Auto-X Build. Lots Of Questions!

[DasUberKraut]

School has begun. I'm having a blast. Unfortunately the ATV unit is the very last one. But I now have plenty of time to gather much needed info and parts. So I come to you guys. Please enlighten me!

I plan on using an 82 ATC200 bottom end with an 83 200X top end. The 200X cylinder sleeve is cracked and chipped. Do I want to resleeve this and use a 200X piston or is the ATC200 piston and cylinder the same? Do I want to bump up to a higher compression piston? I am missing some of the 200X CDI components. Will the ATC200 CDI components swap over to replace what I am missing? I'll be running a DG exhaust and possibly removing the air box lid or entire air box. Are K&N filters really worth the money? Or is a basic pod filter sufficient? Will I want a bigger carb or use the stock 200X carb? Jet it?

I also had an idea to add the dash from a 125m with the key switch and neutral light. Is it possible to run wiring and have both of these functional or just a key switch?

Thanks guys. I appreciate any all advice.

[MonkOFox]

I've broke down a 200x and did the top end. Was exactly the same as my 200s. My buddy bought a piston, but it was a stock one by accident and it fit in my 200s. Yeah everything from the CDI should swap over if I remember correctly. K&N or UNI is what I see a lot of people running. You should only need bigger jets and etc if you bore the cylinder and put a bigger piston in.

[Yamaha_Rules69]

Do you have a 200x rolling chassis your putting this in, or?? If the cylinder is damaged, your better off to get a different one, they are litterally a dime a dozen, I have at least 3 in the scrap pile. The 200s is the same as x cylinder, as well as the cdi. A high comp piston is a nice upgrade, but for the pullstart motor I wouldn't go over 10.25:1, unless you got one strong recoil rope and an arm like Hulk Hogan. As far as the airbox goes, I would stick with the stock 200x carb for starters, it will run just fine. I would leave the airbox on, and just remove the lid at most. A clamp on is just too much in the open, and gets dirty fast. If you ride in any wet conditions its not a good idea. I have run UNI for over 15 years and not had a problem with them yet. I have heard a lot of bad things about K&N, and that it does not belong off road. I read some articles where they did a scientific study, and the K&N let lots of dirt in the engine and intake, even with the pre filter. They are a performance filter, and do allow more air, but at an expense. As far as the jetting goes, you will always need to do a change or adjustment after you make any change to the motor, intake, temp outside, or even a gearing change if you want to be perfect, and run awesome. A 4 stroke is a little more lenient than a 2, so you have that in your favor.

[DasUberKraut]

Currently I have the complete 82 ATC200 motor in my 85 X. I've been running the hell out of it and it's sitting right now waiting for me to adjust the valves and the cam chain so I can ride some more. I will be pulling this motor for the 200X top end swap when the unit comes up. I may end up rebuilding the bottom end too just for good measure. Depends on what funds allow.

Also, I have front and rear suspension from and 81 XR250R. I've seen a few posts about converting a 200X to a Pro-Link suspension. What do I need to do this? Can the front fork tubes be shortened and the X triples machined to give me a beefier front end?

[ebecme01]

As stated before, the 200S cylinder will work, but just FYI the cooling fins are smaller on a 200S cylinder. Also, pull starting with a 200X top end will be a little tougher than the original configuration.

[DasUberKraut]

I'm confused. I don't understand where people keep getting 200S from? That happened on another thread too. It's NOT an S. NOT an M, NOT an E or ES. It's a plain 200. :wondering

I guess I didn't look on the 200X head. Do they run a decomp setup or no? The decomp on the 200 isn't hooked up to the recoil but works good.

[ebecme01]

Gotcha, It's an ATC200. Same info applies. The cylinder has very small cooling fins. Also the X does not have a decompression lever or cable. My friend put a 200X top end on a 1982 185S and it was a lot of fun but wasn't very fun to start.

[ebecme01]

It's interesting that you dislike my helpful information. Is it really insulting that some generalize a non elec start 200 auto engine as a 200S engine? I don't think so they are all a dime a dozen and pretty much the same.

[DasUberKraut]

I didn't dislike intentionally. Trying to navigate on a phone with choppy reception. My apologies.
I'm a bigger guy. I doubt I'd have issues starting it. The new pull cord I got is a thick double braid from Bryco. I have a whole new recoil rebuild kit along with a Versah top end gasket set, and Shindy carb kit. (couldn't find OEM).

[MonkOFox]

I hate that circle gasket that comes with the after market carb rebuild kits. The originals where shaped the same as the body, took me awhile to get it lol.
I don't know if the handles on all the pull starts are kind of floppy but that is the reason it hurts to pull start a higher compression motor. The handle is kind of flimsy and
can snap out of your hand occasionally. Rest should be fairly easy and straight forward to get on.

[DasUberKraut]

There's a couple times I've forgotten to flip the decomp lever back. Damn near ripped my arm off. Lol.

[MonkOFox]

Yeah it's rough when it's a no go lol. What is the decompression lever supposed to do (inside the valve cover)? I was looking when I was was turning it and all that was happening was the inside pin was spinning too. I thought maybe it retracted and let the rocker arm have more free play but that's not the case. Was just wondering. Hopefully mine isn't broke.

