Brake Pad school....I need some advice

[ironchop]

Ok I tried to do a search first but couldn`t find anything definitive.

I spent a lot of money on offroad brake pads over a lifetime so I`m no stranger to the life expectancy of these things. I also know that longevity is directly proportional to the type of riding and the terrain along with other factors like water, sand, mud,etc.

I bought some spares before TF last year and I got four or five different brands of aftermarket pads because the deal was cheap....yeah, I know.... One set was EBC which lasted the longest but I can`t remember the specific compound. The problem was that every set I bought claimed to be "heavy duty" or "severe duty" but the result was a WIDELY different amount of longevity between, what seemed to be, similar compounds.

I like to save a few bux with pads because they are the fastest thing to wear out on any atv or dirtbike however I`m not sure I am saving any money by buying the cheapo sets.

I did get a set of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350775358191?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

It says sintered bronze and "severe duty" I hope these last longer than the last set of cheap pads which was about four hours at TF riding the back forty and the creek with no skidplate to keep the rotor out of the sand and mud.

Point of this thread............I need some opinions based on experience

1)What is the best pad compound to use and why?
2) best brand name?
3) are the more expensive pads worth $30+ ?

[RubberSalt]

I don't have any suggestions on pads, but I do have an idea. If you have hydraulic brakes, you could switch over the caliper from a dirt bike. The bigger pad for those calipers should give more life and probably better stopping power.

[ironchop]

I do have KX and CR calipers on it now front and rear. I also ordered a skidplate to get the rotor out of the dirt so that should help one major issue.

[bansheekx]

Sintered metal pads are the longest lasting in my experience. The carbon and organic pads can't handle any mud or sand at all. I've had good luck with the Tusk sintered metal pads from Rocky Mountain Atv, cheap and seem to last as long as anything I have tried.

[oscarmayer]

Metal pads tend to cause more heat to a rotor and can cause warping or will certainly cause faster wearing of the rotor. I would so much rather spend $20 on a set of pads than $75 and 2 hours on a rotor.


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[RubberSalt]

I agree with Oscar.

When I said dirt bike, I was tired. I meant sport bike/crotch rocket**.

[onformula1]

EBC or Braking are my favorite brands, I like organic 2 type pads with kevlar/carbon they stop great and wear well.

IMHO good brakes that stop are the second most important item on a trike or bike, Tires are first, but I live on the west coast where it's tough to sniff mud & water so wear is not much of a problem.

Sintered metal or Sintered Bronze pads will last longer with less stopping power, better in the mud.

If you are going through that many pads, that fast there can be a problem with the caliper piston not riding smoothly in the bore or a cocked piston, I am assuming this is not your problem and your trike is up to snuff.

If your brakes have a squeaking problem, bevel the leading & trailing edge on the pad material at a 45 degree angle 1/16". (you don't have to go crazy)

To correct your problem you need a- mud-proof solid disc rear rotor like this-

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/21586/i/moose-racing-mud-proof-solid-disc-rear-rotor

Problem over. Don't worry about them getting to hot, they have been tested/used by the best enduro riders in the world for 25+ years, If they last the ISDE 6-Days International Enduro, you will be fine.

For any brake set-up always bleed the brakes every 1-3 months (Depending on how much you ride) and use synthetic brake fluid with a rating of 300C or higher (Motul is may favorite) also only use synthetic high temp grease on the pins.

If you add stainless steel brake lines you will now have brakes set-up for 2015, not 1985.

[ironchop]

Come to think of it my Polaris has solid rotors and the pads on it do last much longer.

I keep my pins lubed but now that you mention it, probably not with the right grease. I know the calipers are sluggish in cold weather because cold makes that grease congeal and become sticky till it warms up

Also my lines are rubber. Rear is off a 400ex and the front off a modern dirtbike. I have been meaning to get braided stainless so I guess now I have an excuse. I have seen the mounting plate get bent which splays the pins and locks the caliper so Ill go check for that too and also see if those caliper pistons move freely.

Great replies guys. Keep 'em coming. Thnks

[onformula1]

Mobil 1 high temp synthetic grease with one tube of anti seize mixed in works great on everything except suspension seals and air filters, no more stuck brake pins, linkage or axles. Works great in cold or hot weather. Its a bit pricy at like $15 plus anti seize your at $20 bucks, but you get what you pay for.

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[ironchop]

Ive got a bottle of Anti Seize so all I would have to buy is the Mobil 1

[oscarmayer]

that is great stuff, I started using it and it works awesome! I wish they sold it in grease gun tubes, would have saved a new set of bearings on my son's quad.

[onformula1]

that is great stuff, I started using it and it works awesome! I wish they sold it in grease gun tubes, would have saved a new set of bearings on my son's quad.

I have it in a tube-

https://mobiloil.com/en/synthetic-grease/mobil-1-synthetic-grease

I add in one bottle of this, but that is just between you and me!

http://shop.noleenj6.com/product.sc?productId=8&categoryId=13

At $10 bucks plus shipping it is pricy but nothing is better! (I have tried everything) Downfall? try getting this slick teflon snot off your hands!

[oscarmayer]

on ebay, I just ordered a set of 12 pairs of carbon Kevlar rear pads for $32 shipped.
so buck up, order a 12 pair count and your set for the next 5 years!
15 min can save you 15% more wear on your rotors. ;)

[onformula1]

on ebay, I just ordered a set of 12 pairs of carbon Kevlar rear pads for $32 shipped.
so buck up, order a 12 pair count and your set for the next 5 years!
15 min can save you 15% more wear on your rotors. ;)
Have a link?

