Reminder to clean that cintrifigal oil rotor filter on the honda 200's.

[BigRedRelic]

this is how bad most of my bikes have been when I get them.
206194206195

[tri again]

Yummy.
Anything particular wrong with this machine? or just regular dirty oil for 20+ years.?

I asked about cleaning those a couple yrs ago and
the answers came back across the board.
NEVER been cleaned and still clean to some like yours.
I put 8 or 10mm neodymium magnets on all my drain plugs now.

[BigRedRelic]

this is a normal operating machine. oil was even clean when I got it. yea they actually tell you to do this in the Honda service manual every oil change. no one does it because you have to take the right side case off. im not sure if this is coincidence or not but my bike had a sweating valve cover. after I cleaned that oil filter rotor out I had a oil LEAK out of the valve cover. I say it reduces the oil flow when its like that. these things will run cracked it half and have no cam lobes left so no one really cares. but this will keep your motor running great after you put money into it. plus when you clean out a filter and it looks like that! il never NOT do it again. after I did my rebuild, on my first oil change I took the filter off and it was full of gasket material and some other shaving from normal engine building debris. the filter does work. so it should be clean. after its full of crap its not working anymore cause the oil wont spin. just my two sense I guess.

[tri again]

10-4 BRR.

The responses I got were, as I said, from pointless to mandatory.
Some 25 yr old machines were perfectly clean and some were like yours.
No real rhyme or reason that I could tell.

When I do side cover gaskets, I usually use 3m adhesive, (contact cement)
get 'em perfect and let them dry overnight so that they stick to the side covers and can be reused
many times before they fall apart.
What would you guess is the majority of that filtered material?
Is it metallic? Magnetic?
My bike shop guy showed me some new bike oil changes and the break in oil shavings were appalling.

[BigRedRelic]

yea its pretty hard to believe that filter could be clean after 20 years of use. unless someone was doing proper maintenance of coarse. yea the 3m is a good idea. im going to do that when I get my case apart again. yea I thought I was being clean when building the motor but it filtered out lots of crap. the little stuff that the screen doesn't catch.

[tri again]

yea its pretty hard to believe that filter could be clean after 20 years of use. unless someone was doing proper maintenance of coarse. yea the 3m is a good idea. im going to do that when I get my case apart again. yea I thought I was being clean when building the motor but it filtered out lots of crap. the little stuff that the screen doesn't catch.

so does it seem metallic or magnetic?

Yeah, those neodymium magnets the size of a pencil eraser will pick up a 12" crescent wrench.
I put them on the outside of all my drain plugs.
About a buck each at the local store but like 20 for 5$ on ebay and 40 for 5$
if you wait a few weeks for them to come from china.
I have been known to do lawnmower oil changes where you tip the trike over and drain oil out the fill hole.
Takes less than a minute and No Tools required.
People make fun of me but I know me, oh I'll do it next week, it's a little low anyway bla bla bla.
Oil is cheap compared to engine parts.

Sounds like you've got a good machine now.

ps - the best glue I've found is 3m contact cement.
The gasket sticks real good and will NOT move as opposed to one time I used hi torque gasket cement and it squeezed out and took the gasket with it.

[BigRedRelic]

Its seems like clutch material mixed with some dirt. there's a bit of metallic to it as well. it wont stick to a magnet though. I even tried to shave it down and stick to the magnet and no go.
thanks for the 3m trick!

[tri again]

Its seems like clutch material mixed with some dirt. there's a bit of metallic to it as well. it wont stick to a magnet though. I even tried to shave it down and stick to the magnet and no go.
thanks for the 3m trick!

Did you change clutch parts when you did your rebuild?
Did you soak the clutch plates in oil before assembly?
200x right?

I often wondered why engines don't usually have magnetic drain plugs
but most engines only spew dirt and babbit rod bearing material,
originally belt leather so not much magnetic stuff.
M cycle engines share with trans and bearings and races and hardened stuff.

Transmissions are the ones with magnetic drain plugs usually.

I just love those little magnets.
They just make me feel better.
Like oil additives. They probably do nothing except to make the owner feel better.
We call them 'car cocktails' for that reason.

edit:
I see 200s.
Never seen mention of soaking auto clutch parts in oil.
Usually for multi plate wet manual shift clutch parts.
I know changing brake shoes, they are different thicknesses when brand new.
I wonder if your clutch shoes are a different material?
or thicker?
Brings up an interesting topic.

Yours works good though, right?
I know of the 'wet clutch' oils these days but think of what they used in the 80's.
Owners Manuals usually state 10-40 or 10-30 with no mention of wet clutch stuff.

If this starts a never ending oil thread, I apologize.

[BigRedRelic]

both clutches are the factory clutches that im aware of. I think its normal for there to be clutch debris in the filter as it is a designed to wear. I run rotella-t 15-40

[110200]

Dosent the the centrfical oil switched when you change the normal oil?

Sent from my YP-GI1 using Tapatalk 2

[tri again]

Dosent the the centrfical oil switched when you change the normal oil?

Sent from my YP-GI1 using Tapatalk 2
yes but that drum spins so fast it throws particles against the side wall like a washing machine on spin cycle
and NEEDS TO BE MANUALLY REMOVED.
ACTUALLY REC(oops) recommended in the manual and MAYbe every oil change.

It's probably worth a look at least once after we get them and get them running for the first time.
because as we all know how obsessive we trikers are at changing oil

[BigRedRelic]

the washing machine on spin cycle is a great way to explain how this filter works.

[Crazyktmmatt]

Does they apply to a 200x?

[tri again]

Does they apply to a 200x?

Not sure.
Let's see if the next 2 words light up as a clickable link:

service manual

It used to link to all the manuals

[tri again]

Dosent the the centrfical oil switched when you change the normal oil?

Sent from my YP-GI1 using Tapatalk 2

http://www.oscarmayer.net/atc/manuals/

try this link for a manual.
The other links I posted don't work from here.

[Crazyktmmatt]

Yep! 200x has a oil rotor too

[atc500x]

70-90-110-125-185-200 have a rotor oil filter

70-90-11-125 is in the primary clutch cover

[BigRedRelic]

Yea most of the Hondas use this style of oil filter. Pros and cons I guess. You don't need to buy a new one but need to take the case apart to clean it!

[Jmoozy27]

When buying a new atc, they usually don't run. This procedure is always on my list of must dos along with:

1. Oil change
2. Tank / carb cleaning
3. Fork oil/seal change (if applicable)
4. Differential / final drive clean/lube
5. Bearing inspection on all pivot points

When the cover is off I use diesel or kerosene to clean/flush all of the lower areas of the case where sludge has gathered.

[86125m]

15w 20 isnt the right oil for your bikes all of these bike run either on 10w 30 or 10w 40