Kroil Questions

[MRSOUND]

So after a couple of weeks of PB Blaster soakings and still not loosening the brake drum on the 200es I'm parting, I broke down a bought a pair of areosal cans of Kroil. Must be some potent stuff as it even comes with a MSDS! My questions begin with is it a less is more type of thing or a total saturation? How long do you guys normally let it season until you atempt to remove the part. I realize different amounts and times for different scenerios but generally as a norm what do you do? By the way I used this google deal which I think someone had posted previously.
http://www.kanolabs.com/google/ Any feedback is greatly appreciated!

[redsox]

I also bought on the advise of this site. have had it for a few months and love the stuff. i soaked exhaust bolts for two days and they came off smoooooooooth. i even like the smell of the stuff.

[atc007]

LMK how she works on PA rust Mike ! I WILL be waiting ! Soak her. And report back ! Good luck ! You DID take the oring out from under the drum right? That little sob will cost you hours if swedged into the splines between the axle and drum!!

[fastatc70]

I get the stuff from work. I love it! It smells ok and works fantastic. I haven't been a big fan of pb blaster. Do not use pb blaster on bronze bushing or oil lite bearings. They seize in a couple of hours of running. Not a problem with wd-40 or kroil.

There is two types of kroil.
Penatroil and airokroil it's spelled something like that they both work very good.

[fastatc70]

My mistake not the same company but works just as good. Smells the same!168160

[MRSOUND]

LMK how she works on PA rust Mike ! I WILL be waiting ! Soak her. And report back ! Good luck ! You DID take the oring out from under the drum right? That little sob will cost you hours if swedged into the splines between the axle and drum!!
Like redsox I've heard some many raves on here I figured I 'd give it a shot. I was frustrated because I had inquires about the axle and the rear and just couldn't get that dang drum to let loose. I try to very prompt on getting back to folks and getting parts out asap. And yes o-ring is off. It actually stuck to the outer cover and yes it was a pain in the arse to get out too. It was like getting gum off the bottom of your shoe. Oddly once I got the o-ring seperated it was still whole and did'n even tear? Anyway, I will defintely let you know how i make out.

[oldtime3wheeler]

Kroil works awesome. I have used it for years now. Dont even go near wd-40 or pb blaster.

[MRSOUND]

So still the questions lingers......Do you completely soak with this stuff or use just enough to for it to get in there. Claim is it penetrates and forms micro beads like "ball bearings" that allow things to seperate.
To soak or not to soak that is the question :)

[90nut]

been using kroil now for about 2 years. Found that you don't need to soak the parts like i did with PB Blaster. I usually do a few light squirts on the part, (enough to tell it has been hit with the kroil.) Most recently I had a froze up bolt on my bronco, was a 5/8" bolt holding the pan hard bar to the front axle housing. Tried heating it with my torch etc with no luck. Next day hit with a light shot of kroil every half hr or so, just enough to tell I was getting the part "wet" about four rounds of that and I gave the bolt a couple solid hits and out she came/ Long story short, no need to drench the part in it, just give her a little squirts every so often. should be pleased with the results.

[CRAZY70MAN]

LMK how she works on PA rust Mike ! I WILL be waiting ! Soak her. And report back ! Good luck ! You DID take the oring out from under the drum right? That little sob will cost you hours if swedged into the splines between the axle and drum!!

x2 on that rubber o-ring Bill..... I just ran into that on a 110 I was putting brakes on. It basically was not coming out with that oring on. I have yet to try the kroil but think I may from the reviews here. I still use the old home made acetone/trannyfluid mix.Looks like this kroil really works though huh???

[88 Turbo Coupe]

I bought a 5 gal pail a bunch of years ago thinking it was the shizzle when they advertized on TV. Din't work for me. Emailed the compsany with my concern and never got back to me. I never really had any faith in pen. oil. I've applied it for days on rusted hardware and never worked. Heat or air is the best. BTW when I got the bolt or nut lose i never seen any oil on the threads.

[MRSOUND]

been using kroil now for about 2 years. Found that you don't need to soak the parts like i did with PB Blaster. I usually do a few light squirts on the part, (enough to tell it has been hit with the kroil.) MLong story short, no need to drench the part in it, just give her a little squirts every so often. should be pleased with the results.
That's what I've done so far. 3 hits last night making sure I got all the way around the splines. Crossing my fingers.

[90nut]

hope it works for ya. I'm sold on the stuff. It's the oil that kreeps!

[Scootertrash]

That's what I've done so far. 3 hits last night making sure I got all the way around the splines. Crossing my fingers.

That's the method I use MRSOUND. If I can tip the part so the kroil will "run into" the area to be broke free I do that too, only because I figure every little trick helps.

I've been using Kroil for years and it's always worked well for me. For stubborn parts, I do like you are doing and be patient and let the Kroil work. Like everything else, I'm sure Kroil has it's limitations, but I have a can of PB Blaster I bought 10 years ago that I just found in the back of my shop cabinet.

[MRSOUND]

That's the method I use MRSOUND. If I can tip the part so the kroil will "run into" the area to be broke free I do that too, only because I figure every little trick helps.
Yea, I currently have the axle/rear end leaning against my truck ramps so it will hopefully seep in. After thinking about it I'm going to spray the rest of the splines it needs to slide over tonight after work. My luck it will only move an 1/8" were I hit with the Kroil and I'll be stuck again.

