View Full Version : 1983 Mustang GT Project
It's been 7 years since I had a street car toy and I've really gotten the bug again the past year or so. I had some kind of hot rod, mostly foxbody Mustangs with a few 68-72 Novas sprinkled in there, from 1997-2010, then I quit cold turkey and focused on trikes. My love for trikes has really taken a hit the last couple years and if it weren't for the sentimental attachment I have for my 250r, I honestly wouldn't even own a trike right now, or possibly ever again. But, my love for cars has never really diminished, only the depths of my pockets trying to support two habits like cars and trikes.
The last few months I've been on the hunt for a rust free Fox, preferably a notch, but a hatchback would be just fine. My first 5.0 was a 86 notchback 5.0 5spd, so I've always had a soft spot for the 79-86 cars. I've owned a 83 GLX convertible, and a 80 Hatch also along the way. Actually 6 of them ranging from 80-93.
So I located a rust free 83 GT in Denver. My 10 year old daughter and I are planning a daddy daughter road trip driving out there tomorrow to bring it home.
It's a project but the price was right and most importantly, rust free, which is unheard of around here. A rust free foxbody any year is very hard to find these days in STL.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170316/6fea48cc428ae66ead9135c787c4eee1.jpg
I'll be sure to update this thread as it progresses.
YTZ drew
03-16-2017, 04:42 PM
Looks like the start of something fun! Enjoy that rust free body, they're unheard of around here too.
knappyfeet
03-16-2017, 05:27 PM
I love it.
Always wanted an SVO
You`re not giving up on trikes ....MR.!........if you try Glamis just 1 feckin time ......you won`t be able to quit .....and da Mustaag is in trouble ......and the mike drops...
Don't worry Glamster, the 250r isn't going anywhere. I'll get out there some day!
I love it.
Always wanted an SVO
Me too. I've always wanted a blue comp prep 86.
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ezmoney1979
03-16-2017, 06:01 PM
Are you going to put a Coyote in it? Or piss off some people and put an LS in it!
Or piss off some people and put an LS in it!
Blasphemy sir! Lol I'll just keep the 302 in there.
fabiodriven
03-16-2017, 06:20 PM
Awesome Bryan! Great choice! Loved my 85 GT, it spent 17 years in my custody. I just let it go this winter.
jb2wheels
03-16-2017, 06:22 PM
Looks like fun!
I once had an 83 convertible not-GT (GLX??? - been a long time) 5.0 5sp that looked a lot like the vert in the background.
I had a lot of fun in that car - even with the cracked floorpans and 14" tires
Looks like fun!
I once had an 83 convertible not-GT (GLX??? - been a long time) 5.0 5sp that looked a lot like the vert in the background.
I had a lot of fun in that car - even with the cracked floorpans and 14" tires
The non GT 5.0 cars were GLX's I believe in 83. My GLX vert was triple black with the SROD 4spd. I hated that transmission, but the car was beautiful. My first priority is just to get it running, then I'm going to convert it to EFI using the FITECH kit. Then I'll address the 7.5 rear and go from there. My plans are possibly a small blow thru turbo and a C4, but that is after the body work and wheels are addressed.
Awesome Bryan! Great choice! Loved my 85 GT, it spent 17 years in my custody. I just let it go this winter.
I miss my 86 notch. I sold it as a roller in 07 and tracked it down a few months ago. It now has a 466 BBF and a C6 transmission, but the guy won't sell it back to me.
It's in worse shape than when I had it, but it was my first. I wanted back bad, but oh well, no use crying over spilled milk.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170317/fe0a02371e1c5556b010b3ac4e0ac399.jpg
yaegerb
03-17-2017, 01:59 AM
Um, I find out about this on 3ww....come on man! This is awesome news. In a couple months we'll take big red and your stallion out for a quick race. Looks awesome!
Sorry dude. When I'm on midnights I kinda segregate myself from human contact outside of my house or work.
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yaegerb
03-17-2017, 06:54 AM
Sorry dude. When I'm on midnights I kinda segregate myself from human contact outside of my house or work.
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Just messin' looks awesome
83ATC185
03-17-2017, 08:22 AM
Looks like a nice project! Had an opportunity on an 83 GLX convertible a while back and as much work as it needed, it was clean and it ran, and had a decent top. I didnt buy it for the simple fact that it was a convertible and i kick myself everytime i think about it.
I bet a 460 would really make that thing go.
I'm glad you found one, I felt bad about giving you blue balls with my neighbor's. Enjoy the road trip with your daughter, that will probably be one of the best memories of this build.
I'm glad you found one, I felt bad about giving you blue balls with my neighbor's. Enjoy the road trip with your daughter, that will probably be one of the best memories of this build.
Don't feel bad at all Joe. Hell you didn't know. We're both pretty excited for the trip. My wife's sister and brother in law lives in Colorado Springs and we're driving down there after picking up the car on Saturday. We'll hand out there for the night, have dinner and come back Sunday.
El Camexican
03-17-2017, 08:17 PM
Father daughter road trip, yeah!!!!! Pack the Hard rock collection and enjoy 10 years old! Mine turns 16 in a few months and no longer thinks I'm cool. I went from Super Dad to Super Dork a few months back. I should have had her freeze dried when she was 12.
Mr. Clean
03-17-2017, 08:58 PM
I always preferred the LX 5.0 or even better the Mercury Capri of that generation and I am a Chevy guy. I saw a black LX a couple months ago, it was pristine!!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170320/7ecf1458070e69067df4f07bbd4280af.jpg
29 hours in the truck since midnight Friday night till 8pm Sunday evening and a total of 1800 miles. The ecoboost averaged 14 mpg over the whole trip.
The car is rough around the edges, hasn't been on the road in 16 years, but runs and sounds good, plus it's 99 percent rust free from what I can tell. There might be some hidden, but nothing in the usual spots.
6spdls1z28
03-29-2017, 11:05 PM
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170320/7ecf1458070e69067df4f07bbd4280af.jpg
29 hours in the truck since midnight Friday night till 8pm Sunday evening and a total of 1800 miles. The ecoboost averaged 14 mpg over the whole trip.
The car is rough around the edges, hasn't been on the road in 16 years, but runs and sounds good, plus it's 99 percent rust free from what I can tell. There might be some hidden, but nothing in the usual spots.
