What do you use as a penetration fluid?

[Rob Canadian]

I have found a new one that I love. Made by Wurth. Called Injector-EX. I used it the other day and love it. It is $$$ (25 bucks a can)

OK back a while ago I used Pretune . It was a product by Toyota that has been discontinued. It was well known as a great product via any forum. Contacted the maker and nothing. This stuff was AWESOME. BUT no longer available.

I used Injector-EX on a stubborn 02 sensor. Trust me. I was thinking I was going to mess up the threads getting it out... Minor work and it came out easy.

Not sure how it would compare to other fluids or oils. I know you have your own.

[fieldy]

Usually blaster, unfortunately the smell almost makes me hurl so i spray and disappear.
Ive never tried but heard acetone mixed with transmission fluid is very good penetrate.
Guys around saltwater use a product called Freeze off.

[Aulbaugh]

I'm sold on kroil. The oil that creeps.

[yaegerb]

X2, only thing on my shelf is kroil

[Dan-k]

Open and shut smells great and works really good

[125Mmadness]

Ultra Lube for now. Seems to work ok. I got a free can and thought i'd try it out, definetely works better then wd-40, smells better too. I'd like to get some kroil but no place around me sells it so i would have to order it online.

[Dragonalain]

Can’t beat kroil by far the best I’ve ever used.


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[ironchop]

Coconut oil.

I use coconut oil when I'm getting ready to penetrate her. Safe for both partners and extremely effective [emoji23][emoji23]

Oh you meant for rusty nuts and bolts? Kroil all the way. Our shop buys it by the case.


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[ps2fixer]

PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Lube-E, whatever is cheapest. All 3 work similar, I'd say PB works a little better the LW, and Lube-E is off brand stuff that works ok. WD-40 isn't exactly a Penetrating fluid, it's more for water displacement (aka the WD part of the name), and general purpose lube.

If I remember it right, diesel fuel + some sort of thin oil makes a good home made penetrating fluid. Never tried it, but probably tons cheaper making it by the gallon lol.

When the bolts/nuts are really rusted up... remember I'm in Michigan, one of the worst salt states... heat is sometimes the best penetrating fluid out there. Heat to cherry red and take the bolt/nut off. Works great for leaf spring bolts on trucks, never had one break or not come off yet. It can de-temper the metal though, so if it needs to be a hardened bolt, replace it afterwards.

[Scootertrash]

I'm sold on kroil. The oil that creeps.

What he said ^^

As noted by others, WD40 is not a penetrating oil. I have no clue where everybody seems to get that idea.
I have PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench and 2 or 3 other penetrating oils in my cabinet. All of them have slowly migrated to the back of the cabinet. Kroil is in front. ;)

I don't know of anybody local that sells it, I buy it online.

ETA:

When the bolts/nuts are really rusted up... remember I'm in Michigan, one of the worst salt states... heat is sometimes the best penetrating fluid out there. Heat to cherry red and take the bolt/nut off. Works great for leaf spring bolts on trucks, never had one break or not come off yet. It can de-temper the metal though, so if it needs to be a hardened bolt, replace it afterwards.

[fabiodriven]

Nobody has mentioned CRC Freeze Off. I've had a lot of luck with that.

[Aulbaugh]

Nobody has mentioned CRC Freeze Off. I've had a lot of luck with that.

Fieldy had mentioned freeze off in #2. I have heard good things about it like you mentioned.

[Rob Canadian]

Some info from another forum that I found:

Penetrating Oils Compared

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective

test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.


Penetrating oil .......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix............ 53 pounds

The Automatic Transmission fluid (ATF)-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix
of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.

Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this

one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about
as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.

^ info I found while looking up stuff. Heat is good in certain things. We have a freezing type spray at work. (I used it but did not find it all that good) Seems I can get kroil online here. Nothing in stores. Thinking of doing my rear swingarm bushings in the future. Delrin bushings. Spare swingarm bolt. Get all my ducks inline for the job. :)

[ps2fixer]

That's an interesting write up. Does it say how much time between spraying the bolt and breaking it loose? PB blaster isn't instant acting, it needs to sit 10-15mins to work better. Of course my rusted bolts are like rust welded in that case, or very heavy pitting from 20+ years of road salt. I wonder what size of bolt it was, 516 ft-lbs of torque is quite a lot, had to be like a 1in+ bolt, probably bigger to be more consistent on the results. I'll have to try to mix up some atf + acetone, I think the mix I heard of before was diesel + atf but it's been ages since I've seen the post on it.

[350for350]

It also helps to heat something to "hot" not "cherry red" and then spray your penetrating oil on it to cool it down. It also helps the penetrant to penetrate faster.

[ps2fixer]

Yea the heat/cooling effect wicks it up. The cherry red thing is on a throw away bolt. My dad needed to remove or adjust his rear tractor wheel on a 1953 Case, and the bolts that hold it to the axle wouldn't break free with 3/4in impact + penetrating fluid. In the end he got pissed and used the torch on it to bright red almost yellow, put the socket on it while hot, and broke free just fine. He did reuse the bolts, I doubt they were heat treated when new anyway. That's been kind of his go to for really badly rusted parts after normal attempts fail. Not exactly a fix for all cases, but works well in a lot.

One time I picked up a Toyota pickup that had flat tires, and I bought a set to swap out, and the rims were rusted to the hubs so badly I couldn't get them off with a sledge or throwing the aired up tires at it. I was 3 hours from home and remembered the heat trick. I used a portable torch, and just warmed the rim up hot to the touch and first hit with the other tire popped it off, same for the other tires.

I searched out the diesel + atf thing, and it seems to be lesser known than the acetone + atf but uses the same basic theory of a oil thinner to make the oil penetrate better. I suspect diesel is just slower acting. Never tried either, mainly because it's hard to pass up the lube in a can setup and how portable it is.