250r axle I.D. please?

[I weld stuff]

OK guys...
I just brought home my first ATC250R and I am stoked.

I will get some good pictures tomorrow if the weather holds out and I can get her all polished up and presentable. But for now, I need help figuring out what the axle on the bike is so I can get parts coming to fix it. (possibly also help figuring out exactly what I will need to order.) I am betting the axle is not stock because of the spacers for adjusting width you can see best in the second picture-provided I upload them in the right order.
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In the first picture: from the right- there is a small collar? followed by a large nut that starts hex, then turns into a round part that is either part of the threaded collar or screwed onto the threaded collar. The collar looks like it is probably left handed thread but that is not important at the moment. The last part before the brake hub is a thin lock nut/jamb nut. The lock nut just spins on the threaded collar like the threads are completely stripped out (I am sure this is a bad thing) and the threaded collar/main nut spin on the axle itself (I am not sure if this is bad or not until I get it torn apart.)
Am I better off buying stock parts, or some type of aftermarket anti fade lock nut? I have no experience with these nuts, just know they exist.
Thanks in advance for the help, I know someone on here will know what I have got.

[3wheelrider]

stock axle & lock-nut. the inner lock nut is supposed to butt up against the other to keep it from loosening. just tighten it. it should be fine..does it need bearings?

[3wheelrider]

Is the inner one spinning- but not moving?

[I weld stuff]

Sorry, I may have not explained it well enough. The inner nut spins on the outer without moving. Threads are ruined. Bearing are good but when I tear it apart I will probably replace them anyway.

[3wheelrider]

get yourself a used OE one.-stay away from the aftermarket one.

[I weld stuff]

Thanks guys, that is what I was thinking, just wanted to make sure.

[wonderboy]

...and the threaded collar/main nut spin on the axle itself

I agree with everything said so far. But I want to focus on the statement I've quoted you on above.

Both the nuts (the parts with hex on them) are sepparate from the threaded collar. The threaded collar engages splines on the axle to hold it from rotating while you torque down the two axle nuts. The spline engagement is only for a short distance towards the inboard (against the brake disc hub) side. If the threaded collar is not keyed to the axle, you will have trouble loosening the big axle nut (the other one is already loose). The splines on the threaded collar can get buggered up and not hold on the axle splines. If this is the case, you'll need to hold the threaded portion with a pipe wrench or something similar while you loosen the big nut. Since you seem to need a new axle nut setup anyway, this won't matter.

If you look on e-bay for a used setup, make sure they look clean and don't forget that brand new, you can get the three components (threaded collar, big nut, jamb nut) for about $45. So make sure to bid accordingly.

Any yes, everything there is left handed thread.

[oldskool83]

stock.....nothing special.

OEM lock nuts are junk. throw it away buy a durablue posi lock. ive had nice luck with them on all my axles oem or aftermarket.

next electrical tape it. keeps it clean tight and able to loosen up after riding in the nasties.

[wonderboy]

I agree the durablue nuts are VERY nice, but they are expensive too. I don't agree that the OEM nuts are junk. They have seemed to work fine from the factory on tens of thousands of machines, including mine...

[I weld stuff]

You guys are spot on. I was able to take it apart today and found a few things.
1. The jamb nut was not stripped/and the threaded collar looks all right. Phew!!!
2. It appears my issue is that I did not have enough adjustment and there are two probable reasons: I was looking at the parts diagram and it shows two O-rings that go between the brake hub and the fade nut. This bike does not have those; also, (correct me if I am mistaken,)I may get a little more adjustment out of the assembly if I can turn the threaded collar out a little from the big nut. The reason I thought it was stripped is because the small nut had gone past the end of the threads and was essentially floating.
3. Unrelated but more fun to deal with- on the bottom of the cushion arm for the shock, the collars are missing and the caps/seals are not in great shape. Also the factory bolts have been replaced with stainless bolts that look nice but are not correct. These parts are discontinued. Looks like I will have to do some searching.

Thanks for all the help everyone, I really do appreciate it! Surely more questions to follow.:wondering

[3wheelrider]

Yeah I wasnt too sure about that statement either- but it seemed he was clear it was stripped at that point so I left it at that-...I meant to mention & forgot to say it was reverse thread. -good point.