[Scootertrash]

Here is another option for pulling on the drum. One of the guys over on .org had the drum on a 185S that was stubborn. He modified a puller so the claws would reach the drum.

Here is a link to the thread, there is a pic on page 2:

http://www.3wheeler.org/vb/showthread.php?49460-1983-honda-185S-rear-brake-drum-STUCK!!!/page2


Here is the pic:

http://www.3wheeler.org/vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=36517&d=1362532599

I've put pressure on stubborn items I've been trying to pull, then apply heat with a Mapp torch or an Oxy acetylene torch. Sometimes the combo of pulling pressure and heat will help break stuff loose. If you go with the modded puller try pulling without heat first.

[MRSOUND]

I like the puller idea. Will need to look and see if there is enough clearance to get the fingers through the holes. The cup of the drum faces out out on these and has a housing around it. Not sure of the dimension between the outside of the drum to the inside of the housing. Another thing to check after work tonight.

[ratvespa]

here is what ive found to be the hot ticket, been using the 50 50 mix with good results. granted I live in the desert so rust aint huge here, but it seems to work better for really stubborn stuff.

"Penetrating Oils


Machinist's Workshop Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that I found very interesting.

Some of you might appreciate this.

The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.


They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used .................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ...................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ................127 pounds
Kano Kroil ....................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix…..........53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.

Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix. "

[88 Turbo Coupe]

I'm sold on it. Kroil sucks

[WIkid500]

Get the torch out. Really all these oils are great and help for the little things but when it comes to real stuck things like swing arm bolts heat is the key. Drums and splines are perfect candidates for heat, a block of wood, and a BFH.

[HappyTrail]

I keep kroil around been using it for years but I've seen it meet it's match. I've found that Gibbs dissolves rust noticeably better. Gibbs removes rust from chrome easier and faster also. Haven't resorted to mixing acetone and tranny fluid in awhile.

[tri again]

This could be a huge joke but an old farmer, airplane mech said that
oil of wintergreen actually shrinks rust particles.

[MRSOUND]

Well been soaking it for couple of days but have not been able to break it loose. So I went to harbor freight and and bought the puller set that was in the thread provide by scooter. Went to the hardware store and bought the flat stock as well. Just got to fab it up and see what happens. Here's a pic of why this is more difficult than your standard 200 or 185 with the drum inside a housing. no where to beat on the thing to help break it loose. Never messed with heat but if this don't work I guess I'll be buying a cheap torch somewhere (should have checked at harbor freight while I was there:rolleyes:)
168360

[atc007]

That's actually an optimum set up for a press Mike. So,,kroil doesn't work miracles,big surprise. Heat and beat is the only answer other than a press. WHich is where I would be headed. If not,you'll ahve to get a big bulls dick{{ Punch}. Slam around the inside carefully to open up some pores for penetrant and heat to work,it will come off,but again. I would be headed to a press. Nice guy will only charge ya $10 or so,it will either break or slide right out. Either way,it's a done deal :)

[MRSOUND]

I have not thrown in the towel on the Kroil just yet Bill. The problem with this particular application is there is no leverage or hammer points. Is the small hand held propane torches adequate enough to get the parts expanded? something like this: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Worthington-Pro-Grade-Self-Igniting-Torch-Kit/17128613 . So from what your saying with using a press, if it is freed up enough I should be able to cover the end of the axle and knock it thru the drum and out the rear housing. Basically the same as concept as the press without the leverage or hydraulic advantage.

[coolpool]

Looks like you took a pic of my seized drum, not one of Honda's best ideas. I don't have my manual in front of me but does the axle come out from the right? I would want to be 100% sure before I start banging or pressing on the axle. I worried about the heat distorting the aluminum part of the drum so I just left my frozen drum on there. Watching your progress closely pilgrim.

[atc007]

That torch would do. It will get it red hot. I can't see if your ring is in or anything holding the axle from going down through? If not,yes,it will just press through.

[MRSOUND]

So I built this extended puller. Extenders are 1/8 X 3/4 X 17. Had to be longer than the one in the thread scooter led me to due to the inverted drum and not sure axle lengths are different between the machine. First attempt I used the largest puller with the medium fingers. I couldn't get the large ones angled enough to get them in the holes in the drum. Epic fail!! Harbor freight quality....broke a finger off and drum didn't budge. Now i got large fingers on. I had to attach them to the extenders, hook them into the drum holes, then attach the other end of the extenders to the puller. got it nice and tight but not budging with signifacant force. Going to get a torch and heat it before I try anymore pressure. Was hoping for a better outcome. Won't be today anymore as my frusttation level with this is through the roof & wal-mart is 40 minute drive so I'm done for today. I'll update again when I get some heat on it. (anyone wanna buy a complete rear end with axle?) :naughty:So far a $35 investment in pullers and steel has yeilded only drinking another beer.:beer
168393168394168395

[big yeller]

Kroil is awesome works great can get some really stuck on stuff off...it's also about the best gun cleaner I found. Clean your barrel with your favorite and then clean it with kroil and you will get more out of it. Kroil doesn't break it free on your trike its time to get the torch out.

[Scootertrash]

Hopefully the heat will do the trick. I typically use Mapp gas (The yellow tank instead of the blue propane tank) Mapp gas will get hotter. Of course, if you can find someone with an oxy-actylene set up that would be perfect. That axle is gonna pull some of the heat from the drum for bit.

[ColtonGG33]

I must be the only one on here that has never heard of kroil? I always just use wd40 and once I've used pb blaster, I might have to buy me a can of that stuff