My project

[tbus93]

undefined] just recently joined the trike Mania I got the bike for 1300 (got hosed more wrong found out after buying) I currently have 1300 in the bike it runs good but has a leak at the crank case gasket I want to put a big bore on it what do you guys think?

[dustrunner]

welcome, looks pretty good 2 me...it's a bummer when ya can't find the blem's in their driveway huh....

[tbus93]

Carrier bearing was almost gone new forks carb needs rebuilt or new one doesn't allow it to idle Paul turner pipe has a small crack and hole in it

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Well, it still looks like you have a good starting point to build a really nice R.

But a bit of advice.... Before you go upgrading to a big bore, you will want to do a full tear-down and inspect and freshen up. New crank bearings and rebuilding the counterbalancer are a must for such a build. Plus, unless you plan on just going 310 or bolt-on 330 you will have to tear it all down anyway to send the bare case halves to a builder to be bored for the big bore cylinder.

Something else that is highly recommended is to replace the old cast counterbalancer carrier with a new billet unit. (that is if it hasn't already been replaced).. The reason for this is that the 27 year old cast CB carrier gets fatigued with age and use and can crack and/or break apart. This will cause major damage to your bottom end.

Another good thing to do to ensure a reliable big bore is to have your crank rebuilt. And have it rebuilt with either an OEM rod, or a Hot Rods rod.

Other things to inspect for wear and to make sure are in good working order is the transmission and clutch. You don't really need any special heavy duty transmission components for most big bores (under 75hp ballpark), but you want it to be in good serviceable condition to handle the extra power you will be putting to it. It may also be prudent to have all the transmission bearings replaced if you have any doubt as to their condition and serviceability...

I know it seems like alot, just giving you the best advice I can based on personal experience and advice from some of the best 250r builders in the business, IE shops and other owners who have been around the block...

Welcome aboard!! :beer

[tbus93]

I have a guy I plan on building my motor I just want to do the 330 esr kit and have him port it i hear esr port jobs are wack thanks for the heads up on the counter balancer can't decide if I want to go with a long rod for a stroker yet want it to be bbad

[pantera1975]

I went with a 330 esr top end and a 88-89 long rod style hotrod crank. That way if needed I can put on my original top end if I blow it. I had BDT motor sports do 2 of my motors. Complete rebuild inside and out.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

The long rod does not make it a stroker... To be a stroker, you have to run a stroked crank.. That is a crankshaft that has been modified to increase stroke by re-locating the crank pin farther out on the radius of the crank tins.


And if you run a plus size stroker crank, you MUST have the cylinder ported for the stroker crank and run a spacer.

Word of warning because I've been there.. Pretty much all of the heads that come with pretty much all of the big bore cyls have straight up spark plug orientation ad opposed to the stock head where the plug is angled slightly. With the ATC's, particularly the '85 there is little clearance between the spark plug and a part of the frame. You will have to run shorty plugs, or get the smallest, most compact sparkplug cap you can find. Running the stroker and spacer plate will add to this issue. Don't get me wrong, it is workable.. It can just be a bit of a pain finding that perfect sparkplug cap that allows you relatively easy removal and re-installation of the plug cap. I went that route as opposed to the more expensive and less abundantly available shorty sparkplugs.

[tbus93]

My uncle has a stroker 310 big bore trx 250r I love the pull that thing has not 100% sure what I want to do yet trying to slow down my spend rate right now even debated the 500r

[pantera1975]

Either way I know where you can get motor matching big bore numbers for your ATC:naughty:

[tbus93]

Want to get new shrouds before I put decals on them old maier shrouds are ugly

[JasonB]

Welcome to the boards, theres some great info in here, thank for clearing a lot if that up for him ride red 250r!! I think the price wasn't too bad, sucks about the leak but good job catching it before you ran it lean and burned up. I love my 310esr motor but have also heard great things about bdt

[tbus93]

I liked the price when I bought didn't expect to be putting a new carrier bearing 165 moose racing and 265 on forks there polished and look great sucks I have to replace my Paul turner pipe going to buy my uncles fmf pipe for now until I build my big bore then figure out what I like just have to top off the tranny fluid before I ride it everytime no big deal just Quaker state 10w 40

[tbus93]

Also doesn't leak while I ride just if it sits for awhile

[JasonB]

Don't know if I missed it but what's wrong with the Paul turner? Would never replace anything but a stock pipe with an FMF lol

[tbus93]

The pipe has a crack in about 2 inches long right after the first bend of the pipe and a 1/4 inch hole I came off a jump pretty hard and think I bottomed the bike out and caused it don't know if it can be fixed I hate fmf but a new pt pipe is running about 400 new not looking to put something on until after a rebuild

