New mini bike project

[dlmeyer0325]

I have been looking for another project, and I found this little guy at an auction. I started bidding and another guy seemed very determined to get it. It quickly went up to $70 and I said way to much. My neighbor later helped the guy load it up, and told him that I was really wanting it. The guy said that he didn't even want the #@$% thing, he thought he was bidding on a field sprayer next to it. My neighbor snatched it up and brought it home for me. (I have to put in a little shtick in about how I love having good neighbors!) Anyways here are some pics. I got a little carried away and began taking parts off of it before taking pics. I took the head off of it and the cylinder looks brand new. The chain was rusted solid and was the only thing from keeping it turning over. Good compression. You can see where some one had a 1/2 inch galvanized pipe for an exhaust. After a little cleaning, I going to throw it back together to see if itll fire up. Ill post more pics as it progresses. Also a after looking around, I think this thing is a Alexander mini bike with a 3hp tecumseh engine.

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Update:
Finally got spark. The points were corroded and it wasn't ground properly. I used an omh meter and everything checked right, also I knew I was on the right track when I shocked myself. Degreased the engine and cleaned the carb. Here are new pics

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[dustrunner]

looks like a fun project = where were the antlers mounted ?

[mooseknuckle]

Thats awesome! Have fun with the new project. I'm hoping to pick up a mini bike in the next year or two to fix up for my son. He's only two and a half so I've got some time. Keep the pics coming as you progress.

[dlmeyer0325]

I just realized today that the motor on my troybilt tiller that blew up last year is almost exactly the same. Going to scavange parts. I'm running into a problem with removing the fly wheel. any recomendations? I don't have a fly wheel puller.

I went to get pull rope and a twist throttle today. the guy had a crotch rocket mini bike in parts. I'm debating whether to take the rims and tires off of it so I could have disc brakes instead of a masher?

[dlmeyer0325]

123456q- sheds i found last year...just happen to be layin there. maybe hood ornament for the new bike?

[barnett468]

Hello

Very archaic, I love it. I saw your photo on mini bikes" also. This guy just sold a possibly newer model show bike for only $300..00. Man I would have bought that. He may know something about yours though and might have parts you need!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Alexander-Reynolds-Easyrider-Minibike-Arco-/300835403278?ViewItem=&item=300835403278&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&nma=true&si=nrw%252F4wCQquwk9qul6dxADRrsOzI%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Some guy here named tom browning collects them he may have info and parts.

http://jleibovitch.tripod.com/id190.htm

[dlmeyer0325]

Well got the pistons cleaned and new carb on. Now I can't get any spark. I've cleaned that magneto and fly wheel. There is a ground wire that attatches to the magneto...is that normal? also when I took it off there was another wire with a stripped end and female end. not sure if it was made for a kill switch but I cant figure out where it hooked on. Any ideas why I can't get a spark? Here are some pics

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[barnett468]

Hello

This is all I have for now either contact the guy I mentioned above or one of the many mini bike forums on the net or just take it to a lawnmower repair shop and they can immediately tell you what goes where and how to check it. The condenser may be bad try it without first.

[dlmeyer0325]

thanks for the contact. I'm already oldminibikes.com but apparently this engine is not common. it the 2.5 hp version. can't find much technical data. ill try to contact tom.

[MonroeMike]

What is the model/serial number of the engine?

[barnett468]

Hello

Looks like monroemike may have something up his sleeve. I can tell you this for sure all old school mags work the same so any crusty old lawnmower repair guy can help you, the young ones probably not. It's been so many eons since I have dealt with ine i'd only be guessing other than unhooking the condenser.

[dlmeyer0325]

engine h25-25196h serial# 1215B I have found the parts diagram but no manual. Barnett468 I have a crusty old lawnmower repair guy close, I'll have to try him. Also I can't find Tom Browning on the boards.

[barnett468]

OK Here’s the deal I finally woke up [hopefully]. I do not know your level of electronic experience so bear with me.

