86 cr250

[bkm]

I wasn't exactly in the market for this bike, but I couldn't pass it up for the price. These things never come up for sale around here and if they do, they're usually basket cases. Not to mention I've always thought the 86 cr is one of the best looking motocrosser's ever made. New nickasil cylinder/piston, but tge head has been cut for race gas so I'm going back to a stock head. I don't need nor want another bike that runs on 110, one is enough.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/72028862f26137a781d317c30b0a5838.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160210/871d1e62aea75647f97a91be80dd06ba.jpg

[YTZ drew]

A friend of mine used to have an 86, and bought a brand new '02. I rode them both and thought the 86 was a better bike! I love the 85-87 cr's. Nice score!

[bkm]

This is a pretty cool overview of the 86 and how it stacked up against the competition of the time. The 86 was a "Works" inspired bike due to the production rules enacted at the beginning of the 86 Motocross season.

http://www.pulpmx.com/stories/look-back-old-moto-mags/gps-classic-steel/gps-classic-steel-81-1986-honda-cr250r

[Red Rider]

This is a pretty cool overview of the 86 and how it stacked up against the competition of the time. The 86 was a "Works" inspired bike due to the production rules enacted at the beginning of the 86 Motocross season.

http://www.pulpmx.com/stories/look-back-old-moto-mags/gps-classic-steel/gps-classic-steel-81-1986-honda-cr250r
Awesome read! Thanks for the link.

[bkm]

I thought it was pretty cool myself. I've honestly always wanted an 86 CR mainly because my 250r is an 86, and I always thought it would be cool to have the two wheeled version of my Trike. Or maybe I already have the three wheeled version of the CR? Lol

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[Red Rider]

...Or maybe I already have the three wheeled version of the CR?That's why I call my 250R, what I do. :)

[onformula1]

bkm, I have tons of specs and set ups for those, I raced CR 125/250/500 from 1983 to 1993, then jumped ship to Kawi.

It needs a stock CR rear fender, that looks like a universal Acerbis.

[bkm]

bkm, I have tons of specs and set ups for those, I raced CR 125/250/500 from 1983 to 1993, then jumped ship to Kawi.

It needs a stock CR rear fender, that looks like a universal Acerbis.
Good eye sir. I have one in my shopping cart on Rocky Mountain ATV as we speak. Along with the front and oem number plate.

[bkm]

I think my first two purchases other than new tires are going to be a flywheel weight and stock cylinder head. I've heard the weight really smoothes out the power on these bikes.

[atc300r]

Im also a big fan of the early cr 250s. That bike matches the 85-86 atc very well.Congrats on a great find.

[bkm]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160308/1c4668d84a0507e0e8fd1236d81cdb9e.jpg

I've been slowly adding some cosmetic upgrades and I'm getting ready to do some carb/intake upgrades as well.

[Jmoozy27]

Looking sharp!!!

[TrikeGarage]

awesome!! looking great

[onformula1]

That is looking good!

You need to beef up the chain guide for the woods, I will check I may have a good chain guide with the aluminum reinforcement plate. I know I have a nice brake line and master cylinder, that line looks tweaked.

Did you buy a new number plate?, the stocker was orange with back grounds.

[bkm]

Awesome, thank you. The number plate is what Honda now sells. They no longer offer the orange plate.

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[onformula1]

Why am I not surprised? Honda is dropping tons of parts across the board and at 10K for a new bike the vintage marked has become HUGE.

It looks great, that's a 1991 CR250 plate.

[cr480r]

I love the forks on these bikes.

[El Camexican]

Getting there!:beer

If you're looking for a place to spend some money consider upgrading to a set of 1-1/8" bars. Your arms will love you for it.

[onformula1]

Getting there!:beer

If you're looking for a place to spend some money consider upgrading to a set of 1-1/8" bars. Your arms will love you for it.

I don't think Ricky Johnson or David Bailey would agree on this vintage bike. :lol:

The Renthal gun metal grey high CR bend was all the rage.

Nico, you have to remember this bike has better forks than your Katoom. Boom!!!, I am hear all week folks. :lol: (Nico just joking,,, not really) :lol:

[bkm]

The seat is going to Hi-Flite for a professional install because I did a hack job on it. I'm thinking of going blue/orange tiger striped cover. I really need to find a clean subframe. This one has been broken and rewelded once upon a time. Rob Selvy is doing a custom taper bored carb for me right now.

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[onformula1]

The seat is going to Hi-Flite for a professional install because I did a hack job on it. I'm thinking of going blue/orange tiger striped cover. I really need to find a clean subframe. This one has been broken and rewelded once upon a time. Rob Selvy is doing a custom taper bored carb for me right now.

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I always say, make it your own. But I really like this look-

http://www.pulpmx.com/stories/look-back-old-moto-mags/gps-classic-steel/gp%E2%80%99s-classic-steel-14-rick-johnson%E2%80%99s-1986-honda-rc

Taper bored carb?, more info, PJ?

[bkm]

That bike is beautiful. The carb is a newer Mikuni TMX off of a 2001-newer cr250. He says it picks up dramatically down low where I want it, over the pwk carbs.

