View Full Version : torque wrench settings with an adapter HELP
yamaha driver
01-11-2012, 09:35 PM
Ok so getting my 125 rebuild i found out if you use and extension on your torque wrench it changes the torque. I have a 1/2 inch torque wrench and the only sockets i have are 3/8, so i have to use an adapter thats about 1 inch long. What should i change the torque to? or does it stay the same? I stripped one out on my 250r doing it the same way and i dont want to strip another. Its a standard torque wrench also not digital THANKS
Dirtcrasher
01-11-2012, 09:40 PM
Back when I had a CR250, I had to use a 1-1.5" adapter to get the cylinder base nuts with a torque wrench.
The math formula I found online showed that such a short distance was insignificant (or wrong)..........
yamaha driver
01-11-2012, 09:41 PM
o hmm mabey my torque wrench is junk lol
anyone else know?
Bryan Raffa
01-11-2012, 09:48 PM
use a deep socket?
yamaha driver
01-11-2012, 09:49 PM
i could but i dont have a 12mm 1/2 drive socket:D thats why the adapter
Dirtcrasher
01-11-2012, 09:54 PM
I was speaking about an adapter that made the socket distance further outwards from the torque wrench pivot.
I routinely use 3/8" drive sockets on my 1/2" torque wrench as well as 1/4" sockets on my 3/8ths" torque wrench; If it strips you have a crappy nut/bolt/stud or torque wrench.
Vealmonkey
01-11-2012, 09:55 PM
The torque setting should be the same as long as the adapter is in line with the socket. If you had to use something like a crows foot open end wrench attachment, that is what should change the torque setting. But an adapter, as long as it's inline, should be no change.
grundlegrabber
01-11-2012, 09:55 PM
If you are just adapting drive sizes, you should not need to change anything. Compensating formulas are needed when you use an adapter to reach nuts/bolts that you cannot get on top of with a socket. The piece you would use looks like a double box-end wrench with a square ratchet drive hole in the center. Since it effectively extends the length of the torque wrench, you need to change your numbers around. Usually the adapter will come with instructions. With what you are doing, you don't need to change anything. Just make sure you are using a good quality torque wrench. Torque wrenches should have calibration checked periodically and need to be treated like delicate instruments to maintain accuracy.
Bryan Raffa
01-11-2012, 09:59 PM
Dam your cheep...:D add +1 I'm sure you will be fine on a +1" extension .....Just as long as you do em all the same way with the same tool..;)
yamaha driver
01-11-2012, 09:59 PM
ok thanks guys it must be my torque wrench was kinda cheap. Hope i can borrow a good one from my neighbor just to finish this project
EDIT: RAFFA Yea im pretty cheap lol i have tons of sockets but for somereson not a 12mm that size... since i usualy buy craftsman sockets (IDK WHY) they crack on the sides, then i dont notice and they strip my nut. SOO they usualy get tossed as far out in the woods as possible...
Bryan Raffa
01-11-2012, 10:13 PM
I got a cheep torque wrench,, it works great!!:beer
big red in iowa
01-11-2012, 10:23 PM
a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter wont change your torque spec, what changes it is the flex in an extension
WIkid500
01-11-2012, 10:56 PM
Just remember inch pounds are NOT foot pounds... and versavisa.
Dirtcrasher
01-11-2012, 11:11 PM
Yes, the dividing by 12 can confuse the best of us :D
The Newton scale is a whole other topic :lol:
I thought craftsman sockets had a lifetime warranty on them?
Name Brand
01-12-2012, 01:54 AM
Some things I do...
Torque the nut, not the bolt. (There are a few, very few exceptions to this though)
When using a crow's foot or dogbone, orientate it 90 degrees to the handle. (not inline with the wrench) This doesn't change the distance any significant amount and keeps you from having to do calculations.
Most things have a torque range. For example let's say the correct torque on a nut is 45 to 55 in/lbs. I usually go to the highest torque. If I am using a short extension I don't get worried about the loss of torque due to flex in the extension since I am unlikely to end up with less than the minimum torque.
If I need to put a cotter pin in a castle nut I will torque to the lowest amount in the torque range. If the hole doesn't line up; I set the torque wrench to the top of the torque range and rotate the nut until the hole lines up without having the wrench click. This way I know I am above minimum torque and not above maximum torque.
Remove corrosion, dirt, fod and anything that will cause the hardware to drag or bind. This will give a false indication.
If I have to, the general rule is to torque a nut 1/6 to 1/3 past the torque rise.
yamaha driver
01-12-2012, 09:11 AM
Yea craftsman have warranty but... they snap alot so i throw them lol
Yea craftsman have warranty but... they snap alot so i throw them lol
I figured it might be that It just feels good to chuck them as hard as you can!
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