Do you know how to use an ohm meter?

Do you know how to check continuity on the points with one?

Have you checked the condition of the contacts on the points?


TEST

Inspect the contacts on the points, they are located under the metal plate that is held down by the metal clip. How do they look? Do not clean them yet.

Check the continuity from the movable arm on the points to the base or from the back side of one contact to another, is there continuity? If not this is good go to next step but if there is then file and clean points with brake cleaner, reassemble and set gap at .018-.020 and see if you have spark, if there is no spark now remove condenser reassemble try again, if you have spark now you need a condenser if you do not have spark now you need a coil that’s it.

Next step if no continuity between points – File or sand points flat, clean with non water based brake cleaner, wipe with paper towel to remove film.

Check continuity, if yes then go to installation test above, if no go to next step.

Remove condenser wire there must be continuity now if not your points are bad.

Get new points and reinstall condenser and do installation test above.

That's it your done hopefully

[MonroeMike]

Here's some info.

http://www.sendspace.com/file/1ovt0x

Don't get fooled by the ads.

Use "Click here to start download from sendspace".

[kb0nly]

I agree with whats been posted already, i had to work on some old Tec motors like that, need to dig into the points. The points and condenser can both be replaced with common parts from other models. The last one i had to work on i bought a complete kit off ebay with the points and condenser.

[barnett468]

hello dlmeyer

I can't see the back of the coil it should have one wire only which goes to the nut as it currently is. If it has a second shorter wire that is broken or loose that one goes to ground.

[barnett468]

hello

There is a small chance you may not get spark with the condenser disconnected on your particular system. If you find you have no spark at all with the condenser disconnected you can test your original one using the following method.


Do a functional check on capacitors , or condensers if you like , using a simple analog volt meter, the old kind with a meter that has a needle. Basically, set the meter to the ohms setting and measure the resistance. For a good capacitor, the needle should jump towards zero then move towards infinity as you make contact with it. Then switch the meter leads and do it again. This time the needle should jump about twice as far. The first time you are putting a charge of 1.5 volts on the capacitor. When you reverse the leads, you are reversing the charge so the needle will jump further. One end of the capacitor must be disconnected from the circuit. If the meter has some selection, choose a high resistance range.

If the needle stops at a resistance value other than infinity, it is leaking the charge and is bad.


Condenser test forum.

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21175



The condenser needs to match the coil if replaced.


NAPA coil and condenser , 7-01634 and 7-01338

Kohler coil and condenser, 41 519 21 S and 230722S

[coolpool]

I just realized today that the motor on my troybilt tiller that blew up last year is almost exactly the same. Going to scavange parts. I'm running into a problem with removing the fly wheel. any recomendations? I don't have a fly wheel puller.

I went to get pull rope and a twist throttle today. the guy had a crotch rocket mini bike in parts. I'm debating whether to take the rims and tires off of it so I could have disc brakes instead of a masher?

Don't want to steal the thread, but an old timer told me to remove the pull start ratchet, find where the flywheel key is located and hit the side of the flywheel directly opposite of the key way with a composite hammer. Works every time for me.

[dlmeyer0325]

update on progress

[dlmeyer0325]

Finally got every thing sanded and ready for paint. Got a new chain and twist throttle and fenders. Put the engine back on and took it for a test drive hence the mud. I think it'll be some sort of blue. I'll make a new seat and then it'll be ready for sale. (after I run it up the road a few times)

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[barnett468]

Finally got every thing sanded and ready for paint. Got a new chain and twist throttle and fenders. Put the engine back on and took it for a test drive hence the mud. I think it'll be some sort of blue. I'll make a new seat and then it'll be ready for sale. (after I run it up the road a few times)

165081165082


hello

glad it runs however after i spent a while explaining how to check your ign id kinda like to know exactly what the problem was.


where did the ex pipe come from, it may cause the engine to run hot from too much back pressure.