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[bkm]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160309/2020ef89698a584740fc3a8066bceff7.jpg
This is right out of the cnc machine ready for the lathe work.

[onformula1]

That bike is beautiful. The carb is a newer Mikuni TMX off of a 2001-newer cr250. He says it picks up dramatically down low where I want it, over the pwk carbs.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Well, I am just going to stay quite... I respect Rob a lot.

[onformula1]

My PWK mods, a carb for every season...LOL228782228783

[bkm]

I'm a big fan of the pwk. I had both the TMX and a 39PWK sitting here. He said send him the tmx. According to Rob, the tmx with the same mods has outperformed the pwk throughout the entire range on the dyno.

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[onformula1]

Hey, that's cool everyone has their favorite I am more of a "K" or "D" guy. I did notice that Mr. Cleans 200r has a Rob tuned Mikuni.

Note- do not Google- 2001 cr250 carb ....Haha, just playing around. :lol: Your in good hands, just goofing around.

[bkm]

Haha, I was skeptical at first as well, and may not be pleased when I get it back, but seeing others use it on his engines, I figured I'd give it a whirl.

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[The_Steve_Man]

I run a TMX on my R. Not taper bored or anything but to me it has way better throttle response and smoother power right off the bottom.

[cr480r]

consider upgrading to a set of 1-1/8" bars. Your arms will love you for it.

My experience has been quite opposite. Mine are pro taper brand. They were so stiff that they made the forks feel like junk. After a few rides I put them on my trike and went back to 7/8" renthal on my KX. May revisit the 1-1/8 in Twisted Engineering flavor at some point.. My aging wrists can't take the abuse of stiff bars. Maybe I just need newer bikes...

[bkm]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160311/45f4abb450b7f6517110f60cc329d305.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160311/9c2a37338dee622633465167e48d75d1.jpg

I found an old maier rotor guard I bought a few years ago to see if it would work on a Tecate, but it wasn't even close. I think it was for a late 80's early 90's kx125. It fits the CR perfectly, but says kx on the side. I think I can make some "vent" holes where the KX logo is to hide that. I also went with the yellow number plate backrounds. I wanted something a little bit different than white. The jury is still out about the disc guard?

[onformula1]

Well, you do have matching grips.

looking good.

Back then the 125 had black backgrounds, 250 white, 500 yellow, I remember it like it was yesterday.

Back then, for cooling the guards were cut off around the caliper

[oldskool83]

That's a dirtbike, nothing like today's hardline stuff. I've always wondered what that the older CR's wouild look like with the last genderation CR/CRF front fender and a white year fender.

[ironchop]

The jury is still out about the disc guard?

The color is period correct.

Hideous, but period correct for sure.

I blame Miami Vice and surf shop clothing for the neon/hot pink/chartreuse craze in the late 80s. I was not immune either.


Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[bkm]

Going back to my stand-up jet ski days, I absolutely love it. Lol I know it's not for everyone though.

It reminds me of the good ole day's, I just don't want it clashing with the orange too much.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[bkm]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160312/b867878b3faf174a9fe64ad64ea2a280.jpg

I got the razor out and did some really quick vent holes to cover up the KX logo. It's still noticeable if you knew it was there, but 99 percent wouldn't think twice about it. I still need to do some finish work.

[ironchop]

I miss my camo Panama Jack painters cap with flaps

The Haro plate on my Redline 500A was chartreuse and my RL48 had lavender Skyway mags and Uni seat. I still had my CR80 then and it had hot pink stuff all over it too.



Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

[onformula1]

The color is period correct.

Hideous, but period correct for sure.

I blame Miami Vice and surf shop clothing for the neon/hot pink/chartreuse craze in the late 80s. I was not immune either.


Sent from my Z998 using Tapatalk

I always thought it all started with the body builders on muscle beach- Day glo gennie pants with elastic bottom cuffs, matching fanny pack, tank top & skull cap. :lol:

[bkm]

Have any of you bike guys used on of those universal clamp on side stands? I really want a kickstand so I don't have to find a tree every time I stop to set the bike up against.

[onformula1]

Have any of you bike guys used on of those universal clamp on side stands? I really want a kickstand so I don't have to find a tree every time I stop to set the bike up against.

I had a Malcolm Smith bolt on kick stand on a CR125 that I would bolt on for wood riding, it worked great.

I doubt anyone makes anything for a 1986 they days, but I looked around and some of the kick stands for the 1988 and up CR's should be easy to adapt since they bolt to one sub frame bolt and the bottom chain roller bolt.

[bkm]

I think I'm going to try and adapt a kdx200 stand. I can make a threaded aluminum block easy enough that I can weld to the swingarm. Then I can try out my spool gun that I've never used.

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[El Camexican]

My experience has been quite opposite. Mine are pro taper brand. They were so stiff that they made the forks feel like junk. After a few rides I put them on my trike and went back to 7/8" renthal on my KX. May revisit the 1-1/8 in Twisted Engineering flavor at some point.. My aging wrists can't take the abuse of stiff bars. Maybe I just need newer bikes...

