puzzled about Tri moto

[ddiggerr]

Hi there,

I'm new to the board and have just purchased what I thought was an 83 yt175. After doing a lot of research with the VIN (3x3-009266), it appears I purchased an 80 yt125.

This is where I am puzzled. The trike has front suspension and the head has 6 bolts, fuel pump, no front brake. The plastics match that of an 80 yt125. The VIN on frame matches number on engine.

I am just curious what year the trike really is, so I know I am purchasing the correct parts

Thanks

[Jmoozy27]

Pics would help

[Yamawheeler]

80-83 were pretty much the exact same. 84 had front drum brake.

[ddiggerr]

Pics would help

Here are a few pics. Seems like every time I look at the trike, I notice something else that makes me think ... "What did I get myself into"

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In the one picture, it shows 3 sprockets for the chain. the small sprocket in the middle seems to be busted. Can this be removed without causing any issues? I have also looked around online and cannot find any mention of this third sprocket being stock.

Thanks

[YamaBoss]

Its got the forks of a 175

After check the vin number here it does look like a 125
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/132415-Yamaha-serial-VIN-numbers

[ddiggerr]

Its got the forks of a 175

Check the vin number here
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/132415-Yamaha-serial-VIN-numbers

Yes.

What I have also read is, a yt125 has a four bolt pattern on head and a yt175 hads a six bolt pattern. Mine is a six bolt.

I have no idea if I have a Frankenstein trike.

[Ghostv2]

That third sprocket your referring to could just be a chain tensioner.

[El Camexican]

80-83 were pretty much the exact same. 84 had front disk brake.

Really?:wondering Would love to see a photo of one.

[Jmoozy27]

It looks like it has a lot of old mods. If you get it running it will probably be a quick and crazy machine. The motor looks like the 125s I have seen in person. What will it take to get running?

[ddiggerr]

It looks like it has a lot of old mods. If you get it running it will probably be a quick and crazy machine. The motor looks like the 125s I have seen in person. What will it take to get running?


I started tearing it down yesterday. As I was doing that I noticed the pull start adaptor plate has all the screw holes busted out. There is no way to attach the recoil I just repaired ..... Awesome!

That sprocket for the chain tension is missing a bushing and is flopping around, so I will eliminate it for now.

Pulling motor to clean it up and check everything over before I fire it up. The oil is filled to the top and I cant move the shifter.

The choke cable is seized as is the brake cable. It appears it has an aftermarket exhaust and the frame was butchered to make it fit.

I am doing a complete tear down to a bare frame to make this thing right.

[Yamawheeler]

Really?:wondering Would love to see a photo of one.

Yeh sure. Would be cool to see the differences if there is any. My 200 looks like most of the other 200s unless it's a tri-moto. Was a typo support to be drum not disc.

[Jmoozy27]

I started tearing it down yesterday. As I was doing that I noticed the pull start adaptor plate has all the screw holes busted out. There is no way to attach the recoil I just repaired ..... Awesome!

That sprocket for the chain tension is missing a bushing and is flopping around, so I will eliminate it for now.

Pulling motor to clean it up and check everything over before I fire it up. The oil is filled to the top and I cant move the shifter.

The choke cable is seized as is the brake cable. It appears it has an aftermarket exhaust and the frame was butchered to make it fit.

I am doing a complete tear down to a bare frame to make this thing right.

Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you. Are the holes completely gone or just stripped? You may be able to retap or helicoil. The cables may be able to be soaked in PB Blaster to free up. And a new chain with removable links may be able to eliminate the tensioner. I would make sure that the motor is salvageable before you dump money into the machine. Good luck.

[Jmoozy27]

Yeh sure. Would be cool to see the differences if there is any. My 200 looks like most of the other 200s unless it's a tri-moto

I'm pretty sure the only 3 wheeled yami that wasn't branded with the tri-moto was ytz250. El camexicano was referencing your comment on the front disc brake. Tri-z was the first yamaha 3 wheeler with stock front disc brake.

