Drive Chain Question 250r

[Samjp22]

Looking to upgrade my chain to an o-ringed one. Whats the standard size for a 1985 atc 250r chain? Can't seem to find specs on it from servicehonda.com and ebay varies from 520x84 to 520x96.

[Mr. Clean]

520x96 is what I see for 1985 ATC 250r.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/958/2085/Primary-Drive-520-RDO-O-Ring-Chain?v=1250

[Samjp22]

Thanks Mike!

[El Camexican]

Looking to upgrade my chain to an o-ringed one. Whats the standard size for a 1985 atc 250r chain? Can't seem to find specs on it from servicehonda.com and ebay varies from 520x84 to 520x96.

Spend the bucks on a D.I.D. you'll be glad you did.

[Samjp22]

Exactly what I'm looking at, the chain that's on there now is pretty stretched, the PO had the chain so sloppy when I first got it, had to cut three links outta it to make it work lol

[fabiodriven]

Yeah good luck with the O-ring master link if you get one. I don't understand why, but I've yet to find an O-ring master link that actually goes together the way it should. I've tried D.I.D., RK, no name... I always end up having to grind, omit O-rings, and force things together, usually destroying things in the process. My last D.I.D. I got for the XR a couple months ago and ruined a brand new chain installing the O-ring master link before the thing had ever even been on a chain wheel. I'd like to write D.I.D. someday and see them install one of their own O-ring master links properly. They don't fricken work!

[El Camexican]

Yeah good luck with the O-ring master link if you get one. I don't understand why, but I've yet to find an O-ring master link that actually goes together the way it should. I've tried D.I.D., RK, no name... I always end up having to grind, omit O-rings, and force things together, usually destroying things in the process. My last D.I.D. I got for the XR a couple months ago and ruined a brand new chain installing the O-ring master link before the thing had ever even been on a chain wheel. I'd like to write D.I.D. someday and see them install one of their own O-ring master links properly. They don't fricken work!

LOL!!! I've been able to do it a few times using my chain-braker to pull them together, but I've f****ed up a bunch of clips too. Now I just use rivet style masters. Prefer those anyway, but then you can't play with gearing.

I have parts to make up about a half dozen D.I.D. links, all I'm missing is clips, any idea where to buy just a D.I.D. clip?

EDIT: Just had a thought. I wonder if you left the chain-braker on the master-link overnight if the O-rings would stay compressed long enough to get the clip on?

[Samjp22]

Ill let you know my results and if I get it together nicely ill gladly take a video! lol Just typed D.I.D clips on ebay and lots came up, pretty cheap but shipping is ridiculous for me anyways

[El Camexican]

Ill let you know my results and if I get it together nicely ill gladly take a video! lol Just typed D.I.D clips on ebay and lots came up, pretty cheap but shipping is ridiculous for me anyways

Yea, but the whole link is for sale. In theory we're supposed to replace the clips each time we remove it, but not the link as it's already worn in with the rest of the chain, so you end up with a bunch of incomplete master links.

I hope you're changing your sprockets too. Use a steel rear if you want it to last.

[f76]

Yeah good luck with the O-ring master link if you get one. I don't understand why, but I've yet to find an O-ring master link that actually goes together the way it should. I've tried D.I.D., RK, no name... I always end up having to grind, omit O-rings, and force things together, usually destroying things in the process. My last D.I.D. I got for the XR a couple months ago and ruined a brand new chain installing the O-ring master link before the thing had ever even been on a chain wheel. I'd like to write D.I.D. someday and see them install one of their own O-ring master links properly. They don't fricken work!

I have had good luck using channel locks to squeeze the master link down enough to get the clip on. Has worked well for me. It takes a combination of squeezing outside edges and middle to get it from my experience.

[Samjp22]

yeah a steel sprocket is on the list as well, PO put a renthal one on and its already pretty worn down

[fabiodriven]

I have had good luck using channel locks to squeeze the master link down enough to get the clip on. Has worked well for me. It takes a combination of squeezing outside edges and middle to get it from my experience.

Yeah, but no. I've installed plenty of master links over the years. The last two took a C-clamp and an angle grinder to get them together.

[oscarmayer]

we use pro taper chains. They always work great and have the strongest tinsel strength we have found so far. The 428 (size we use) is the only one with 5700 brake capacity. All others are less. So if you want a good one, they are one of the best around. not the cheapest, but in my mind the best.

[250rRoostmaster]

Get this, DID 520 VT2 Narrow Enduro Racing X-Ring Chain. Narrower that o-ring chains that seems to always rub the cases. The narrow x ring is the same width as a standard chain. I love mine, best chain I've ever used hands down and won't go back to o-ringed chains. They almost have no stretch and last a long time.

[Red Rider]

The last two took a C-clamp and an angle grinder to get them together.Yep, o-ring master links are difficult to install, while x-rings are slightly easier, yet still difficult. If you're trying to install them in the cold of winter, it'll be damn near impossible, unless you heat up your o or x-rings. Try heating them up in some hot water next time, to get them nice and pliable. It makes them so much easier squish down.

