Buckit14's 200x rebuild

[buckit14]

So I bought this 85 200x 5-6 years ago for $500. I rode it for a couple months until the kickstart return spring broke. After I realized the cases had to be split to fix it I lost motivation and it sat until a couple months ago. I dug the x out of storage and took it apart in my basement. In a couple weeks the motor work will begin but until then I'm working on fixing up the frame and some other parts.

The plan is to do a basic clean up and rebuild but set it up for mx. There isn't any 3 wheeler racing in my area so it won't be an all-out mx build. I mostly ride on a small track at a coworkers house so I want it to work well on a tight track with some small jumps. Any tips welcome!

Here's a picture of the project with my auto-x.

[Jmoozy27]

That sure is some beautiful property right there. What did you have in mind for mx mods? There is quite a few members that can help with info and services if desired. Do you plan on gusseting the frame?

[knappyfeet]

I love the 200X. Big Red Grizzly did a complete motor rebuild here not to long ago on I think an 85

[buckit14]

That picture was at my parents house. I live in town so I keep my machines there. Also the track I ride at is 2 houses down the road so it works nicely. The frame is getting gussets right now. I was hoping someone could recommend some affordable tires that work well. I was also wondering if i should have an extended swingarm and how wide the rear should be.

[83ATC185]

That picture could be a 500 piece puzzle!

[oscarmayer]

yes, swap a 350X front triple set onto it, and have onformula1 build you a tweaked rear shock. he will give you one hell of a deal on it too!

[oldskool83]

I prefer 83-84 250R front end. only need the fork set up nothing less unlike the 350x stuff.

[atc007]

You have a breathtaking property buckit.

[oscarmayer]

I prefer 83-84 250R front end. only need the fork set up nothing less unlike the 350x stuff.

yea but a good undamaged or corroded set of them forks are getting harder and harder to find now days. :(

[oldskool83]

ebay all day everyday lol. everything is the same about them as the 350X just the lower tubes. No one seems to know that lol. fork tubes are 100% the same between bikes. ALso does it really matter if fork tops are rusted some above travel areas? That's what electrical tape it for lol.

[onformula1]

ebay all day everyday lol. everything is the same about them as the 350X just the lower tubes. No one seems to know that lol. fork tubes are 100% the same between bikes. ALso does it really matter if fork tops are rusted some above travel areas? That's what electrical tape it for lol.
Every single piece on those forks are different except seals and bushings



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[oldskool83]

tubes are the same, p/n's or not people swapped them no issues. Either way we are just putting bullsh*t in this guys thread. If he does not need parts not sence turning a $500 200x into a $5,000 200x like some arm chair racers need on here.

[buckit14]

Thanks for the info guys. I tried to buy some 2nd gen r forks off a local but he's selling all his parts together and won't separate them. Unfortunately it's a bad time to buy parts from the states since our dollar is so low. I am on a fairly tight budget but I can modify and build parts myself. Anyway here is how the frame looks right now.

[buckit14]

My frame needed a couple repairs before adding any gussets. At the back of the frame on the left side a tube was cracked almost all the way. When I was hammering the swingarm bolt out it cracked the rest of the way. On the right side the grab bar mount was broken off and missing so I made a new one.

[DohcBikes]

I'll be watching this one!!

1985 200x is by far the best three wheeler ever made:welcome::w00t::lock::acr



The sky is the limit!!

[buckit14]

I removed one of the factory gussets and added a much stronger one. For the down tube gusset I copied an article from an old 3 wheeling magazine article. It should be strong enough for the riding I'll be doing.

[onformula1]

Nice work, nice welds, nice gussets you are talented!

[oscarmayer]

I happen to have a complete 350X front and rear shock setup with the Gold valves ready to run. New springs and everything. I am going to polish the bottom tubes and install new boots and them put them up for sale. I paid $780 for them to be rebuilt and that does not include polishing or the boots. I would take $600 for the set of 3 (front and rear) or $500 for the front forks shipped.


BTW nice Fab work and repairs! keep up the great work!!! I would on the front down tube, add a support from big the tube to the 2 smaller ones.

[buckit14]

Thanks for the offer. That sounds like a great deal but unfortunately I don't have the budget for that. Too many projects and not enough money.:cry: I'm going to have to settle for freshened up stock forks for now.

