350x restoration advice

[MulletMan420]

Ok guys so i posted a forum a few months back back about m 350x having a screw in the engine. Well i have since torn it down to the frame and it has turned into a restoration project. It is going pretty well so far, but i do have a few questions. First, clear coating. I will most likely clear coat most of the parts to protect them more, but what do you guys think? I just bought some spray can Krylon clear coat, will that do the job? And shining up the triples, whats a good way to go about that? Steel wool has been doing a pretty good job, but wondering about some other methods. Then on to the bread and butter. My wrist pin has some wear and alittle slop, but the only replacement i could find was one specifically for a Wiseco piston. I was considering ordering the top end rebuild kit off of eBay(site a usually use) which should be around $120 or so. Is there a better place to get this? Or can i just buy a new wrist pin somewhere? Keep in mind there is a screw mark in the top of my piston, but it and the rings have a nice tight seat and no slop. Here is a video about it from my Youtube account. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrxfPM-Y8Sc This is my first restoration really, so any help from you guys would be awesome. I am looking to get this done as soon as i can so i can ride her again! Thanks!

[oldskool83]

this is bound to come up but restore means all 100% OEM parts...with out that you are just redoing the bike.

Do not use a wrist pin with play in it unless your going to just put this in the corner of the house and watch it collect dust.

[MulletMan420]

Thanks for being that guy....haha. After i found it had some wear it seemed like a good idea to replace, because i imagine this will be ridden alot

[BOB MARLIN]

Order the one size over (if you are still on the stock bore) Wiesco 10.25:1 piston kit. It will come with a new wrist pin, gaskets and rings. Have it bored and honed. If you pull the clutch cover off for some reason, be careful putting it back on. It's easy to break the decomp system inside.

On the tripples, if you are already using steel wool, you could step up to a soft wire wheel on a bench grinder if that's the look your going for. If you are going to polish them ,stay away from the wire wheel.

[MulletMan420]

Thanks for the help Bob! On the tripples, i am just looking to get them to shine as good as possible. I will most likely go ahead and order that piston kit today, thanks!

[MulletMan420]

Is this what i would want? http://www.ebay.com/itm/WISECO-HONDA-ATC350X-ATC-350X-350-X-81-00MM-PISTON-TOP-END-KIT-1985-1989-/151402897294?hash=item234050df8e&vxp=mtr

[knappyfeet]

Most of the aluminum parts were lightly clear coated (one coat). I only use PPG 2021 as it does not yellow and tends to enhance the prepped metal. What does not look OEM is a highly polished aluminum part clear coated. I've always prior to clearing sanded to 2000 grit and only if need be.....a light dry sisal polish.

[BOB MARLIN]

Is this what i would want? http://www.ebay.com/itm/WISECO-HONDA-ATC350X-ATC-350X-350-X-81-00MM-PISTON-TOP-END-KIT-1985-1989-/151402897294?hash=item234050df8e&vxp=mtr

Yes, that's it . But I don't see anywhere what compression that one is. It may be stock ratio, which is fine too, but the 350x's run real nice with the 10.25 to 1 compression.
Measure your cylinder first to make sure the 1 step overbore is the one you need. Just in case its been bored before.

[MulletMan420]

Ok thanks. I am pretty new to all this so its a learning experience. Is the 10.25 the diameter of it? I have always wondered what the numbers meant.

[barnett468]

.
if your piston is over sized, it will have a mark on top like .25 or .50 or .75 or .1.00 or .010 or .020 or .030 or .040 etc. . . the first four numbers are mm . . the second are thousands of an inch.