[Yamawheeler]

Yes typo should be drum brake not disc. 1984 ytm 200el Yamahauler is a tri-Moto?

[Yamawheeler]

Yamahauler started it 83. But we are off topic.

[Jmoozy27]

Yes typo should be drum brake not disc. 1984 ytm 200el Yamahauler is a tri-Moto?

Yes, ytm is an acronym for yamaha tri-moto

[Jmoozy27]

Yamahauler started it 83. But we are off topic.

We are off topic but yamahauler is a nickname i.e. big red. It was yamaha's answer for the atc200e big red. Tri moto was the actual model name ie honda atc = all terrain cycle.

[Yamawheeler]

Oh nice that's good to know. I love understanding and learning about these machines the more I ride, read, and hear about them

[ddiggerr]

Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you. Are the holes completely gone or just stripped? You may be able to retap or helicoil. The cables may be able to be soaked in PB Blaster to free up. And a new chain with removable links may be able to eliminate the tensioner. I would make sure that the motor is salvageable before you dump money into the machine. Good luck.

Holes are half there, like they busted them open to remove the recoil cover.

Finally got the engine removed, it's damn cold outside in my unheated garage.

What I thought was oil turned out to be tranny fluid. Noticed that once it was drained.

All the fuel lines will be replaced as there all hard and brittle.

Once I crack the case open, I hope I don't find a big mess. Like an actual crack in the case or gears all busted up inside.

I still cannot move the shifter

[Jmoozy27]

Just checking but you do know that the wheels need to be moving somewhat to shift, I'm not saying that is your problem but it's worth a shot. Remember to do the cheapest stuff first. You can either jack it up and turn the wheels or just sit on the machine and rock it back and forth while attempting to shift.

[El Camexican]

Let's start with your engine. If it has 6 head bolts it is likely a 175. The 125 appears to have only 4 bolts. Use this site to search such things
http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003882df870021f60a098eb/cylinder

Good move tearing it down to the frame. It costs more time and money than some want to put into these things but it's the only way to make sure they will last and run without nagging issues as time goes on. Get that chain guard fixed too. If the steering head bearings are sacked look for a set of tapered rollers.

Use pre-mix until you're sure your oil pump works, or keep using pre-mix and don't worry about it.

Those trikes vibrate like hell. The mounts could have snapped off. Suggest you get some new material TIG welded onto the busted edges and fix the holes that are salvageable with helicoils, or threaded inserts. Then bolt the starter on and drill and tap the new holes. Are you near WPG? PM me if you need the name of a good TIG welder. A Adams Supply is a good place to get some fresh Metric hardware for the trike.

There are some great plastics threads on here. You can make them shine like new if you want.

Now the weather. You're from Manitoba. It's only -7C today. You should be wearing a T-shirt and sweating in the shade. Man up, or the guys from Saskabush will be laughing at you. God knows there getting tired of it after the season the Bombers had.

[ddiggerr]

Let's start with your engine. If it has 6 head bolts it is likely a 175. The 125 appears to have only 4 bolts. Use this site to search such things
http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003882df870021f60a098eb/cylinder

Good move tearing it down to the frame. It costs more time and money than some want to put into these things but it's the only way to make sure they will last and run without nagging issues as time goes on. Get that chain guard fixed too. If the steering head bearings are sacked look for a set of tapered rollers.

Use pre-mix until you're sure your oil pump works, or keep using pre-mix and don't worry about it.

Those trikes vibrate like hell. The mounts could have snapped off. Suggest you get some new material TIG welded onto the busted edges and fix the holes that are salvageable with helicoils, or threaded inserts. Then bolt the starter on and drill and tap the new holes. Are you near WPG? PM me if you need the name of a good TIG welder. A Adams Supply is a good place to get some fresh Metric hardware for the trike.

There are some great plastics threads on here. You can make them shine like new if you want.