[buckit14]

The grab bar is done. It's nothing special but it'll do the job.

[Dirtcrasher]

I removed one of the factory gussets and added a much stronger one. For the down tube gusset I copied an article from an old 3 wheeling magazine article. It should be strong enough for the riding I'll be doing.


Those welds are spot on.

Is that a TIG. or a MIG??

[86125m]

If you are looking for cheap tires it doesn't get cheaper than these https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1602/17500/Duro-Knobby-ATV-Tire. Really there are no cheap tires trust me I know.

[oldskool83]

those round tires will offer no performace. you want flat 20's on the rear or smaller.

[DohcBikes]

Good used tires on wheels are the best value. Lots of modern take offs out there. Get darn near whatever wheels and tires you want then get the hubs to match. Usually for about 1/3 the cost of new, and new tires don't slide well at all.

[1979atc]

Those welds are spot on.

Is that a TIG. or a MIG??

Looks to be tig to me, and the welds are really nice.

[buckit14]

Thanks guys. Yes everything has been tig welded.

[buckit14]

I added another gusset to the frame at the bottom of the down tube. Also my bearings and seals came in and I have some questions. What fork oil should I be using? Since I'll be using stock forks for now is there anything I can do to make them work better?

[oldskool83]

I run weight in original forks with OEM springs. aftermarket springs I use 5 weight. I just run maxima. It's at about every dealer you walk into for a few bucks.

[DohcBikes]

Did you double-wall that downtube? If not, your new gusset is going to transfer the load and make it crack there even faster than it already does.

Edit: I see now that you did double wall the down tube. Good work.

[buckit14]

The frame and swingarm are painted. Now things can start going together.

[buckit14]

I polished the forks and triples. It isn't show quality polish but I plan on riding this thing alot so it won't stay nice for long. The forks also have new seals and atf.

[1979atc]

Looking good! Keep it coming.

[buckit14]

The top steering stem bearing I got from all balls was too tall so it stuck out of the frame and I couldn't get the nut in the top. It got put in the surface grinder and 0.100" was removed off the bottom of the race so it sat lower in the frame. Also I made an aluminum intake manifold since I only had 1 and it is on my auto-x.

[torker]

Man, you can fab stuff for sure. Start fabbing and selling. You'll be able to buy most of the things you need, no question...

TORKER.

[buckit14]

I get alot of help from some guys at work. I'm still learning how to do some of this stuff. Since I use the machines at work I can really make and sell things. I'm lucky they let me work on my projects.:cool:

[90nut]

Slightly off topic, do you work in a fab shop or what? Keep learning. Most people this day and age have no interest in making something. Just go buy it eh? Keep up the good work on both of your builds!!

[86125m]

With these old bikes its either make something to work or steel parts from other bikes and make that work. bucket14 your doing a bang up job nice work.

[buckit14]

Yes I work at a machine shop. I am a welder and my father is a welder but he can run any machine in the shop. I am very lucky to have access to mills, lathes, presses, CNC plasma cutter, welders etc. I just need learn how to use them all.:D

[90nut]

You do nice work. Love the 70 your building, keep up the good work! I'm just learning how to use a metal lathe....correctly. First thing I made mostly on my own was a custom front axle for my suspension 70. Fun fun!

[buckit14]

The 200x finally rolls. I'm not sure if I'll use these rear wheels or not. I have some stock 200x wheels but I kinda like these. I made some 1 1/2" spacers for the rear. I also modified my foot pegs so the are 2" wide with a kick up on the ends.

[83_200e_rider]

The 200x finally rolls. I'm not sure if I'll use these rear wheels or not. I have some stock 200x wheels but I kinda like these. I made some 1 1/2" spacers for the rear. I also modified my foot pegs so the are 2" wide with a kick up on the ends.

You fabbed your own foot peg cage? That is awesome man. The intake looks awesome too, if you can remake the 86 200x intake you can probably make a killing. They aren't cheap and way harder to find then the 83-85x. Nice work though looking forward to seeing it done.

[barnett468]

.
It would help to know if the track has jumps and bumps and if the turns are big and flat enough to pitch it sideways . The following is just some general info for budget minded builders.

I posted the specs below so you can easily see the differences between the bikes.