10.25 is the amount of compression it will provide which is an increase of around 1.0 which will make a small but definite noticeable increase in performance . . if your current rings are leaking compression then it will make a big increase in power feel simply because your old ones were leaking.

you can do a compression test with the engine warm before you take it apart now if you want so you have a baseline.

i would start a file and write down all the changes and how it performs etc as you go.

i would also use good oil in it that has lots of ZDDP and is designed for wet clutch engines.

here are the wiseco piston numbers . . you can buy direct from them or type the number into your search engine along with the words wiseco ebay and see what you get.

http://www.wiseco.com/ProductSearch.aspx


heres one i just found but the photo is completely wrong.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-Piston-Wiseco-4393M08150-Piston-Kit-/191538827561?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AATC350X&hash=item2c989a9129&vxp=mtr


here is the actual wiseco 10.25 piston

Wiseco

..........http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/pRsAAMXQlgtSvD~B/$_57.JPG
http://images.motorcycleparts2u.com/xmoto-photos-1408/160311-tr-wiseco-piston-kit.jpg
http://images.motorcycleparts2u.com/xmoto-photos-1408/160311-tr-wiseco-piston-kit-2.jpg




Wossner also sells them and they have a graphite anti friction coating but if you want one of these, contact them and ask what compression it is

..............................................http ://www.wossnerpistons.com/images/store/wossner-usa-inc/WOS-8598D050-1_LG.jpg
..............................................http ://www.wossnerpistons.com/images/store/wossner-usa-inc/WOS-8598D050-2_LG.jpg
..............................................http ://www.wossnerpistons.com/images/store/wossner-usa-inc/WOS-8598D050-3_LG.jpg

[djm0242]

Is OEM restoration what you want? Of course you don't want to lose the original feeling of nostalgia. But it is your bike. Clear coating in my opinion is going to look good for only a short time. It will peel and look terrible in a short time. I agree Wiseco 10:25 is a great option. More POWA! YouTube search "How to polish forks" you'll see that the big shops use a lathe and some diamond polish or a buffing polish for aluminum, the videos I've seen recently were of guys polishing by hand whilst fork tube spins on lathe.

[MulletMan420]

I am looking to go mostly OEM if possible. I mean i do have after market plastics and such, different tires. But i want it to be as close to original as i can. I have painted the majority of the parts with gloss black X-O Rust, and i am just worried about the quality of that.

[djm0242]

I usually use the satin black. It doesn't show dirt as easily. IMO the gloss blacks that Honda used we rarely shiny/glossy. So a semi gloss maybe. Satin definitely. I bet it'll turn out great.

[knappyfeet]

Clear coating in my opinion is going to look good for only a short time. It will peel and look terrible in a short time.

Not to be argumentative but I couldn't disagree more. The fact that they come from the factory coated is reason enough. If not they will look good only for a short time. The elements are nearly acidic to unprotected aluminum.....metal in general.

I have many years of coated aluminum items. Usually 2021 but some with 2k. 90% of the time perfect. The other 10 was probably me not proper prepping.

[djm0242]

So Knappy- how would I go about clear coating ppg 2021? Can of Krylon or Rustoleum? I'm attempting to be funny... I'm guessing you mix your own paints?

[knappyfeet]

So Knappy- how would I go about clear coating ppg 2021? Can of Krylon or Rustoleum? I'm attempting to be funny... I'm guessing you mix your own paints?

Yes I mix my own paints. I learned this skill long ago because refinishing anything is the most expensive part of a restoration...done properly. I mean I can put a stick of dynamite in the engine of my bike....blow it to bits...rebuild it and still be cheaper than a nice paint job. I'm not a rich guy so I needed to learn this skill to save on costs.

Just a question.....not to hijack his thread.....but I can tell by the amount of bikes and quads you own you have way more experience than I do.....what are your thoughts on an 82 Big Red? I'll probably start my own thread not to take away from his restoration.

[djm0242]

Pros: 82 BRs are great looking bikes.
Cons: chain driven, do they have reverse? It's 200cc's
I'd probably go with an 85-87. More features. I think the 82's were hardtails, right?

[MulletMan420]

Ok so i should coat them? Is ppg 2021 the brand of clear coat? I am brand new to this clear coating thing and i know basically nothing about it. Thanks for the help so far guys

[djm0242]

I think Knappy mixes and paints his stuff on a level that is not the "out of a can method" what he is capable of you may not be- I dunno.

[Dirtcrasher]

Mixing our own stuff and having the right sprayer and a water separator has to be perfect or you get crappy results. The start up cost is expensive; Thats why I found powder coating so easy. You can get all you need for 200$ and a free oven from Craigslist. Works great for me!!