$2.67 a pair, shipped is crazy

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[oscarmayer]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/141076649149?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
$32.89 shipped.

Enjoy!!

these don to have metallic so they will not wear your rotor out like semi metallic stuff.

[onformula1]

wow, Thanks!

Thats insane.

[ironchop]

HA!

hells yeah Oscar.....thanks for that link!!!

[onformula1]

Here's a good article I stole from MXA, I agree with most of it. I would have type up something, but I have scary low typing skills these days, I cheat too much on a computer.

MANY PADS ARE ORGANIC


If the brake pad’s friction surface was made from a straight carbon-based, organic material, stopping performance would be poor and the brake system would quickly overheat. Actually, the pads wouldn’t do much more than polish the disc to an even, chrome-like luster (making straight-organic pads increasingly popular among the custom Harley elite). In order to find a suitable level of clasping force it was necessary to mix metal fragments into the organic base. This genre of brake pad is earmarked semi-metallic and has formed a strong following due to its consistent performance in dry and wet conditions.
Standard semi-metallic pads wear rapidly and when cheaply made, the slower wearing metallic material results in raised, hard blemishes on the pad surface that will severely groove the disc. It’s necessary for semi-metallic pads to be backed with an asbestos-like shield to protect against the transfer of heat to the caliper. Most European bikes come standard with semi-metallic pads.



ORGANIC PLUS TWO


It has become popular for the producers of performance brake components to blend additional carbon and Kevlar ingredients in with the standard issue metallic bits and organic base material. When the mix is correct the result is a pad that stays consistently bonded, has controllable friction and offers superior heat dissipation. Some mixes disperse heat so well that they can only be used for unusually dry MX conditions (or for road racing). Kevlar/carbon pad, for example, rarely attains a suitable operating temperature in the wet going.



METAL MEETS METAL


Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha use sintered metal pads. Sintered describes the process of fusing metal particles into one mass by the application of pressure and heat. It’s a methodology that Dunlop, parent company to DP, introduced to the aircraft industry during WWII. Sintered metal pads offer unparalleled wet condition performance.
ÿObviously, rubbing metal particles against a metal disc sounds like the perfect equation for high wear. Frankly, it used to be too, until producers of sintered metal pads began increasing the percentage of soft, copper-like compounds to ease the impact on the disc. DP also adds a little bit of graphite to lend a lubricative quality that reduces wear and pad squeal.
Sintered pads generally create more heat and operate in a hotter environment than semi-metallic blends.



PAD MAINTENANCE


Most of today’s ‘crossers use some kind of a metal tab that scrapes on the disc when the service limit of the pad has been met. This will generally be when only 2mm of material is left on the pad. Remember, this is an absolute service limit. Over a period of time pads will lose their performance from the endless heating and cooling cycles. The less remaining pad, the more the material will be compromised by heat. The factory teams won’t run pads longer than four races.
ÿBefore replacing pads, check if the rotor runs true. Warped, bent or heavily grooved rotors cause drag and will prematurely wear the pads as well as overheating the brake’s complete hydraulic system. Replace rotors that exceed the allowable runout listed in the service manual (usually anything in excess of 0.05mm). Don’t fret if the disc is discolored blue from excessive heat. As long as the disc runs true, performance will not suffer. Do, however, lightly scuff the binding surface of the rotor with emery cloth.
It’s a good idea to have a spare set of front and rear brake pads available at the races. Muddy and sandy conditions spell murder on pads, and some pro riders are lucky to get 30 minutes out of a set. Its best to start muddy motos with new pads.



MAKE YOUR BRAKES BETTER


Aftermarket brake pads can improve the braking on your bike, but only if you have conscientiously changed your brake fluid, bled the lines at regular intervals, checked the rotors and kept the system in good working order.

[onformula1]

Clean your rotors with carb clean with a green 3M Scotch brite pad.

Lift the trike wheels off the ground, spray the pad with carb cleaner, fold it over the rotor on both sides and pinch it with your hands you will be cleaning both sides at one time, spin the wheel around and you have a mini brake cleaning lathe. (Offering a buddy a beer to help) it makes it easier.

Your rotor will come out looking factory fresh and it will stop better.

[Dirtcrasher]

I find pads on EBAY OEM for 15-20$ and free shipping all the time.

Other than that, I only run sintered bronze pads but OEM seems to last the best.

EDIT - PLEASE don't buy those cheap pads. They do not last at all; I know someone who bought 30 pairs and they last a month......

[oscarmayer]

^ good point, but I have ran them and they lasted me a while. but I don't ride my brakes hardly ever so that may be why. for racing, those will work awesome for me as I can change the set each night if needed.

[ironchop]

.....Other than that, I only run sintered bronze pads but OEM seems to last the best.

EDIT - PLEASE don't buy those cheap pads. They do not last at all; I know someone who bought 30 pairs and they last a month......

Too late. I got 12 sets. I wasted four sets of 20$ pads on me and the boy's trikes. We did this in just three days but we rode like we stole them. I figure this way, I got the original sintered set and twelve more sets for the whole week this year at TF. Im still spending ten dollars less and get more pads than me and Tristan can trash that week.

[onformula1]

Keep your old pads too and take them to a brake shop that replaces the lining material, sometimes its cheaper and you can pick different compounds thats what I did before I had a sponsor.

Vintage builders do this when pads and shoes are discontinued.

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[oscarmayer]

^ great Idea, I did not think of that. not many places around my area now. :(