Nice find dude. I haven't been in the mustang game in a while but mostly had 4 eyed foxes had a
79 hatch
2 82gts one I swapped a 351 w in
And a 93 vert. My favorite was my 351 82 ran hard but was a curse to me. Was going down the highway once at 65mph with my new girlfriend first time she rode in it, hood flew open on me destroyed the windshield the cowl and dinged the top. Did manage to fix it all
I pulled the nose off to get the fenders off so I can start the body work on them and the hood. I also pulled the dealer installed A/C off and going back to it being a non AC car like it was intended. I'm going to do the body work one panel at a time so I don't get overwhelmed and buried. I've never really attempted body work/paint so I'm not really expecting a show car. I keep telling myself even a 75 percent quality job is 100 percent better than it sits right now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/81334a1e6d5b0891ed8e003c9d6db2f0.jpg
plastikosmd
04-01-2017, 10:17 AM
Why dump the ac? Parasitic power loss?
El Camexican
04-01-2017, 10:25 AM
I pulled the nose off to get the fenders off so I can start the body work on them and the hood. I also pulled the dealer installed A/C off and going back to it being a non AC car like it was intended. I'm going to do the body work one panel at a time so I don't get overwhelmed and buried. I've never really attempted body work/paint so I'm not really expecting a show car. I keep telling myself even a 75 percent quality job is 100 percent better than it sits right now. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/81334a1e6d5b0891ed8e003c9d6db2f0.jpg
The difference in time that it takes to do a great paint job and a piss poor one is not much. Would be happy to coach you by text, starting with don't do any heavy work (welding or large dent removal) on a panel that's off the vehicle if possible.Front fenders and doors in particular. They tend not to fit back on very well after the fact. Sanding and light body filler work off the frame is fine, but only if you're not working on edges that need to match with other panels.
Wipe every thing you intend to paint with prepsol before you do any sanding. Keeps you from rubbing wax, or oils into the surface when sanding. Repeat before priming and painting and use a tack rag before every coat of primer or paint.
Bondo on bare metal is old school. The best way is to roughy the surface of the dent with 40 to 80 grit and prime it before you apply the filler. It's ok to leave some of the original paint on too as long as it's stuck on well. Bare metal under Bondo will eventually rust.
If your working on any plastic bumpers or clips make sure you use an adhesion enhancer like DuPont 223S or even Auto Zone rattle can on any bare plastic before you apply anything else on it. There are also special primers for plastic that allow some flex.
Sand wet whenever possible. It'll save you a bundle on paper and time. The only side effect is that your hands will dry out and crack after awhile. Use the wife's hand lotion at the end of each day. Start with 220 or 280 and don't go down to bare metal if possible. Your primer will bond better to the old paint than it will to bare metal in most cases. Finish with 400 grit before priming and use a two part epoxy filler primer. The stuff is amazing and will fill a lot of scratches and seals Bondo well. Wet sand it with 600 and then 800 before painting. The rougher the grit the better it sticks mentality is old school as well. 800 overs more scratches per square inch therefore it holds the paint better and you won't be able to see the scratches up close like you can with a 400 grit finish.
Use a base coat/ clear coat for the final finish. You can get away with murder using base/clear. Almost Anything you do wrong can be turned into perfection with a bit of sanding and polishing. I'll post up a couple of before and after repairs I had to do on my bike recently.
Paint the door jambs, trunk, under side of hood, etc separately and then bolt your doors, fenders and lids on before painting the car in one piece. You can run masking tape around the edges of the painted surfaces befor you spray the car and then remove the tape befor you clear it. By doing this you will be able to later buff the transition and make it look like you painted every panel off the car which is a terrible idea unless you have a dozen skilled buddies to help you put them back on after painting.
Nasty run in the clear
241508
Sanded out 90 percent of it with 220 dry so I could see the high spots
241509
Looked like this about 15 minutes later. Had I used enamel paint I'd have been screwed.
241510
Same with this fender. The base wrinkled up on me where I cheated by not using an enhancer on a patch that I'd sanded through to bare plastic. I was able to dry it with a heat gun, scuff it and fog in a few light coats to seal it before giving it a final coat of base. Like I said, you can get away with murder. This could have been in the center of a car hood and no one would ever know. :)
241511
The difference in time that it takes to do a great paint job and a piss poor one is not much. Would be happy to coach you by text, starting with don't do any heavy work (welding or large dent removal) on a panel that's off the vehicle if possible.Front fenders and doors in particular. They tend not to fit back on very well after the fact. Sanding and light body filler work off the frame is fine, but only if you're not working on edges that need to match with other panels.
Wipe every thing you intend to paint with prepsol before you do any sanding. Keeps you from rubbing wax, or oils into the surface when sanding. Repeat before priming and painting and use a tack rag before every coat of primer of paint.
Bondo on bare metal is old school. The best way is to roughy the surface of the dent with 40 to 80 grit and prime it before you apply the filler. It's ok to leave some of the original paint on too as long as it's stuck on well. Bare metal under Bondo will eventually rust.
If your working on any plastic bumpers or clips make sure you use an adhesion enhancer like DuPont 223S or even Auto Zone rattle can on any bare plastic before you apply anything else on it. There are also special primers for plastic that allow some flex.
Sand wet whenever possible. It'll save you a bundle on paper and time. The only side effect is that your hands will dry out and crack after awhile. Use the wife's hand lotion at the end of each day. Start with 220 or 280 and don't go down to bare metal if possible. Your primer will bond better to the old paint than it will to bare metal in most cases. Finish with 400 grit before priming and use a two part epoxy filler primer. The stuff is amazing and will fill a lot of scratches and seals Bondo well. Wet sand it with 600 and then 800 before painting. The rougher the grit the better it sticks mentality is old school as well. 800 overs more scratches per square inch therefore it holds the paint better and you won't be able to see the scratches up close like you can with a 400 grit finish.
Use a base coat/ clear coat for the final finish. You can get away with murder using base/clear. Almost Anything you do wrong can be turned into perfection with a bit of sanding and polishing. I'll post up a couple of before and after repairs I had to do on my bike recently.
Paint the door jambs, trunk, under side of hood, etc separately and then bolt your doors, fenders and lids on before painting the car in one piece. You can run masking tape around the edges of the painted surfaces befor you spray the car and then remove the tape befor you clear it. By doing this you will be able to later buff the transition and make it look like you painted every panel off the car which is a terrible idea unless you have a dozen skilled buddies to help you put them back on after painting.