[250rRoostmaster]

Yep, o-ring master links are difficult to install, while x-rings are slightly easier, yet still difficult. If you're trying to install them in the cold of winter, it'll be damn near impossible, unless you heat up your o or x-rings. Try heating them up in some hot water next time, to get them nice and pliable. It makes them so much easier squish down.

I have a motion pro chain breaker and it also acts as a press for master links. Best way to do clip style masters. It squishes the plates and leaves enough room to get the clip half way on before you have to remove the press.

[Samjp22]

roostmaster, do you order that chain from rockymountainatv? it comes in a 520x120, is it okay to cut links out of an o-ring/x-ring chain?

[El Camexican]

This one works the same way, but cost a little more than the Motion Pro. Not cheap, but it's one of those tools that will last a lifetime if you take care of it. When I think of all the years I did my chains with a grinder and punch I feel like an idiot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RK-Motorcycle-Chain-Breaker-Press-Rivet-Tool-Kit-/111421455418?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f13c7c3a&vxp=mtr

[250rRoostmaster]

roostmaster, do you order that chain from rockymountainatv? it comes in a 520x120, is it okay to cut links out of an o-ring/x-ring chain?


Yes, I got mine from Rocky mountain in 520x120. I have an extended swinger so I needed the longer chain anyways. You can cut it just like any other chain, not a problem!

[fabiodriven]

I have a motion pro chain breaker and it also acts as a press for master links. Best way to do clip style masters. It squishes the plates and leaves enough room to get the clip half way on before you have to remove the press.

See the problem with that is when the chain is physically too thick, or the master link not wide enough, to compress enough to get the clip on. The last three times I've attempted to install the master link on my brand new O-ring chains, which was very recently and all three came with their own master link brand new included with the chain, I had to remove the O-rings from the master link and grind the chain down on both sides to have enough room to get the clip on. I'm not bullshitting and I'm surprised more people haven't spoken up. I was livid putting these things together because as everyone knows, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and here I am weakening my brand new name brand chains just to install them for the first time. It's something that makes me really, really angry. I seriously want to fly to D.I.D.'s headquarters and have someone install one of their master links right in front of me. How can they even sell a product like that which does not work? It's fricken bollocks is what it is! I get really revved up over it, no joke.

[250rRoostmaster]

See the problem with that is when the chain is physically too thick, or the master link not thick enough, to compress enough to get the clip on. The last three times I've attempted to install the master link on my brand new O-ring chains, which was very recently and all three came with their own master link brand new included with the chain, I had to remove the O-rings from the master link and grind the chain down on both sides to have enough room to get the clip on. I'm not bullshitting and I'm surprised more people haven't spoken up. I was livid putting these things together because as everyone knows, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and here I am weakening my brand new name brand chains just to install them for the first time. It's something that makes me really, really angry. I seriously want to fly to D.I.D.'s headquarters and have someone install one of their master links right in front of me. How can they even sell a product like that which does not work? It's fricken bollocks is what it is! I get really revved up over it, no joke.

I totally hear ya as the clip style are a joke and don't get me wrong, I've screwed up my fair share as well. The rivet style is hands down better and stronger and will save you many cuss words and thrown tools LOL.

[Samjp22]

So on rockymountain do you order the chain then order which master link you want clip/rivet? Do the rivet ones just pop on or what? I've only ever dealt with clip chains.

[250rRoostmaster]

So on rockymountain do you order the chain then order which master link you want clip/rivet? Do the rivet ones just pop on or what? I've only ever dealt with clip chains.

It comes with a clip style master link. You can buy either style separately which is what I do. You need a tool like the ones described earlier (motion pro or the one the el Camexican linked too) to install a rivet style because they need to be pressed together with a chain press.

[El Camexican]

So on rockymountain do you order the chain then order which master link you want clip/rivet? Do the rivet ones just pop on or what? I've only ever dealt with clip chains.

You need a tool like the one I posted to install the rivet types. You also need the tool (or a grinder) to remove them and when you do they should go in the garbage, but if you want you can try and reuse them, but it's not a good idea. With the right tool they are much easier to install than a clip and less prone to failure. The only issue is to not over tighten them, it takes the right touch and a little common sense. I use them whenever possible.

NOTE: 250Rroostmaster types faster than me

[El Camexican]

See the problem with that is when the chain is physically too thick, or the master link not thick enough, to compress enough to get the clip on. The last three times I've attempted to install the master link on my brand new O-ring chains, which was very recently and all three came with their own master link brand new included with the chain, I had to remove the O-rings from the master link and grind the chain down on both sides to have enough room to get the clip on. I'm not bullshitting and I'm surprised more people haven't spoken up. I was livid putting these things together because as everyone knows, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link, and here I am weakening my brand new name brand chains just to install them for the first time. It's something that makes me really, really angry. I seriously want to fly to D.I.D.'s headquarters and have someone install one of their master links right in front of me. How can they even sell a product like that which does not work? It's fricken bollocks is what it is! I get really revved up over it, no joke.

