View Full Version : Sandblasting and Powder Coating Questions
k00leo
08-15-2011, 09:08 AM
So, Dad is building a new shed. There is now a lot for room for new toys and tools. I want to get started sandblasting and powder coating parts. Question is, what do I need to get started?
I've been doing some research and I think I may have found what I need to get started, but since I am new to the sandblasting and powder coating thing, I want to check with you guys and gals first.
I don't need anything too fancy or expensive. I will mainly be powder coating three wheeler and four wheeler parts. I want to do a whole rebuild on my 1985 atc 250r.
Here is a cheep sandblaster that i have been looking at.
http://cgi.ebay.com/PORTABLE-AIR-SANDBLASTER-10-GALLON-SAND-BLASTER-TOOLS-/330486084179?pt=Sanders_Sandblasters&hash=item4cf2817253
Would this be sufficient for what I want to do?
I have also been looking at this powder coating kit from eastwood.
http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-elite-powder-coat-kit.html
What do you think about the powder coating kit?
Now, I don't plan to make this some kind of part time job. I just want to do it as a hobby and enjoy bringing the old 250r back to its glory days. I know that the majority of the parts will fit in a home oven (which i plan to buy on the cheap via Craigslist) but the frame i will have to either find someone with a huge industrial oven or possibly buy one of those heat lamps? What do you think of those heat lamps?
Thanks for the help!
Swinger
08-15-2011, 09:25 AM
The sand blaster should be fine but as far as putting stuff in an oven Im not sure if thats good or not. Ive used heat lamps doing body work on cars and they work good but I have no clue what the specs are for powder coat, Im sure someone on here does though!!
k00leo
08-15-2011, 09:46 AM
From what i have read online, it seems that you can basically put whatever you can fit in a home oven with the temp at 400 for 20min. You need to keep food ovens and powder coat ovens separate though.
What kind of heat lamps do you use? I hear that it takes a painfully long time.
Swinger
08-15-2011, 09:51 AM
not sure what kind they are, regular body work heat lamps but yes they do take a while!!
Vealmonkey
08-15-2011, 12:42 PM
I don't recommend sand blasting unless you have something heavy duty and steel. Bead blasting is way more kinder to trike parts. Also, you can get nice results with the eastwood powdercoating system. I'm not familiar with any others. With the eastwood system you can bake parts in a home over, industrial over or use heatlamps to flow and cure the powdercoating finish, but it takes longer than putting parts in the oven and you have to be careful not to contaminate any uncured areas of the part that you are doing. Whatever system you choose, carefully read and follow all recommended instructions and procedures or you will have a poor and very short lasting finish. Also part cleanliness is very important. Proper parts cleaning products and their removal from the parts you will be coating is a must. Some parts may need a preliminary bake to remove any traces of cleaning products or water residue from your parts before coating. The amount of work you put into the part before you even begin to powdercoat will definitely affect the finished product. Be patient and take your time and read all instructions several times over and follow them closely for best results.
Best of luck. Many members on here have been fairly successful with home powdercoating, but it does take some time and effort.
R-tifacts
08-15-2011, 01:03 PM
I sand blast with very low pressure, just enough to remove what your trying to remove. No need to get all crazy, I use a cheap $80 power coater from harbor freight and an old house oven, anything smaller than 24" will fit, but it needs to hang or you will end up with grate marks in your product. No doubt meida blasting is much softer and better for the part but i do not have use of one. Same goes with power coating, the pro shops will end up with a better result but with much more cost. So I guess it depend what end result your going for, perfect or good enough. I keep cost down by doing what i can "in house".
k00leo
08-15-2011, 01:46 PM
So it seems that the sandblaster and powder coating kit that I picked would be sufficient for what I need to do.
What type of air compressor will i need for sand blasting and powder coating?
What CFM / PSI compressor should i be looking to purchase?
I see that a sandblaster similar to the one that i picked above requires 6-25 CFM @ 60-125 PSI
http://cgi.ebay.com/40-Lb-Abrasive-Pressure-Sand-Blaster-25-CFM-125-PSI-/110727048698?pt=Sanders_Sandblasters&hash=item19c7d8adfa
So I basically need to purchase a compressor with a CFM & PSI within that range correct? Sorry, for the dumb questions. I new to this.
R-tifacts
08-15-2011, 02:30 PM
Your going to want something with decent size storage tank, the more the compressor has to run the hotter the air it builds= more condensation in the lines/tank. Be sure to get an in line water filter.