Thanks buddy. Prepare for me to be a pain in your arse here in the near future.
Why dump the ac? Parasitic power loss?
It was a factory non A/C car and the dealer installed unit is a complete monstrosity, not to mention would take a small fortune to get working again. I bet the bracket and unit itself weighs 25-30 pounds. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170401/a732c1bff13efe65482ec639ed48c84a.jpg
El Camexican
04-01-2017, 10:52 AM
You quoted me while I was still adding to my post. Damn this curssed edit button!
Forgot to add, go with a non-metallic paints until you get good at painting. White is the easiest for hiding body defects, painting and future repairs (your daughter will be 16 before you know it). Black is easy to paint, but it hides nothing. In fact it shows things you didn't know were wrong. What color are you thinking? Perhaps a Blues theme?
You quoted me while I was still adding to my post. Damn this curssed edit button!
Forgot to add, go with a non-metallic paints until you get good at painting. White is the easiest for hiding body defects, painting and future repairs (your daughter will be 16 before you know it). Black is easy to paint, but it hides nothing. In fact it shows things you didn't know were wrong. What color are you thinking? Perhaps a Blues theme?
Factory Black. I'm not ready to do a color change.
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El Camexican
04-01-2017, 11:14 AM
Factory Black. I'm not ready to do a color change.
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Cool. Get the car wet and under good light before you start sanding. Find every dent, ding and ripple and mark it with a light shot of white, or yellow from a rattle can so you can deal with it before you get into sanding the whole panel. That's another great thing about wet sanding, you can look at the panels when they're wet and see if they are flat. If you work dry you have to put a cloth rag under you palm and rub the panels to find small variations in the surface.
knappyfeet
04-01-2017, 05:01 PM
I agree with everything Camexican said.
My 2 cents.......
I'm glad your attempting this on your own. Usually a projects finish is the most expensive part.......period. Knowing this long ago I started painting things myself and it's WAY easier than you may think. I absolutely paint everything I've done and if I can do it anyone can. The only thing I would add to his post is if you can swing it.........a better spray gun would be ideal. I use Devilbiss starting line products and Sata. The starting line kits are not overly expensive and get you the touch up guns, primer, etc.........things that are nice. I have a couple of compliant Sata guns that are awesome but not cheap.
I know my limitations and bigger body work I leave to the pros. There's guys on CL that will come to you and perform body work. Just a thought.
Good luck.
Not really much progress with this project, but I did buy a new power plant. It's an 06 Mustang GT 3 valve 4.6. Makes 300-315 hp depending on the year and should make for a fun street car. Most swaps I've seen with long tube headers and custom tune are putting down 300-310 hp to the wheels. Reliability should be rock solid and have excellent street manners. Transmission will be a T45 or TR3650? I haven't decided yet?
I'm seriously considering doing a plasti dip paint job in satin black with a set of black chrome 5 star drag wheels. Has anyone messed with this stuff? I'm not looking for a Barrett Jackson car, because my plan is to beat on this thing until it cries and do it on a budget.
So far I have $800 for the car and I traded a gun for the engine. I had $100 in the gun.
I want to see if I can run mid to low 12's and keep the budget around 3k for everything. I still have to sell the original engine and transmission. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170610/a8a5ae7cdc530795ecd26777e4c66e0c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170610/0136b22cb74c76a84faf8a1997de2cef.jpg
fabiodriven
06-10-2017, 02:20 PM
Good stuff Bryan. I wanted to do the complete opposite with mine. I wanted to stuff a honking FE big block in mine. Total wrong engine for that car, but right for me.
Good stuff Bryan. I wanted to do the complete opposite with mine. I wanted to stuff a honking FE big block in mine. Total wrong engine for that car, but right for me.
I'd love to do a 351c swap, but there's nothing cheap about a Cleveland, nor an FE for that matter. My original intention was a Coyote swap, but I couldn't pass up this 3v for what I have in it. I have all the wiring and computer from the 06 also.
Blown 331
06-10-2017, 07:14 PM
Don't forget to post this up on STLM! Lol. I've still got my 85 and 92 GTs. I've had them since 1999 and 2000 respectively. I put antique plates on the 92 this year!
Rob Canadian
06-10-2017, 08:06 PM
So that was a "Dealer" install AC system? I did not know FORD did that.
I have installed 100's of AC systems back in the day when it was an option. For most part. You could not tell if it came from the factory or was dealer installed.
Don't forget to post this up on STLM! Lol. I've still got my 85 and 92 GTs. I've had them since 1999 and 2000 respectively. I put antique plates on the 92 this year!
Haha, is that place still around? Last time I tried to go there, it wouldn't load.
So that was a "Dealer" install AC system? I did not know FORD did that.
I have installed 100's of AC systems back in the day when it was an option. For most part. You could not tell if it came from the factory or was dealer installed.
Yes, this was the system used to convert a non ac car to ac. The factory AC of the same year was a completely different system.
Blown 331
06-10-2017, 10:24 PM
Haha, is that place still around? Last time I tried to go there, it wouldn't load.
It's around but super dead. I logged in a couple weeks ago and the only other person on there was 03 Steve! LOL. There were some forums that hadn't been posted in for years! Crazy! I think Facebook killed it.
It's around but super dead. I logged in a couple weeks ago and the only other person on there was 03 Steve! LOL. There were some forums that hadn't been posted in for years! Crazy! I think Facebook killed it.
That used to be a great place with some funny MF'ers on there. I met a lot of really good people off of there.
Well this project is back on. I ditched the 3v 4.6 and I've decided to build a NMRA Factory Stock legal 302. This class consists of oem cast iron heads (E7, GT40, GT40P, H.O. or Cobra/Explorer intake, and camshaft with no more than .480 lift at the retainer. Camshaft will be custom and should rev close to 7k with proper spring package.
I started doing the body work and have a new set of wheels and tires coming and picked up a 5 lug 8.8 rear with 3.73 gears that will be swapped out for 4.56 gears.
Hopefully it will be ready for paint in the next couple weeks.
You can see in the second pic I found a super nice set of 85-86 bumper covers.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/c4c92f16cda1bb5d12f8e66b323e5127.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/6bf0cc4a303035c843c5a87ab9cf42bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170824/0beec0530b47ff329b61415ce2afdc9d.jpg
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83ATC185
08-24-2017, 08:05 AM
Glad to see you're getting back to it! Are aftermarket pistons legal to use or do they have to be the stockers?
