Tri z race mods

[Jcormode]

Hey guys I've an 86 z that I'm having a mess with and was wondering If anyone has done what the Yamaha wrench report says? Obviously it was for the 85 mod but I'm planning on putting an early 85 barral on mine (38w) as I'm sure there a tougher bore?
Wana play with the sus also might chop 4" off fork legs and 2" off the springs? Heavier oil etc.
Cheers

[TimSr]

Hey guys I've an 86 z that I'm having a mess with and was wondering If anyone has done what the Yamaha wrench report says? Obviously it was for the 85 mod but I'm planning on putting an early 85 barral on mine (38w) as I'm sure there a tougher bore?
Wana play with the sus also might chop 4" off fork legs and 2" off the springs? Heavier oil etc.
Cheers

The key to the wrench report is that it was published many years ago as a practical upgrade AT THE TIME. The greatest improvements for the least money can be with some decent cylinder porting and a set of Boysen reeds. For a little more money you can fill in the missing low end power with an inexpensive DG pipe. Not sure what you mean by "barral". I don't undertsand what you are hoping to gain by chopping off the fork legs and springs. The 86 front suspension is as good as it gets. Ride height can be changed by sliding the fork tubes farthe rup in the triple tree, and is completely reversible if you dont like it. You have about 4 or 5" to play with. Preload can be adjusted with spacers. Progressive wound springs are available. Oil amount will make it softer or harder by changing internal air pressure. Heavier oil will slow rebound, lighter oil speeds rebound. The bigger gains can be made in rear suspension, but thats more money. Any aftermarket shock with remote resevoir or no resevoir that is Banshee/Warrior length will work. Don't use a shock with a piggyback resevoir.

Without knowing your weight, height, riding level, type of riding and terrian, its impossible to make specific setup recommendations, but proper setup and tuning will go much farther than mods, and "racing" can be anything from 1/4 mile drag on pavement to a cross country swamp and woods race.

[Jcormode]

Cheers for reply, I've got dog full pipe polished ports and mx air filter. With regards forks I've ran them through to a nice height and as you say I'm not going to chop them down now because of the moor hopping that we do. I'm 5,10 approx 180 kg and riding it motox so big jumps tite corners. I like the sound that banshee rear shock goes on because my pals just fitted a ktm shock on his, will have to check regards piggyback though. Barrel I ment cylinder.
Also when the piston is all the way down there is a drop into the exhaust port, what dya reckon to raising cylinder up and
Shimming head to suit.
Just Wana build a fully tuned monster and it getting nicely on the way.
Cheers for advice on oils in forks ect big help that

[Jcormode]

80kg in weight ha ha Not 180

[TimSr]

80kg in weight ha ha Not 180

LOL! I was trying to think of a polite way to tell you you need to be on a 700cc utility!


I'm surprised to hear they are racing trike MX over there! I thought Ohio was the world's last holdout.

The OEM banshee shocks are all piggy back resevoir and won't fit because of that, except 87 and I believe 88, but they are the right length. many aftermarkets offer a "banshee" shock with a reomte resevior.(on the end of a tube) The best MX shock I found for TriZ was a Works Stadium shock which allows you to lower the ride height. Its an odd design that I thought was dumb until it tried it when I found one at a bargain! They are very expensive new, though. Mine was an ebay bargain. The stock shock uses about the right spring for your weight. The warrior OEM shock is slightly stiffer, so if you use one of those, put your TriZ spring on it. If you get an aftermarket shock , make sure you get it sprung for a lightweight. Most will do that from the shock dealer if you buy new as part of the cost. Most used ones are sprung for 100kg riders or heavier.(fat Americans LOL!)

I like 30wt fork oil for the front for MX, while I run only about 15wt for trail riding. Same thing if you run a rear shock with adjustable dampening, adjust it to rebound fairly slow for MX. With your weight I would run the mfg's recommendation for oil amount in the front, with no preload. If you end up using progressive springs in the front you'll probably run a couple ounces less oil in each fork as they are a little stiffer, even at the light end of progression.

The 85 and 86 cylinders are exactly the same, and have the same replacment part number.

Was the 2nd boost port added to yours when it was ported? There are advantages in correct port timing,(raising or lowering ports or cylinder) but changing it only helps if it is off. If you raise the cylinder, you have to lower the head to keep the same compression. If ports need lowered, they do that in a porting job. Personally, unless you know exactly what you are doing, I'd leave it alone to avoid an expensive screw up.

Check out the link in my signature for pics and videos of Ohio 3 wheeler MX racing.

[Jcormode]

MASSIVE LIKE FOR THE OTC!!!!! Love the vids lad !
Yea we've just had our first race since the ban and had to call it a demo because no one would insure us.
I've had a look at my mate banshee and it is piggy back and it's off a ccm so out of the question on that one. I'm going to give the 30wt a go and see how I like it. Didn't know anything about the second boost port when we did it so Sno, can you see difference? I Wana move to Ohio after watching u boys racing, give me the horn lol. I'm not sure on the 85 and 86 cylinders being the same? The only reason being is that I was chatting to an old geezer that does loads of tuning and he mentioned that ther was a 38w cylinder aposed to the 38w01 that was a faster engine and it was on the early 85's could be wrong tho as I've never heard or Sean any. Can't wait get back on it just dropped the frame off to have peg mounts beefed up