Bought An '83 Honda XR80 - Need Help!!!

[Gearheadtom]

EDIT: Need help, read post #10

I picked up an '83 xr80 yesterday from someone on Kijiji. The guy said it just needed the top end put back on and it should run. Put it together and found that the spark plug threads were stripped but I know a guy that might have a heli coil set.
Then checked for spark and found none. Pulled the flywheel to check the points, and found that the magnets were basically gone (a couple little chunks left), and that the stator was completelt f-ed. Bought a flywheel and stator together on ebay for $70 shipped, and I bought the whole bike $100.
I thought I didn't do to bad on the price until I found the stator issue. It feels to have good compression tho, when the plug stays in.
So what you all of you think?

Does anyone know where I can download a manual for this thing?

Here's some pics:
I do have the seat, just not on in the pics, but I am missing the side covers.

[atc350xer]

Nice vintage bike, I love the old twin rear shocks. I'd say you did well, after all is said and done, you may have $300 in it, which ain't bad.

[Gearheadtom]

That's good to know, I was thinking I ended up doing kinda crumby.
I also need a seat pan, mine is kinda fubar-ed.

[Gearheadtom]

Got my flywheel and stator in the mail and got it put on and tried to get it started. It'll idle, but if I try to give it gas at all it'll die. Moving the choke around doesn't help, and changing the needle positions doesn't make a difference either.
Next thing to try is cleaning the points better. I gave them a quick clean to get fire, but they're still pitted pretty bad. Timing advancer seems to be moving as well
Anyone think of anything else I haven't thought of?

[Gearheadtom]

I got this thing running a bit better. I ended up using a different set of points, which got the timing set just about perfect. The old set was worn really bad, which threw the timing way out. It'll rev now, but I still gotta play with the thottle to get it to.
I points on it now are still an old worn out set, and the condensor probably isn't much good either. Dr.ATV has the full set for a decent price, says it fits an '91 XR80, but they look the same. http://www.dratv.com/poinandconk0.html
I find it odd that these bikes didn't switch over to electronic ignition until '93 I think, at least somewhere around there, and the Honda 110's switched over in the early '80's.

Edit: bought a set off ebay I found cheaper. Dr.ATV wanted $20 to ship to Canada, and I found a set on ebay for $18, and $3 shipping.

[Gearheadtom]

I've noticed one thing with the front sprocket on this bike, it seems to have a bit of play on the splines. I know it's no where near bad enough to start slipping... yet. Anyone know of a way to try and take the slop out of it? I know it having some play is going to beat the splines out quick, and I don't wan't to be left with a stripped shaft and be forced to weld it on.

[El Camexican]

I've noticed one thing with the front sprocket on this bike, it seems to have a bit of play on the splines. I know it's no where near bad enough to start slipping... yet. Anyone know of a way to try and take the slop out of it? I know it having some play is going to beat the splines out quick, and I don't wan't to be left with a stripped shaft and be forced to weld it on.

Is it the shaft or the sprocket that is loose? Would a new sprocket fix the problem? If its the shaft that is a little loose I wonder if you couldn't wrap it once with some brass shim stock and still get the sprocket over it? Don't weld anything, it would crack if you did.

[Gearheadtom]

Sprocket is loose on the shaft. Looks like the shaft splines have most of the wear. Don't think I could get the shim stock to work, I think it would build the diameter of the shaft up to much. The play is coming from spines being worn narrow. I might try shiming the sprocket down further onto the shaft to get it onto the better splines, but I don't know if there enought room to do that and have the chain clear the case.

I don't like this style sprocket set-up, there's no good way to tighten the sprocket onto the shaft to take the spline beating play out of it. It's basicaly like taking a set rear hubs, and just putting a pin through the axel where the nut would be. Sure it holds it together, but it doesn't tighten it up.

[80's atcdude]

Nice find, Those run good and make fun play bikes, I got a 77, XR75 (same bike frame and wheels) and its looks a little rough but starts on the first kick usually. I had to get new fenders, tires, clutch cable and seat cover for it when i got mine. But was worth it.

[Gearheadtom]

I need your guys help on this thing now. I'm having trouble trying to get it to rev. I can get the revs just starting to come up, but at about 1/8 - 1/4 throttle it starts sputtering (sounds like a 2 stroke sputter/poping sound), and kinda sounds like it's sputtering rich, but it's hard to tell.
Here's some more info on what's been done:
Stock filter and air box
New points and condensor installed and static timed (using a meter to see when the points open and the marks line up)
Carb cleaned and played with the float level. Anyone know the proper float setting, an how to properly set it?
New plug
Valve gap set to spec.
Valve timing checked, and is good

I can't get a compression test, I don't have the adapter for the small 10mm plug size with my tester.

Anyone have any suggestions?

[beets442]

Did you get it to run right?I have a 78' XR75. Sounds like you have it close. With that popping sound,it might be sucking air in somewhere. Have you tried to spray cleaner around the carb while it is running. Motor will sputter if there is a leak.
Sorry if you already know this>I tune my carb by getting it to idle and then turn my airscrew in til the rpms start to drop and then back the airscrew out slowly to the highest rpm and back in an 1/8-1/4 turn--SET!. Turn your idle down to where you like it. SET. Good luck.

[Gearheadtom]

Did you get it to run right?I have a 78' XR75. Sounds like you have it close. With that popping sound,it might be sucking air in somewhere. Have you tried to spray cleaner around the carb while it is running. Motor will sputter if there is a leak.
Sorry if you already know this>I tune my carb by getting it to idle and then turn my airscrew in til the rpms start to drop and then back the airscrew out slowly to the highest rpm and back in an 1/8-1/4 turn--SET!. Turn your idle down to where you like it. SET. Good luck.

I haven't got it running right yet, but I'm pretty sure I got it figured out now. I checked for air leaks, cleaned the carb several times, checked and double checked that the new points were set perfect, but it still ran like crud. I checked spark, and noticed it would only jump an 1/8 inch with my spark tester.
I noticed the coil didn't fit the bracket right, googled the numbers on the coil, and it turns out that the coil is from a older Kawasaki quad, with CDI ignition. I'm surprised it even sparked at all. I've got a coil from ebay on it's way now.

[Gearheadtom]

I got the coil for it, and got it's running much better, revs right up and doesn't really bog anymore. Before the coil I did manage to get it kinda driveable, but bogged like hell, and wouldn't rev aboue 1/2 throttle. It moves along pretty good for a small bike. When the weather warms up, and the snow is gone I'm probably going to paint up a few parts like the tank and fenders, and I want to pretty up the cobbled exhaust.
I've got to try to tighen up that sproket too. I think I can just put in some washers on the mounting bolts to space the sproket in slightly onto less warn splines.