350X countershaft stripped

[matt3x]

So, first of all - let me say that I love the 350X. I never really put any seat time on it before Trikefest this year. We arrived at Haspin wednesday night, and I rode it all day Thursday without problem, it loves the trails and ate them up! Most of friday as well. And then... well... I was out riding and the countershaft splines were suddenly gone, so it was done for the weekend :(. Luckily I had a back-up trike.

What are my options for getting this fixed? What's the best way to do it and the worst? If you aren't familiar, the countershaft is what the front sprocket attaches to in order to drive the chain forward. No splines = no movement.

Is this a somewhat common issue on these trikes? I'm getting a quote from a local mechanic to crack the case and replace the shaft but I didn't really want to have to go through with that if I didn't have to.

I've also heard of just welding the sprocket on and then if you ever need a new sprocket or need to get it apart, just grind down the weld.

Opinions? Any other options? Pros and cons of each way? I didn't really want to dump a ton into this trike as it's just a trail machine/rider, but I want it to last as well.

Looking for all the help I can get it... and no I'm not familiar or comfortable enough to crack open the case myself and go through with that.

Thanks!

[just ben]

Do it right the first time and it will last another 30 years. It would also be a good time to measure and replace any worn parts in the top end.

[matt3x]

Do it right the first time and it will last another 30 years. It would also be a good time to measure and replace any worn parts in the top end.

Do you recommend anyone in the WNY area if I can't do it myself?

I have a full honda service manual for the trike. I think I'll read through it a few times... maybe it is something I can tackle... not sure.

[ironchop]

Do NOT weld it. Anything but that. Cracking cases only looks daunting. With a good manual, a clean work surface with a basic set of tools and some basic organization skills to help keep parts clean and ready to reinstall, makes it really easy to remember how it goes back together. If that still sounds like more than you want and you don't mind spending money then take it to a reputable and qualified mechanic.

Just dont weld it. A 350X will last forever if properly maintained and its resale value is deeply dependent on condition.

[jeswinehart]

personally, I would weld it ~ IF ~ the shaft is truly shot and nothing else is wrong.

The little keeper is in place correct (#21) ??? # http://www.bikebandit.com/1985-honda-atc350x/o/m1916#sch20297

[El Camexican]

If you go the welding route be sure to use only OEM Honda welding rods:rolleyes:
196306

[just ben]

Do you recommend anyone in the WNY area if I can't do it myself?

I have a full honda service manual for the trike. I think I'll read through it a few times... maybe it is something I can tackle... not sure.Josh at motion craft is very good and will do it at home on the cheap. I have never done a350x engine but I have done several others. It seems a lot more intimidating than it really is.

[matt3x]

196981196982

Thanks for the tip Ben - going to call Motion craft tomorrow and hopefully I can get a hold of Josh. If I had the room I would probably attempt this myself but I just don't right now. I wouldn't mind having the whole engine looked over anyway. Posted a few pics of the damage. I also have a spare shaft... I'm assuming it's the right one. Will update this thread with results, etc.

[El Camexican]

Glad to hear you're doing it right. Was not wanting to post this photo in disgust.
196992

[Dirtcrasher]

I'll give you a free countershaft if I have it and I fairly certain I do.

Just pay shipping. Note that I am scrambling right now to get to see the first TRIKES run on a pro MX track. It's also the same weekend as the Quad Nationals and watching them fly over dirtbike jumps would be awesome as well. So, I won't be shipping this week unless I have the time i which case I will. Finding it is step one......

EL Cami - are you North or South now? Would be great to meet you at one of these events!!

[El Camexican]

EL Cami - are you North or South now? Would be great to meet you at one of these events!!

Cancun (pretty far South). Just opened a jug of rum, how soon can you get here?

[Dirtcrasher]

As soon as they make me a drone capsule......

[matt3x]

Can anyone confirm this is the right shaft? If not, I'll be in touch with you DC.

Also, how does the sprocket look?