Now the weather. You're from Manitoba. It's only -7C today. You should be wearing a T-shirt and sweating in the shade. Man up, or the guys from Saskabush will be laughing at you. God knows there getting tired of it after the season the Bombers had.

Haha. Yes I am in Manitoba. Winnipeg might have been -7, but Selkirk was still sitting at -21 with some wind chill. It was colder in the garage than outside. Cold metal was even worse.

For the plastics I have that covered from my last project (Big Bear 350).

For the head, is it possible the head is that of a 175 and the lower half from a 125? The VIN on the case appears to be from a yt125?

I have a welder lined up already once needed, but thanks for the info.

Oh, and without upsetting anyone from Manitoba, the Bombers are a joke. Haha.
NFL for me.

[ddiggerr]

Let's start with your engine. If it has 6 head bolts it is likely a 175. The 125 appears to have only 4 bolts. Use this site to search such things
http://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/a/yam/5003882df870021f60a098eb/cylinder

Good move tearing it down to the frame. It costs more time and money than some want to put into these things but it's the only way to make sure they will last and run without nagging issues as time goes on. Get that chain guard fixed too. If the steering head bearings are sacked look for a set of tapered rollers.

Use pre-mix until you're sure your oil pump works, or keep using pre-mix and don't worry about it.

Those trikes vibrate like hell. The mounts could have snapped off. Suggest you get some new material TIG welded onto the busted edges and fix the holes that are salvageable with helicoils, or threaded inserts. Then bolt the starter on and drill and tap the new holes. Are you near WPG? PM me if you need the name of a good TIG welder. A Adams Supply is a good place to get some fresh Metric hardware for the trike.

There are some great plastics threads on here. You can make them shine like new if you want.

Now the weather. You're from Manitoba. It's only -7C today. You should be wearing a T-shirt and sweating in the shade. Man up, or the guys from Saskabush will be laughing at you. God knows there getting tired of it after the season the Bombers had.


Hahaha .... Well Winnipeg might have been -7, however 20 min. North it was not. It was more like -21 with the added wind chill. It was colder in the garage than outside, and handling the cold metal made it worse.

Is it possible that I have the head of a 175 bolted onto a 125 lower half? The VIN on the engine is that of what appears to be a 125 and matches the VIN on the frame. I will find out shortly, I guess. Not sure how to know though.

Even with the oil pump, I always use a little pre mix. Habit I guess

I have a welder lined up when I need to tackle that portion of the rebuild, but thanks for the info.

[ddiggerr]

My posts aren't showing?????

[Yamawheeler]

Have you posted 10 times in new member forums?

[ddiggerr]

Have you posted 10 times in new member forums?

This makes 7

Now there showing????????

[ddiggerr]

210946

In the picture I am wondering if the circled bolt is suppose to flop around once the lock nuts have been removed. I haven't broken the clutch pack down yet. I have just removed the two nuts and the bolt feels like it is broken off somewhere.

I will be removing the clutch pack at some point today and trying to figure out what is jammed inside that is not allowing me to shift, while the trike was sitting still or moving it back and forth.

[ddiggerr]

I now have 90% of the engine apart. The crankcase cover is off and clutch plate side apart. When I tipped it over about 2 cups of what appeared to be a mix of oil, tranny fluid and water came out of the crankcase.

Tomorrow I will crack open the case to see whats going on inside as the shifter has definately got me puzzled why its jammed solid.

Pictures to follow

[ddiggerr]

Well it has been confirmed, this trike has been swamped. I don't think Yamaha had seashells as a stock part under the stator.

Crankcase comes apart later. Just finished getting all the Philips head screws loosened and removed. Heres a few pictures of where I am currently at .......

211080211081

[ddiggerr]

trike is now down to bare frame, minus the dirt. Complete gasket kit on the way and engine has been completely dismantled and cleaned. New bearings and seals in place.

Next thing to tackle is the frame. I noticed the front end was a little cockeyed. After closer inspection, it appears the frame has been broken and re-welded, pooooorly. This has resulted in a slight twist to the front end of frame.

