200s engine question.

[MonkOFox]

Is the 200s motor a "non-interference" motor? I'm going to put it back together. Well make it TDC and all that good stuff. Would easy my mind if there was no chance for the piston to ping the valves.

Thanks.

[captain2207]

I would think it would interfere.what's making you think it would?where in tx are you?

[rg97]

I dont think it does, just because i thought about it like this. During the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is fully extended and the piston comes to TDC so that it pushes out the exhaust, then valve closes, intake opens, fuel sucked in, and so on. So, if the exhaust valve is open and the piston is at TDC, and they dont hit, then they will never hit unless something goes really awry. I think thats also the reason that there are valve cuts in the top of the piston.

[kb0nly]

They can interfere and smack the piston if the timing is off! Set your timing by the manual, slowly roll the engine over by hand a few times after assembly is done to ease your mind and then forgettaboutit... LOL

[MonkOFox]

Yeah im definitely going to do it by the manual. Ill just turn it manually to make sure, good advice. Ill be putting the cam, stator and cover on tomorrow, ill post pictures and stuff if i have doubts.

Thanks,

Justin.

[kb0nly]

Best way to do it, by the book, so to speak. After you have done it once i bet you can do it by memory next time.... LOL

[MonkOFox]

Ok so I found the 'T' mark on the flywheel and lined it up with the index mark through that little hole on top of the bottom end.

178287178288

It's kind of weird though. Right when it gets to the T mark the crank rolls over by itself a little and the T is no longer visible. But the piston is at the top.
Touched it through the spark plug hole with a screw driver.

Another question. Here is the portion of the manual on the cam installation:

178290

However, it never specifies whether or not to attach the cam to the sprocket lobes up or down.

Here is a pic of the sprocket:

178291

The 'O' is supposed to line up with the groove (index mark) on the valve cover.

I'm not sure whether to mount it like this:

178292

or like this:

178293

Any advice would be appreciated.

I also have to buy a oil hole plug (?) I guess.:

178294

[C.J]

Lobes down. If the lobes were up it would push the valves open 180° early,,, plus would be hella hard to bolt together too!! Lol

[MonkOFox]

Awesome, I really appreciate it!

[MonkOFox]

So what is that oil plug for. I mean, I know it plugs that hole but what is it's purpose?

[C.J]

Are you talking about te hole in the cam journal?

[MonkOFox]

I don't think so. The last picture on #7. There is a hole that a little tiny oil hole plug is supposed to go into (on the lip of the cylinder body). Was just wondering why it's there and why it needs to be plugged. I already ordered it was only like ~2 bucks I think.

[oscarmayer]

yes it is an interference motor. that is why if you are 1-2 teeth off the sprocket you will bend valves or break pistons or both.

[MonkOFox]

Thanks for the info oscar.

[kb0nly]

Wow your inspection plug is really buggered up! LOL

It will roll a bit past T without the piston moving because the bottom end of the rod and crank can rotate a bit until the rod is angled the other way and starts to pull it down, think of how it rotates and you will get what i mean by that.

That little rubber plug in my opinion is an inspection plug, because if you pull it out then you can clean the oil galleys in the head, but without it there you can loose oil pressure at that point instead of the oil going through the small hole at the back cam bearing and into the cams center. Definitely needed for correct flow.

[rg97]

I don't think so. The last picture on #7. There is a hole that a little tiny oil hole plug is supposed to go into (on the lip of the cylinder body). Was just wondering why it's there and why it needs to be plugged. I already ordered it was only like ~2 bucks I think.
There is an oil port that brings oil up and into the center of the cam, and the only way to make that port is to drill from the top of the cylinder. that plug plugs the spot where the started the drill, and it directs the oil flow into the cam. It needs to be there, or else the cam wont get an oil.

[MonkOFox]

Ah ok. I was just wondering what it was there for. Thanks for the info kb. You too rg.

I'm just going to take the pull start off to align the marks like the manual says. because later on it says to align the f mark up before you put the stator? on. So I'll just shimmy something in there to keep it on the dot.