Unrelated i know, but a friend of mine in high school had a mustang like that with that exact dent in the quarter where i tried nudging him out of a muddy place with the bumper of my truck :lol:
Glad to see you're getting back to it! Are aftermarket pistons legal to use or do they have to be the stockers?
Unrelated i know, but a friend of mine in high school had a mustang like that with that exact dent in the quarter where i tried nudging him out of a muddy place with the bumper of my truck [emoji38]Yes. When they say factory stock, they mean 15-20k "stock" engines. The big boys are running dart blocks, super lightweight rotating assembly's and valve train components and buzzing these things at almost 8k rpm. A guy I've been talking to has 3k just in his piston and ring package.
I want to be compliant, but I'm not naive to think it will ever be competitive, but there are several guys who run a budget setup that run really well. What they lack in power, they make up for in weight, suspension, and clutch tuning. They surprise some people and every once in a while catch a big boy sleeping at the tree.
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barnett468
08-24-2017, 11:15 AM
Well this project is back on. I ditched the 3v 4.6 and I've decided to build a NMRA Factory Stock legal 302. This class consists of oem cast iron heads (E7, GT40, GT40P, H.O. or Cobra/Explorer intake, and camshaft with no more than .480 lift at the retainer. Camshaft will be custom and should rev close to 7k with proper spring package.
Very cool, and it sounds like you are quite familiar with building engines so my apologies if you already know the following, but if you don't have a cam guy picked out yet, I suggest you call Chris Straub and talk to him before you make a final decision. Tell him barnett from the 69stang forum suggested him. I have sent several people to him. I'm guessing you are familiar with Ed Curtis but I for one wouldn't give him a single dollar of my money and there are many others who feel the same. I would use a billet steel cam and Crane melonized steel cam gear. You will need to double check the gear height on any distributor for freeplay and binding.
http://www.straubtechnologies.com/
If you can run link bar lifters and haven't chosen any, I would use Morels, unfortunately, at that rpm, it is safest to use their high dollar ones which are around $650.00 but with the low lift, you could probably get by with their $400.00 limited travel ones. Lots of people use the $400.00 ones in high rpm, high spring pressure apps but there have been a few failures and Chris can tell you anything you want to know about then. He made the cam for Ed Morels 800 hp n/a race car engine. Cololrado speed has the best deal on them but Chris Straub will give you a few dollars off on them if you get a cam from him.
https://www.coloradospeed.com/
If you are going to use a timing chain instead of a gear drive, Rollmaster red or gold are a good value. They make them with torrington bearings if you want.
There are also some simple oiling system mods you can do including blueprinting the oil pump. If you are not aware of them I will gladly tell you what they are.
The best deal on custom 4032 material pistons are from Race Tech. It is around $575.00. It's around anther $100.00 if you want them to mirror image the dome to the head. Their 2618 material pistons are a little pricey. You can ask for Randy Gillis if you call there and tell him Mike Lillevig sent you. JE has a scanner and can scan the combustion chamber and match the piston to that if you want to go to that extent. Joe Sherman has many of his done this way but it's obviously overkill for a street app.
http://racetecpistons.com/
https://jepistons.com/
If you are not familiar with a site called yellowbullet.com, you should check them out but they may not be allowing any new members at this time. These are the NMRA guys and some of them know everyone and everything.
If you can run a ported intake and don't have a guy to do that, I would talk to Tmoss, he does them fairly cheap and many people use him and are very happy with the results.
http://tmoss.efidynotuning.com/
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :Bounce
Very cool, and it sounds like you are quite familiar with building engines so my apologies if you already know the following, but if you don't have a cam guy picked out yet, I suggest you call Chris Straub and talk to him before you make a final decision. Tell him barnett from the 69stang forum suggested him. I have sent several people to him. I'm guessing you are familiar with Ed Curtis but I for one wouldn't give him a single dollar of my money and there are many others who feel the same. I would use a billet steel cam and Crane melonized steel cam gear. You will need to double check the gear height on any distributor for freeplay and binding.
http://www.straubtechnologies.com/
If you can run link bar lifters and haven't chosen any, I would use Morels, unfortunately, at that rpm, it is safest to use their high dollar ones which are around $650.00 but with the low lift, you could probably get by with their $400.00 limited travel ones. Lots of people use the $400.00 ones in high rpm, high spring pressure apps but there have been a few failures and Chris can tell you anything you want to know about then. He made the cam for Ed Morels 800 hp n/a race car engine. Cololrado speed has the best deal on them but Chris Straub will give you a few dollars off on them if you get a cam from him.
https://www.coloradospeed.com/
If you are going to use a timing chain instead of a gear drive, Rollmaster red or gold are a good value. They make them with torrington bearings if you want.
There are also some simple oiling system mods you can do including blueprinting the oil pump. If you are not aware of them I will gladly tell you what they are.
The best deal on custom 4032 material pistons are from Race Tech. It is around $575.00. It's around anther $100.00 if you want them to mirror image the dome to the head. Their 2618 material pistons are a little pricey. You can ask for Randy Gillis if you call there and tell him Mike Lillevig sent you. JE has a scanner and can scan the combustion chamber and match the piston to that if you want to go to that extent. Joe Sherman has many of his done this way but it's obviously overkill for a street app.
http://racetecpistons.com/
https://jepistons.com/
If you are not familiar with a site called yellowbullet.com, you should check them out but they may not be allowing any new members at this time. These are the NMRA guys and some of them know everyone and everything.
If you can run a ported intake and don't have a guy to do that, I would talk to Tmoss, he does them fairly cheap and many people use him and are very happy with the results.
http://tmoss.efidynotuning.com/
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :BounceLots of good info there barn, thank you. I have two guys I'm definitely going to contact and that is Buddy Rawls and Scott Brown out of Michigan. Class rules are no port work what so ever to the heads and intake with stock sized valves. Lifters have to be oem spider hold down hydraulic roller. 1 3/4 max diameter primary tube and 3" exhaust.
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barnett468
08-24-2017, 12:19 PM
Lots of good info there barn, thank you. I have two guys I'm definitely going to contact and that is Buddy Rawls and Scott Brown out of Michigan. Class rules are no port work what so ever to the heads and intake with stock sized valves. Lifters have to be oem spider hold down hydraulic roller. 1 3/4 max diameter primary tube and 3" exhaust.
