My first '85 250r

[Auto_Demon]

I just purchased a 1985 atc 250r for $1300, in good condition, has original taillight, runs shortly but dies, guy said he put a new carb on it and never had time to adjust it, back brakes are locking up i belive, he just put new brake pads on so they could just need to be worn down a little, brand new front and rear maier plastics, front headlight bezzel is broken. Pictures to follow. if anyone has any advice it would be greatly appreciated.

[yaegerb]

What model/size is the carb? Have you performed a compression check? I would also ensure that your tank is free of sediment/junk and that fuel is flowing to the carb freely. Also check that the bowl is filling up and that the jets are clean.

[Auto_Demon]

he said it was the same size, not sure of the brand, not a keihn. i just got it unloaded and have done nothing to it, ill go through the carb tomorrow

[yaegerb]

he said it was the same size, not sure of the brand, not a keihn. i just got it unloaded and have done nothing to it, ill go through the carb tomorrow

If you have a compression tester, I would check the compression while you are fiddling with the carb. Let us know what you find out.

[Auto_Demon]

172443 this is the only picture i have of it right now

[Auto_Demon]

ya i will definitely check the compression tomorrow, all keep you posted

[Auto_Demon]

ive noticed that the fuel line from the fuel valve to the carb is really long, probably like a foot long, would this affect how much fuel its getting or the strength of the flow?

[jb2wheels]

... back brakes are locking up i belive, he just put new brake pads on so they could just need to be worn down a little, ...

Looks like a great trike!

If the brakes are locking up, there is a problem. Could be the caliper needs a rebuild - the seals get old/distorted and won't let the piston(s) retract. Or the master needs a rebuild or at least a teardown and cleaning.

[yamaha225dr]

The length of your fuel line will not affect anything as long as it's not kinked, I would shorten it though.

[Auto_Demon]

Heres the latest: took the carb off and it pissed brown fuel, couldnt get the bowl cuz of 2 screws being stripped and stuck in there good, main jet was clogged to trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro so i cleaned that, changed the oil which looked like it had water in it, still had the original spark plug in it haha

[yamaha225dr]

You should be able to get those screws off with a pair of pliers or get a Dremel and cut a line in the screw heads for a flat headed screwdriver to fit. I have used both techniques with success. Be sure to flush your oil a few times to get any left over water out.

[D-dub]

Looks good! Id definitely trim that hose down and run it straight to the carb.

[Auto_Demon]

Compression is at 170 psi, its running really rich at the moment cuz the guy put 20:1 mix in it

[Auto_Demon]

172457 here is a better and bigger picture

[Auto_Demon]

Looks like a great trike!

If the brakes are locking up, there is a problem. Could be the caliper needs a rebuild - the seals get old/distorted and won't let the piston(s) retract. Or the master needs a rebuild or at least a teardown and cleaning.

took it for a rip and the brakes are loosening up, just needed to be broken in thats all. the front brake even works!

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Compression is at 170 psi, its running really rich at the moment cuz the guy put 20:1 mix in it

OK at the risk of starting a huge oil ratio debate.....

Fuel/oil ratio:

First, decide on what ratio you want to run and then jet your carb to that ratio and stick with it. Personally, I run 32:1 based on the recommendation of several reputable people and builders.

Secondly, playing with fuel/oil ratio to try to address a jetting issue is a trip around Robin Hood's barn that will leave you unsuccessful in the end. Say you have a carb dialed in perfectly for 32:1 fuel/oil ratio. You then decide you want to "richen" it up and switch to 20:1. In reality, you are actually LEANING your fuel/AIR ratio for combustion. Oil in your premix displaces fuel. And when you increase the amount of oil in your fuel/oil premix you are actually LEANING your fuel/air mixture for combustion. The amount of oil in your premix is purely for bottom end and cylinder wall lubrication.

So again, do a little research and decide on what type of oil and at what ratio you want to run and then dial in your jetting to that setup and stick to it.

[Auto_Demon]

Took it on its maiden voyage tonight, still a bit rich, but it rips, fastest atv ive driven!

[loshe191]

Nice looking R good luck with it .:cool:

[Auto_Demon]

So i found out today that i need fork seals and probably nee springs, the right fork is drenched in oil and oil is running down the fork, i dont know how complicated it will be but i guess ill cross that bridge when we get there

[KI4UJO]

Looks good.
Do I see trailpros?

[JasonB]

fork rebuilds arent too bad at all, theres plenty of info around here on how to do it right without messing up the new seals durring install etc. good looking bike, prob going to suggest dicthin the trail pro's lol other wise it sounds like you are off to a great start!

[Auto_Demon]

Yes those are trail pros, but i have to ask, why does everyone hate trail pros?

[Eric250R]

Yes those are trail pros, but i have to ask, why does everyone hate trail pros?

Because they're horrible tires, and they weigh a ton. Unless you want to change rear bearings often I would find a nice set of 20 inch rears.

