Still having problems with my 85r

[SteveCZ28]

I guess ill start a new thread being as i bumped my old one back up, and someone deleted the posts, and never gave me a reason as to why they deleted my posts on the previous thread making it go back to when i quit actively posting on it back in december

ok ill bring you guys up to speed really quick

ive been having problems with my 85 250r. had problems of it running rich no matter what i did to it, even though it has full fmf exhaust and had open k&n pod... couldnt for the life of me get it to quit running rich even on stock/factory jetting. switched carbs and now it is acting normal, showing its really lean. since then added the full airbox to it and a uni filter
this is my first time messing with it since i nstalled a airbox and filter again

got to messing around again with it this weekennd. had a 145 main jet in it, got it started but it was chugging pretty good and had thick smoke. so i dropped the main down to a 142. got it going again its chugging/loading up really bad so bad it wont get any kind of power out of it at all. so i try my best at a plug chop...still shows its rich. so i moved the needle clip from the very bottom (richest) to the middle. tried getting it going again. it got a tiny bit better, still doesnt make power at all, but now i can get it to go wot but it is still loading up way bad. did a plug chop, and now it shows its lean. drop the clip from the middle to the 2nd from bottom. get it going again. its acting a hair better, still no power at all. did a plug chop. now it shows its rich again???

i have no clue what is going on. the engine is brand new with maybe 1 hour tops on it. has new seals through out. and i did spray wd-40 around the carb and reed areas, and am not getting a air leak...im just at a loss as to what to do with this bike....it literally has never run right since ive owned it. and ive never had any thing sooo tempermental before. i mean cmon how can it go from lean to rich in 1 clip movement....im just about ready to throw in the towel on this bike. im open to all suggestions right now....i still dont even know if its the carb, being as it is the stock 85 carb. which is the pe keihin

[falloutboy]

I think there was some problems with the server recently, I don't think anybody deliberately deleted posts.

[barrett8]

take you spark plug out it should have a bright blue spark atc 300r as a good point you might not have a strong spark.

[rjs89ia]

i dont know whether or not you shut your fuel off for that long period of sitting but if the new carb had a float problem it might have filled your crank well with some fuel and its just taking a while to get it cleared out. only problem with that is the oil settles and it doesnt like to evaporate so easily.

[just ben]

I remember someone having the same issues recently.I believe it was a trx 250r. the culprit turned out to be the CDI. My guess would be the cdi wasn't advancing. If you have a known good one to swap it out with,it would be worth a try. I will try to find the previous thread

[SteveCZ28]

i have a new coil in it. i tried that with my old motor...it has bright blue spark. plug is new. yes i shut the petcock off for that time. the float is set properly. and does shut fuel flow off at the right point....i also thought of the cdi...it is worth a shot.. cuz something is definatley acting up. i figured stator but my new motor came with a good stator, and what are the chances that 2 stators are bad, when both are clean and free from corrosion... so i guess ill look for a cdi and go from there...

old thread:
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/139072-Need-help-with-jets

[SteveCZ28]

Pipe and silencer are new. The bike is in a heated and insulated garage with no mice.

[SteveCZ28]

Would a bad cdi cause what sounds like backfiring when trying to go wot? And would it also cause it to kick back when trying to start the bike? Because I always get to the very bottom of the stroke on the kick starter and then it fires and always kicks back hard as hell

[atc007]

Def sounds ignition related,,More than likely CDI !

[SteveCZ28]

OK. I bought a cdi. So we will see if that's the culprit

[rjs89ia]

any luck with the new cdi?

[SteveCZ28]

just got the cdi today. wont have time to mess with it till early next week

[SteveCZ28]

got released from work tonite. so i got to messing with the r today. put in the cdi. now it kicks back even worse than it did before....now when i hold it wide open it doesnt backfire or pop now. but still no power. did a plug chop. still showing its lean. had a 142 main with air box, and uni filter and full fmf exhaust....long story short. jumped it up to a 150 main, and its still showing its lean....so i get to order more jets for it and see how high i have to go before itll make power, before the stupid thing blows up from being lean...im honestly really close to giving in and parting the trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro out

[falloutboy]

I'd expect it to be somewhere in the high 160's, maybe 170's.

I've got a pipe, silencer, and a k&n on my bike and I'm at a 172, at sea level.

[Nick_R_23]

Have you checked the keyway on your flywheel to make sure it hasn't slipped or moved?

[SteveCZ28]

fly wheel is solid, doesnt have a sheared key way

[rdlsz24]

Have you tried putting everything back to stock and seeing how it runs, just to get a baseline? I don't know how feasible this is for you but I think I remember you just having bolt-on mods.

