ATC70 drove through a puddle and lost spark

[Quinc]

Took off the recoil cover and it was a little wet but not soaked. I hosed it down with starting fluid and blew it out with air. Still no luck. Any ideas? Did I fry something? :wondering: Should I use this as an excuse to throw it away and get a 140cc? :naughty:

[Rob Canadian]

How big was that puddle? LOL

Possible it may have got wet in the kill switch(?)

[Quinc]

How big was that puddle? LOL

Possible it may have got wet in the kill switch(?)


Puddle/pond.. You know... I was watching the intake and didn't think to watch the pull start hole. :(

No kill switch on her. right now have to kill it by pulling off the spark plug wire.

[jb2wheels]

Try a new plug. Sometimes the porcelain cracks when they're hot and get wet.

Had this happen on a 400 SBC in a Blazer once when wheeling through mud. Took a long time to figure out the plug was bad.

[Quinc]

Tried the new plug and still no love. Time to find a repair manual and bring out the ohm meter. =/

[coolpool]

Simple things first. Did you unscrew the spark plug boot to see how the connection is? Pull all your connections apart and blow them dry just to be safe. It ran before the puddle.

[3 Wheel Drive]

Next time build a snorkel before you go submariner on the old 70.

[El Camexican]

I suspect the issue is that you drove a puddle jumper through a puddle rather than well, you know... jumping it.

[Quinc]

Next time build a snorkel before you go submariner on the old 70.

I have been thinking about that. But in this case the water did not make it anywhere near the intake.

[shortline10]

New points and condenser , only OEM no china junk .

[HairyJR]

New points and condenser , only OEM no china junk .

I agree with Mike, when I read your posting a couple days ago thought did you remove the flywheel/stator to clean or raise with starting fluid, which isn't a solvent cleaner and won't remove the rust / corrosion between the points contacts. Clean the points faces with a thin file and piece of cardboard like a match cover, old timer's trick.

"HJ" 251358 :beer

[Quinc]

I agree with Mike, when I read your posting a couple days ago thought did you remove the flywheel/stator to clean or raise with starting fluid, which isn't a solvent cleaner and won't remove the rust / corrosion between the points contacts. Clean the points faces with a thin file and piece of cardboard like a match cover, old timer's trick.

"HJ" 251358 :beer


Fresh water, and had it blown out with starter fluid and compressed air within 30 minutes. I would hope it could not have rusted in that short amount of time. Then again maybe the points are that sensitive? :cry:

[Rob Canadian]

Fresh water, and had it blown out with starter fluid and compressed air within 30 minutes. I would hope it could not have rusted in that short amount of time. Then again maybe the points are that sensitive? :cry:

I don't think rust is the issue as you are thinking. I am not sure if the starting fluid put a layer of film on the contacts of the points.

Try a new points and condenser. OR at least give a quick file on the points.

[Quinc]

I got the flywheel off and it looks like there should be something on the crank or flywheel that opens and closes the points? Still has the felt that cleans it. Anyone have a picture of one in working condition?

[HairyJR]

I got the flywheel off and it looks like there should be something on the crank or flywheel that opens and closes the points? Still has the felt that cleans it. Anyone have a picture of one in working condition?

The flywheel or stator has an eccentric cam lob built into the center hub which opens and closes the points. Points need to be set / adjusted to open at the "F" flywheel timing mark to run. I've added a pic of a modified / machined flywheel a fellow member "KASEY" posted on the site many years back. Setting and or adjusting the points is difficult for even the best of us.

251504

"HJ" 251505 :beer

[Quinc]

The flywheel or stator has an eccentric cam lob built into the center hub which opens and closes the points. Points need to be set / adjusted to open at the "F" flywheel timing mark to run. I've added a pic of a modified / machined flywheel a fellow member "KASEY" posted on the site many years back. Setting and or adjusting the points is difficult for even the best of us.

251504

"HJ" 251505 :beer


Thank you for the info!

And sorry I even questioned you guys. Cleaned the points with 500grit and she started on the first pull.

Also was able to get the flywheel off with a steering wheel puller and a little heat. :)

[HairyJR]

Thanks for telling us what fixed the problem. I always thought dirty points......:idea:

"HJ" 251544 :beer

[Quinc]

son of a b.. just spraying the mud off with the hose after riding I lost spark again... Any tips on sealing the pull cord, piece of rubber or something that fits nicely in the hole with a tight fit around the rope?

[shortline10]

New factory recoil handle will seal it .



son of a b.. just spraying the mud off with the hose after riding I lost spark again... Any tips on sealing the pull cord, piece of rubber or something that fits nicely in the hole with a tight fit around the rope?