At one time I had a few thinner O-rings from ??? kicking around that were the same OD as the DID rings. I exchanged the fat chain O-rings for these and it suddenly became easy to get the clip on. That might be better than grinding a link if you can find some.

[fabiodriven]

Grinding the link is necessary even with no O-rings installed at all. That's what I'm getting at. Master links that just are not wide enough for the chain. Never mind thinner O-rings, it doesn't work without any O-rings at all.

[250rRoostmaster]

Grinding the link is necessary even with no O-rings installed at all. That's what I'm getting at. Master links that just are not wide enough for the chain. Never mind thinner O-rings, it doesn't work without any O-rings at all.

I've never had to grind anything on the chains i've installed, you must have angered the chain gods!! LOL I see what you are saying though if the dimensions are physically different between the master and the chain. That could definitely pose a big problem with assembly. I'm glad i haven't had to deal with that situation in my years of installing chains and hope you get some better luck with those masters!

[fabiodriven]

This has been a great thread, thanks guys. I've only ever used master links so I don't have any experience with the rivets. Unfortunately I can't use rivets as I have to remove the chain on my XR too often for that to be feasible. I'll get an X-ring next time I'd say.

[Samjp22]

This thread has been very helpful! Thanks as well

[El Camexican]

Grinding the link is necessary even with no O-rings installed at all. That's what I'm getting at. Master links that just are not wide enough for the chain. Never mind thinner O-rings, it doesn't work without any O-rings at all.

I've never seen one like that in my life. No wonder you're so pizzed!:lol:

[pipeline triker]

At one time I had a few thinner O-rings from ??? kicking around that were the same OD as the DID rings. I exchanged the fat chain O-rings for these and it suddenly became easy to get the clip on. That might be better than grinding a link if you can find some.

This is what I do, I keep the thinner o rings on hand. By using the smaller ones you can get the link together, still need to sqeeze it with a link press or I like to use a small needle nose vise grip. I have started not running many o ring chains, I wash my trikes after every ride and clean the chains and oil them after every ride. I get real good life out of non orings.

[El Camexican]

Almost sounds like Fabio is getting non-o-ring masters with his O-ring chain. That's the only thing that makes any sense.:wondering

[yaegerb]

Glad I finally read this thread and happy to see I am not a moron that can't get his O-ring master links together without Thor-like strength.

Pipeline, your method is EXACTLY what I figured out about 2 years ago....LOL. I think once my o-ring chains wear out I am taking BKM's advice and running non o-ring chains in the future. Not worth the headache IMO.

[atctim]

Here is what I do. After the master link is thru the chain and the o-rings are on, start sliding the flat link on. Now grab your vice grips and a small nut. The nut needs to have an ID big enough to clear the link studs. place it over the hole and squeeze with vice grips. Work back and forth from stud to stud. Eventually it will "seat" and you can clip the clip right on. Works every time.

[onformula1]

Try these out, they work great.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/master-link-tool/

[Samjp22]

Well attempted getting that chain put together today, lets just say I'm too frustrated to try again till after supper. Glad I reread this thread and going to try Tim's method, and fabio ill still try and record it

[aramid]

.
If your chain is worn and your sprockets are not new, it is likely the sprockets are worn also . . a heavily worn sprocket can easily reduce chain life by 50% or more . . I would inspect the sprockets for any obvious signs of wear . . once the chain is installed, you can also grab one link and try to lift or pull the chain away from the sprocket firmly on the rear of the rear sprocket . . if the chain lifts off of its position at all, the sprocket is worn . . if you can lift it around 3/16”, your sprocket is pretty worn . . this method can also be used to determine a worn chain on new sprockets etc . . you can see an example around 1/2 way down in the link below.

http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/ChainWear.pdf

[Samjp22]

Bought new chain and spockets, both were worn very bad... And as promised Fabio heres the video, did exactly what Tim said and it works perfectly, just had to tap the open end of the link into the groove at the end. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNm_Fr2tIXE

[Scootertrash]

This is what I use. Works pretty good IIRC, been awhile since I used it, but it'll be brought back into service shortly. I bought it when I had to replace the chain on the wife's 76 FLH. I can't remember where I got it, if I can figure that out I'll post a link. ;)

209599209600

ETA: Found it

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/6000365?utm_source=none&utm_term=&adpos=1o4&creative=44525597410&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CKrSzY_wxcMCFZKFaQodazIAxw


ETA-2: Fabio gets +5 internets for using the term "bollocks". Where did you pick up a term like that? You been hangin out in a haberdashery?

[fabiodriven]

Thanks for the video, but as I said if I have to use the grinder to make room then the O-rings just aren't the problem. If there isn't enough room for just a bare master link without any O-rings, there is a problem. I have come up with a simple solution. I'm just not going to run O-ring chains.