83 ATC 200 E electrical question / volt regulator

[A-Martin]

Wen I first got the trike everything was working electric wise, light and starter, now nothing works. I tried all I knew to make it work but I couldn't figure it out so I just cut off all the fuses and the volt regulator. I was wondering whats the best way to make my light run again? I was thinking just to hook the light straight to the stator, on one of the 2 wires but I think I need to put the volt regulator in between because the light needs DC and the stator puts out AC, without the regulator it would just blow the bulb I think.

How could I wire this?

Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad spelling!!

[A-Martin]

Bump!! Whats my best option!

[kb0nly]

The light will run on AC, bulbs don't care they are just a resistor that glows... LOL

The problem is you will need to add some regulation. So if you don't want the electric start working again, and don't plan on using a battery anymore, the easiest way is to get a AC regulator and wire it to the stator output and wire the output of the new regulator to the headlight.

The electrical system is easy peasy on these though, stator output to rectifier/regulator, then the output of that to the battery. Battery voltage goes through the ignition switch to the headlight switch and to the lights. The most common problem i run across on the 200E is a bad rectifier/regulator. But make sure the stator output is good also. Get a voltmeter set to AC and put it across the yellow wires from the stator, start it and see what you have for output, it will vary with engine speed. If thats 10-20v at idle and goes up with engine speed you should be ok there. I say 10-20 at idle because depending on what your idle speed is set to and the health of the flywheel magnets and the stator coil it varies.

[A-Martin]

The light will run on AC, bulbs don't care they are just a resistor that glows... LOL

The problem is you will need to add some regulation. So if you don't want the electric start working again, and don't plan on using a battery anymore, the easiest way is to get a AC regulator and wire it to the stator output and wire the output of the new regulator to the headlight.

The electrical system is easy peasy on these though, stator output to rectifier/regulator, then the output of that to the battery. Battery voltage goes through the ignition switch to the headlight switch and to the lights. The most common problem i run across on the 200E is a bad rectifier/regulator. But make sure the stator output is good also. Get a voltmeter set to AC and put it across the yellow wires from the stator, start it and see what you have for output, it will vary with engine speed. If thats 10-20v at idle and goes up with engine speed you should be ok there. I say 10-20 at idle because depending on what your idle speed is set to and the health of the flywheel magnets and the stator coil it varies.

Couldn't have asked for a better answer!! Which wire color is in and which is out on the regulator? 2 goes in and 2 goes out I believe.

[Ghostv2]

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/content.php/196-ATC200E-Big-Red

This might help you a little, it's a wiring diagram for the 200e.

[kb0nly]

Yep that diagram is all you need, the two yellow wires in from the stator is the AC, out is Red and Green. Red is positive of course, and Green is the ground.

[A-Martin]

Alright thanks alot!!

[A-Martin]

So I finally had the time to do this! wired the regulator to the stator, positive wire right to the light, light works great but its dime. its brighter on idle and gets dime wen I rev it. I know my grounds are good and everything is well connected. I put the volt meter on it and on idle its 6-7 volts and on rev its 4 volts. This was tested after it goes trough the regulator, what does this mean? would the regulator be bad? I highly doubt the stator would be bad because the trike works perfect really.

Thanks!!

[kb0nly]

The lighting coil is separate from the ignition coil though, its two coils that are completely on their own. So you can have a bad lighting/alternator coil and the engine will still run perfectly fine.

At idle it should be well above that, more like 10-11 volts at least after the regulator. Measure across the yellow wires with your voltmeter set to AC volts and see what you have. You should easily have around 10-20 volts AC out on the yellow wires depending on engine speed. If you do then the coil is fine and the regulator is bad. If you have low voltage on the yellow wires then your alternator coil is bad.

[wonderboy]

If the old regulator appeared to not be working, and now your newly wired one isn't either, then you have something more fundamentally wrong like a bad stator.

Do like kbOnly says and use an AC voltmeter and monitor the stator output. Post back what the voltages are. Sounds to me like the stator is bad.