You definitely can't go wrong with either of those guys and I wouldn't try to discourage you from using them, however, I would still give Chris a ring because info is free and he is very personable. Both Buddy and Scott know him. Unlike some other big name guys, he will actually get on the phone and spend a fair amount of time with people. He has made cams for many NMRA winners and some engine master competitors and some national championship boats etc. He is suggested way more than anyone else on yellowbullet.
As far as valves go, if you want something fancy yet still affordable, you might find some hollow stem ferrea intakes that would meet the size spec. You can safely cut the od of the head down around .010 if you need to to be within the rules.
Manley has some affordable ultra light weight tool steel retainers and I would look at their nextek springs as another good value in lightweight valve train parts but they don't make a lot of sizes in that style.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :lol:
I sent Chris an email, thanks for the heads up on the valvetrain parts. Class restrictions are limited to steel retainers and locks, so that helps keep cost down a tad vs. the TI stuff.
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barnett468
08-24-2017, 11:18 PM
I sent Chris an email, thanks for the heads up on the valvetrain parts. Class restrictions are limited to steel retainers and locks, so that helps keep cost down a tad vs. the TI stuff.
No prob, hope some of it helps. I don't build class engines or dedicated race engines so I can't help much there. I leave that stuff to people that know way more than I do, but I do know a few tricks and a few trick parts that some people overlook.
I'm looking forward to watching your build and seeing it run. I love this shiit. :)
As far as emailing Chris, it may take a few days for him to get back to you but he has gotten on the phone right away every time I called and it's a faster way to get info, so maybe ring him if he doesn't get back to you by Monday night. He's very patient and won't rush you, plus he won't try to pressure sell you anything. The majority of the people that go to him have already decided to use him and they just tell him exactly to the T what they want their car to do and leave it up to him on how to make it run how they want.
If you want a lighter rotating assembly you can run an aluminum/steel flywheel. It is not as light as aluminum so it will not stall every time you leave a stop and the last time I looked they weren't overly expensive. You can also get some light weight steel rods for around $900.00 but I know that's a big chunk of change and maybe overkill for your app.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :lol:
This will be a budget based interpretation of a true Factory Stock engine for that class. Unfortunately my pockets don't go deep enough to compete with even the lower portion of the field, but I think it will be fun none the less. I always love trying to do more with less. I could drop in an LS or bolt on a Turbo and make stupid power just like every other guy out there, but that's already been done a million times over.
I think trying to squeeze everything out of a little cast iron, non ported headed 302 is a lost art. Some, if not most, will argue it's not money well spent, but I'll take cubic knowledge over cubic dollars any day.
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barnett468
08-25-2017, 03:03 AM
ok, sounds like fun . been there and done that with 289's and 302's etc . the best bang for your buck for headers is hedman elites . nothing else even comes close . they use thick 5/16" flanges and thicker tubes than most others.
best exhaust gaskets are remflex or the soft aluminum ones and both are reasonably priced.
eagle rods are less than scats. stock rods will grenade . if you put arp bolts in stock rods it will cost almost as much as eagle rods will and they may still grenade.
alexs parts has some very good deals on non name brand stuff including drop in springs for 5.0 heads so you don't have to machine the spring bases.
https://www.alexsparts.com/
i would use cometic head gaskets even though they are pricey and would set the quench/squish to around .037" to reduce potential for detonation. this will allow you to run a little more compression.
scorpion rockers are the best bang for the buck but the race ones won't fit under stock or cobra valve covers . you need spacers or use their endurance ones but they cost a bit more . comp magnums are also decent. in fact, i may have a set or two of good used rockers if you want me to look but the ratio must be matched to the cam and your cam guy may very likely suggest 1.7's instead of the typical 1.6's, especially since you have to use a small base circle cam.
the site below often has good deals on used parts as well as craigslist and ehay.
http://www.racingjunk.com/
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :Bounce
barnett468
08-25-2017, 03:06 AM
if you can run e85 or e90 corn gas you can run a lot more compression.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :lol:
barnett468
08-25-2017, 03:16 AM
howards cams has one of the best deal on thick wall pushrods which you must have. summit racing sells them.
if you build it yourself, don't forget to set up the rocker/valve train geometry . the majority of people don't think about that.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :lock:
They do allow 52cc chambers. That's the only modification besides a comp valve job and aftermarket oem size valves. Spec fuel is VP racing c12. I'll have two tunes, one for 93 pump and the other for C12. I'm going to start off with an "exploder" long block, custom cam/valve springs and like you said, scorpion rockers with the ratio based on the cam guys recommendation. The engine has gt40p heads so header fitment is crucial. I ran 1 5/8 bbk long tubes on my 93 GT with P heads and they worked great. If the cam guy recommends 1 3/4 I'll go with those, which believe it or not, fit better on the P heads than the 5/8's do.
I want to work from the flywheel back and then worry about a serious engine if this is something I really want to get into. Once the clutch, suspension, chassis, and tuning are dialed in, I can concentrate on a real engine package.
I've been in touch with a guy who has went 11.68 with a f/s, cam only explorer long block and that was at 3050 lbs. I think pushrods are allowed a 2800lb base weight now. The coyote is legal in this class so they give the pushrod guys a slight weight advantage.
https://youtu.be/-X66KA_jfMI
barnett468
08-27-2017, 02:05 PM
What is an f/s cam?
HEADERS AND EXHAUST
1 5/8" headers are the biggest you need even at 7,000 rpm. Both the 65/66 production and racing Shelbys only had 1 1/2" and they put out around 306 hp at around 6000 rpm. You will lose hp with anything bigger than 1 5/8". Joe Sherman tested exhaust port air flow and said the majority of it exits out the center of the port with very little actually running along the walls of the port, and because of this, there would not be any appreciable loss in hp if the header was slightly smaller than the export at the header flange, however, this was with ambient air temp and not 900 degree hot air which is trying to expand so this is just his theory, but irregardless, if part of the header is smaller than the ex port, it still won't be a big deal, but at the very least I prefer to have the top of the header line up with the port since that is the outside of the curve in the port, and it seems logical that if anything, the exhaust gas would run closer to the roof then the floor of the port.