[fieldy]

[QUOTE=MulletMan420;1373911]Ok so i should coat them? Is ppg 2021 the brand of clear coat? I am brand new to this clear coating thing and i know basically nothing about it.
Any decent air spray gun will work. Some clears will run easier than others. Running is the biggest issue until you get used to the coat thicknesses to use. You must buy a hardner and mix to spray clear. 2-3 coats about 10 minutes apart. Cleared already or basecoated surfaces get grey brited with water and ajax, rinsed with water, prekleeno, ready to go. On aluminum after polishing i would clean with soap and water then pre kleeno wax remover. Stop by an automotive paint dealer and they will set you up on product, mixing pail and screw on gun water separaters. They also will tell you about how to use product and tips. In a way you are buying information and advice. After you learn how to work with paints, then look for best prices.

[knappyfeet]

Pros: 82 BRs are great looking bikes.
Cons: chain driven, do they have reverse? It's 200cc's
I'd probably go with an 85-87. More features. I think the 82's were hardtails, right?

Thanks for the info. It dosen't have reverse but it is "clutch less" and that might be good for my wife. I just finished her 86 200X and I don't want her to beat it up. He wants $500 no title.......a little cautious.

I've found powder coating less expensive to have done professionally than base/clearing myself. However for clearing polished items, painting tanks, bodywork, etc....it's a nice skill to get accustomed to.

You can start with not a huge cash outlay. Go to Harbor Freight and get a cheap HVLP gun...or ebay and seek the advice of a paint store. I use DevilBiss guns but a cheapo is great for learning. TCPglobal.com is locally and they helped me many times learning this skill. A nice quality water seperator, regulator.....just about anything they will help you with.

Will you run? At first...of course. Is there mixing? Yes...but usually easier than cake boxes. In time your finishes will be great.

[MulletMan420]

Ok guys, so i ordered and received my Wiseco top end kit. New 10.25.1 piston, rings, top end gaskets, wrist pin, the whole works. So my question is, what is the usual bore that needs to be done? Comparing it to the original piston they appear to be identical in size(the wiseco is domed on top). Also, when putting it back together what are some other things that i should look for?

[BOB MARLIN]

The piston has to go with the cylinder the shop that's doing the bore and hone. The new piston needs to be bigger than the old one. When putting it back together make sure the rings going the right direction per instructions that came with the kit. There is a top and bottom to most rings and a certain position for the ring gaps.

[barnett468]

What do you mean by the usual bore?

If your new piston fits inside your cylinder, it is not oversize . . if this is the case and you want to bore your cylinder out, you need to get a bigger piston.

[MulletMan420]

Sorry I have been busy guys and was not able to get back right away. Basically i have a new 10:25:1 wiseco piston. 81mm i believe. It appears to be the same size as the original piston. Now the original still had a great right seat and no slop at all, i pretty much just got the kit to replace the worn wrist pin. The 10:25 is the compression of the piston right? So will i need to do any work to get the piston to work or will it go right in? Its my first rebuild guys, just want to make sure i do it right

[Jmoozy27]

You need to bring the piston and cylinder to a machinist and have him inspect and measure everything and he will tell you what you need. If the cylinder is good enough than he can at least home it for you. Do you have new rings?

[MulletMan420]

Yeah, I have a whole new top end kit. Piston, rings, head gaskets. Now if it just has a hone run through quick to clean it will it change the size to much? I have asked a few people and they are telling me different things

[MulletMan420]

Also, I ordered some fork seals and will be installing them when they come in. I am going to follow the manual, but any additional advice? And recommendations for good rear tires? Right now it has Holeshots but one of them is very worn down from being ran soft.

[Jmoozy27]

Yeah, I have a whole new top end kit. Piston, rings, head gaskets. Now if it just has a hone run through quick to clean it will it change the size to much? I have asked a few people and they are telling me different things

If you know for a fact that is the stock bore and the motor ran fine then you should be okay with a hone. But these are thing that a machinist will tell you free of charge. Take the cyl and piston to a good machinist and he will tell you everything. I do that before I start buying parts to save myself heartache.