The final word is saving your arms and shoulders is Flexx

http://slavensracing.com/shop/fasst-flexx-handlebars/

No they aren't cheap, but the last time I buggered my shoulders it took over 60 days to recover. I divided the cost of the bars and specialized accessories they need by the days I was in pain and asked myself if I there was any one day I wouldn't have paid $10 bucks to make the pain go away. The answer was a resounding "NO"

[bkm]

I haven't personally used these, but those that have rave about them. I honestly have considered bucking up, but I need to rein in the spending on this thing.

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[onformula1]

The final word is saving your arms and shoulders is Flexx

http://slavensracing.com/shop/fasst-flexx-handlebars/

No they aren't cheap, but the last time I buggered my shoulders it took over 60 days to recover. I divided the cost of the bars and specialized accessories they need by the days I was in pain and asked myself if I there was any one day I wouldn't have paid $10 bucks to make the pain go away. The answer was a resounding "NO"


I think there is some confusion here when you said 1 1/8" bars I believe he was thinking Pro Tape type bars.

Keep in mind the Flexx bars come in 7/8" too.

Some people love those Flexx bars, I am not one of them... Mike wants to run them on the BAJA 350X in BAJA next year, I am trying to figure out a quick release bar system for when it is my turn to race. :lol:

[El Camexican]

I haven't personally used these, but those that have rave about them. I honestly have considered bucking up, but I need to rein in the spending on this thing.

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Trail rides without air shouldn't be a big deal with standard bars. So far two friends of mine have gone to the Flexx bars and they both love them, but the best way I can explain them is to say that you can't tell the difference between standard bars and these until AFTER the ride, or in my case, the next morning. An MX racer might notice a difference during a moto, But I can't tell while riding. If you're not riding steady in rocks, or for less than 3 hours I wouldn't spend the money.

There is a more economical option that I put on my backup bike. It allows the use of the Scotts damper and offers some bar flex.

http://www.enduro360.com/2014/01/24/products-tested/brp-rds-bar-mount-system-review-ktm-450xcf/

[onformula1]

bkm, if you want more flex with your current system just remove the crossbar, I have seen it before.

[El Camexican]

I think there is some confusion here when you said 1 1/8" bars I believe he was thinking Pro Tape type bars.

Keep in mind the Flexx bars come in 7/8" too.

Some people love those Flexx bars, I am not one of them... Mike wants to run them on the BAJA 350X in BAJA next year, I am trying to figure out a quick release bar system for when it is my turn to race. :lol:

At the risk of showing my ignorance I always considered 1-1/8" bars to mean the mounting base is 1-1/8" an then tapering to 7/8". Is there another configuration?

You don't like the Flexx bars? Too spongy?

[El Camexican]

bkm, if you want more flex with your current system just remove the crossbar, I have seen it before.

Good point, stock Tri-Z bars didn't have a cross bar, but I always assumed that the wider mounts make up for the lack of a cross bar. In saying that I haven't seen a lot of used 7/8" bars that aren't bent:lol:

[onformula1]

At the risk of showing my ignorance I always considered 1-1/8" bars to mean the mounting base is 1-1/8" an then tapering to 7/8". Is there another configuration?

You don't like the Flexx bars? Too spongy?

I am saying they make Flexx bars in 7/8" that will save you from buying new bar mounts on a 1986 CR

The flexx bars feel to me to have a hinge in the wrong area of the trike or bike. It's a personal thing, I am picky- I use the same bar bend, throttle, front master cylinder, clutch assembly and kill switch on every bike, trike and quad. Now that I think about it....It's a Mental thing! Thanks, Bruce. (Inside joke)

[bkm]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160323/0e79531552c10a9e7600d064e5b36f71.jpg
Old oem foot peg.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160323/e52094c7bf77df3d4f3f03c8ecb08cf8.jpg
New yzf426 foot pegs. They needed a little trimming and a new hole drilled for the spring to set in, but required no special tools other than a hack saw and bench grinder.

[onformula1]

Very cool, I am amazed at how few foot peg designs there are, some will fit 5 different brand of bikes, spanding 30 years.

Nice up grade, your arches with thank you.

Back in 1986 all the pegs were skinny, we had to buy extensions from MXA in England and TIG them on.

[oldskool83]

I put YZ426F pegs on a 94 YZ250. Just grind a little off and they fit nearly everything. Decently built too.

[El Camexican]

I don't know if they sell frame guards for that bike (sorry, couldn't help but notice). If they don't you can cut them out of a red plastic oil jug. I made a set for a DR-Z 400 for my buddy out of a Prestone jug and put some Thor decals on for good measure. Still looked good three years later when he sold the bike.

229612

[cr480r]

Some people love those Flexx bars, I am not one of them...