197008197009

[Dirtcrasher]

YIP, thats it. I'll try to look today or tomorrow OK??

DC

[El Camexican]

Also, how does the sprocket look?

197008197009

Using a used sprockets is like using a used condom. God only knows where it's been. If that wasn't used with the chain you have toss it in the scrap bin.

[matt3x]

Using a used sprockets is like using a used condom. God only knows where it's been. If that wasn't used with the chain you have toss it in the scrap bin.
Got the engine out tonight and will be dropping it off Saturday morning or Friday after work.

That sprocket is the one that came on the trike, had no problems with the chain, etc. the few times I rode it.

Any tips on how to prevent this from happening in the future? - the stripped shaft that is.

[El Camexican]

Are you saying that that sprocket was on the shaft that stripped? If so get rid of it NOW.

The main reason shafts strip is due to cheap, or worn sprockets, chains that are set too tight, misaligned sprockets, or the infamous "just turn the sprocket around and get another season out of that saw blade" trick. If for one reason or another as mentioned, the countershaft sprocket gets a little loose and then each time you up or down shift the splines take a pounding and get looser with every ride. If you want your next shaft to last, get high quality NEW front & rear sprockets, a good o-ring chain and make sure it is properly aligned and adjusted.

[matt3x]

Are you saying that that sprocket was on the shaft that stripped? If so get rid of it NOW.

The main reason shafts strip is due to cheap, or worn sprockets, chains that are set too tight, misaligned sprockets, or the infamous "just turn the sprocket around and get another season out of that saw blade" trick. If for one reason or another as mentioned, the countershaft sprocket gets a little loose and then each time you up or down shift the splines take a pounding and get looser with every ride. If you want your next shaft to last, get high quality NEW front & rear sprockets, a good o-ring chain and make sure it is properly aligned and adjusted.
Sounds good - thanks for the tip. Yes, that sprocket was the one that was on the shaft that stripped.

While we are on the subject - is one brand of sprocket/chain better than the other? I see some bundles come up on ebay where you can get an o-ring chain, front and rear sprockets all for like $60? Is that a good price, or cheap parts? I don't mind dropping a few bucks extra for top-notch parts that will last me. Never really bought a new sprocket or chain before.

[El Camexican]

The saying “you get what you pay for” applies very much to chain and sprockets. Renthal has a good rep for sprockets and D.I.D. o-ring links are the final word in chain. Don’t buy the $60 set unless A: It comes with D.I.D. o-ring chain, or B: You’re planning to sell the trike soon.

The rules of chain and sprocket life is as follows:
- Always change all 3 components at the same time (front, rear & chain)
- Use steel sprockets on both ends unless you race and have a sponsor
- When one of the 3 components wears out they are all worn out, period
- If you must make gearing changes using the same chain, then use aluminum rear sprockets and don’t mess with the front sprocket.
- Pressed links are the best if you don’t plan to change gearing and have the tools, but removable links are fine too, just make sure you install the open end facing opposite the direction of rotation
- If you don't have the tools to do a pressed link don't buy that style of link, the proper tools are mandatory
- Don’t reuse circlips on your chain or your front sprocket if so equipped, but if you must (on chain) safety wire them to the link. You can do this to a new one too.
- Use Blue Loctite on all sprocket bolt threads. If the stock bolts on the rear used the metal lock tabs reuse them, or consider safety wiring them
- Find the tight spot on your chain and use that spot to adjust your chain tension
- A little loose is better than a little tight
- Make sure your sprockets are aligned. Aside from reducing wear it makes a big difference to the way a trike tracks. There are tools made just for this, I recommend everyone get one, they work way better than tape measures
- Never blast your o-rings directly with a pressure washer
- Never use anything but o-ring approved chain lube or wax, it could damage the rubber O-ring chains don’t need lube, but they do need to be protected so that they don’t rust
- If you live in the desert you may not need any lube at all. Chain wax is great, doesn't pick up sand and doesn’t fling off on your trike
- Always take your trike for a spin around the block after you wash it to get the water off the chain and sprockets and then lube or wax it afterwards
- Check your chain tension before every ride, especially after the first few. Adjust accordingly and don't forget to look for that tight spot
- The absolute final word in perfect chain tension (if you obsess like me) is to remove your rear shock and move the swing-arm until the two sprockets are as far apart as possible. Find the tight spot in the chain and adjust to have about 10mm of slack in the chain. Put the rear shock back on

