have you cleaned the air filter, also your float height may be wrong

[dear140]

theres nothing in the intake tube air filter is brand new, idk about float height or how to set it. im only 16 idk bout that stuff. i did just set the timing chain and cam chain adjuster after replacing the piston though if that helps.

[MonroeMike]

Float height info can be found here.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?125954-YTM200-YTM200e-YTM225-Service-Data

[dear140]

alright i went out and tried to start it, and it wouldnt start, i found out that somehow i am missing a bolt that goes on my decompression lever cover, and that my plug is extremely carbon fouled.

[muthey]

ok I am assuming that you used a new plug after you put it back together, did you by chance check the head to make sure the valves were seating when you had it all apart? Otherwise it would have to be smoking to carbon up the plug, either oil or fuel or both also did you correctly offset the rings when you put it back together, and how snug of a fit was the piston to get back in?

[dear140]

the piston was a pretty firm fit, the rings are set just as they should be. the valves should be just fine. it smokes a tiny bit of black smoke. it's not burning oil, but it may be getting too much fuel through the carb? idk. im gonna clean the carb tonight, and grab a new plug tomorrow then report back.

[dear140]

alright. now i cleaned the carb thoroughly, and bought a new spark plug. it started and i just ran it around the yard a couple times then parked it and it idled out. i checked the spark plug, and it's ridiculously carboned up. whats this mean? too rich?

[muthey]

check on the front of the carb to intake mount on the drivers side there should be a stamped number there in the manual on here it will tell you if that is the right carb it will make a difference, as some of them are jetted differently. Also what kind of fuel are you running how about the oil, just some thoughts, as regular motor oil is not recommended for them but the little bit of black smoke is definitely a rich running effect, so check carb for sure.

[dear140]

I'm running regular unleaded, and NAPA SAE 30 WT oil. I am using a carb from a different model YTM, it's not the flange mount intake it is a friction fit, like a rubber tube that the carburetor runs into.

[dear140]

so i went out and messed with it. first off, the decompression lever keeps coming out. is there a keeper on this or is it just the spring? also it wouldn't start by just pulling it, but when i put gas in the cylinder and pulled it it would start third pull, and keep on running as long as i was reving it as soon as i took my thumb off the throttle it shut right off.

[muthey]

that's why you are running the wrong carb, it is obviously too rich and possibly not the right amount of air flow either. You should have told us you were running a completely different carb you will have to make sure you are running the proper jets which means you'll need to do some plug chops, also try and make sure that it has as much flow if not greater than the original, or it just won't run right.

[El Camexican]

I've run both kinds of carbs on my 200k and the jetting is not different enough to cause this condition. A larger bore won't do it either. These changes require fine tuning to be perfect, but you have something wrong. Are you sure you set the cam chain and gears correctly? They are a trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro to line up. I bent my first valve ever on that engine some 29 years ago... Did you hear a metalic click at anypoint, or feel a tight spot the first time you rotated the engine that was gone the second time? If either happened you likley bent a valve and will need to confirm that with a compression test. If not, get that decompression thing fixed first, them make sure you put that carb together correctly. If you need help understanding the float set up it will have to wait until I have a spare hour. The clutch is adjustable with that nut and screw on the right side of the engine, but even when set correctly they go into 1st hard. Worst thing you can do is pussy foot it in. Better to just bang it up and get it over with (once you get it running right you can lower the idle and that will help a bit). Keep up posted.

[muthey]

next we have to figure out why your decompression lever is coming out. there is a screw on the valve cover that should keep it in place if it is there and still coming out either the screw is too short or that valve cover or decompression lever is shot.

[dear140]

theres my problem muthey. that screw on the cover is missing. bike bandit wants 3.70 for it and the gasket, but its 7 bucks for shipping. i couldnt stand doing that, but might have to.

and el Camexican: Im almost 100percent sure i set the timing right. there is a little screw you unscrew, that marks TDC, the gear marks TDC, and I did the screw driver in the cylinder trick. all was fine, the only thing is that i wasnt sure about was the Cam chain adjuster. i tuned it so that the adjuster pin was just flush with the end of the adjuster, like it says in the manual, but it seems over tight. and when my engine idled out, as well as when i started it once it made a loud popping noise, didnt sound mettalic though. and i think i'll have to take you up on the whole float set up thing when you get a chance. Thanks everyone

[El Camexican]

Ok, I'll try to do that for you ASAP, but maybe in a seperate post as it seems to come up a lot. Sounds like it will take you a while to get the decompression fixed any way. PM me if you don't see it by next weekend.

[muthey]

I will pull the screw I have and measure it for you so you can go to a home depot or something and buy a new one

[muthey]

well after pulling it and getting all the dimensions for you, you would pay too much at a machine shop to get it made, so you are better off buying one new here is the print for it. http://i1195.photobucket.com/albums/aa384/bamuth13/decompressionbolt.jpg?t=1312341556

[dear140]

very appreciated muthet thanks a ton.

[muthey]

no problem, I assumed it was a regular bolt until I pulled it and looked myself if I still was working as a machinist I could knock one out in about 15 minutes with ease, but am not working at the moment

[El Camexican]

I'm starting to wonder if this bolt issue didn't bend a valve, or if perhaps you blew a head gasket.

[dear140]

I'm hoping neither... I just replaced the head and base gasket after i got done with a total top end rebuild.