[Dave8338]

I've seen a few posts about converting a 200X to a Pro-Link suspension. What do I need to do this? Can the front fork tubes be shortened and the X triples machined to give me a beefier front end?

You can change the stock 200X rear suspension to a Pro-Link BUT... it is not a direct swap, not in the least. I used a 1986 250R swinger and had to narrow the front of the swinger mounts by 1 1/2" and re-weld the pieces back together, had a special swinger bolt machined (though you could use the stock 200x bolt) and then there is the rear sprocket that needed to be off set by 21mm inward. Then you'll need a lower mount(s) welded to the 200X frame for the dog bone. Not sure but I think you can get away with the stock 250R shock (length may be too long) but I went with a 1984 250R shock and shortened the dog bone by 2".

Anything CAN be done, it all depends on how much work you can do yourself and what you are willing to pay others to do, for you.

Hope this helps. :w00t:

[DasUberKraut]

Pro-Link sounds like alot of work. I've heard it is a nicer ride compared to the standard suspension but I guess I'll live.

As for 200x cylinders being a dime-a-dozen. I beg to differ! They are spendy as hell! I can't find any under $50. Most are $100 or more. I found one for $20 but it's an 86 and I have no clue if it will match the 83 head or the 82 bottom end?

Thank you to everyone who as provided input. I appreciate it!

[RapidRick]

You can change the stock 200X rear suspension to a Pro-Link BUT... it is not a direct swap, not in the least. I used a 1986 250R swinger and had to narrow the front of the swinger mounts by 1 1/2" and re-weld the pieces back together, had a special swinger bolt machined (though you could use the stock 200x bolt) and then there is the rear sprocket that needed to be off set by 21mm inward. Then you'll need a lower mount(s) welded to the 200X frame for the dog bone. Not sure but I think you can get away with the stock 250R shock (length may be too long) but I went with a 1984 250R shock and shortened the dog bone by 2".

Anything CAN be done, it all depends on how much work you can do yourself and what you are willing to pay others to do, for you.

Hope this helps. :w00t:

Did you post a thread on how you did this swap? If so, how about a link!

[hoosierlogger]

Put A pull start handle on there from a snowmobile. That will keep the rope from getting ripped out of your hands and hurting nearly as bad. Plus in the wintertime it's easier to start with a gloved hand.

[DasUberKraut]

Some questions I thought of over the past couple days?

Would I gain better performance if I use an XR or CR camshaft instead of the 200X camshaft?

I also had another idea...could I get the 10.25:1 Wiseco piston and stuff that in the ATC200 top end with the 200X (or XR / CR) camshaft to keep the utilization of the decomp system?

Does anyone know where to find a Sudco intake or other aftermarket intake?

Thought I would just throw this at you guys too... Here's my sticker collection so far on my toolbox at school.

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w33/Duggalo/IMG_20131008_100809_526_zps3192c95a.jpg (http://s172.photobucket.com/user/Duggalo/media/IMG_20131008_100809_526_zps3192c95a.jpg.html)

[DasUberKraut]

Just a little update.

I actually lucked out and got my hands on another 82 ATC200 that I pulled the motor out of and I'm parting out. I swapped motors out of the Auto-X. Motor for the project is on my bench at school. I won't be able to wrench on it for a couple months still. Monday is my last day for the year. Don't go back til Jan 13th. Mostly in my spare time I've been bead blasting recoil parts and rebuilding them. I also found a great deal on an 82 200E for my brother and got him bitten by the trike bug.

[DasUberKraut]

So this other 82 ATC200 motor I put in last week... It wants to take my arm off I think. I would say 7 out of 10 pulls it tries to rip the handle out of my hand. The other times it pulls smooth as can be and fires right up. What causes this? I always make sure the ratchets are engaged in the flywheel cup before I pull.

On a separate issue... I can't seem to get a carb to work right. The original carb that was on the X when I got it is an unidentified Keihin. There's no idle adjustment and only one notch on the main jet needle. With this carb it will only fire with ether. I put on a 200X carb I rebuilt but it was dumping gas immediately so I pulled it and tossed it aside. Right now I have the original 82 ATC200 carb that came with the second motor. This carb will not idle. No matter what you adjust the idle or throttle screw to. It stays at the same high rev position. If I have time I'm going to pull that one back off and clean it tomorrow. I got frustrated today and came inside and ordered a used 200X carb off eBay for a good price. It came off a "running machine". So we'll see.

Hoping I can get the shock swapped too while it's warmer tomorrow as well. I also need to put on a new brake fluid reservoir. Head and tail lights. My DNR tags. And a grab bar before I'm ready trails again.

[DasUberKraut]

Carb I ordered came in today. Fairly clean overall. Sprayed carb cleaner through all the orifices. Everything appears to be working as it should. Gonna bolt it on and hope for the best. I'll take the gamble. If I have to pull it back off to clean it. So be it.

On a separate note. I took hoosierlogger's advice and order a D style pull start handle. Hopefully that helps. I'm wondering if I backed off the preload on the recoil a wind or two if that would help as well.