[ironchop]

I see some bundles come up on ebay where you can get an o-ring chain, front and rear sprockets all for like $60? Is that a good price, or cheap parts?.

personally, I`ve never had good luck with cheap sets either....the last cheap set I bought was right before TF and after just 4 hrs riding, I already had worn-out junk and I was pissed off that I didn`t spend the money for the good stuff....Except the rear sprocket which was 60$ and aluminum.....expensive, yes, but easily trashed by the other low-budget pcs. Aluminum is for racing machines that never see anything but a track for a few practice laps and a couple heats.....four hours ride time total on a race machine could be equivalent to a whole season of racing but when you are riding nonstop on trails it won`t last the day before needing replaced.

[ironchop]

The absolute final word in perfect chain tension (if you obsess like me) is to remove your rear shock and move the swing-arm until the two sprockets are as far apart as possible. Find the tight spot in the chain and adjust to have about 10mm of slack in the chain. Put the rear shock back on

Bingo!

I`ve seen many MANY riders adjust tension incorrectly....on a stand, no sag, no weight on the machine.

when we are out on a ride and don`t have the time to be that picky about correct tension adjustment, I always have a rider with similar or greater weight than myself, if possible, sit on the seat on level ground while I check the tension.

Like El said, if you just tighten it on a stand or sitting on its own wheels, you will probably have no slack at all and once you put weight on it, it can quickly damage a lot of things.

the best way to know when the sprockets are at their farthest point from each other is to align the rear axle, the swinger pivot bolt, and the center of the countershaft all three together. This is where they are the farthest apart in the arc of the swinger.

[Dirtcrasher]

personally, I`ve never had good luck with cheap sets either....the last cheap set I bought was right before TF and after just 4 hrs riding, I already had worn-out junk and I was pissed off that I didn`t spend the money for the good stuff....Except the rear sprocket which was 60$ and aluminum.....expensive, yes, but easily trashed by the other low-budget pcs. Aluminum is for racing machines that never see anything but a track for a few practice laps and a couple heats.....four hours ride time total on a race machine could be equivalent to a whole season of racing but when you are riding nonstop on trails it won`t last the day before needing replaced.

Spend 120$ on a good O-ring chain and good sprockets (for a 250R or 350X, 200's shouldn't run an O-ring chain). I have seen both Renthal and Sunstar sprockets work great with some maintenance. TUSK may be cheaper made and sold , IDK.

My Sprocket specialist aluminum sprockets don't seem to wear much...

[ps2fixer]

I have great experence with http://sprocketspecialists.com/ as well. My warrior with 28in mudbog tires needed a custom large rear sprocket, I think the largest we could get was 44 tooth, and sprocket specialists got us up to 52 tooth for a good price too. It still wasn't anywhere near low geared enough with a 11 tooth up front, but the same sprocket/chain set was used 8+ years before I stopped riding it and went to 3 wheelers.

Factory gearing for the machine was something like 40 rear and 13 front with 22 inch tires.

[matt3x]

Yikes... it's been a while since I posted an update on this. Time for an update. Picking the engine up tomorrow hopefully. Also grabbed a DID x-ring chain and JT stock sprockets. Should be back together by the weekend. Crossing fingers. Huge props to DC who helped me out on a spare countershaft... the one I had was too short (maybe for a 200x?)

Thanks for all the tips everyone, will definitely come in hand when putting the new chain on and making sure it lasts.