The flexx bars feel to me to have a hinge in the wrong area of the trike or bike. It's a personal thing, I am picky

I completely agree. My buddy has 5 or 6 sets of them.. He loves them and puts them on everything. I didn't like them because of the hinge action, and they are kinda heavy. I really want to try the TE bars , but so far I've been too cheap to pull the trigger on them..

http://twistedengineering.com/tshop/index.php?id_category=5&controller=category

[El Camexican]

I completely agree. My buddy has 5 or 6 sets of them.. He loves them and puts them on everything. I didn't like them because of the hinge action, and they are kinda heavy. I really want to try the TE bars , but so far I've been too cheap to pull the trigger on them..

http://twistedengineering.com/tshop/index.php?id_category=5&controller=category

I wish I had the $ to put them on everything. My shoulders love them.

[bkm]

I don't know if they sell frame guards for that bike (sorry, couldn't help but notice). If they don't you can cut them out of a red plastic oil jug. I made a set for a DR-Z 400 for my buddy out of a Prestone jug and put some Thor decals on for good measure. Still looked good three years later when he sold the bike.

229612
Are you saying the frame on this machine may show slight signs of boot rub? I don't think anyone really makes too much for this bike anymore. I was hoping to score some old maier frame guards, but I haven't been able to locate any and honestly the worn frame paint is the only thing really holding this bike back from looking really good. I almost tore it down right after buying it, but it would be nice to actually ride something for once.

[El Camexican]

Are you saying the frame on this machine may show slight signs of boot rub?

Not at all, but a tetanus shot before your first ride may not be a bad idea;)

Sorry, I have a disorder. I've been known to wash rental cars and top them off with Premium fuel before I return them. I take rags into the desert and wipe dust off my bike with the last drops of water in my Camelback and polish rare silver coins. I need help, I know it, please ignore me.

[onformula1]

bkm, I am sending you a couple of parts that will help 1 of the 3 rubbbed areas, per side.

[bkm]

bkm, I am sending you a couple of parts that will help 1 of the 3 rubbbed areas, per side.
Awesome, thank you. I ordered a new chain slider tonight. I think my first ride is going to be this weekend. I'll have my new gopro ready to record the fiasco. I haven't been on two wheels in over 5 years.

[onformula1]

Awesome, thank you. I ordered a new chain slider tonight. I think my first ride is going to be this weekend. I'll have my new gopro ready to record the fiasco. I haven't been on two wheels in over 5 years.

Do you have a aluminum guard that goes on the chain guide, it is important or a rock will rip off the guide.

[bkm]

Do you have the aluminum guard that goes on the chain guide, yours seems to be missing?
If it's not on the bike it's missing. Do you happen to have a picture of one so I can hunt it down?

[onformula1]

I have a couple, I will polish them up because they are scratched up...Proof that they work..LOL.

I will ship them to you.

[onformula1]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160327/c6265590f61db3d3c152d318a848ec3b.jpg

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[bkm]

I just looked and they are not on there. Thank you so much.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[onformula1]

No problem, they have been sitting in a box for 20+ years, I hope they fit, we shall see.

I really should have labeled stuff. :lol:

It is amazing what you can forget after 30 years.

[onformula1]

Sorry, bkm those are for a old KX and they are different, I know they came stock on the 1987 CR and up, we would just fab up a plate or use a Malcolm Smith set-up, but that will be hard to find they days.

I still have some stuff for ya.

[bkm]

No problameo brother

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[bkm]

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160401/0c56803e0b174e705edadd3fd854fb7e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160401/f965032291099866c524a0e019a17e6e.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160401/c4166d32ef8bb89d30b6b8b9b6ddecf5.jpg

Looks like tomorrow will be my first real ride. After correcting some issues with a couple of new parts, it runs really good. I love the flywheel weight so far. You can almost come to a dead stop around a corner and not have to pull in the clutch. The torque on tap is really nice.

[El Camexican]

Have fun!:beer

[bkm]

Yesterday was a great day. I kept the shiny side up and rubber side down. The bike performed okay. It was loading up bad in the trails, which was 90 percent of the riding we did. I'll have to lean it out across the board just a tad.

The riding position isn't optimal for the way I ride. I ride slow and on the seat most of the time. This bike likes to be ridden standing up. It's a racer trying to be used as a trail bike, so I understand it's me trying to put a square peg into a round hole.

All in all, it was a successful and fun trip on my 30 year old scooter.

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[El Camexican]

Nice! You'll get used to the standing part again, takes a couple rides. Now did the gearing feel?

[bkm]

Gearing was okay, I think if I dropped a tooth on the front it will keep me in power a little better.

I rode my buddies 13' KTM 300 and I probably shouldn't have done that. I want to sell everything now and buy one. It was amazing. He had the heavy spring in and it had so much power it was unreal.

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[bkm]

https://youtu.be/ogBEdLTNgm0


This was the end of the day heading back to the pits. I'm going to compose a video of me killing it and subsequently MF'ing and GD'ing about 30 times throughout the day.

[onformula1]

So, are you looking for more power?, more low end?

[bkm]

The CR has plenty of power. I think adjusting the carb will help considerably with the low end. It was loading up pretty bad. The KTM was just an awesome machine. It's hard to compare the two fairly. Are the powervalves on the CR noisy? It seemed like they made a little rattling on de-acelleration.

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[onformula1]

The HPP is only loud if they are not adjusted correctly because the exhaust gases push them in & out.

