Honda 1983 200 ATC newbie

[ktm250xc]

Story,

I picked this up about a month ago. Front tire was rusted to rim. Pull start rope needs replacement. I put one in for the time being but think once I get it running assuming I keep it, I will order the correct parts. Pull start recoil is missing the compression release accessories.

Well.. I did get it running but it needs a few things. Problem is it did not stay running, the two times I got it running it ran for a bit and cut off.
fouled plug?. Checked it bought a new one and it fired back up. I also clean the carb, ran a could 30 minutes or so but again cut off.

front tire replaced. ran a bit and stopped, pushed it home form the woods and well here we are.

I think its ignition. I removed the headlight hi/low on/run off switch harness, This was rusted inside, broken leads, and maybe that was killing the bike, Maybe coil stator etc.

At this point I don't know. I checked the cdi mech and the contacts were pretty rusty so I clean that up.

My first question is will the trike start with the left hi/low off, run, off switch completely removed from the harness. If not, Is there a way to by pass until i can get another one?

steps for checking the cdi and the coil would be helpful. I read the stator can be checked with a broken plug. might try that.

Fire away. first post I'll be looking around your board for more learning info.

Thanks

Del

[86125m]

Well first off a good manual will be most helpfull it tells you how exactly how to test all the electrical stuff such as the stator and coil. I wouldn't bypass that switch it just too much trouble, find a good used one off eBay it will save money and time in the long run.

[jakep53]

welcome to 3ww

[quicksilver]

To answer your question, yes the bike will run without the kill switch, but it will stay running until you ground the cdi. Your bike does not have breaker points so it must have been super difficult to clean them... If a bike has a cdi box, you can be sure that it does not have points to clean.

Some tips for making an old bike run good using the ol Suck-Squeeze-Bang-Blow rules.

1. SUCK - Make sure your intake tract is clear from the air filter, through the carb to the manifold. Inspect the choke for proper operation.

2. SQUEEZE - Check the compression. A gauge is the only good way. They really aren't that expensive, and the parts stores will rent you one for free. With engines that are being stubborn to diagnose, a leak down test is irreplaceable as an an indicator of the mechanical condition of the valvetrain. Low compression has befuddled many a tuner that refuses to check it.

3. BANG - Check for spark.- Remove the plug, install the plug in the boot, lay the plug on the cylinder head to ground it, pull the rope to spin the engine and look for a good consistent spark. Since this is where you think the issue lies, report back and we can either eliminate or investigate!

4. BLOW - Check the exhaust for obstruction. Any bike that is in the condition you have described is a candidate for a blocked exhaust. Listen and feel for small thumps of air at the tailpipe when the engine is rotated.

This sounds more like a carb issue to me. You said it ran briefly twice before cleaning, then for 30 minutes after cleaning. It got better after cleaning it then, do it again. Check the tank for debris, report float height. Welcome.

[86125m]

Hes right alot of times you have to clean a carb 2 or 3 times before it will truly be clean.

[ktm250xc]

Well guess I'll need the switch first. Pardon my lack of knowledge lol

Thanks,

I read the carb float needs to be adjuster but this one does not have an adjustment that I see. It appears the needle just sits on the float.

I'll clean the carb again. I have it listed on CL so I might sell it.

[briano]

There ya go, it's best to just give up on it. A non running machine isn't worth much, hope you get some of your money back. Wish I was closer, I'd give you $50 for it

[Pickup_man]

Don't let it discourage you, there is a solution to your problem, you just have to check all the possible routes. One piece of advice I will give, that every one else should agree with is to take your time and do the tests properly, assumptions are always wrong, and "I'm pretty sure it's right" is not good enough, you have to know it's right. I'm not a mechanic but I've done a bit of research and fixed several of my own bikes/trikes and I've learned the hard way many times and am finally gathering all the proper tools to do the job right the first time.

As per your problem it sounds like you are on the right path starting with cleaning all electrical contacts and cleaning the carb. Based on the cleaning a dirty/plugged carb sounds like the best bet. Like others have said make sure the carb is immaculate, there are no bug chunks of rust or debris in your tank, and get a good fuel filter. One suspicion I have is that your coil may be going bad. Sometimes as coils heat up they loose their conductivity and a loss of spark occurs. Once the coil is cooled off it acts normal and will start up, but after riding it heats up and looses spark. There is a possibility of it being the switch also, I have one right now that sometimes has troubles turning the trike off (I wired in a key switch anyway so I'm not too concerned) it is possible that it is killing the trike. One last thing I would check is that there are no loose connections or places where wires are grounding out, that's happened to me a few times, it will randomly ground when you are riding and it's a pain to figure that out.
As I said, I'm not a mechanic, but that's where I would start. Good luck with it! Hope you don't sell it! 3 wheelers are about the most fun things on wheels!

[ktm250xc]

There ya go, it's best to just give up on it. A non running machine isn't worth much, hope you get some of your money back. Wish I was closer, I'd give you $50 for it

Lol

I'd part it out before I sold for $50. I'd probably burn it before I sold it for that. Did you not read the post a brand new iTP mud lite tire on it. That's $88.00 new.. You get the point. It runs just needs TLC.
In fact had it running again tonight, rode shift through all gears. Guess I'll go ahead and order the switch off ebay. It did not stall seems it may be the switch. You can buy it for say $400. It's in VA. Not perfect in anyway but runs and drives.


Thanks pick-up man

Finally someone not busting my chops.

[Jmoozy27]

I'm gonna side with p/u man and say the coil is acting up. Carb issues usually allow the motor to run but not great. Not saying the carb is clean as most people clean the bowl and say it's clean. I would do what 86125m said and get a manual, read it well, and check all of your electrical components as per the manual. If it seems like to much of a headache by all means sell it. But if you feel getting it rideable is within your reach, then fix it. You will be surprised at what u can get out of a 30yo machine.

[86125m]

Id say you get more out of a 30 year old machine than a new one. These old bikes are 30 years old and still are just as good if not better than any fourwheeler.