Thanks again!

[MonkOFox]

Had to order the little dowel pin that goes in the cam shaft that lines up the stator : (. Oh well. Hopefully Monday I can have it all together and ready to pull the starter!

This is the part of the manual after you put on the pulse generator cover:

178343

When it says to pour, I just take the cap off of the valve cover and pour in there right?

Also when they refer to 'journals' that's these right (the big black arrows)?

178344

[MonkOFox]

Should have my oil hole plug, cam dowel pin and exhaust gasket in tomorrow hopefully. I was just kind of bumping this thread to get clarification on my previous reply. Probably going to change the oil (Valvoline 10-40 ATV oil). Going to clean the oil filter/pump too. Now, the motor takes about 1 quart of oil. Do I pour the oil into the valve cover (to wet the lobes) in addition to that?

Thanks again,

Justin

[kb0nly]

I would definitely pre-lube the head. I generally fill the area under the cam and then give the rockers and everything else a good splash of oil to protect it on the first startup.

[MonkOFox]

Awesome, appreciate the tips! I got some inner tubes for the rear tires... Do I need to set the bead, or not? I was kind of worried about going to 15 + psi to set the bead so I just put what was needed and didn't make it pop on.

[kb0nly]

Lube em! I use some dish soap on the bead of the tire and on the wheel, makes em slip right in place with a lot less pressure, but you are going to have to air them up farther to pop the bead into place.

[oscarmayer]

engine build lube works great for initial startup. that is why it was made.

[MonkOFox]

Never heard of engine build lube. I bought some Moly grease. Going to put the grease on the journals (and their seats) and the cam bushing. Going to put the Valvoline 10-40 atv oil in the cam oil pocket and use an oil can to put some on the valve springs, rocker arms and lobes. Thanks for all the info though. It's funny because when CJ said lobes go down I vaguely remembered putting them up in my buddies 200x and the cover not wanting to seat.

Also found a good video on youtube about adjusting the cam chain tension. If you unscrew the little screw out of the tension nut, you can get a 3mm screw with a .5 pitch and thread it into the adjuster and push it up and down to make sure the spring loaded mechanism isn't all gunked up. Pretty neat.

[kb0nly]

I have heard of and used the build lube... But i generally only use that for new parts, example, replacing the cam with a brand new one... If i am putting the parts back in that came out, aka they are seasoned parts, i generally just give everything a good soak in oil, its only going to run a short period before oil flow reaches it anyway.

Another thing i do if its electric start, i will pull the plug and leave the fuel off and crank it for a few 3-5 second intervals to prime the oil pump and get oil started up through the motor, then go to fire it up and run it. That helps prevent everything running at a higher RPM dry.

[MonkOFox]

Awesome, yeah I'll probably take the plug off and gas and give a few pulls to get some oil flowing. I was hooking the rest of the wiring harness and came across two wires that seem to be just plain old ground wires but wasn't sure.

There's this one:

178610

I saw it one of the pictures in the manual and can confirm that it's hooked like that.

But there was also this one:

178611

I'm guess that's where it goes, it was bent and stuff. Here is a zoomed out picture so you can see where it runs to:

178612

Is that where the second wire goes? Bolted to the chain guide?

I'm gong to pick up a new spark plug on the way home (what should I get?) I have a DR8ES-L I believe. Are there any super awesome spark plugs out there that I should know about? Have to run and get some 93 gas as well and then I can try to start it! After it idles good, I'm going to put on the chain and change the oil.

[MonkOFox]

I'm just going to leave it there, it has to be somewhere down there, it's long as hell ( the wire ). Did some reading and apparently NGK is best (what I have though it's all dirty and has been sitting in the cylinder for about 3 years). Going to get some air filter oil and get the air filter all ready to go. I think it's a moose (yellow with faded blue lettering).

Was going to try last night but wanted the gasket maker to fully cure.

[kb0nly]

Yep, that ground wire is fine, leave it there.

As for the plug, definitely stick with the stock NGK, runs the best on them!