350x carb throttle needle stuck screws

[gladiator mice]

picked me up a 85 350x carb. took it apart. cleaned it thoroughly. went to replace throttle needle in the slide only to find out some nut job stripped the two phillips head screws. now i cant get anything down there to break them free. has anyone come across this issue before? what is the easiest way to get them out? the only way that has crossed my mind was to drill out the old ones, re tap the threads and buy some new screws.

[MonkOFox]

Can you use a manual impact driver to break them loose? Don't really know what screws you're talking about. Looked at exploded and nothing stood out to me. Pics would be nice : ).

[gladiator mice]

sorry for the confusion. inside the throttle slide at the bottom are two small screws that hold the throttle arm to the throttle slide, which is where the throttle needle sits with its c-clip. these two small screws have stripped heads so no flat head or phillips can remove. number 11 and 7.

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1985-honda-atc350x/o/m1916#sch19715

[gladiator mice]

ill get a shot of mine later tonight.

[Flyingw]

Those screws can be a drag to get out. I set the bottom of the carb on a firm surface and with a #1 Phillips screwdriver apply allot of down force on the head of the screw while gently twisting the handle. It"s really the down force that breaks the screws loose. Those are 3mm x 20mm pan head screws. The heads are easily damaged and there is no way to get in and cut a slot if the head gets stripped. I have an extra 350X slide and lift linkage if you abort that one.

[Yamaha_Rules69]

Try the #1 phillips with HEAVY downward pressure, as stated abov, but before you do so, dip the tip pf the driver in valve lapping compound. It adds a heck of a bite if your in hot water.

[wonderboy]

Once the heads are stripped, they can be a pain. Here is what I did: use a drill a little bigger than the diameter of the head and drill the head off. Keep checking as you drill, and eventually you'll drill out the material in the center of the head and the actual head will fall off. Do this on both screws. Now here is the cool part: the stubs of screw left in the holes will easily back out with needle nose pliers. On mine at least, the threads weren't seized in the holes, it was the tension on the head that prevented them from being backed out. Once the heads were drilled off, a needle nose pliers was able to easily grab the stub of screw left in the bottom of the hole and back it out.

Give it a shot, I think you'll be surprised.

[Flyingw]

Frank is right on that. Once the head tension is taken away when the heads are drilled off, the remaining threaded studs will turn right out but be careful. The slide has a Teflon coating on the outside so be gentle.

Thanks for the tap Frank. I got my hands on the choke valve tap.