[tbus93]

I like the pipe on your 310r who built it

[JasonB]

Pm me if you want to get rid of it lol

Nos_350x sells them great quality etc, I tink it was 500$ shipped for the pipe and silencer

[tbus93]

I love My pipe I hope it can be repaired

[tbus93]

Also I'm having a problem with my carb it's just the stock 34mm pj I can't adjust the idle so without a hand on the throttle the bike just dies I'm curious how to fix this until I get a 38mm pwk on a big bore happened after I bought the bike

[RIDE-RED 250r]

I had trouble with the PJ carb myself when I was helping my cousin get his TRX running after a resto-mod. On the PJ carb, idle speed is adjusted by turning the choke knob. Key word being "turning" and opposed to lifting up for turning on the choke.

If you can't get it to idle by adjusting the idle speed and idle mixture screw, that usually indicates you are too rich on your pilot jet IF the carb is clean, clear and in good working order.

Oh, and the PWK38/PWK38 Airstryker is a GREAT upgrade to even a stock 250r engine. Money well spent. And carbs do get worn... The slide and slide housing can wear over time causing jetting problems that can have you chasing your tail.

Chances are, that PJ carb on your R is older than probably half of the members on the board! :D Something to consider....

[tbus93]

I've turned it and it makes no difference the carb is probably due for a rebuild I was just curious I know when I go big bore that I will need a new carb I know a 38mm won't run very well on a stock cylinder

[RIDE-RED 250r]

I can tell you from experience, the 38 runs great on a stock cylinder, especially when you run it in conjunction with the other usual bolt-on goodies like a good pipe, better air filter and a set of quality reeds. That PT pipe you have will LOVE working with a 38!

What is now my 350 big bore, used to be a stock cyl, bored .050, with a good reedblock, FMF Fatty, K&N with Outerwears and the pipe connecting the airbox to the mainframe backbone removed. It ran REALLY good! I'm not saying it was some freak of nature giant killer, but it ran VERY well. Don't let your stock cyl dissuade you from getting a good 38 if you have the means....

[tbus93]

Hmm didnt know that I was told one time it doesn't run right but my 250r already has aftermarket boyeson rad valve reeds with a spacer and I put a k&n filter with the esr eliminator kit ( or supposebly esr free anyway)

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Mine ran just fine, no trouble at all. And it was a good kick in the pants for performance compared to the old PE (roundslide) that was on it before the 38 Airstryker. Very noticeable difference in the seat of the pants!

And I'm not the only one to have done that, not by a long shot....

[tbus93]

Thanks for the advice will probably call my parts supplyer see if he can order me one tomorrow

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Very good Sir!

Keep us posted on your progress... Pics are always welcome too! :beer

[tbus93]

168174168175168176168177168178168179 all the photos I have of it right now personally couldn't stand the black seat had to get me a royal blue oem seat and that is the same gas tank

[JasonB]

good looking machine, great potential for a few clean up items to make it really shine! Im curious about who made the swinger too.

anyways, i found this thread extremely helpful. Its about jetting and it breaks down how to basically put a carb on your bike and jet it by listenning to your engine's revs etc. Simply put it is awesome!
http://www.bannedcr500riders.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=203&sid=0d3bdaf2ca684e366927710244b7ba99

cr500 boards, but its what I am using to become better educated about jetting. Theres a section in there at the top about pilot jetting that makes so much sense.

And like Ride Red 250r said, a 38mm carb would be just fine on your machine.

[tbus93]

The swinger is custom 6 over from a custom machine shop there logo is really worn but I can make out machine shop I got a 39mm carb I'm looking to maybe start the rebuild now how hard is it to install a case gasket myself I'm kind of a do it yourself kind of person

[RIDE-RED 250r]

You will need a proper flywheel puller and a good manual.

I'm not going to post a step by step on how to tear down a complete engine, and I don't think anyone else will either.. ;)

If you are mechanically inclined, have basic hand tools (and a couple special tools), a good manual, and can follow step by step instructions from a manual, doing a complete tear down and rebuild is a doable job.

[tbus93]

Don't have an owners manual should probably order one didnt expect a step by step nobody got time to do that

[tbus93]

Update from my project got my case clutch cover stator cover gaskets new crank bearings ordered esr 310 big bore and billet flange 39mm pwk carb and all new seals kit on order ready to start my rebuild to bad I have drill this weekend would knocker out then

[weedan01]

You might be able to braze the pipe up.