[3wheelrider]

stock.....nothing special.

OEM lock nuts are junk. throw it away buy a durablue posi lock. ive had nice luck with them on all my axles oem or aftermarket.

next electrical tape it. keeps it clean tight and able to loosen up after riding in the nasties.


I'll say that with the NEW Durablue one I have I had to make a spacer cause it ran out of threads and was useless till I did- but no problem with an OLD beat up OE part- it doesnt need a spacer & holds fine/ no alum. parts-......?-just my exp.

[oldskool83]

you will need a spacer made if running them not on ethe axle made. and i run the oldschool steel locking posi locks. no aluminum. if you wanna use the stock stuff some lock tight and the electrical type trick will work.

[I weld stuff]

Can anyone explain to me how the two o-rings are used? Are they just placed side-by-side between the brake hub and the fade nut assembly?

[Jason125m]

One of the o rings slides inside the brake hub , there should be a groove for it.

The other one I put between the fade nut assembly and the brake hub. Its just to keep water out of the splines so you do not have to cut it off in the future when it rusts on. Like when I picked up my 86.

I like the OEM locknut system, put some man in it and tighten that sucker, and it works great.

Durablue lock nuts are overpriced for what they are.

[wonderboy]

Assume for the discussion below, you are in back of the machine looking at the axle...

The way the system works (on stock axle with stock axle nut) is that the big nut is moved so that it pushes to the right against the outer collar (the ring that slips over the snap ring all the way to the right of the nut). All the big nut can push against is the threads on the threaded collar. So the threaded collar gets forced to the left and up against the brake hub. This basically holds the axle in place. It is as if you are grabbing the right side of the axle and pulling on it while holding the rest of the machine away from you by pushing on the brake hub. The second nut just jambs the first one into place and holds it.

http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i356/frank-and-sara/AxleNut_zpsae28fdf5.jpg (http://s1089.photobucket.com/user/frank-and-sara/media/AxleNut_zpsae28fdf5.jpg.html)

The torque spec on the large nut is 58-72 foot-pounds. The jamb nut torque spec is 87-101 foot-pounds. And, be sure to use a very nice puddle of locktite on top of the threaded collar before you move the jamb nut over to the large nut.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Just my $0.02, I have had great results with the Durablue posi locknuts. Follow the directions and DON'T over tighten it and they hold great.

I know money is money, but I don't consider $70 unreasonable for one when a good used OEM setup runs about $45 as stated here previously.

[Mr. Clean]

For OEM nuts, I would suggest buying a set of axle wrenches like these. This was the best $30 sum dollars I have spent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-TRX-450R-2004-2009-Tusk-OEM-Axle-Nut-Wrenches-45mm-56mm-/271029436172?_trksid=p2054897.l4276

[wonderboy]

Just my $0.02, I have had great results with the Durablue posi locknuts. Follow the directions and DON'T over tighten it and they hold great.

I know money is money, but I don't consider $70 unreasonable for one when a good used OEM setup runs about $45 as stated here previously.

...it was $45 for brand new OEM... not that this changes the situation too much. My point was that if buying one on e-bay used, be sure not to get carried away and bid more than that.

You are right though, the durablue is very nice and works great (I hear) but if money is tight, the OEM one should be able to be had from e-bay for maybe $20-$30 (at least I wouldn't go any higher than that on e-bay).

[wonderboy]

For OEM nuts, I would suggest buying a set of axle wrenches like these. This was the best $30 sum dollars I have spent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-TRX-450R-2004-2009-Tusk-OEM-Axle-Nut-Wrenches-45mm-56mm-/271029436172?_trksid=p2054897.l4276

I just got a set very similar to those and they are really the best way to do this job right.

Just a helpful tip: if you use a torque wrench with those to torque to the manual specs, just put the axle nut wrench at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench. This way you don't have to do any adjustment. The torque applied through the axle nut wrench will be exactly what the torque wrench is set to. If you put the axle nut wrench straight in line with the torque wrench, you'll get more torque on the nut than what the wrench is set to. This can be a significant amount based on how long the torque wrench is relative to the length of the axle nut wrench.