350x clutch??

[fallguy666]

My clutch has started slipping in 5th and 6th gear.I am going to replace soon.what have you guys used? Opinions and suggestions please.I drag race and trail ride of that matters.thanks

[threewheelin-feelin]

use a oem or barnett. i have used others and they didnt last long. the only other i have had any luck with is the EBC but i still say go with oem or barnett

[barnett468]

use a oem or barnett. I have used others and they didnt last long. The only other i have had any luck with is the ebc but i still say go with oem or barnetti second that but will add that if you are drag racing i would put in slightly stiffer springs or preload your existing ones by around .030" using "an" style washers because if they are orig they are compressed slightly anyway. Steel plates with no dimples are better for drag racing but not as good for trail riding. Barnett fiber plates are probably a bit better for drags but originals are really good and the increased spring pressure will reduce the potential for slippage but will make your clutch lever a little harder to pull in.

[barnett468]

Also only use oil that is designed for wet clutch engines. This is any motorcycle oil. The auto store carries some as well as bike shops.

[fallguy666]

Digging this back up as my clutch finally bit the dust.Lol.I'm going to go with a Barnett kit.should I put washers on the springs anyway? Lever hardness is of no consequence.I only use the clutch to take off.am I in for surprises with the install or is it just like a motorcycle and pretty straight straightforward?

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Digging this back up as my clutch finally bit the dust.Lol.I'm going to go with a Barnett kit.should I put washers on the springs anyway? Lever hardness is of no consequence.I only use the clutch to take off.am I in for surprises with the install or is it just like a motorcycle and pretty straight straightforward?

If you get heavy duty springs, don't shim them.

I would advise using the clutch when you shift. It does add extra wear and tear on the transmission, particularly the shift forks and gear hubs.

[BOB MARLIN]

:CAUTION:
Don't break the clutch basket when you're in there !.

[ATC-Eric]

You dont need anything special unless you are rollin with some big bore stroker kit we dont know about. I have run EBC on my 400 Big Bore and beat the snot out of it in the dunes, on the dirt, at the drags, and in the mudd.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-ATC-350X-ATC350X-EBC-ENGINE-CLUTCH-KIT-1985-1986-/290954193678?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43be38ab0e&vxp=mtr


I would not spend the extra money on anything special.

[scuba]

I run the Kevlar Barnnett set of friction plates, a new set of steel plates and heavy springs. it don't slip... ever.... Ebt is an excellent choice as well as most stock clutches are, but I didn't want my clutch to be my week link.

[barnett468]

Digging this back up as my clutch finally bit the dust.Lol.I'm going to go with a Barnett kit.should I put washers on the springs anyway? Lever hardness is of no consequence.I only use the clutch to take off.am I in for surprises with the install or is it just like a motorcycle and pretty straight straightforward?hello, as ride red 250r mentioned, do not shim heavy duty springs. measure the thickness of the old plate set and the new plate set. if the new plate set is around a total of .015" thicker than the old ones or less, i would shim the springs simply because they are old and have lost some tension. "AN" style washers or some copper washers should fit. they sell them at industrial hardware supply stores and some true value stores etc. home depot and lowes won't have them.

try the clutch lever feel prior sealing up the side cover completely in case you have it shimmed too much. 1 shim should be fine, i would not use more than 2.

if the new plate set is around .025" or more thicker than the old set i might not shim it at all or possibly 1 shim under every other spring. yes you do not need shims on every spring. the cover will not warp, distort or break etc. providing the shims are not 1/4" thick etc.

the easiest thing is obviously to get new springs of your choice.

[wonderboy]

Be sure to file the grooves out of the clutch basket from the fiber disc tabs. I overlooked this on my first clutch rebuild. The tabs on the fiber discs that mesh with the slots in the clutch basket will leave indentations from the repeated pounding. Then, when you go to pull in the clutch lever (to stop) the discs don't want to settle into a nice loose unlocked state, they tend to get hung up in the notches. The result is extra drag when stopped and poor clutch feel.

Oh yea: I used OEM parts (fibers and steels) and aftermarket heavy duty springs (Vesrah).

[ATC-Eric]

I only use the clutch to take off.

Yeah just noticed this. You'll be fine with running your machine like that all the way up until you loose a gear or two. Its not worth splitting cases just so you can skip the clutch work. An alternative I like, I keep the throttle pegged, and run the clutch just long enough to slide it to the next gear. Plus it sounds cool. waaaaaaaEHaaaaaaaaaaaEHaaaaaaaaaEHaaaaaaaa.

[fallguy666]

I've got roughly a 393cc rite now.the gears have been slightly race undercut and hardened(???). I won't use the clutch for anything but take off and stopping.my race bikes have an ignition kill built in to the computer for when I shift without the clutch.I just let off the throttle when I shift.its just as hard on the trans years dumping the clutch as it is not using it.when it breaks,and I know it will,I will replace them.

[fallguy666]

And it is worth it not to have to use the clutch.there is to much of a chance of a miss shift or neutral find.when I race I can't take that chance.its cool when I'm racing my buddies or doing a little trail riding.but when there's cash on the line.....nope,won't rake the chance

[ATC-Eric]

its just as hard on the trans years dumping the clutch as it is not using it.

Incorrect! Where'd you read that?

When the trans is lined up and you dump the clutch the stress is on the clutch. When you shift without the clutch your pushing gears together till they catch, and putting unneeded stress, and wear on the shift forks.

[fallguy666]

Just the way i see it.Not going to argue man.I've been racing bikes since I can remember.either way when you run as hard as I do it is going to break gears.not a matter of if,bit when and how bad.and when it breaks it will be fixed.that's not what I'm worried about.Lol.this is just the first time messing with the clutch on this and was getting recommendations on brand and any tips/tricks to doing it.I change the clutch out in my busa in under 30 mins at the track.

[ATC-Eric]

Yeah man I'm not here to argue, wasn't trying to take it in a bad direction. Nobody can talk me out of beating my machines to death, so I have no leg to stand on with advice. Just a been there done that sort of thing, and don't like breaking in to motors any more then I have to now a days. I'm getting lazy.

[fallguy666]

Not saying anything bad man.I know its all good.I don't mind going in at all.Lol.I rebuild both my race bikes almost on a monthly basis.I know the 350x doesn't/shouldn't belong on an asphalt strip.Lol.way hard on it.....buttt, that's what I like

[fallguy666]

Finally did my clutch and put my swingarm on!!!!