[tbus93]

168396168397168398 motor finally gave found out its got a hot rods crank in it but its a short rod so gonna replace that when the person before me rebuilt the motor something wasn't done right wasn't any dowds on the stud and it was ported

[weedan01]

That's quite an ugly piston

[tbus93]

Very cylinder walls weren't destroyed at all crankshaft is free

[yaegerb]

I've turned it and it makes no difference the carb is probably due for a rebuild I was just curious I know when I go big bore that I will need a new carb I know a 38mm won't run very well on a stock cylinder

FYI....I have a stock cylinder, no porting and an FMF fatty pipe. Just bought the 38 PWK A/S and it runs perfect

[tbus93]

Good to hear personally I know now it wouldn't have made a difference on mine was a matter of time before it blew up

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Yeah that's for sure!

If you haven't done it yet, I would still highly recommend getting your CB rebuilt and replace the CB carrier with a new billet unit...Would be a heck of a bad thing to do all the work you are and run the risk of having the CB or CB carrier let go on ya!

[tbus93]

I haven't started tearing in the motor I'm kind of sketchy about doing it now just because piston shattered and I want to have the crank rebuilt I want a long rod in it it's got a hot rods crank with short rod currently I will look into a cb and definitely on the billet carrier my buddy's 250r ha his break 3 months ago and he's got to have his cases hogged out now

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Just curious, why do you want to go long rod??

[tbus93]

I like the smoothness of my uncles long rod 310 big bore

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Well, there could be something to that. I can't say either way as I have never ridden an R with the long rod setup.

But I will say this, there are plenty of other things that could be worn and make an engine not seem to be as smooth.

But, it's all up to you :)

Make sure and post some build pics! :)

[tbus93]

I don't know if ill do the rebuild an pay a pro I would love to but with the piston shattering like it did I'm worried about damage in the case i ordered a manual before it blew up I did pull off the clutch cover though and all that seemed good

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Piston debris won't be present in the clutch/kickstart/CB (behind the clutch cover) area unless there is catastrophic crankcase damage.

If you end up doing the work yourself, you will get to know your engine very well, and that's a good thing. :)

[tbus93]

168423 it appears as if the rod was rubbing the case and when it shattered the piston it locked the motor with a little spinning of the flywheel I got the big chunks out I wasn't sure if when it locked up if a sudden jolt could of broke any teeth off the counter balancer I was only doin about 20 mph when it happened

[yaegerb]

I am with Joe on this one. IMO, I would call an engine builder and take some time to run through exactly what you want power characteristics wise and then go from there. It would be worth your time to call BDT, ESR or LED, etc. to discuss your options. You can get a "smooth" power characteristic from a standard or long rod.

[tbus93]

Thanks for the advice I do plan on giving a phone call to my local engine builder to see his input I trust him with anything to deal with my motor he's built some wild 250rs and banshees

[tbus93]

Dropped my motor off to get rebuilt around 250-300 bucks for tear down install and reassembly decided if my crank is still in tact I'm staying with the short rod don't really want to spend 300 on a new crank If that ones still Prestine

[tbus93]

I know I havent updated in a couple months but i just got word from guy doing my rebuild that there is some cracks inside the crankcase and about a dime sized hole was punctured through on the right side case I dont remember pulling a piece of that out of the motor when I freed it up other then shattered pieces of piston

[deuce228]

Bummer! What's next?

[tbus93]

the guy building my motor is going to try and weld inside the cases first i doubt he can fill the hole so I will most likely watch ebay I know a few 250r guys around here that might have some cases I could buy and if all else fails at least ESR sells new case halves for $500 a set

[tbus93]

Updated Purchased a set of Ebay Cases hoping to get on with my motor being built Ready to ride again with a 310 big bore in the frame rails

[Glen]

good luck!

[tbus93]

purchased all these on ebay for a pretty resonable price, the trx head will be for sale as i will not need it, but not gonna complain just a little add on to my build also purchased another PT pipe from ebay that was in Great condition the only thing is its not that pretty chrome like my old one anyone know what it would cost to have it chromed, turned out my shift shaft was also slightly bent I must of abused the heck out of this trike motor should be done within a week or two just got my newer center cases up to my guy
174049 174054

[3forever]

nice bike looks good

[tbus93]

Thanks ill post more pics once I get my motor back and put it back together, I plan on powdercoating the frame and swinger and doing some chroming this winter, anyone know a place around Kansas City or st joe that does chroming I have to get my headpipe done

[tbus93]

17767717767817767917768017768117768217768317768417 7685177686177687 Got it all put back together decided to put my CT built motor in it