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Rhodeislander
03-16-2013, 06:27 PM
Ok,
Looking for some guidance. I have the dust covers off, the bearings are dust and rust. Seems like what's in the tube is a bearing race inner spacer tube and the other race.
I can't knock them out with a drift, have PBS them to death. Can they be pressed out one side, or do they each need to come out their respective side?
The spacer doesn't move much, is it captive? Any ideas on removing the rusty races?
I would like to use the deletion bushings from this website, do I use the inner tube that used to sit inside the needle bearings? Or do they just ride on the bolt.

Thanks guys
Bud

jb2wheels
03-16-2013, 10:07 PM
That tube is basically the inner race like you said. They like to seize to the bearings. Save it if you can.

The bearings have to come out their own sider - there's a stop and they can't be pressed through.

I had a real hard time getting the bearings out. I totally destroyed them and ended up caving in the cage/outer race with punches and chisels to get them out. That job sucked.

A blind bearing puller is probably the right tool for this but I'm too cheap for it. Maybe that's the root of the problem...
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

I don't know anything about the plastic bearings other than I've heard great things about them.

3wheelerfan1991
03-17-2013, 10:46 PM
I had this same issue. No matter of pounding, penetrating lube will make them move. I ended up cutting into the outer race with a dremel and then it loosened up with a hammer, maybe not the best way but hey, it got the bearing out. I wish i had pictures of my swingarm bearings. They were powdery rust also.

yaegerb
03-17-2013, 11:43 PM
Invest in a blind hole bearing puller. I purchased a tusk mfg. model from rocky mountain atv and I will never go back to a punch and hammer. I also purchased the delrin bushings from the 3ww store and they work great. The only piece you save from the OEM parts is the swingarm bolt. The bushings take the place of everything else. Also, you may have to shave the bushings down to fit. They were a bit fat for me.

CodyRosa
03-18-2013, 01:31 AM
When you put the new bearings in, I did something real easy. First put some shims(wood shims you use on door frames, you can use 2x4) and hit the bearing until it went in just enough (until i couldn't get it in anymore, Flush with the swingarm) then I put my long motor mount through with some washers(washer was exact same size as bearing) over the end of the bearings and just kept tightening it. Home made press. If my instruction are not clear enough you should be able to find this method online or I could take a picture if you'd like.

Rhodeislander
03-18-2013, 08:53 PM
Hi guys,
Thanks for the replies. I cannot see the needles in the bearings, just rust. I hit the edge of the race with a small cold chisel and it just knocks the edge off. Im left with the outer shell of the race welded with rust to the tube/carrier. Its very bad, i'm going to bring to a machine shop to see if it can be drilled165480 out for the delrin bearings. What i.d. am I looking for the housing to be drilled to?

yaegerb
03-18-2013, 09:08 PM
Do you have a dremel? A dremel with a cutoff wheel would make quick work of that. If you don't have a dremel you could try the heat and beat method. Have you tried to heat the housing?

Don't drill the housing. The delrin bushings use an interference fit. If you drill larger you will ruin the swingarm for OEM hardware or the delrin bushings

Rhodeislander
03-19-2013, 09:17 AM
Use the cutoff wheel to cut an angle cut sort of? Hmm, maybe.

yaegerb
03-19-2013, 09:30 AM
hold the dremel perpendicular to the bearing and cut a notch into the bearing race. Then you can use a punch to separate the race from the housing. You can also use a pair of needle nose to pull and pry the race out. The dremel is how I got the pivot bearing races out that were in my westcoast.