Vealmonkey
08-15-2011, 06:57 PM
Yes, inline water filter for sure, good catch on that one. I would recommend that whatever powder coating system you are looking at, see what they recommend as far as air flow and pressure. Your air pressure for blowing the powder will be really low psi. You may need a pressure regulator dedicated just for your powder coating gun. Eastwood also sells the heat lamps as well as a really extensive line of different powder colors and textures. You may also want to look into some type of a baking soda gun for cleaning real delicate parts like plastics and small or fine finished aluminum parts. And of course, baking soda is environmentally friendly and easily washes away with water. Get online and check out websites that better describe what all is involved with powdercoating. Eastwood company is out of PA, so things ship quickly and relatively inexpensively down to here. Also, if you use another companies powder coating products for a different set up you have, make sure to thoroughly read what the new products instructions call for as their methods may differ slightly.
k00leo
08-16-2011, 03:03 PM
Well, just bought a super cheap sand blaster. It should get here in about a week.
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
We will see how it does. I'm not really expecting anything spectacular.
I think I'm going to tear down the atc250r, sandblast everything and hopefully by then i can buy myself a powder coat system as a birthday present to myself :D
R-tifacts
08-16-2011, 03:36 PM
With out a cabnet your going to make a mess, be sure there is nothing within a 25 foot radius you dont want said in/on. Also there are diffrent grits to the sand your gona want something small so that blaster doesnt clog up, and to not dammage the product.
k00leo
08-16-2011, 03:46 PM
Finding a place to sandblast isn't going to be a problem at all.
I have heard that some people just go to their local home department store and buy play sand. Have any of you guys used play sand in your sandblasters? or do you buy the actual glass/sand mix, crushed walnuts, etc. ?
200x350xtriz250
08-16-2011, 06:42 PM
Well, just bought a super cheap sand blaster. It should get here in about a week.
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
We will see how it does. I'm not really expecting anything spectacular.
I think I'm going to tear down the atc250r, sandblast everything and hopefully by then i can buy myself a powder coat system as a birthday present to myself :D
I bought that same blaster for my larger stuff that won't fit in my cabinent - it works pretty good for a $15 product. I've sand blasted a couple frames and some other large things - no plugging up, no problems. I use some blasting media you can get at TSC for about $7 a bag - I'm not sure what it is exactly Black something.
k00leo
08-17-2011, 08:07 AM
I bought that same blaster for my larger stuff that won't fit in my cabinent - it works pretty good for a $15 product. I've sand blasted a couple frames and some other large things - no plugging up, no problems. I use some blasting media you can get at TSC for about $7 a bag - I'm not sure what it is exactly Black something.
Whew I'm glad you chimed in. I've read some mixed reviews about this sandblaster but for $40 i figured i couldn't loose. Worse came to worse i would just use the bucket for something haha.
What company does TSC stand for? Tractor Supply Company??
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/sandblasting-tools-accessories/black-diamond-20-40-blasting-media-50-lb--3905403
200x350xtriz250
08-17-2011, 07:00 PM
Whew I'm glad you chimed in. I've read some mixed reviews about this sandblaster but for $40 i figured i couldn't loose. Worse came to worse i would just use the bucket for something haha.
What company does TSC stand for? Tractor Supply Company??
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/sandblasting-tools-accessories/black-diamond-20-40-blasting-media-50-lb--3905403
Yes, TSC stands for Tractor Supply Company. I only paid $15 for my blaster and it is well worth that. That is also the media I used on my frames but it may have been another grit.
EarlyBronocGuy
09-26-2011, 11:13 AM
Sandblasting can be a royal pain in the ass, but it's the best way to get metal parts well and truly clean. I have a blast cabinet, and have used it to blast tons of parts - but dealing with air compressors, humidity, clogged nozzles, sand EVERYWHERE, and the need to prime or otherwise protect freshly blasted bare metal can end up being more trouble than its worth.
If you live in an area with high humidity, the sand wants to clump together and clog the nozzle, so you end up having to stop and clean it all the time. Plus, once the parts are down to bare metal, they'll flash rust just from the moisture in the air. If you live in an area of low humidity, the static electricity buildup from sandblasting can be annoying to deal with all the time.
The air compressor will be running a lot, which means a lot of noise - plus the noise of the blasting, and if you have a vacum system hooked up to control the dust, noise from that, too. Earplugs get to be necessary. Plus eye protection (safety glasses are good, goggles that seal around the eyes are better), and some kind of filter over your nose and mouth to keep from inhaling all the sand and dust in the air. No matter how well you're protected, you're still going to be covered head to toe (and ears, and eyes, etc) in sand.
Parts have to clean and dry before being blasted, all grease, oil, stickers, etc have to be removed, fragile areas taped off.
I've haven't tried powdercoating, I've had so many issues with sandblasting that I'm not looking for more trouble.
Not trying to talk you out of it if you want to give it a try, but after you add up the costs to do it yourself (quality compressor, air drier, sandblast cabinet, materials, protective gear, plus all the setup/cleanup time and hassle) - it's easier and about the same cost to have a pro do it for you. Drop rusty parts off, come back in a week or two and pick up nice clean shiny parts.
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