Rob

[SteveCZ28]

dont have stock stuff to put back on...it never had an airbox when i bought it. and i sold the stock silencer.

[86ATC 250r]

i had the same problem and i tried everything. but mine fired up first kick and ran but didnt have no power. i changed everything in the carb to new and nothing. and i tried all other kinds of stuff.. here it was my head gasket. changed that to a new one and all was good... dnt kno if that would help ya or not. jus wanted to give ya my 2 cents..

[Dirtcrasher]

If it kicks back, it may be too far advanced. Check the key.......

I rarely mess with the needle, thats a fine tune adjustment to me.

Start it very fat on the main and work down form there. A rich gas mix makes for a lean air mix. a lean gas mix makes for a richer gas mix to work with..........

[SteveCZ28]

i looked in there and its fine. but my old motor kicked back way hard too. doubt that both key ways were shot in 2 seperate motors

on another note, i ordered 2 more sets of jets. 1 set is 150-160 and the 2nd set is 160-170. i hope i can get it figured out

[SteveCZ28]

got a chance to work on this before work yesterday. jumped my main up to a 170. still no power. and still showing lean on the plug.....so i ordered another set of 5 jets 170-180...

i still dont even know if i have another junk carb or not

[SteveCZ28]

i thought i would bring this back up as i see anothe rmember is having similar issues with his r........like his my r also has alot of oil seepage between the cylinder and head pipe...and also where the head pipe and silencer connect....but what i dont understand is the plug is still dry, or showing a lean condition when i attempt to do a plug chop....any ideas??

[atc007]

I'd say you've chased this far enough to start back at basics. Compression is how many Lbs ? Do a leak down test. That's imperative. NOW,,you KNOW you are working with a solid engine. I suspect maybe you will find a leak. If you don't have a leak down test kit. you can make one easy enough.I think this will find your problem. If it doesn't,you are back to ignition or fuel delivery. No fun,but worth it in the long run!!

[SteveCZ28]

180lbs for compression. will do a leak down test, although i dont know what ill find being as my old motor had the exact same tempermental problems, ie kicking back, no power. thick oil coming from between cylinder and pipe, and also between pipe and silencer. but both motors showed a lean condition on plug

[AngusJustice]

I hear you 28 I bought a 85 250r 5yrs ago and it never really ran right about a month after I got her and I have also felt like destroying it after many many attempts to get it running right. All can say is my acted just like yours until I changed my crank seals, carb, Coil, Plug and my flywheel key (Sheared) , Then and only then did it come to life I thought about CDI,Coil Every other electrical thing (I was lucky I had a 2d 85 250r that was just running good so I used all the parts from it to check. If its kicking back and back firing (its a timing issue usually). My 85 purrs like a Killer Kitten now so don't give up just yet! Every time I felt like giving up I took a step away. If you have owned one before you know what your missing and if you haven owned one before it is one of the greatest machines ever produced by Honda. Good Luck!

[atc007]

180lbs for compression. will do a leak down test, although i dont know what ill find being as my old motor had the exact same tempermental problems, ie kicking back, no power. thick oil coming from between cylinder and pipe, and also between pipe and silencer. but both motors showed a lean condition on plug

I would want a leak test just to know.. BUT,,if you're saying TWO different engines have the SAME EXACT problem in your chassis. Kinda sounds like carb or ignition. I should have went back and reread your post ,but didn't. I really thought the box would do it at first. Will be interesting to see what it was when you're done!

[Super350]

heres my 2 cents? OIL! What are you running? Had a neighbor who had similar problems (fouling plugs all the time, low power, oil seepage) he was running that rc-51 or whatever...and NOT racing. Changed to reg. Klotz and boom a world of difference

[ceaserthethird]

First you need to plug those exhaust leaks, than you'll need to remove your flywheel and make sure u have a
woodruff aka flywheel key. Than do a leak down test.

Report back.

Can you post a video of u starting it ?

[SteveCZ28]

I hear you 28 I bought a 85 250r 5yrs ago and it never really ran right about a month after I got her and I have also felt like destroying it after many many attempts to get it running right. All can say is my acted just like yours until I changed my crank seals, carb, Coil, Plug and my flywheel key (Sheared) , Then and only then did it come to life I thought about CDI,Coil Every other electrical thing (I was lucky I had a 2d 85 250r that was just running good so I used all the parts from it to check. If its kicking back and back firing (its a timing issue usually). My 85 purrs like a Killer Kitten now so don't give up just yet! Every time I felt like giving up I took a step away. If you have owned one before you know what your missing and if you haven owned one before it is one of the greatest machines ever produced by Honda. Good Luck!

