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BigRedGrizzly
06-10-2015, 01:00 PM
Hello all... I'm having a problem keeping my 200s running when it gets hot. Let me tell you all I have done so far.
-Carb
-cleaned with carb cleaner and compressed air- Multiple times
-rebuild kit- replaced pilot screw, float needle, spring, o-ring, and washer, and O-ring to manifold
-I could tell that it was running rich by the plug (it was wet) so I have the pilot screw 1 full turn to 3/4 turn out
-replaced low speed circuit jet- brand new
-I need to do the Barnett float height test with the clear tubing- I'll do that tonight
-Electric
-Brand new spark plug- spark looks weak- hardly noticeable in the dark
-replaced the coil
-stator I have not tested yet. Not sure how to. I have a multi-meter. Can anyone explain how to do it, and what values I should be reading? I have read in other threads that sometimes they get water and other crap up in there causing problems. Not sure if the stator would create my symptoms. I haven't pulled the fly wheel to look at it yet, but I can tell you when I got this this trike there was mud in every imaginable crevis. I'm just thinking, when one pulls the fly wheel how do you get it back on and lined up properly? Is there a woodruff key or something?
-Compression
-Haven't taken a reading yet but it feels good

:wondering Symptoms :wondering
It starts, no choke needed. Idles ok then begins to rev up. Almost like its getting lean. Then it begins to back fire (no apparent leak at exhaust manifold). I'm able to blip the throttle to keep it alive. As the engine gets hotter and hotter I have a harder time keeping it going. It wants to stall. Every second it begins getting less responsive to my throttle blip until it dies and I cannot get it started again until it cools down and I drain the bowl and start over again. I have made multiple adjustments to the pilot screw. When it's running it seems to run best at 1 turn out. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I'll be doing the Barnett test tonight. I'm beginning to think the float level may be to high and not allowing enough fuel to come back into the bowl at the rate it is being consumed..
Thanks all

BigRedGrizzly
06-10-2015, 07:15 PM
Did the Barnett test.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/10/2442680ee5b16ea97c9451fb1895a1c9.jpg

Checked the plug. Dry but a bit sooty.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/10/088de5d838af1fc2c5c3872e956d7aca.jpg

frankydodo
06-10-2015, 07:42 PM
My 185s did this last year. Starts fine, then start to back fire and dies. I changed the stator coil ( the one inside the flywheel ) and it fires first pull after. You can test the stator coil very easily

Unplug the black/red wire from engine plug.

Take a multimeter on resistance setting and check the wire coming from the engine ( not the one going to the cdi )

You need a value of 100-250 ohm between the black/red wire and ground.

Basically you put one lead on the black wore and the other lead on an engine bolt or dark green wire itself.

If it read nothing then your stator coil is shot and it will cost you 15$ to replace

BigRedGrizzly
06-10-2015, 07:51 PM
Hey there... Thanks Franky.... I'll be doing that tonight. I'll report back. In the mean time I have been tinkering and it seems to only want to start on full choke. Will not start on half or zero choke. It seems to drive ok on zero choke when there is air moving over the motor. When it just sits and is on zero choke it slowly dies.
This video illustrates the problem I'm having.
https://vimeo.com/130385444

This video illustrates the choke on/off issue. I had to put back on full choke to start up again.
https://vimeo.com/130385512

BigRedGrizzly
06-10-2015, 08:03 PM
I guess I'll have to order a fly wheel puller to get to those wires to test them. It's times like these when Amazon Prime pays off.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/10/a00467623762d62eef5100aa5c58bdbd.jpg

fieldy
06-11-2015, 12:29 AM
Blue\white spark? Does the fuel ever overflow out of the carburetor? Will the fuel fill the empty bowl fast with the fuel level tester on it, so you can see how fast it does?. Try to start it with gas cap loose?
There is a brass tube in the bottom of a bowl that a guy had a lot of trouble with recently, sounded like a lean condition and he believed that clogged tube was the problem. Might check it when you got the bowl off. Might not even have a tube in that bowl.....think that tube drains excess fuel from bowl, sounds lean yet flooding bowl. Float valve? Carb passage or pilot blocked....Just thinking.....relaying thoughts. Not an expert mechanic.

BigRedGrizzly
06-12-2015, 10:54 PM
Hey all... I think it's time to put this thread to bed for now. I stripped the carb and soaked itself and all the jets in Berryman Carb dip for 24+ hours.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/12/0d0ed03edae240421c8efee15ffbe71f.jpg
There must have been some build up junk in regions I could't thoroughly clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. After a rinse in hot water and a good blow out I reassembled and installed. The thing fired and idled nicely. Minor adj.'s to the pilot screw and idle screw and she was good to go.
Thank you all for your guidance and tips.

Here is a video of how it is running now.
https://vimeo.com/130604003

barnett468
06-13-2015, 02:08 AM
.

good to hear its going again

fyi, your spark plug is slightly rich . . i would go down 1 size on the main and install a new plug to check the color or try and clean most of the brown off of that one.

it also looks like there might be a shiny spot on the inside of the stator portion on the engine . . if so, it might be rubbing someting which it should bot be.