HondaBond

[Mackus84]

When putting cases back together, i know the manual does not call for any sealant, just the gasket. I was just curious of the risk of using a very small amount of Hondabond 4 I believe is what i have as a little added insurance when putting the cases back together. I mean, a VERY very thin layer to hold the center gasket in place and seal everything up real nicely isnt going to hurt anything is it? Once again, i know the manual only says for the cylinder head cover. I was just curious bc it seems like it would seal it up good if a small amount was used.

[Jmoozy27]

I think it is fine. I use hondabond on most of my low pressure gaskets and haven't had a leak yet. When disassembling next time, you may get lucky and be able to reuse the gasket. Side covers mostly.

[Mackus84]

I think it is fine. I use hondabond on most of my low pressure gaskets and haven't had a leak yet. When disassembling next time, you may get lucky and be able to reuse the gasket. Side covers mostly.
Alright thanks. Yeah my old gasket was the problem. Already had my top end apart and had the bottom on a piece of wood and noticed a small oil spot on the wood after a day or two. So i went ahead and tore it all down while i was already halfway there. NOS gaskets going in in a day or two

[yaegerb]

Use it. Want something better? Look into 1211. I use that when when cases need sealant with no gasket; i.e. Banshee cases. Warning, that stuff is tough as nails, takes 24-36 hours for a full cure and I have to use ammonia to remove. Great silicone!

[Mackus84]

Use it. Want something better? Look into 1211. I use that when when cases need sealant with no gasket; i.e. Banshee cases. Warning, that stuff is tough as nails, takes 24-36 hours for a full cure and I have to use ammonia to remove. Great silicone!

Let me ask you since you have been around for a while, and seem to be very knowledgeable on this stuff. What is your method of cleaning crankcase and internal parts before you reassemble? Hot Soapy water scrub, immediately blow with air compressor, coat with oil, reassemble? Trying to find a good way to go about it from people that have done it before, since i never have. Ive just been following the manual, using the right tools, and so far its a breeze. But this question is better answered by experience. Thanks in advance

[yaegerb]

If you have removed all the bearings you can clean the cases a couple ways.

A: carb cleaner and compressed air
B: carb cleaner, compressed air and then drop them in the dishwasher when the wife's not looking
C: Take them to a shop, pay 10 bucks to have them cleaned in their washer

If the bearings are still in, then do option A. I tape the bearings with blue painters tape and douche the cases with carb or brake cleaner then thoroughly blow out with high PSI.

I also do the same with the transmission, taking it apart and ensuring to clean all the bushings, oiling holes etc. I also mic the I.d. Of all gears and O.d. Of the tranny shafts. when I reassemble I use Lucas assembly lube (green oil in a little white bottle). I squeeze good amounts on the tranny bushings, fork girdles, etc. I also use good amounts in each bearing.

[Mackus84]

Perfect, already have that exact assembly lube haha. Finally, a step that doesnt require me to go buy a special tool or certain cleaner or something. And yes the bearings are still in. They all feel good. No play, nice and smooth. Whoever had the bike before me had the bottom apart at some point, the gaskets werent oem, at least from what i can tell, compared to the NOS set i got. And somepunch marks on the oil pump screws. Guess they had trouble w them too haha. Im thinking the bearings may have been replaced at some point.

[Jmoozy27]

For me... It depends on your situation... If you have good water(I don't!) you can wash metal. If not, oil is much better than water. As Brennan stated,carb cleaner is solid for initial clean up. After that(depending on budget) use pen lube, diesel, or my favorite,, kerosene. It's cheap, easy, and works.

[onformula1]

Use it. Want something better? Look into 1211. I use that when when cases need sealant with no gasket; i.e. Banshee cases. Warning, that stuff is tough as nails, takes 24-36 hours for a full cure and I have to use ammonia to remove. Great silicone!

That's what I use, we seem to be in the zip code on many things.

http://www.threebond.com.au/liquid-gaskets.html

[arlaunch]

Ybob,

With your above suggestion of taking cases to a shop and having them cleaned?

What type of cleaning method are you referring too?

I have heard of the dunk tanks, but that is for steel and not aluminum. (i understand?)

I am interested because i have a few sets of brake calipers and master cylinders that have years of hardened gunk froze to them. I have not heard of any magic way to clean aluminum.

I am very exited to hear your reply as this would save me a few 8 hour days of meticulously cleaning brake calipers. UHGG!!

Thanks

[yaegerb]

Ybob,

With your above suggestion of taking cases to a shop and having them cleaned?

What type of cleaning method are you referring too?

I have heard of the dunk tanks, but that is for steel and not aluminum. (i understand?)

I am interested because i have a few sets of brake calipers and master cylinders that have years of hardened gunk froze to them. I have not heard of any magic way to clean aluminum.

I am very exited to hear your reply as this would save me a few 8 hour days of meticulously cleaning brake calipers. UHGG!!

Thanks

Check around your local shops, every shop is different. Some of the ones around me have sonic cleaning, thermal cleaning or your typical hot tanks or "parts cookers". Any of those will work. My local shop uses a parts cooker and it works well on aluminum.

[Dirtcrasher]

Hondabond, 3bond and Yamabond are all for no called for "no gasket situations". Be aware of some housings like the 83-85 200X kicker gear housing that MUST have a gasket for the correct clearance or they bind.

Every head and cylinder and case base I tear down, I lightly use a countersink on all the holes.

Then I use a hard stone and WD40 to remove any imperfections in the mating surfaces. You can watch them disappear.

Wipe em down with brake cleaner, whatever and I light ly coat each side. Let it set up a few minutes and put them together. I actually put all the bolts in very lightly (with grease on them and my dowel pins too) , and the next day crank them torqued down. Clean hands, bolts and a clean bench.

I haven't touched RTV in 15 years, (RTV makes me run away!!).

Never have had a leak yet......

[Mackus84]

Ok got my everything back together in the case. New gasket installed. One question though, in the honda manual, it doesnt give specific torque values for the crankcase 6mm bolts. At the beginning of the manual it gives the generic specs for the 6mm bolts, so i just want to make sure im right by following that. What did you guys torque yours to?230449

[Jmoozy27]

6-9 lbs is kind of weak to me. I usually do a minimum of 15 lbs on anything 1" or longer.

[Mackus84]

Ok. Im at like 12 lbs. Im gonna leave it there rather than risk breaking a bolt. 9 did feel really weak thats why i went up a bit

[Dirtcrasher]

I have never gone more than a manual says. It's a fact in the machinist handbook : Bolt diameter x 1.5 is the maximum length of threads for strength, adding 10 more mm's does nothing. So, a 6mm only needs 9mm of thread length, or a 10mm, 15mm of thread length, the rest is useless...

Case in point, 16yo idiot, 1981 RM125, I snapped all 5 basket bolts. I was afraid they were not tight enough.

I should have better ones, but I have the 3/8ths and 1/2" drive Craftsman torque wrenches that seem to work well.....

[86125m]

As far as torque wrenches go we like our digital craftsman torque wrench. One of the Best tools we ever bought

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[oscarmayer]

if this is a motor you plan o use for racing or lots of abuse, I would use thin amount of axle grease on both sides of the case gaskets and cover gaskets. this helps then seal but also, make si 100000Xs easier to take apart. and best of all , no more scraping gaskets off the metal.