You can also tune the HPP valves for more low end with a few tricks, I also have 5-6 mods for more low end that are pretty easy to do.

The KTM is very impressive, but a good running CR even from 1986 will hang with it no problem once it is tuned.

[bkm]

That's pretty much what I'm looking for.

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[onformula1]

Ok, I am digging for my specs.

Did you put a stock head on it? or find out if that head was modded?

[bkm]

Ok, I am digging for my specs.

Did you put a stock head on it? or find out if that head was modded?

The stock head was milled a good amount, so much to where they had to run a thicker trx/atc 3 piece gasket to keep from having to run diesel lol. I put a box stock head back on it with oem head gasket. When I had the head off the ports are untouched with a fresh chromed bore and new piston.

[onformula1]

There are many things you can do to that motor for more low end, here are a few some require you to remove the head and/or cylinder so it maybe best to wait for a re-ring, you can re-ring those pistons 2-3 times with no issues and the power can be felt every time.

When you take off the cylinder head you will notice the spark plug is recessed in the head, which causes hot spots & detonation from the exposed threads along with cold fouling of the spark plug, which also feels like a jetting issue plus you will have quicker throttle response. The top of the head gets turned down on your lathe by 3mm. If you do this mod there a a couple of ways to chuck it up and one is very easy, let me know.

Ditch the stock reeds for LT Carbon Tech reeds- http://www.carbontech.com/motor/honda.html and don't use the factory reed stops, they block the Boyesen boost ports.

A reed spacer works well on this motor for more low end.

Fill the intake side of the transfer ports with epoxy to redirect the flow for more low end. (I have the exact specs for this, it is easy)

Use a 1990 CR250 head gasket for more compression and more low end without having to run race gas. They are .030 in. thinner.

Retard the ignition timing- all you have to do is file the bottom hole by 1mm using a rat tail file and rotate the stator plate counter clockwise.

I am not sure what size of carb you are running, but a 36mm gives a ton of bottom end. You can make a sleeve out off aluminum or Delrin for the carb you have.

A 6mm torque spacer made of aluminum at the head pipe works well for more low end, just use your lathe.

Make 1-2mm spacer and 1-1mm spacer for the clutch side of the HPP spring to shim it for more low end, now you have 3 settings to plays with 1mm, 2mm and 3mm by stacking the shims.

Let me know if you have any questions.

[bkm]

Wow, once again awesome info. Being a member of the inside clique sure has it's prevlidges. Lol

I'm running a boysen rad valve with carbon reeds. I also have a v-force 3 reed block I can use if you think that gain over the rad valve? I now remember you telling me about the 6mm exhaust spacer.

The carb is the Selvy tmx 38 that has been taper bored, and other than being rich and loading up at very low speeds, the throttle response is great. I also have a reed spacer from my atc sitting on the shelf I could try.

Head gasket is actually a 89 or 90? It is the thin single metal gasket.

I will do the ignition mod as well. I was going to pull the cover and check the weight locks, so this will work great.

I have a brand new bridgestone to put on the rear. The oem dunlop is getting bald and hard as a rock.

Thanks brother once again!

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[El Camexican]

Being a member of the inside clique sure has it's privileges.

Time to start using a secret symbol. Which do you prefer?

229897 229898

[onformula1]

I would stick with the RAD valve, but I would prefer the stocker with those reeds, but it is close, so no worries.

If you have a 38mm taper bored carb., then it is 38mm to probably 40mm ish, I would try a sleeve you can make one very easy with your talents, I loved the 36mm on a CR for low end, it's Awesome!

You have the good head gasket then.

The OEM rear tire was a Bridgestone M22 which was great at Carlsbad MX and asphalt and nothing else, so any modern tire will be a great improvement!

For the ignition mod, while you are in there you can file the opposite way way 1mm and have some fun playing around with the timing, advanced 1mm will rip your arms off..lol

A spark plug one heat range colder can be a nice improvement depending on the setup- BR9EG, give that a try, it works more than it doesn't.

Those bikes sucked sand and dust between the air boot and the air box and should be sealed with 3M weather strip adhesive. Twin Air make a great filter too.

The reed spacer works well on that engine.

[onformula1]

Time to start using a secret symbol. Which do you prefer?

229897 229898

Ask Ironchop, he is making the official stickers. :lol:

He came up with the- Trilluminati, I countered with 3Masons.

[bkm]

Time to start using a secret symbol. Which do you prefer?

229897 229898

El Tres Masons

[El Camexican]

I liked the 3Masons. Hence my new avatar. Can you come up a with a secret handshake?

[onformula1]

I liked the 3Masons. Hence my new avatar. Can you come up a with a secret handshake?

Sorry, I think I blew my creative load on the "3Masons" I do know a very hip young Mexican kid that fist bumps and then opens his hand and raises it up and yells... BOOM!

He is very well liked, great kid.

That's the pic I liked, I hope Ironchop approves.

[El Camexican]

I hope Ironchop approves.