yea i almost just want to run the thing over with my truck.... i have no clue what is up

[SteveCZ28]

heres my 2 cents? OIL! What are you running? Had a neighbor who had similar problems (fouling plugs all the time, low power, oil seepage) he was running that rc-51 or whatever...and NOT racing. Changed to reg. Klotz and boom a world of difference

amsoil interceptor synthetic oil at 32:1

[SteveCZ28]

I would want a leak test just to know.. BUT,,if you're saying TWO different engines have the SAME EXACT problem in your chassis. Kinda sounds like carb or ignition. I should have went back and reread your post ,but didn't. I really thought the box would do it at first. Will be interesting to see what it was when you're done!

i need to goto the hardware store tomorrow to get and adaptor plug to work on my home made leak down tester. yea thats what i dont undertsnad is 2 engines acting exactly the same....ive tried all i can with the electrical. the only thing i was thinking about trying is a new wiring harness. maybe i have a messed up wire somewhere...who knows

[SteveCZ28]

First you need to plug those exhaust leaks, than you'll need to remove your flywheel and make sure u have a
woodruff aka flywheel key. Than do a leak down test.

Report back.

Can you post a video of u starting it ?

how do i fix the exhaust leaks? i have a rubber grommet type thing between the pipe and silencer but it still blows thru in that area. and would i need a new header flange on the cylinder to seal the pipe to it better???

checked flywheel key. its still in there and tight.
ill try to get a video of me starting the stupid thing. im almost to the point of hating this thing, because honestly my foot hurts for atleast a week after i attempt to start it with all the kick backs it does.

[SteveCZ28]

also the only elctrical thing i have not replaced is the kill switch (but its working so why replace it) and the voltage regulator....but isnt the voltage regulator only for the lighting on the bike???

also if i were to go with a different wiring harness would a harness from a 86 work if it had a cdi with it, as i know the cdis are different on 85 and 86. but if the 86 harness came with a cdi i dont know if it would work on my 85 still. i dont see why it wouldnt tho

[ceaserthethird]

Yes it would work, I have a '86 harness with working CDI.

[threewheelin-feelin]

sounds like your chasing similar problems as me...good luck man first one to figure it out wins!!! lol

[jr66645]

I am running the amsoil dominator. started running it at 40:1 and ran rich and smoked alot. Looked on the back of the bottle, recommended to run at 50:1. Screamed ever since. Had alot of spooge coming out of the silencer too. Just thought I would mention it. Put a Br7es in it too. That helped

[SteveCZ28]

I did notice the 50:1 rating when I looked at the bottle lastnite. Ill have to give it a try. Already running a br7es. Idont know if that would show a lean condition on my plug when I do a plug chop

[ceaserthethird]

I only run BR8, Br9 & BR10. I think that plug is really Hot. Try running a BR9ES NGK.

[SteveCZ28]

would a 8,9, or 10 solve my kick back issue??

[atc007]

7 is too hot. When All is perfect,,that will eat you a hole in the top of the piston... You can compensate and run a 7. But a B9ES is where I want to be. That is not resisted. BR9ES is resisted if you ride around any others? tv/Radios etc.. That isn't gonna change your kickback though . : (

[SteveCZ28]

sorry i mistook the spark plug. im running a br8es

[SteveCZ28]

ok finally got my lazy ass up early enough to go to the hardware store to make the new pieces to fit the r for my leak down tester....plugged the motor all up, put in tester, put in 7psi. it held about 6.5 psi for 10 minutes. i took rad cap off just incase it wanted to blow pressure that way, and also took oil cap off to see if it would vent pressure that way, and both came up free of pressure release. so im going with all seals are good....

now im down to maybe trying a different wiring harness

or a different known good carb......

any suggestions??

[jb2wheels]

When I first bought my 85R last year, it would not run right. Basically, it would never "clean out" and was always smoky and oily.

After rebuilding the car and replacing crank seals with no change, I replaced the stator and problem solved.

The stator I started with measured "in spec" at 130 ohm. However, I was told the liquid R's were generally not happy with a stator under 200 ohm even though the spec is 50-250 (I think - need to look it up again to be sure). The used replacement I bought read right at 200 ohm and problem solved.

The next thing on my checklist was reeds. I have the replacements and the gaskets should I need them.

Check both if you haven't already. Good luck.

[SteveCZ28]

reeds are brand new and are sealed...

i dont know about the stator, being as my old motor had all these problems. and i bought my new motor with a stator. and it still has problems.... but i guess i can ohm it again ( i ohmed it alread but cant remember the ratin)


*edit: just bought a complete wiring harness...will see what it does