Just in case you didn't know, there are some new things out for exhaust like stepped headers and merge cones but these are pricey and overkill for your app, however, one thing that is critical is the size and length of the collector. This is an area that many people overlook which can cost them some hp and it is a fairly easy thing to do. I basically use the same size collector as the header, which in your case should be 2 1/2" and I make it so it ends between 14" and 16" from where the 4 tubes converge on the header if I plan to use smaller tube after the collector which I typically do when using headers with a 3" exit. Magnaflow mufflers are straight thru so they are low restriction but are stuffed with sound deadener so they don't cause much hp loss and aren't nearly as loud inside the car as chambered mufflers like the ubiquitous Flowmasters are. you will also need a crossover tube, or in your case an x pipe might work a little better.
COMPRESSION AND FUEL
If you are only going to use this as a weekend cruiser and occasional drag car and not as an every day driver and you don't use E85, you can still run around 11.5 compression with the type of cam you will have if you add TEL to the gas but you need to make sure the quench/squish clearance is between .034" and .042". If you can't run a dome piston in that class then the best you can do to get the compression up besides milling your heads as much as they allow is to use a flat top with with the smallest valve pockets you can and run the piston ring as close to the top of the piston as possible. You can also use gapless rings but they cost around $200.00 and up. If you have custom pistons made, ask the piston mfg about them and also contact total seal about them. If Kevin is there talk to him.
Here's one place to get TEL.
http://www.wildbillscorvette.com/octanesupreme01a.htm
SPARK PLUG HEAT RATING
You should run a plug that is one step colder than stock if your cranking compression is around 180 or more which it will be with 11.0:1 or higher compression.
SPARK PLUG BOOTS
If yours end up being close to the headers you can use ceramic boots instead of using the thermal socks. One of my plug wires literally caught on fire on one engine I had while I was breaking it in, lol.
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :Bounce
barnett468
08-27-2017, 02:18 PM
.
HEADER COLLECTOR DYNO TEST
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ywUEz5XtdE
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :lock:
F/S = Factory stock cam. .480 max lift, duration and intake center line is up to you.
It will be mostly a street car, but c12 is the spec fuel that must be used at any nmra event. E85 is starting to dry up around here so I don't want to mess with that.
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barnett468
08-27-2017, 05:16 PM
F/S = Factory stock cam. .480 max lift, duration and intake center line is up to you. It will be mostly a street car, but c12 is the spec fuel that must be used at any nmra event. E85 is starting to dry up around here so I don't want to mess with that.
What trans and gears are you going to use?
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :)
Astro 2.95 t5 and 4.56
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El Camexican
08-27-2017, 06:33 PM
4.56
Going for the best mileage possible eh? :)
Going for the best mileage possible eh? :)Should turn close to 7k through the traps.
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El Camexican
08-27-2017, 08:54 PM
Should turn close to 7k through the traps.
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The "traps" being the Dairy Queen drive-through you promised to take the family to in that car?
The "traps" being the Dairy Queen drive-through you promised to take the family to in that car?Did you talk to my wife today? You two sound exactly alike.
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barnett468
08-27-2017, 10:01 PM
Astro 2.95 t5 and 4.56
https://www.mustang.org.au/forum/Smileys/smilies/thumbsup.gif
PREVIOUS KAWASAKI INTERNATIONAL R & D PROJECT ENGINEER AND ATV DEPARTMENT SUPERVISOR AND THE ONLY PERSON ON 3WW WITHOUT AN EDIT BUTTON OR A STAR :cool:
El Camexican
08-27-2017, 10:02 PM
Did you talk to my wife today? You two sound exactly alike.
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Na, I just happen to have a wife. I know how this stuff plays out.
Don't get me wrong, you're my hero for going this route with your build. You can't imagine the flak I went through when I finished my Ducati and then my Suzuki and then announced to my wife that I would not be able to drive them and would require another motorcycle. She said something about selling them and I've be pretending to be deaf ever since.
My wife saw the mickey thompson's sitting in the corner of the garage and said, "boy, those really look like family car tires!"
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El Camexican
08-28-2017, 09:17 PM
My wife saw the mickey thompson's sitting in the corner of the garage and said, "boy, those really look like family car tires!"
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Traction is a form of bonding... think about it!
Finally got to work on the Shitbox Fox. Google "$50 paint job."https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/73ed62aab824131d015c6abcf0a459b9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180215/152c4cc48029a80c4b69eae6c3b6f90e.jpg
ironchop
02-15-2018, 07:34 PM
Looks nice from here!
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Looks nice from here!
Sent from my Z958 using TapatalkPictures do it justice. Lots of wet sanding ahead of me. But it's an $800 car deserving of a $50 paint job. I will have more in the valvetrain than I have in the car itself. Lol
I wet sanded with 600 because I had some serious leveling to do, then rolled on another coat. Dust contamination is my biggest enemy right now. Next step is 1000 grit, then what should be the last coat. I'll wet it with 1500, then 3000 meguiars unigrit, then compound, then polish. Way more work than it has to be, but I didn't want to mess with spraying the paint on. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180218/7c78c3abc2e461bfc7a986898471424f.jpg
El Camexican
02-18-2018, 08:56 PM
Looks awesome! :beer
About 1,000,000 X better than I would have thought you could do with that method, but then again, what do I know? Saw a guy duplicate a Rembrandt on TV once with house paint in less than 2 hours.:crazy:
How long did you let it cure before you started sanding?
Looks awesome! :beer
About 1,000,000 X better than I would have thought you could do with that method, but then again, what do I know? Saw a guy duplicate a Rembrandt on TV once with house paint in less than 2 hours.:crazy:
How long did you let it cure before you started sanding?I'm actually surprised myself and had low expectations going into it. The first two coats were rolled and tipped with a brush, but you could see brush lines really bad. This coat was just rolled, but I thinned it more with the penetrol and it layed super flat.
I let it dry three days. I was worried about it being too soft, but I got no build up in the paper when I sanded. I think a big difference in my method is I'm using an enamel hardener that most guys don't do and it takes a while to cure before you can sand it if you don't use it. Plus the hardener gives it a nice shine as you can see. A lot of these Rustoleum jobs have a satin finish to them even when using gloss.
It'll be a 5 footer when done and seeing the method used coupled with my below average bodywork skills, I'm completely fine with that.
sledcrazyinCT
02-18-2018, 11:54 PM
Looks like fun!
I once had an 83 convertible not-GT (GLX??? - been a long time) 5.0 5sp that looked a lot like the vert in the background.
I had a lot of fun in that car - even with the cracked floorpans and 14" tires
I acquired the same car triple black with the T5 and a 7.5 rear. I have an 8.8 with rear disc conversion and a built 351C upgrade planned.
I need to finish my 73 before I delve into the fox body.
I did some more wet sanding and put another coat on the hood and fenders. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180228/3d2b14499192891bc8523a9dd4d31ed1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180228/7c3f9cbd9de57de948c9b1eaae4a355e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180228/6c50598e4fd41a8655178f34f55549b7.jpg
Wyd? I need to look up this paint system
Wyd? I need to look up this paint systemFor those who don't feel like Googling it.
I'm painting this car with Rustoleum Topside gloss black and a foam roller. The paint is thinned with Floods Penetrol and has enamel hardener added to it. The penetrol levels the paint and removes all roller marks. The only problem is dust and it likes being flat or it will get sags if you're not careful. The quarter panels will need very thin coats to keep it from running.
Next step is wetsanding to remove any surface contaminates and then buff.
Thanks for the cliffnotes version. That's insane. I can say this with 100% certainty, if you have the patience for body work like that you definitely have the patience to be a tecate owner
Thanks for the cliffnotes version. That's insane. I can say this with 100% certainty, if you have the patience for body work like that you definitely have the patience to be a tecate ownerLike I said in an earlier post, the pictures don't tell the whole story. There are plenty of blemishes that don't show up in the pics that are the result of my subpar bodywork skills. It's gonna be a 3 foot paint job, but what the hell, I ain't taking it to the fair.
Hopefully all my patience isn't used up on the Shitbox so I have a little left over for the T3.
For the sake of keeping me honest, here's a run and a few sags I have to fix. Stay tuned to see how I take care of those. I watched a really cool video on YouTube today about fixing runs. So simple it's genius. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180228/72a0a63990f016842270dfabb9801b5c.jpg
Wet sanded with 2k then machine cut with Meguiars 105 compound. Next step is polishing with Meguiars 205. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/a94668a3f372cbc87c6fafa348a6d311.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/e627a69731cf5678cc83bc04c596e249.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/205f7093e189d52cf35375c6c4e2075b.jpg
ironchop
03-13-2018, 10:38 AM
Wet sanded with 2k then machine cut with Meguiars 105 compound. Next step is polishing with Meguiars 205. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/a94668a3f372cbc87c6fafa348a6d311.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/e627a69731cf5678cc83bc04c596e249.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180312/205f7093e189d52cf35375c6c4e2075b.jpgWow. You picked the hardest paint color to hide flaws with and it looks fantastic!
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Yes, flaws are present and accounted for. There are a few that are driving me crazy, but I need to remember what I'm working with here.
ironchop
03-14-2018, 09:07 AM
.... I need to remember what I'm working with here.
A Ford product? [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji39]
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A Ford product? [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji39]
Sent from my Z958 using TapatalkExactly, its hard to perfect perfection.
ironchop
03-14-2018, 09:14 AM
Exactly, its hard to perfect perfection.I proudly own some Fords too. I just couldn't resist the zinger
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Figured I'd update this project and yes, I still have it, which is a feat in and of itself.
The direction has kinda changed and I'm no longer looking to do any class racing,(my pockets aren't that deep)but more of an 1/8 mile test and tune street car.
I've contacted Buddy Rawls who is doing a custom cam for the GT40P heads and oem pistons. Buddy is known for making Ford iron heads really run. He's been part of several NHRA stock eleminator/factory stock type builds, and if you saw what they run with factory heads, intake, and carb, it's quite impressive. The pistons will require fly cutting and shift points should be around 6400, but in order to cross the line at 6000 rpm and in fourth gear, it will need a 5.13 gear. I still think it will be streetable with the 2.95 first gear and .63 overdrive, but currently I have 4.56 gears which would be fine for 1/4 mile, but just not enough for 1/8, unless I want to cross in 3rd gear. 3rd gear is around 7000 rpm with the 4.56's. Ideally a 4.10 is the gear that would be best if I didn't plan on using 4th gear and would be more civilized on the street, but I think for now I'm going to see where the 4.56's put me. I may step up to a 28" tire and cross in 3rd?
Induction will not be efi, but rather a Victor Jr. intake and 650 holley.
I've ordered baseline relocated upper control arms and fully adjustable lowers, so the rear suspension should be very capable of good 60' times.
Now I just need the weather to cooperate and a few other projects to wrap up and I can get to wrenching on this pile.
Blown 331
03-04-2019, 10:32 AM
I'm kind of in the middle of putting together an engine for my 1985 GT. I bought the car in Indiana in 1999. As I was backing out of the guys driveway he stopped me and said we better check the coolant for my drive back. I daily drove the car for about 2 years and it used coolant the entire time. And finally got bad enough to where it was steaming out one of the tail pipes. I pulled that head, had it cracked checked, it was good. I put it back on and had the same issue. I guess the block is possibly cracked. I'm going to hang on to the original engine but I'm putting together something else for it now. I have a stock bottom end out of a 91 Mustang, the regular GT40 iron heads, b303 Cam and 1.7 roller rockers. I'm going to run the stock Aluminum Intake and the stock headers for the Dual snorkel set up. This isn't a high performance build but just something to get the car back on the road with parts I have laying around.
I'm kind of in the middle of putting together an engine for my 1985 GT. I bought the car in Indiana in 1999. As I was backing out of the guys driveway he stopped me and said we better check the coolant for my drive back. I daily drove the car for about 2 years and it used coolant the entire time. And finally got bad enough to where it was steaming out one of the tail pipes. I pulled that head, had it cracked checked, it was good. I put it back on and had the same issue. I guess the block is possibly cracked. I'm going to hang on to the original engine but I'm putting together something else for it now. I have a stock bottom end out of a 91 Mustang, the regular GT40 iron heads, b303 Cam and 1.7 roller rockers. I'm going to run the stock Aluminum Intake and the stock headers for the Dual snorkel set up. This isn't a high performance build but just something to get the car back on the road with parts I have laying around.Sometimes the basic builds are the most fun.
3Z with Fangs!
03-06-2019, 10:38 PM
Awesome man! I'm a Fox freak myself, love my 4 eyes! I still have my 20th Anniversary GT that I bought in highschool back in '97. I've got a ton of stuff for it, I just need to put it together.257624 this is a pic of it the day I moved it to our new house. Also have a '95 Cobra, ported heads, Tmoss intake and Ed Curtis cam.257625
3Z with Fangs!
03-06-2019, 10:40 PM
https://youtu.be/nV8x6r4Aj1A
Other than a 86 notch back, the 84 Gt350 is my favorite Fox. I've almost bought one several times over the years, just haven't pulled the trigger. That 95 sounds great.
Are you on the Four Eyed Pride forum?
3Z with Fangs!
03-07-2019, 05:06 PM
Other than a 86 notch back, the 84 Gt350 is my favorite Fox. I've almost bought one several times over the years, just haven't pulled the trigger. That 95 sounds great.
Are you on the Four Eyed Pride forum?
I am, it's been a while since I've been on. Honestly, I'm not sure I even remember my user name over there. I need to check in. I just only have money for one project at a time unfortunately. Right now it's the Tri-Z.
New carb is here. I went with an AED 650HO. I'm also waiting on the Pac racing valve Springs and for the heads to come back from the machine shop with a fresh valve job so I can start setting up the valve spring heights. The cam should be here in a couple of weeks, then I can get the engine together. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190318/8704b123ca2ac0d7d52851bde2fd9bc8.jpg
3Z with Fangs!
03-18-2019, 09:05 PM
I'm kind of in the middle of putting together an engine for my 1985 GT. I bought the car in Indiana in 1999. As I was backing out of the guys driveway he stopped me and said we better check the coolant for my drive back. I daily drove the car for about 2 years and it used coolant the entire time. And finally got bad enough to where it was steaming out one of the tail pipes. I pulled that head, had it cracked checked, it was good. I put it back on and had the same issue. I guess the block is possibly cracked. I'm going to hang on to the original engine but I'm putting together something else for it now. I have a stock bottom end out of a 91 Mustang, the regular GT40 iron heads, b303 Cam and 1.7 roller rockers. I'm going to run the stock Aluminum Intake and the stock headers for the Dual snorkel set up. This isn't a high performance build but just something to get the car back on the road with parts I have laying around. Long tubes man, you'll never regret them on a 5.0. I even ran a cheap set of Flowtech Headers with their matching H pipe on the 85 that I had, very nice power gain for cheap and they sound great too.
3Z with Fangs!
03-18-2019, 09:09 PM
New carb is here. I went with an AED 650HO. I'm also waiting on the Pac racing valve Springs and for the heads to come back from the machine shop with a fresh valve job so I can start setting up the valve spring heights. The cam should be here in a couple of weeks, then I can get the engine together. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190318/8704b123ca2ac0d7d52851bde2fd9bc8.jpg
I'm sure that'll be a great little carb brother! I run nothing but PAC springs and the old iron GT40'S on my Cobra are ported but they're still a pretty great head even unported. The valve job if it's a good one should help a lot. I'd blend the bowls myself if I were you though.
I'm sure that'll be a great little carb brother! I run nothing but PAC springs and the old iron GT40'S on my Cobra are ported but they're still a pretty great head even unported. The valve job if it's a good one should help a lot. I'd blend the bowls myself if I were you though.The machine shop does serdi valve jobs and they blend them into the bowl and chamber. I'm going to see how far I can push these iron heads unported before I step up to a cnc'd aluminum head. Once it's running my main concern will be from the flywheel back.
3Z with Fangs!
03-20-2019, 03:06 PM
Yup, my Cobra has an Astro T5 in it's future!
I'm still messing with this pile of garbage. I decided on a transmission and picked up a fresh toploader, V-Gate shifter, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, and Ram powergrip HD clutch and Romac balancer. It should rev a lot faster with the lightweight balancer and flywheel.
I also said fug it, and picked up a full chromoly front tubular suspension with A-arms and coil over kit.
I have the engine torn down to the crankshaft and pistons getting ready to check ptv clearance.
My goal is to have it leave the garage under it's own power before years end. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190611/2a01f1d46339bc7623d6d7a7c231a65c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190611/47ce3fdfbabd5146554247afb3289cdc.jpg
yaegerb
06-10-2019, 09:52 PM
Freakin shweet
ironchop
06-10-2019, 11:04 PM
*Drool*
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ironchop
06-10-2019, 11:10 PM
I'm still messing with this pile of garbage. I decided on a transmission and picked up a fresh toploader, V-Gate shifter, Fidanza aluminum flywheel, and Ram powergrip HD clutch and Romac balancer. It should rev a lot faster with the lightweight balancer and flywheel.
I also said fug it, and picked up a full chromoly front tubular suspension with A-arms and coil over kit.
To add to my *Drool.....
Do you always throw your wallet at a pile of garbage?
"I picked up this, I picked up that"... all blah-zay like. HAHA
That looks more like a Jegs shopping spree to me.
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To add to my *Drool.....
Do you always throw your wallet at a pile of garbage?
"I picked up this, I picked up that"... all blah-zay like. HAHA
That looks more like a Jegs shopping spree to me.
Sent from my Z958 using TapatalkLol, I've been working 60-70 hrs a week for the last few months so most of the overtime has gone towards the Mustang. In the past I've always built the engine and had no supporting parts whatsoever, but now I'm doing just the opposite. The body and interior will come after the driveline is sorted out. Also, since I really have no hard set timeline, I wait for some other schlep to use some of this stuff for 100 miles and then sell it for less than half of new.
Huge piece of the puzzle. I've been looking for this bellhousing for about a year now. This mounts a Toploader 4speed to small block ford, but uses late model style cable pull clutch like the fox and later Mustangs.
The toploader shares the Tremec bolt pattern, but has a shorter input shaft making this bellhousing toploader specific and not very common because it's not a popular swap since everyone wants overdrive. Lakewood stopped making these years ago and most guys who have them laying around don't know what the hell they fit. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190821/8a6ee01db31481a35734411e10162b8e.jpg
ironchop
08-21-2019, 06:13 PM
So how soon before you're sideways in this thing?
Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk
So how soon before you're sideways in this thing?
Sent from my Z958 using TapatalkI'm so far behind, I think that I'm leading the race.
Well here were are with another direction in this build. So if you're keeping score at home, it now has a Holley Terminator X efi engine management, Vortech S-trim centrifugal supercharger, Tremec TKO 600 5 speed, and some weight reduction. Check back next week and see what direction it'll be heading.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191210/7abfe19cb67c4821406adb37d3b1054a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191210/63d54ef12d26f15f491ef96f208b3cc5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191210/622af86789724410f4825216ab3b0772.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191210/1be131f6091d45af9dac9809fdf0acaa.jpg
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