If we can get him and a few others to join we may be able to get t-shirts made. What size is Barnett?:p

[bkm]

If we can get him and a few others to join we may be able to get t-shirts made. What size is Barnett?:p
Barnett who?

[El Camexican]

Barnett who?

Sorry, I meant Grand Master 666

[ironchop]

I just blew coffee onto my desk. Best thread ever.

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[El Camexican]

I just blew coffee onto my desk. Best thread ever.

Yea, I like CR's too!

[bkm]

My question is who is going to be Tucker McElroy, lead singer and driver of the Winnebago?

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[onformula1]

If we can get him and a few others to join we may be able to get t-shirts made. What size is Barnett?:p

I am more of a aramid fan.

[El Camexican]

aramid

AKA "Barnett Lite" All the bullsh*t but with 50% less a**hole!!!

[bkm]

I decided to try and see if I could possibly trade the CR for a nice KDX 200 or 220, I soon realized everybody wants to pawn off their junk. Imagine that.

So I decided to go forward with making the CR a bonafide woods weapon. I bought a clean subframe off ebay because mind is trashed, ordered all new oem hardware for everything that touches the subframe.

DC plastics makes the Works style disc/fork guard so the pink is going on the wall. I ordered a set of Renthal CR high bends, and OEM fork boots and clamps.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160417/5b855ca237530a91dde748c795178f33.jpg

Then I will start pecking away at the mods Milner suggested for woods riding.

Stay tuned for the mini make over coming shortly.

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[El Camexican]

DC plastics makes the Works style disc/fork guard so the pink is going on the wall.

Shucks, I was hoping you'd leave those on and upgrade the rest of the plastics to pink:(

[bkm]

It might make a few cameo appearances throughout the year.

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[El Camexican]

It might make a few cameo appearances throughout the year.

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There's a parade out that way on June 25 if you can get it ready on time. ;)

[oldskool83]

I want a honda CR...wait I may be getting a free mid 90's 125!

[bkm]

My PWK mods, a carb for every season...LOL228782228783
I just ordered some delrin to machine a 36mm reducer for the carb.

I also ordered a oem decal kit, the proper white background decals, showa disc guard decals, ufo red number plate (I hope it matches the orange cr color) and a few odds and ends.

Milner, I was wondering if you have ever lowered the subframe on one of these bikes? I'd really like to level the seat profile and make it a tad easier to get onto.

[onformula1]

I just ordered some delrin to machine a 36mm reducer for the carb.

I also ordered a oem decal kit, the proper white background decals, showa disc guard decals, ufo red number plate (I hope it matches the orange cr color) and a few odds and ends.

Milner, I was wondering if you have ever lowered the subframe on one of these bikes? I'd really like to level the seat profile and make it a tad easier to get onto.

The 36mm will be perfect, just make sure you put a 10 degree angle on the slide side. IF you end up running the stock PJ I have some good jetting specs.

Those disc guards are miss the axle bolt hole, on the originals the axle was tapped on the brake side and a bolt and washer was installed.

I have never lowered the subframe on those CR's, I am not against it at all but I am 6'1" with out my Alpinestars so it was not needed. I ran a tall seat foam or a built up seat for a flatter profile.

I always used the Tecnosel seat foam and covers, the covers are still available-

http://www.mito.uk.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=62&product_id=473

The standard height foams are available repop-

http://www.vmx-service.eu/en/seatfoam/1050-seatfoam-cr250-cr500-1985-1986.html

If you are looking for a softer seat just stab it a ton with a ice pick, if you want it firmer then put a seat cover over your seat cover (Double covers)

Also, the leading edge on the pan (By the gas tank) is sharp and loves to eat the cover up- it can be cut down and sanded smooth/rounded then add two short strips on duct tape over it.

[bkm]

I'm going to make reducers for the pj and tmx then test back to back.

I messaged mrs mosh about doing a tecnosel cover for me. If she can't get the stencil, I'll buy that cover and have her install it. My oem foam is still in really nice shape. It's a tad shorter so that may remedy the need to lower the subframe.


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[onformula1]

Jetting spec's for a PJ 38mm to 36mm baseline-

Pilot- 55
Needle- 1369 (Important)
Needle clip- third from the top
Main- 172

I think you know this, but check the hard chrome on the slide- if it's bad, worn, lined or flaky the carb. body is worst and it is a parts carb.

* Note filing 1mm off the air horn side of the slide will make it really snap, but it is not necessary.

I think this setup vs. your current setup is a fair comparison. :lol:

[bkm]

I'm riding this thursday and with work getting in the way until then, I will be riding on a re-jetted TMX. I go back to days next week so that will give me more time to install all the new parts I just bought and do the reducers for both carbs. Then I will test both out and see how they stack up.

Thanks brother for the info.

[onformula1]

Don't forget to spin a torque ring for the pipe. HaHa

Those FMF pipes had a lot of mid and top end and were a bit revvy for the woods. I liked them, but in California & Arizona it's mostly "Pin the tach racing"

[bkm]

I wish there was a better pipe option out there. PC will make the 87 cr250 which I read will work on the 86, but they are on back order.