MODEL ................... WHEELBASE . WIDTH ..... FT WT DRY ..... RR WT DRY ...... CASTOR .. FT TRAIL . CARB

ATC 200X ...................... 47.6 ....... 41.3 .................................................. ...... 22.0 ? .... 1.38 ... 24 mm

ATC 250R 81 & 82 .......... 47.1 ....... 42.3 ..... 117.0 . 38.7% . 185.0 . 63.5% ...... 40.0 ....... 1.80" .. 27 mm

3" swingarm, 2" spacers* 51.1 ........ 46.3 ..... 126.5 . 41.8% . 175.5 . 58.2% ...... 30.0 ...... 1.80" ...... ?

ATC 250R 83 ................. 49.6 ........ 42.1 ..... 117.0 . 39.9% .. 176.0 . 66.4% ..... 30.5 ...... 1.30" ... 30 mm

ATC250R 84 .................. 50.2 ........ 43.1 ....... SHOWS WET WEIGHT ONLY ......... 30.5 ...... 1.30" ... 30 mm

ATC 250R 85 ................. 51.0 ........ 44.1 ..... 117.0 . 40.2% .. 174.0 . 59.8% ..... 21.0* .... 1.45" ... 34 mm

ATC 250R 86 ................. 51.4 ........ 44.5 ..... 116.0 . 40.1% .. 173.0 . 59.9% ..... 21 30* ..... 1.49" ... 34 mm

TECATE . .84 & 85 ......... 50.4 ......... 43.9 ........... N/A ................ N/A ............... 24.0 ...... 1.57".... 32 mm
...
TECATE . .86 & 87 ......... 50.6 ......... 44.3 ........... N/A ................ N/A ............... 24.0 ...... 1.89" ... 34 mm

* I think the 85 ATC250R castor number in the manual is for the steering head . I think both the 85 and 86 had staggered tripple trees and that the 30 number for the 86 is the castor of the forks themselves, ie. steering head 21 and forks 30.

TIRES, WHEELS, SLIDING, AND GROUND CLEARANCE

I would use 4 ply tires . It will tip less and slide easier if you use low profile tires . The following combos are good options for sliding and improved handling depending upon the terrain . Since your rims are only 8" wide, you could also use 10" wide tires instead of 11''s . 10"s will also make it slightly less tippy in the turns and slightly easier to slide.

18 x 11 x 8 ..... This will provide a moderately bumpy ride on rough terrain
20 x 11 x 9
22 x 11 x 9
20 x 11 x 10 ... This will provide a moderately bumpy ride on rough terrain but less bumpy than an18.
22 x 11 x 10

The budget 18" tires might not have much traction and will lower your bike so the frame can bottom out if you land hard off a jump, however, the lower the bike, the less tippy it will be in a turn and the easier it will slide.

In your particular case, if the track isn't too rutted, I would use the 20 x 10 x 8 tires . The tiny 18's are very limited in their use.

Yes the Kenda Scorpion tires that posted are cheap but they are a rounded profile tire which will make the bike a little more tippy . If you use those, i would get 20x10x8 because a 10 will have a slightly flatter face than an 11.

These are fairly cheap and have a decent tread design.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-20x11X8-Nanco-Dirt-Track-N606-All-Terrain-ATV-Tires-4-Ply-20118-11-00-8-/151343566408

http://www.atvtires.com/nanco-n606-atv-tires.html


REAR WHEEL WIDTH

That bike is ridiculously narrow so unfortunately your 1/2" spacers will basically make absolutely ZERO difference in how it handles . A wide axle is obviously the best option but they are expensive even for a used one . In your case, I would make or buy a 2" wide spacer but you must have a lip on the hub that you can center them on with almost a slight press fit otherwise the bolts can easily loosen and very bad things can happen . Also use US made grade 8 bolts if you do that . You can also buy aftermarket TUSK or Durablue TRX300EX or TRX400EX hubs and use those without spacers.