[dlmeyer0325]

barnett-if I forgot thanks for the help before. the points were corroded and that ground wire was actualy put on for kill switch so I took it off. i used an ohm meter like you said and everything check good. so i knew it had to do with that wire. also a new plug gave me better spark. the pipe is just steel and the muffler is for a small engine. I was curious about the heat because the pipe gets extremely hot when only ran for a minute. would a straight pipe work better?

[barnett468]

Hello

Yes I specifically mentioned that was a kill wire in my previous post along with the points and other things so thanks for mentioning it.

I personally try to help others for fun but it becomes "unfun" for me at least if someone fixes their bike using my suggestions and never comes back to even say whether they fixed their bike or not so I don't know if my info was helpful and if I diagnosed their problem correctly. Knowing these things also helps others looking for answers to specific problems they have by reading these type of "repair" posts.

Now I am re-motivated to try and answer your exhaust question that I brought up to you the best I can for you but it may take me until tomorrow to do so. I won't forget about it

Thanks

[dlmeyer0325]

Again thanks for the knowledgable info. This is the first forum that I've actually posted in so I'm slowly learning the etiquette. Just found out that a coworker paints his own carts and midgets and he offered to paint it for me for a small fee. I origionally figured that I would just rattle can it and now have the paint for it. Not sure how much I want to invest in this thing if I'm just looking to sell it. Already have about $100 in it.

[barnett468]

Hello

No problem and no special etiquette required here that one wouldn't expect any where else however it does seen to get entertainingly raucus around here from time to time from what I have seen in my short tim being a "member".

I understand about the cost 100% and will suggest a cheap and simple best option for you if I can.

Do is say the bore and stroke on the motor anywhere?

Keep in mind they sold that near show quality orange show bike I posted for you on ebay for $300.00.

[barnett468]

Hello

Forgot to ask, how does it run, any lean spots, any rich spots [burbling] during acceleration?

Any pipe will run extremely hot it's not a problem.

Does it thread into the head or bolt up using a flange?

Almost all mini bike and lawnmower motors etc have a spark arrester built into the muffler which is highly restrictive but more quiet than a non spark arrester type muffler. If you want real tire burning performance then you need to find an aftermarket motorcycle muffler but you will have to drill the main jet out if it's not adjustable and it will be LOUD. Run it without your muffler for a minute to see what I mean if you want.

Since you are selling it this is what I would do. I personally would sand the exterior of the pipe until it was smooth to reduce the plumbing pipe look then when finished shaping it paint it high temp aluminum to match the muffler or high temp semi flat black.

Then I would reinstall it and mark the top of the ex pipe. remove pipe. thread it onto another 6" piece of plumbing pipe. clamp the 6" piece of pipe into the lower part of a vice [if it has round jaws below the std flat ones] with the top marks facing up. heat the pipe around 1-1 1/2 inches away from the threads on engine end of the pipe until it is nice and red. bend it up slowly until it reaches around a 30 degree angle 45 is too much. let it cool then heat it up around 8-10" from the threads and slowly make it exactly horizontal then let it cool. reinstall it on the bike [you probably have to remove the carb for this sorry], reinstall carb mark end of pipe so when your muffler is installed it will be either flush with the end of the air cleaner or just slightly beyond it by no more than 2-3". cut it off at the mark and rethread it. You can also just use a piece of pipe that will be around the right length when finished adding around an inch for the bend and thread an additional 12" piece of pipe to the muffler end for leverage. The purpose of bending the pipe is to keep the exiting ex gasses from blowing directly towards your rear fender burning the paint and also to clear the air cleaner. The reason to shorten it is to reduce back pressure thereby reducing excessive cylinder/combustion chamber heat plus it will look way cool.

You should install a new plug and check color after a high speed run, lol. to make sure it is not too lean.

Use valvoline vr1 racing oil in it or other non synthetic oil that has xtra zddp in it or you can possibly damage it.

[barnett468]

here's a stock one might hit your air cleaner.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/121062014682?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar