1985 350x Build Up

[salisbury4573]

This is gonna be a slow build, but here is how she sits now.

Has a break in the left side of frame, TPC gusset kit has been ordered and is on the way.


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Runs ok, little hard to start carb rebuilt kit is on way, but I am not riding it until frame is fixed right. Rear brake caliper bracket is broken, needs some attention, gas tank has patch, considering a clarke plastic tank. Thats the only major problems I am starting out with. Plan is to go through it all and make a trail runner, nothing pretty, but something I can hit the trails with and have some fun on and be reliable.

This is my 5th ATC, first 350x, I am excited for this one. Traded my street legal 95 xr200r that is in excellent condition for this ATC thats in OK shape...lol Had to have it. Good news is that it came with a title and an extra motor, have not identified the year of the spare motor yet, hoping for an 86' as I am reading there are some improvements on that year.

More pics and write up to follow.

[salisbury4573]

The spare motor is an 86'

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[BOB MARLIN]

You can also tell the difference between the 85 and 86 engines by the clutch cable routing. They are on different sides.

[salisbury4573]

Carb got disassembled and dipped last night. New plug and this bike now starts on 2nd kick and idles great!

TPC gusset kit is on way!

[salisbury4573]

So I messed up, the bike was running great and I have been focusing on seemingly simple cosmetic issues like seat cover and fork boots and the exhaust is extremely rusty. So I decided to take the exhaust off and give it a high temp paint job.

BIG MISTAKE

The exhaust studs were flared out where someone cranked the exhaust flanges down super tight. I was able to get the header off, but the studs were in such bad condition I was basically left with no option but to try and take them out and replace them. 1 of the 4 came out nice, the other 3 were not so easy, twisted one off almost flush and the other two I quit on before twisting them off as well.

So long story short, motor is now out of the bike, head is off and at the shop. I am gonna let someone with more skill than me take a crack at it.

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I am a bit mad at myself for letting something simple snowball into this, but once I started down that path, it led where it led. The plan now instead of putting the old exhaust back on is to order the DG header and pipe. Maybe.

[BOB MARLIN]

Those studs have given me problems on all my x's and I'm sure almost everyone else's too. Fix it and move on. By the way those dg pipes look and work good but are louder than +++k.

[DohcBikes]

Where's the extra motor? Looks like you were on your way to extracting the studs, what was the result of your welded nut? Kudos for taking it to a shop when you felt overwhelmed. More people should do the same. Like bob said, small bump in the road, move forward.

[oscarmayer]

What is your end goal for the build?


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[salisbury4573]

End goal for this build is a reliable rider for the trails.

Shop wound up drilling out studs, went up to a 3/8 grade 8 studs going in. I assume will need to drill flanges, hopefully no big deal.

[salisbury4573]

Good news is while motor is out of bike, gusset kit will get welded in.

[oscarmayer]

Why are you letting them tap studs to SAE? It should be metric only and you go to 8mm from 6mm



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[350xtrike.rider]

Why are you letting them tap studs to SAE? It should be metric only and you go to 8mm from 6mm

We arn't all as perfect as you :lol: jk but from a welders stand point most shops in America only work with American threads. Like me.

[salisbury4573]

Tried to re-tap to M8x 1.25, but threads were too loose. Steel threads were seized in aluminum. Only choice was to go next size up, so went 3/8 because that's what was available and made sense.

I'm looking into buying a 400ex head pipe now to possibly modify, but am running into a lot of seemingly misinformation online about fit and how to mod. And really, what is the gain using a 400ex header pipe?

All comments welcome, as I am trying to decide between this route and just buying the DG, or sticking with the OEM head pipe.

Thanks

[salisbury4573]

Without getting too technical and showing off my ignorance, what I am hearing is that primary head pipe length and diameter is why the 400ex head pipe is a good swap. Supposedly a longer primary pipe length before the collector will increase the bottom end and mid range power. I am going to assume the risk, I bought a 400ex header for $40 on ebay. Hopefully I didn't just waste $40 lol.

Anyone else do this mod? Am I barking up the wrong tree with this one? $40 is an acceptable risk, if it works then great, if not, then oh well. I tried. Maybe this experience will help someone else on their decision.

Thanks

[wonderboy]

Sorry to be picky, but if the shop was already in there working on the studs, they should have just used a thread repair kit, which in the end results in a stronger than new threads (stainless steel threads in the head + new 8mm studs in my opinion is better than 3/8" stud in aluminum). I'd be worried about socket access to the largers nuts on the larger studs especially with the already larger 400EX header.

By the way, I think the 400EX header is a good move.

[salisbury4573]

I don't have the bike back together yet to test the access to the larger studs, but I will post about my experience and let you know what issues I run into with it. I assume I can always go back and use a helicoil? I think that's what it's called.

[salisbury4573]

Anybody know how to contact harkabusic? Wondering if he would sell me just the collector I need to fab this header.

[knappyfeet]

Kudos for taking it to a shop when you felt overwhelmed. More people should do the same

X2..........

I can't count the things I messed up cause I was too stubborn or stupid to "tap out" when I should have.

[Onetrackmind]

I assume I can always go back and use a helicoil? I think that's what it's called.

I am by no means an expert, but I'm pretty sure an expert would tell you to use a time-sert and not a helicoil in this situation.

[Queef Chief]

I am by no means an expert, but I'm pretty sure an expert would tell you to use a time-sert and not a helicoil in this situation.

Yes, Helicoils are junk and i have seen many of them pulled. Solid thread inserts are far superior.


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[wonderboy]

I disagree that helicoils are junk. I know we are talking about opinions here, so let me share my experience with them.

They are used not only in repair of old products, but on new production in many industries (automotive and aerospace to name a few). Both types of inserts (heli-coils or timeserts) are good products. I've used dozens of heli-coil type (not always the name brand heli-coil as there are generic offerings) repairs from M2.5 up to M14 and had excellent results. I've never had one fail or pull the threads out.

[Queef Chief]

I disagree that helicoils are junk. I know we are talking about opinions here, so let me share my experience with them.

They are used not only in repair of old products, but on new production in many industries (automotive and aerospace to name a few). Both types of inserts (heli-coils or timeserts) are good products. I've used dozens of heli-coil type (not always the name brand heli-coil as there are generic offerings) repairs from M2.5 up to M14 and had excellent results. I've never had one fail or pull the threads out.

I'm basing my opinion based on my time on the bench as a Tool & Die Maker/Machinist for 19yrs, before moving into engineering. I have seen both types fail, then brought to me to repair. I can say from personal experience that the Helicoil type pull loose far more often than the hardened/solid inserts, and are frowned upon from the guys I have worked with in the trade.
This is just my opinion based on what I have personally seen, and by no means trying to start a "this is better than that" war.


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[salisbury4573]

Working on cosmetic stuff while waiting on header to arrive 233375

[oscarmayer]

What header? You can go on eBay and for less than $120 get a SS fatty for a XR400R and it bolts on.

Well just checked prices gone up. Anyway the one you want should have springs on the down tubes for adjustment and EZ fit to the 350x head.

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[salisbury4573]

Been a while since last update. Many things happening that put the project on hold, but all good things. I got the TPC gusset kit and got it welded in. Sent the frame off for blast and powdercoat. Thanks Clark's Powder coat in Lucasville, OH.

Cleaned up the forks, installed new seals and dust seals, now in the process of installing AllBalls Tapered neck bearings. Will post more pics of the bearings and front end back on the bike soon, but in the meantime, here are a few pics.

Once the front end is back together, I am going to tear into the swingarm.

I know eventually I will have to repair the gas tank on this bike, it has the common pinhole rust in the bottom corner of the tank that someone tried to patch with JB Weld. I want it fixed and fixed permanently, so I am open to suggestions. I am thinking cut out the old rusty area, TIG weld in new metal, blast and powdercoat the tank. I may just go with a Clarke tank though. Kinda on the fence with this one.

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[salisbury4573]

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[salisbury4573]

Repairing this tank would be my first attempt. But I am willing to try. If I fail or further damage the tank, I can always go plastic.

[sittinguy]

Fun to watch another 350X come back to life. They can become money pits. Iv'e built 4 of them over the years. My best advice is put a 36t sprocket on the rear, Alot more top end. For trail riding 20in rear tires are the best. that will take off some top speed but the 36t will help compensate. The old 250r tires where the BEST, if you can find them. Along those lines, find a lightweight rear tire. 2 ply if possible. The ones that are on it look pretty good, the lighter the better.
I have some new Trail Hawk fronts if your interested. Its the only true 24in front. Most all others are 23.5in.
For quick cheap power boost, a 12-1 piston makes a big difference. I did alot of fancy mods to one of mine a long time ago, and my buddy just slapped a piston in his and beat me. I went insane, rebuilt, and could outrun my other buddies 250r when I got done with it.

Enjoy the build.

[jakep53]

Are you aware of the Cheetah 250r replicas?

I have been emailing these guys and twice now I have been told that they dont have any rear tyres in stock? i want to get some is there anywhere else i can get them from??

[salisbury4573]

Got the front end mostly back together tonight.

In regards to the 20in rear tire recommendation, I was thinking 22in, but thats solely based on my intention to ride mostly in the woods and I want the little extra ground clearance. Not 100% mind made up, I am open to all suggestions. Just want a good "all around" bike when finished.

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[Aulbaugh]

I picked up the cheetah's front and rear for my 350x and they look great. I got mine through cheetah but the 3ww shop has the rear tires.
http://shop.3wheelerworld.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=309

[sittinguy]

About the 22in tires. Yes, I will say for easy riding in the woods the old stock 350X tires were great, very cushy. Can't get them anymore... But when you start to really get down. The taller tire would roll to the side on hard side slides on the gas, causing the bike to lean into your turn making it east to lose it. Now a more squarish firm 22in won't do that, BUT they are usually heavy. Heavy sucks. I like to be able to pop the rear end around and slide a little. Unsprung weight kills performance. The old 22in tire had superior top speed, the tire would grow at top speed with the centrifugal force.
I had some 18in rears once for a while. WOW, alot of fun in the trails. Absolutly NO top speed, but so fun. I could spin donuts on pavement.
I didn't know about the reproduction 250r tires,, thats great. They were the best.

[salisbury4573]

Put the top end back together today. Timing was easy, got it first try.

Motor is back in the bike, gotta modify the intake where it connects to the neck due to the new gussets. Still a ways to go, hopefully running and riding next week.

[salisbury4573]

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[salisbury4573]

Have gotten further along, but have not taken pics yet. Have the intake fully assembled now, have the wiring harness installed and had to reem out the holes on the exhast flanges to fit over the 3/8 studs I put in the head where the old ones twisted off.

Had to take a little break from the action to rebuild a transfer case for my jeep, but its almost complete. Once done, I will have an opportunity to finally kick this bike over and see how it runs.

I did take a better look inside the fuel tank the other day and its super SUPER clean, there is a pinhole that someone JB welded and its holding fine, so I am likely gonna just stick with that for now so I can get back to riding ASAP.

I also have a 400ex header that I want to cut and weld to fit this bike, but in the interest of wanting to ride soon, I am delaying that upgrade for now.

More pics soon.

[salisbury4573]

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This is as the bike sits today. It is assembled, but there is much work still to do. I am running into a lot of small issues, brake bleeding, carb adjustment, decomp level adjustment etc. But the biggest issue I have right now is the lack of a rear skid plate and a bent rear brake rotor.

Does anyone know of a rear rotor that swaps directly onto this bike? Searching for a replacement only came up with "unavailable" results.

Thanks

[Shep1970]

Nice looking bike, 86/87 200x share's the same rear brake rotor, Not 83-85
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So there's one option for you.
Shep

[Shawn Powell]

Nice ride! For your brake rotor there’s a couple on eBay at the moment for about 60$
And for skid plates also eBay look up PRM skid plates 350x. Still a few in stock after the close down.


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[salisbury4573]

Thanks for the info on skid plates and rotor. I was able to bend the rotor back into shape, but its never going to be perfect. I assume it will push the pads apart when the bent section rolls thru the caliper and I will never have the braking power in the back that I would have with a straight rotor. But I will run it for a while and see how it goes.


Got a set of 20x10-9 MassFx tires from ebay for $99 shipped. Really happy about that, will see how they hold up over time.
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Got my decomp. lever adjusted and now the bike kicks over super easy. Still runs and has great compression, so I didnt bend valve doing this...lol

Disassembled and dipped the carb the other day, literally found a spider nest in the carb. Was running still, just hard to start. Found it had a 42 pilot and 138 main, went back to stock 45 on the pilot and went one jet up on main to 140, starts a lot easier, but when i quickly give throttle, it stutters, gotta warm it up and fiddle with the air/fuel screw, I set it at 1-3/4 out and have not made any adjustments.

Got a set of renthal bars of ebay for $25 shipped, really excited to put these on and see how they feel on the bike. The stock bars on the bike are bent and need replaced/ kept as spares or maybe i can attempt to straighten them sometime in the future.

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Looking at front tire options now, thinking Kenda.

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[Ranvier]

Almost there....keep going....sounds like you will know that bike inside and out. Nice updates.

[BOB MARLIN]

I like those kenda front tires, but some people don't. They claim that the tire throws up rocks into your face, but I don't seem to have that problem on the trikes I have them on. Also I think they may be listed as 2 ply but they seem to be much thicker than that.

[salisbury4573]

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Pics of the bent handlebars and the renthal bars that I put on. They sit a little low, but I think they look good and they feel right when riding. Not bad for $25!