View Full Version : 250r help
Downrangecop
02-02-2012, 05:21 PM
Hey guys, gotta ask some opinions here and hoping for some experienced answers. I'm rebuilding my 85 250r, which is in great shape, but want to make into a wicked duner (and it has to kick my friend's banshee's ass). I'm definitely going big bore (310- 370...) and making this thing look sick. I've done a couple resto's a few years back, and this time have the benefit of it being a "Money no option" kinda project. I don't want a straight line bike either. My last bike was a quadzilla with a trinity built motor dyno'd at 70 hp... a blast but too much compression and it grenaded my ankle. Had to sell it cause after a year I still couldn't start it.
So questions are
1. what kind of big bore should I go (ESR?)
2. how can I pimp out the suspension? (I'm 215 lbs and like to jump)
3. where can I get some badass foot pegs? ( See above... my stock ones are sagging bad!)
4. where is a good place to pick up an extended swinger, and how long should I go to balance controllable with jumpable?
I know it's alot of opinion, but I appreciate the input from people who've gone there before.
And by the way, that banshee has a trinity motor on race gas. It's still supposedly a 350 tho (I don't believe it though, I rode it and it screams).
RIDE-RED 250r
02-02-2012, 05:50 PM
Well, I suggest you check out TRX250r.net. There are alot of opinions on this subject. I have an ESR 350 cylinder kit on my ATC, but I can't really speak of any good/bad experience with it as I just did the build a month ago and it's my first.
IMHO, from what info I have gleaned from places like TRX250r.net your top-shelf big bores will be CP Industries. They make the Sphynx, Puma and Sabertooth big bore clys for the R's. Quite pricey but that's what many of the big dogs run when money is of no consequence.
Some say Pro-X is better than ESR, others say the opposite.. It's really a matter of point of view.
ESR does put some good package deals together.. I bought my 350 kit with race gas dome, ESR reedblock, ESR ATC5 pipe, silencer, case boring, TRX9 porting, gaskets and crank seals for a little over $1300 to my door.
I hear ALOT of good things from ALOT of people about BDT Motorsports... Carlos (who owns BDT) is over on TRX250r.net, he goes by acecarlos there.
There is alot of info out there, best I can tell you to do, is look around, especially on 250r.net.. Figure out what your budget is, talk to people who are running various big bores and make your decision....
BTW, I'm not trying to steer anyone away from 3WW, but there is a plethora of 250r specific information over there that I have found very helpful..
bannedbrraap
02-02-2012, 07:51 PM
If money is no problem build a puma.....expect to spend 4000+ with cylinder, piston, case mods, crank, ignition, pipe, and carb....:naughty:
Downrangecop
02-02-2012, 11:27 PM
thanks Red. I checked BDT and he has a good setup for a 330 kit with long rod. I have a great (former pro) local mechanic that I trust with all my work, but he's a yamaha guy. He's extremely knowledgeable with two strokes (He pushed another 4.5 horse out of the trinity zilla motor for FREE while he was in there just to show me he could!). I'm sending him the bottom end to go through it next week, and he was asking if I was sticking with the stock rod or not. After a little reading on 250r.org I think I'll run the 4mm long rod with the 330 kit. I have an email in to carlos to see what he recommends. He's only a couple hours away from me anyway.
So any recommendations on suspension? Rear shock and/ or what can I do with the front end to get some better suspension out of this thing. And the pegs are another major point of contention. Anyone else have a problem bending pegs?
RIDE-RED 250r
02-03-2012, 05:24 PM
Be prepared for significant sparkplug clearance issues with the long rod setup. You can run BR8ECM shorty plugs at 10 bucks a pop. I did my engine with the short rod setup, I can run the regular plug, but I had to buy a different boot and trim it to fit. The '85 had less clearance than the '86 due to a different design of the mainframe brace that runs directly over the head. Like I said, a shorty plug will work, but are pricey and not widely available locally (at least for me) making things a bit more of a hassle when jetting in or just needing to pick up a couple of spare plugs... They are readily available online... But that doesn't do ya much good when you need a plug "right now"...
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