Honda 185s stopped running

[Hopper055]

Hello everyone I bought what i think is a 1982 honda 185s. It started fine and drove great untill I drove it into water too deep and it died. Pulled the plug pulled it over no water comes out replace plug pull over no dice. I have spark its blue. I have a new carb on the way. I think i sucked something in the carb cause it appears to flood. I have 115 psi of compression cold at full throttle is that enough? I read that 100 psi hot should run so am i good? Like I said it was running now nothing. Could it have jumped timing? Any input is appreciated. How much would a top end rebuild be? I got just a taste of the fun I want more. I have a spark tester on the way so i can see if I have spark while under compression.

[Samjp22]

-did you get water in your bottom end? (milky oil)
-air box full of water?
-can always just take the carb apart and clean it, probably wasnt a need to buy a new one.

im not an expert with 185's but im sure someone will chime in who has had similar problems.

[muddyYT125]

Is the 185 a 2-stroke? I was also gonna ask if you had water in your air box. Just curious how deep was the water?

[Samjp22]

185's a four stroke

[yaegerb]

Hello everyone I bought what i think is a 1982 honda 185s. It started fine and drove great untill I drove it into water too deep and it died. Pulled the plug pulled it over no water comes out replace plug pull over no dice. I have spark its blue. I have a new carb on the way. I think i sucked something in the carb cause it appears to flood. I have 115 psi of compression cold at full throttle is that enough? I read that 100 psi hot should run so am i good? Like I said it was running now nothing. Could it have jumped timing? Any input is appreciated. How much would a top end rebuild be? I got just a taste of the fun I want more. I have a spark tester on the way so i can see if I have spark while under compression.

Drain the crank case and put in fresh oil, if you got it in deep enough water to kill it then I would do this step several times or until the oil is clean (not milky). Carb likely has crap in it and you will need to rebuild, doubt you needed a new carb. Clean your airfilter. If it smokes at all when you get it fired up either live with it or you will need rings and a hone at the very least....approx 150.00

[Hopper055]

I Removed all the water from the air box and changed the oil. Water was up to my stomach it was shallow then dropped off. I'll probably pull the carb apart tomorrow.

[Samjp22]

Was the oil milky when you drained it? If it was as stated above change it several times. I had a buddy swamp his quad and it took 14 oil changes to get rid of it all. Buy cheap oil, run the motor for a second then drain and repeat

[Hopper055]

The oil wasn't milky, I drained it just in case the plan was to run it and see if it got milky. I'll be removing the carb soon I just got off work. Is a top end rebuild something I should attempt at home. I feel like it would be well worth the time and money. How hard is it to do though?

[Samjp22]

if youre fairly mechanically minded and have a proper manual it shouldnt be too hard

[Chopsaw]

Maybe check the kill switch while your at it .

[86125m]

we just did this ngine rebuild its not hard just get a good manual.

[Jmoozy27]

Just clean everything out and change the oil as described above. There should be no reason to rebuild the top end if you have 115 psi of compression. Get it back running before you pull the engine apart.

[Hopper055]

I cleaned the carb today and got it to run for about thirty seconds before it fouled the plug it was so rich the exaust was black when I reved it. I pulled the plug and what was once a good plug was now black.I'm thinking the carb was adugested to run good with a pluged carb now it's rich. What is a good base setting? I bought two more spark plugs hopeing to figure out the carb tuning. Thanks for all the help so far.

[Hopper055]

I installed the correct carb yesterday and got it to idle a little unfortunately it would not rev at all so I addjusted the idle adjustment screw and now I can't get it to start. It ran good before all this is it possible theres a timing issue from the swim?

[webbch]

Even if the carb was out of adjustment, it'll run more than 30 seconds before fouling the plug. As for the carb, I just make sure to have the idle adjustment screw turned in pretty far (50-75% I'd guess) initially which helps keep the engine RPM's up without me needing to keep my thumb on the throttle. The pilot screw is more the concern for getting a good idle - did you remove o-ring, small washer, and spring from the pilot screw when you cleaned it, and made sure to re-install it ? It's an easy item to overlook and throws off the pilot screw setting if left out.

The idle adjustment screw has very little to do with an inability to rev - it may cause an issue if the idle screw is cranked ALL the way in I suppose. I know from experience, however, that if you install the needle jet (not the needle) backwards the bike will utterly fail to rev at all, although you CAN still get it to idle acceptably. Depending on the size of the needle, it may bind up in the needle jet as well, causing a slow and/or inconsistent return from a rev.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v708/webbch/Misc/needle_jet_zps840b0b2a.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/webbch/media/Misc/needle_jet_zps840b0b2a.jpg.html)

[Hopper055]

I took it to a mechanic who diagnosed it with weak spark. It had strong spark after I got home from sinking it.He said he cleaned the surface rust from the cdi and it started. I guess it was the carb at first and while waiting for the new carb to get here the moisture got to the cdi. I just wanted to post the solution for people who may have this problem in the future.

[Jhopp600]

As far as the not reving up if it just bogs and dies your to lean and need more fule if it spits and sputters your to rich and need to lean it out