I am now needing to cut the small tube running from top to bottom, located in front of engine, where it was welded in the wrong spot and straighten the frame.

I keep thinking happy thoughts as I get further into this project. I should have turned and ran away from this when I had the chance.... :(

[Jmoozy27]

trike is now down to bare frame, minus the dirt. Complete gasket kit on the way and engine has been completely dismantled and cleaned. New bearings and seals in place.

Next thing to tackle is the frame. I noticed the front end was a little cockeyed. After closer inspection, it appears the frame has been broken and re-welded, pooooorly. This has resulted in a slight twist to the front end of frame.

I am now needing to cut the small tube running from top to bottom, located in front of engine, where it was welded in the wrong spot and straighten the frame.

I keep thinking happy thoughts as I get further into this project. I should have turned and ran away from this when I had the chance.... :(

Too late now, your to far, gotta roll on three or we will continue to bump your thread until you reply with a video of a third gear wheelie on that little fire ball. The end result will be well worth it.

[ddiggerr]

Too late now, your to far, gotta roll on three or we will continue to bump your thread until you reply with a video of a third gear wheelie on that little fire ball. The end result will be well worth it.

Here is the start of straightening the frame. If you look closely, you can see the twist in the front end. After closer inspection, it has evidence of the front end taking a hard hit on the left side wheel stop.

211977211978

We are cutting away the wheel stop to see if we can twist it back. It didn't work. Tomorrow ... heat and a bigger bar.

[ddiggerr]

Well the frame is going to need some work to straighten it out.

In the mean time, I scored 2 more tri motos today. One is going to be strictly for parts, a 1981 yt125, and a running 1982 yt175.

My project list just doubled

[ddiggerr]

212103
Parts trike #1 tear down almost complete

[Yamawheeler]

Grab an old coffee can for the nuts and bolts that way you know those are for the trike.

[ddiggerr]

Grab an old coffee can for the nuts and bolts that way you know those are for the trike.

Everything was put into a bucket that was salvageable. The engine is basically a boat anchor. Crank was rusted to the case.

[Yamawheeler]

Brutal. Sucks these machine are left to rot

[El Camexican]

Selkirk eh? Go Steelers!!!!

The parts #'s for the 125 and 175 cases appear to be the same, but the connecting rods are different, so I doubt you have a 125 bottom end. Use this site to check such things: sitehttp://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/#/c/yamaha_atv_1982/parts

I've never been in side one of these engines, but that bearing with the slotted pin looks like something that should have some slop in it.

Did you go to "the Comp"?

[ddiggerr]

Selkirk eh? Go Steelers!!!!

The parts #'s for the 125 and 175 cases appear to be the same, but the connecting rods are different, so I doubt you have a 125 bottom end. Use this site to check such things: sitehttp://www.partsfish.com/oemparts/#/c/yamaha_atv_1982/parts

I've never been in side one of these engines, but that bearing with the slotted pin looks like something that should have some slop in it.

Did you go to "the Comp"?


Ya I noticed that. The case is the same from a 1980 yt125 up to a 1985 yt125 and that's including the 82-83 yt175. That slotted pin I think you mentioned is to adjust the clutch. Found that out after I did some reading.

"The Comp", no.

I do live a block away from it though and only go there when the kids have to be there for something going on with school. I am originally from Ontario.

[ddiggerr]

Coming togethet slowly.....
212438
212439
212440

Put the brakes back together and hooked up the brake lever.

Looking at the wiring next. How important is it to have the pilot light checker hooked up? What is it for anyways?

[ddiggerr]

She lives!!!!!

Trike #3 (1983 yt175) has been reborn. Had a slight fuel delivery issue with a stuck float. Gave the carb a couple wacks with the screwdriver and she started first pull.

Now to clean it up and weld the exhaust bracket back on and take it on a little run. Pics to follow

[ddiggerr]

Heres a couple pics.....

213164213165213166

[ddiggerr]

Motor all finished ... look how nice and clean she is ..

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