82 200e spark avancer

[danbur55]

should the spark advancer move in & out on the shaft? just found this after it sat a while was hard to start and discovered that timing was 180 out and advancer is moving in & out. springs back so not frozen. doesnt take throttle spit & sputters thanks everyone

[3wheelrider]

If you have the 10mm head bolt off-then yes. It slides in & out- once the bolt is out..The important thing to check is the tiny pin on the cam "shaft" is still in place. That holds the advancer in the correct position according to the cam. Sometimes the pin falls out & the advancer will just spin freely on the cam "shaft".

[danbur55]

thanks this moves about 1/16 inch in & out, maybe not that much but close, with the bolt in place the pin is there but i think it was round on the end was wondering if this was part of the problem cutting out under throttle and what was the fix cam or advancer or both just wanting it right so i can sell it thanks again

[3wheelrider]

The pin should stick out just enough to catch well on the advancer. The pin is normaly slightly tapered-only just barely. Doesnt usually wear out. Does it grab when u turn the advancer slightly back & forth?-U sure about the timing?

[danbur55]

no side to side movement on pin so it does grab advancer "T" mark in hole cam sprocket "o" lined up with rocker cover mark cam lobes down puts advancer mark up to pulser roll motor around to "F" mark lined up pulser to advancer mark as per manual downloaded advancer moves in & out while running

[cap]

Mine moves in and out about 1/16" on a 200M that runs great.
I have a 200E that had a stutter around half throttle for a long time and I had chased it forever messing with jets,clip settings, even swapped carbs but nothing got rid of it. I finally figured it had to be spark advance so comparing the spring tension with another good runner the springs felt a little weaker, I moved the timing counter clockwise (retarding I think) about one thickness of the pickup mark and it ran better so I moved it another thickness , it runs great!
I think the weaker springs were advancing the timing to much too soon?

[danbur55]

thanks cap will try playing with that, makes sense due to age & dont think this one has ever been touched. but was concerned about excess wear on pin or other parts even considered a small flat washer to limit movement thanks again guys

[danbur55]

finally got time to do some checking on this, tried moving pulse coil both directions and same results of sputtering. did some ohm testing and just seem to confuse myself with these numbers- pulse coil 30.4 exciter coil blk/red to green wire .215k ohms blk/red to ground .208k ohms a/c generator wires .8 between wires just needing some advice from more experienced

[cap]

Sounds like its time to pull the carb and clean it at the least or clean and install a rebuild kit.
Remove all the jets and the air screw, make sure to not damage or lose the tiny o-ring that sits on the small washer under the air screw. Spray out every jet and port on the carb then blow out with compressed air.
There is nice carb thread on here somewhere for more detailed guidence.

[danbur55]

ok pulled carb and cleaned again poking twistees tip cleaner and blowing out did find pilot needle o-ring was not good put back together same results idles great sputters under throttle, well start moving main needle to check for change, all the way up same, all the way down same. well low and behold if i pull airbox lid off WOW i got RPM's no sputtering, close lid dead dog, run wire up air intake tube, use blower with long copper tube to blow out, can see and feel air at backbone area. alright maybe cleared out trash OH NO still same result!!! lid on sputters, lid up yippee lets go!! which way do i go. am taking offers on this as that is what i planned to do anyway thanks alot everybody has new scorpions on rear and new rear hand brake cable as well as REDKOTE in tank. ya'll have a better day than i am