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[onformula1]

I wish there was a better pipe option out there. PC will make the 87 cr250 which I read will work on the 86, but they are on back order.

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Unfortunately there are not very many choices these days, the PC will not help you. I liked my PC so much I traded a guy in the pits for a stocker.

[bkm]

Unfortunately there are not very many choices these days, the PC will not help you. I liked my PC so much I traded a guy in the pits for a stocker.

I've actually tried looking for a really nice stocker and silencer, but those are as rare as hens teeth.

[onformula1]

I've actually tried looking for a really nice stocker and silencer, but those are as rare as hens teeth.

The main issue of the stock pipe for off road is they hang very low and get smashed. Plus the ARMA & resto. guys want them.

The problem with the stock Sankei silencer is the ARMA & resto. guys want them and the ATC, TRX guys want them for that Marty Hart look.

This pipe will give you the most bottom end-

http://dgperformance.com/motorcycle-exhaust.php?pyID=597

[bkm]

I think the stock silencer is a work of art. With everything going on now days and the amount of Cookie Cutter bikes being produced, guys don't really understand how cutting edge this bike was back in 1986. Comparing this bike to my ATC is amazing. Every collar on the CR is light weight aluminum and the engine mount bolts shoulders are machined thinner for weight savings. I know I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but it truly is an amazing machine looking at it 30 years after it was made.

[bkm]

BTW, Mrs. Mosh will be replicating the Tecnosel seat cover for me with stock foam. I bought another pan to send her so I can keep my comfy Hi-Flite seat for when I know I'm going on longer rides.

[El Camexican]

I think the stock silencer is a work of art. With everything going on now days and the amount of Cookie Cutter bikes being produced, guys don't really understand how cutting edge this bike was back in 1986. Comparing this bike to my ATC is amazing. Every collar on the CR is light weight aluminum and the engine mount bolts shoulders are machined thinner for weight savings. I know I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but it truly is an amazing machine looking at it 30 years after it was made.

What did they weigh bone stock?

[bkm]

What did they weigh bone stock?

211 lbs or 95.8 kg for you metric guys.

[onformula1]

The whole bike was years ahead of every other brand, it won every shootout and the magazines where being very kind to the other brands. I was always shocked that the 1982 250r had a rear disc brake and the 1986 CR had a drum,,, strange.

The only improvements Honda should have made on that bike was a rear disc and a good rear shock, the 1987 had the disc, but the rear shock was worse!

[bkm]

The whole bike was years ahead of every other brand, it won every shootout and the magazines where being very kind to the other brands. I was always shocked that the 1982 250r had a rear disc brake and the 1986 CR had a drum,,, strange.

The only improvements Honda should have made on that bike was a rear disc and a good rear shock, the 1987 had the disc, but the rear shock was worse!
And even with that being said, I was really amazed at how well the rear drum worked and how smooth it actually is. I like how it's not on/off like some disc setups and I was running through water all day, but it stayed bone dry which is usually a death sentence for drum brakes.

[El Camexican]

211 lbs or 95.8 kg for you metric guys.

That's sounds light even today. A new SX 250 is 215#. There was a point in time when "dry weight" meant no gas or engine oil, but I believe that's evolved to no coolant, brake fluid, shock or fork oil. If true and the 86 was pre-helium filled tire weigh ins then dang that's light!

I'm not much of a Metric guy, Milner can attest to that:lol:

[bkm]

I thought it sounded light also, I got it off of here http://www.motorera.com/honda/h0250/cr250r.htm, but looking at it they list 211lbs for just about every bike on the list. . I'll check my manual when I get home.

I can tell you it feels a hell of a lot heavier than just 211 lbs

[onformula1]

And even with that being said, I was really amazed at how well the rear drum worked and how smooth it actually is. I like how it's not on/off like some disc setups and I was running through water all day, but it stayed bone dry which is usually a death sentence for drum brakes.

Don't get me wrong it is good, I just like a strong disc setup where I can run a high brake pedal so I can wedge my boot under it for control then flip my boot up to lock up for corners.

Notice the drum plate is magnesium, Honda was not messing around in 1986.

[onformula1]

That's sounds light even today. A new SX 250 is 215#. There was a point in time when "dry weight" meant no gas or engine oil, but I believe that's evolved to no coolant, brake fluid, shock or fork oil. If true and the 86 was pre-helium filled tire weigh ins then dang that's light!

I'm not much of a Metric guy, Milner can attest to that:lol:

I have faith...you will get the metric thing at some point :lol:

Bikes back then were weighted on the- "Painfully accurate MXA scales" fully loaded, dry gas tank.

[El Camexican]

I have faith...you will get the metric thing at some point :lol:

Bikes back then were weighted on the- "Painfully accurate MXA scales" fully loaded, dry gas tank.

Metric maybe, the rest of your black art I doubt:lol:

[bkm]

Don't worry El, I can't wrap my head around metric. Hell I can't even wrap my head around standard.

[bkm]

Don't get me wrong it is good, I just like a strong disc setup where I can run a high brake pedal so I can wedge my boot under it for control then flip my boot up to lock up for corners.