The Durablue hubs are extended outward 1' more than the stock TRX hubs which are extended around 1/2" more than the stock ATC200X hubs The Tusk hbs are extended 1 1/2" motre than the TRX's and those are the onles I would get for that reason.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tusk-Extended-Rear-Wheel-Axle-Hubs-Spacers-HONDA-TRX-400EX-1999-2014-trx400-ATV-/191819597382?hash=item2ca956c646:g:UQUAAOSwu4BVty6 I&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Durablue-Extended-1-Wheel-Hubs-Honda-TRX400EX-99-08-TRX400X-09-14-20-1334X-/351571283040?hash=item51db480c60:g:acUAAOSw~bFWO8K-&vxp=mtrm


WHEEL SPACERS .................................................. ............................................... $55.00 - $70.00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x2-Inch-Rear-Wheel-Spacers-Honda-ATC200X-ATC-200X-1983-1984-1985-1986-1987-/350959431201

http://www.amazon.com/Spacers-110-pattern-Yamaha-Polaris/dp/B0025U3G3G


WHEELBASE

That bike is very short which will work well on very tight trails which few people ride . If you are on a track where you can slide it a little, I would definitely get a longer swing arm . Since you said the track is tight, I would only go 2" to 2 1/2" longer . You probably won't find a new one so you can buy a new one from the link below or buy a used one on Ebay and bribe someone at your shop to extend it for you.


SWINGARM

You can get a custom one here for around $550.00

http://www.hreatv.com/ABOUT.html


FRONT FORKS

If you think the forks are slightly soft, I would run 10 wt oil and fill it 1/2" higher than the manual calls for and buy some pvc pipe just small enough to fit in the tubes and cut two pieces that are 1/2" long and install one in each tube on top of the springs.


RIDE HEIGHT

If you don't use all your suspension on the track, I would lower the bike some . Using tires that are smaller in diameter than the stock ones will do that . If your frame starts to hit the ground, you can install a short spacer like maybe 1/2" long on the shock shaft between the shock eye and the bottoming cushion . Take the short spring from the top of the forks and install it on the damper rod.


REAR SHOCK

If you install a longer swingarm you will need to increase the preload on the spring slightly . I would adjust it so the bike sags 1/3rd of the total travel with you sitting on it then increase the rebound damping . If it is still too soft, increase the compression damping to the max . If it is still too soft, you need a stiffer spring and modified shock valving.

There are several places you can get springs ans shock work done . Below is one of the best and their prices are reasonable starting at $100.00 to disassemble, clean, and reassemble a shock . They also have a list of rider feedback a mile long that they can also refer to, to get your shock set up just right . Call a couple shops and use the one you like the best.

.................................................. .... NANCO DIRT TRACK

......................................http://www.atvtires.com/media/tires/large/nanco-n606-dirt-track.jpg

[buckit14]

Thanks for all the great info. The track I ride does have a couple small jumps, bumpy sections and ruts. I will either be running 20" tires on 9" rims or 18" tires on 8" rims. My wheel spacers add 3" to the width. If I need more I'll get some 400ex hubs. Now onto some progress. I made an adapter so I can use a 350x front fender on a 200x. The fender had some holes in the front so I plastic welded them.

[buckit14]

It's been a long time since my last update but work is still being done. I picked up some cheap 18x8.5 turf tires to try out. I'm hoping they'll help it silde a little better.

[Dirtcrasher]

the top steering stem bearing i got from all balls was too tall so it stuck out of the frame and i couldn't get the nut in the top. It got put in the surface grinder and 0.100" was removed off the bottom of the race so it sat lower in the frame. Also i made an aluminum intake manifold since i only had 1 and it is on my auto-x.

beautiful intake!!!!!!

[ironchop]

^^^ I agree. I was proud of making my own as well until I saw his. Those welds!

Buckit14....from one machinist/welder to another, nice fab work!

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[oscarmayer]

Barn, you gave me a headache again...


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[buckit14]

Here are some pictures of the finished trike. I still have some plans for it but for now I'm calling it done. If I do anything else with it ill update the thread but for now ill be working on my aluminum 70. The silver trike in the last pic is my pocket trike made from a pocket bike using a pocket quad swingarm. Thanks for all the help and support.:beer

[knappyfeet]

Very nice.

I hope my X turns out as nice as yours.

And your little pocket trike?............awesome!

[camy]

How's that 200x is today? 4 years later?

[BarnBoy]

Doesent look like he gets on here much anymore. He is active on Instagram, I messaged him and he says he still has it. Maybe he'll chime in at some point...looks like a nice bike.