[KI4UJO]

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/68733-Carlisle-Trail-Pro-Tires

This outlines the hatrid for the humble trailpro. Basically, they're hard, don't corner well, and in my mind look like they were designed by a 3 year old.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

It's the tire everybody loves to hate! :beer


But admittedly, I would use them on something like my 200es.. On a sport/race model??? Not a chance!

[Auto_Demon]

172544 so heres what im dealing with, the fuel line is so big it has to curve behind but im worried cuz its almost touching the cylinder and im wondering if it will eventually melt, but the gas shutoff valve doesnt have a 90 degree fitting on it so if i were to shorten it, it would kink the hose at the valve. and if i make it a bit longer but still trim it, its in an "S" shape. another thing, the thing wont idle. the idle adjustment is the choke plunger, you unscrew the choke plunger to make it idle better but to have it idle good the plunger is all the way out and basically the choke is on. I dont know what to do, id like to have it idle but im not going to bother if it means the choke is always on, o and btw i dont need the choke to start it, dont know if thats normal or not, fire up on the second kick everytime.

[Auto_Demon]

172545 172546 172547 172548 172549 172550 pictures from a ride with 59GMC last night

[RIDE-RED 250r]

I'm not sure what that carb is, never seen one. Almost looks like a chinese knock-off of a Keihin.....

I would ditch it and get a Keihin PWK on there... Any size from 36 to 38mm...

A 36 would be good because it will readily fit in the OEM intake boot. Plus the PWK 36's can be found in excellent shape for about $100, half the cost of a new 38PWK/AS....

I have a PWK36 on my 250 and love it.


Now, I don't like the way that fuel line is set up either... But if your cylinder gets hot enough to melt the fuel line I would think you would have bigger problems on your hands than a melted fuel line. But just the same, I would change it.....

[Auto_Demon]

I'm not sure what that carb is, never seen one. Almost looks like a chinese knock-off of a Keihin.....

I would ditch it and get a Keihin PWK on there... Any size from 36 to 38mm...

A 36 would be good because it will readily fit in the OEM intake boot. Plus the PWK 36's can be found in excellent shape for about $100, half the cost of a new 38PWK/AS....

I have a PWK36 on my 250 and love it.

ya maybe in time, i just finished tunning this one and i got where i want, its just the idle that pissing me off but its not a huge deal

[RIDE-RED 250r]

ya maybe in time, i just finished tunning this one and i got where i want, its just the idle that pissing me off but its not a huge deal

Something isn't right if you have to turn your choke/idle knob all the way out to get it to idle though.....

[Auto_Demon]

ya, i turned it all the way down for now

[yaegerb]

I have no idea what that carb is. As already suggested, ditch it for a 38mm pwk a/s. You can find them on ebay with a throttle cable for 260.00 shipped. It will be the best money you spend in my opinion and that carb can handle a good port job or bigger cylinder in the future. Also, cut that fuel line down. Run it direct from the bottom of the petcock to the fuel inlet on the carb....way to much hose.

[Auto_Demon]

Also, cut that fuel line down. Run it direct from the bottom of the petcock to the fuel inlet on the carb....way to much hose.

Ya i want to, but like i said in my previous post im in a bit of a conundrum

[Bren_downe]

I would ditch that hose altogether if I was you. Go to your local hardware store and pick up some vinyl? (I think) tubing. It's like $.20 a foot. Cut to length, heat the ends and plug 'em on! Cheap fix and looks good. I like being able to see the fuel, if there's crud or whatever. That hose looks like overkill IMO

[yaegerb]

something isn't right if you have to turn your choke/idle knob all the way out to get it to idle though.....

x 2..........

[rizz1135]

I would suggest fixing your rear brake problem very soon too. If your back brakes are sticking a little it is not from new pads that need to be worn down. You probably need a caliper rebuild (new seals) and check the motion of the brake pedal pivot at the frame. I would remove the brake pedal and make sure that the master cylinder operates freely and that the pivot is clean and lubricated. Having your rear brakes lock up while out on the trails is pretty rough; if they lock up bad enough you have to essentially ride back to you truck with the rear brakes on. All the rear brake components get cooked and everything will be that much harder to take apart. I would attend to that ASAP. Had that issue with my '84 R a year or so ago and had to ride about 2 or 3 miles back with the rear brakes locked up.

[Marty]

Just so you know if you do decide one day and buy a 38A/S. Yes they are so much better than any stock carb and dyno results did yield a difference on my 1988 TRX 250R. But what most do not know and especially guys who are on their first ATC or TRX 250r when you buy your new 38A/S it will be a pain to install on factory intake boot! So before you buy a 38A/S do your research I bought mine from ESR and had them machine the bell on both sides of carbs they were still a pain but they went in much better, good luck and at least put in a stock car on that bike.

[1982atc250r]

here is that carb that is on that. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-TRX-250R-TRX250R-ATV-Carb-Carburetor-1989-89-New-/390637747627?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5af3d2fdab&vxp=mtr