Notice the drum plate is magnesium, Honda was not messing around in 1986.
Speaking of magnesium, I'm saving my pennies for the 89 clutch cover update. I'd love to find a set of HRC clutch/ignition covers, but will settle for the Boysen covers.

[onformula1]

Metric maybe, the rest of your black art I doubt:lol:

Well, you did fine... and I probably have trouble explaining those kind of things.... I am trying to think back to the beginnings but that was at 4 years old, thanks to my family. :lol:

[onformula1]

Don't worry El, I can't wrap my head around metric. Hell I can't even wrap my head around standard.

I have changed over to this- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Whitworth

[onformula1]

Speaking of magnesium, I'm saving my pennies for the 89 clutch cover update. I'd love to find a set of HRC clutch/ignition covers, but will settle for the Boysen covers.

I know a buddy that reproduces them in Switzerland, I will check with him I am not sure if he goes back that far.

I need a set too. :lol:

[bkm]

The main issue of the stock pipe for off road is they hang very low and get smashed. Plus the ARMA & resto. guys want them.

The problem with the stock Sankei silencer is the ARMA & resto. guys want them and the ATC, TRX guys want them for that Marty Hart look.

This pipe will give you the most bottom end-

http://dgperformance.com/motorcycle-exhaust.php?pyID=597
So the DG is a good woods pipe? I guess all the bad things you read are from guys trying to do the exact opposite of what I'm doing here.

[El Camexican]

Well, you did fine... and I probably have trouble explaining those kind of things.... I am trying to think back to the beginnings but that was at 4 years old, thanks to my family. :lol:

I'm not giving up yet, but I did order a dunce hat to wear during class.

[El Camexican]

So the DG is a good woods pipe? I guess all the bad things you read are from guys trying to do the exact opposite of what I'm doing here.

Maybe you would (with Milner's blessing) consider cutting a pipe and adding .4" (10mm) to the head pipe? Just spit balling.

[onformula1]

So the DG is a good woods pipe? I guess all the bad things you read are from guys trying to do the exact opposite of what I'm doing here.

Out of all the pipes you can still buy the DG would give you the best woods performance, but it would not be a whole lot better than the FMF.

Try the torque rings they are easy and cheap and it doesn't take much to make a difference in that area.

Cutting the pipe is a option, but say goodbye to the plating and it is tough to add, it is easier to remove and that can be hard to do because everything gets thrown off.

Your biggest improvement at his stage is port work and a reed spacer. I think you changed the reeds correct? Also making a few shims or a couple of long spacer here-

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1986/CR250R+A/EXHAUST+VALVE+86-87/parts.html #28 will put more tension on the power valves so they open later.

[onformula1]

I'm not giving up yet, but I did order a dunce hat to wear during class.

It wasn't that bad, it wasn't bad at all... I do like your measure three times, cut once style. (I wish a few more of my buddies had that gene)

[El Camexican]

It wasn't that bad, it wasn't bad at all... I do like your measure three times, cut once style. (I wish a few more of my buddies had that gene)

You're speaking of the genius with a set of spare 48mm SX forks:lol: Hey, can we get those to fit on BKM's CR??? I need a buyer :naughty: Not sure if pink disk protectors are available though.

[onformula1]

You're speaking of the genius with a set of spare 48mm SX forks:lol: Hey, can we get those to fit on BKM's CR??? I need a buyer :naughty: Not sure if pink disk protectors are available though.

You can make anything fit, but those CR forks from 1986-1988 are in the top 10 of the best forks ever made, your WP's are ranked somewhat lower. :lol: Jeremy McGrath did you KTM boys wrong! :lol:

[bkm]

I was able to take it out yesterday and wow. what a difference the right jetting makes. I lowered the needle on clip and dropped from a 410 main down to a 400. I went from 1 turn out to 1.5 turns out on the air screw. It seems to start just a tad easier and didn't load up at all in the tight stuff we were riding in.

I have my 38mm PJ chucked up in the lathe and I'm going to experiment with some different bell angles and tapers, then machine a 36mm stuffer for the carb outlet.

I also machined some of the impossible to find, rear fender collars, out of aluminum. They turned out really nice. One of the beauties of the small Chinese lathe is their ability to make some very small intricate parts.

[bkm]

In light of my normal depression after another Blues playoff lose (it's a yearly thing) I decided to work on the CR.

To the delight of most, I ditched all pink accents and went with the more traditional "Works" disc cover, new oem fork boots, red number plate, correct 250 number plate decals, new shroud decals and Pro-Link decals. I also put a new set of Ricky Johnson Renthal CR Hi-Bends with new grips and levers.

The rear subframe was bent, broken, welded, and bent some more. I picked up a clean specimen from eBay and rattle canned it for the time being.

I installed the Onformula1 lower subframe bolts and machined some more collars for the exhaust hangers.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/41d0323ada1ea51328cbc4d7fda3c381.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160527/ecf25b078b6df48fc423e7f657f6d171.jpg

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[El Camexican]

Cool! Looking sharp! :beer

Now take a break, crack a brew and put your Pens Sharks predictions up.