Mailman delivered my new 200x “motor” today

[Shep1970]

This will become a build thread (I have until trikefest next yr to complete)

A plug+play project- I just need to put aside some cash for the costly lithium battery.....
60v- 1800watt -more torque/2-3 times of a 200x- speed (not sure yet) the controller(brain) for this brushless motor is controlled through an app on an i-phone for setting changes. Should be interesting.

Still waiting on assortment of 530 sprockets that will be turned down to 520.
I’ve done lots of reading(research) on this, still have more to learn though.
It’ll be based on the 86/87 200x cuz that’s what I have parts for:)
Its for my youngest(14) but I’m first in line......
I even found a cool electric thumb throttle,
Anyone feel free to add any thoughts (good or bad) :beer

It’ll come together slow at first/ I think I have the majority of parts for this project put away somewhere.

254448 254449

Thanks for looking——-

Shep

[Gabriel]

If done right, that will be wicked:twisted::twisted::twisted:

No waiting for power. Instant peak power.

Batteries are ALWAYS the real issue with electric. How sweet if you could gut an old tank and store them (or at least some of them) there.

Will it be digitally controlled? Just curious how you would have a speed control otherwise. Top speed potential exceeds sanity. I like it!!!!

What's the max RPM of the motor? Easy to extrapolate top speed; sprocket ratio and tire size.

When complete you should look into a solar panel with a trickle charger setup to mount on top of your garage. Just plug it in when you're done playing.

[Shep1970]

If done right, that will be wicked:twisted::twisted::twisted:

No waiting for power. Instant peak power.

Batteries are ALWAYS the real issue with electric. How sweet if you could gut an old tank and store them (or at least some of them) there.

Will it be digitally controlled? Just curious how you would have a speed control otherwise. Top speed potential exceeds sanity. I like it!!!!

What's the max RPM of the motor? Easy to extrapolate top speed; sprocket ratio and tire size.

When complete you should look into a solar panel with a trickle charger setup to mount on top of your garage. Just plug it in when you're done playing.

As I’ve read- i want to run 20” rears- this motor has a 5:1 ratio, runs at or near 3000rpm but the reducer for torque brings it down to 600 ish- but 2-3 times the torque of a 200x engine-

So I’ve some sprocket/gearing to sort out —— May not be fast this time around(but it’ll get to top speed quick) figure I’d learn on this motor (then upgrade) at some point. I’d be happy with a 25-30mph/ not looking for 1/4 mile run times.
Being a brushless motor I’ve read it can be over volted by 20-30% and be fine.
Its a China motor so spec pages have all been different- I’ll have to see how it goes for myself.

Aiming for a two hour run time/ 6-7 hour full charge time- is the reason for this motor///also (larger motor=more power needed=bigger battery pack=lots more $$$
Still need to keep my son safe..........most importantly

Gabriel- the gas tank will most likely be plastic/ 86/87 tank w/no filler hole/ still working on it( electronics inside) you’ll see;)
Oh the battery pack is roughly 10x8x6 inches being lithium there far lighter than reg batts. I’ll find a place for it;)
Shep

[Dirtcrasher]

You know my shop has open doors for you bud... I'd love to help you with this...

[Shep1970]

You know my shop has open doors for you bud... I'd love to help you with this...

I’m counting on your help(I’ll need it) thankyou.

[ironchop]

I wanna ride it when it's done

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[86T3]

That's friggin cool. I'll definitely be watching this build

[MattDragontamer]

I was working on such an idea a while back. I found making mockups with cardboard or cardstock to the exact specs of each component helped to get an idea of placement.

I found that if you place the motor in the front bottom end of the engine spot you should have room for 3 to 4 batteries. There is a battery quick swap system which has quick disconnects that can be mounted to any screw pole battery which will make it easy to swap. If you want you can use the tank to hide all the electrical parts, but it will take some heavy mods.

In addition, I found that to be able to place the motor in the right spot, I would have to put a bearing mount with a dual cog to make things line up.

[Arky-X]

I may be saying things you already know......

Lithium Iron Phosphate is a common type used in DIY electric cars. This place has several to pick from;
https://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4/LiFeMnPO4-Batteries.aspx

Remember that even with lithium, you shouldn't drain them dead. It reduces the life on them (not as bad as lead acid but still reduces the life.)
Also have to have some sort of charge controller or battery management system. There isn't a "trickle" charge when it is charged. It must stop charging once within its tolerance voltage.

Depending on the specs on that motor....voltage is speed so if you think you want some top end....up the voltage. Of course that means parallel-ing more batterie$ to get range.
Most electric motorcycles I see are 72 or 96V. But most of those are 400+ pounds because they are using lead acid and they want 50-70 mph.

If you are going to have a light (12V) on it then you might want a DC/DC converter or run a separate battery just for that.

Good luck! Looks like a fun project......just don't drive it through water.

[yamaha_ripper98]

Cool idea look forward to watching this build.

You should look into a way to run a jackshaft of sorts or have a pulley/sprocket set up somewhere that way you can capture the kinetic energy when riding to run a belt or a chain and hook up to a alternator or some sort of recharging device so you can charge as its in motion.

thats what I would do at least. why waste all the potential energy as only kinetic energy just for fun when you can capture it and recharge as its going. not like it would take any noticeable power from the final ride.

even if you have a seperate battery pack or a capacitor recharging on the bike would suffice. It wouldn't necessarily even have to be recharging the power source of the motor. You then you could also run the circuit in a way to have a toggle to flip to change between power sources on the fly. or simply toggle the capacitor to run the battery if you went that route for your recharge mechanism.

I know thats what I would do for a project like this. Regardless hope it turns out as expected for you and props for a cool idea.


I would likely get a speed controller pressure switch and a crystal operated servo, so you could use a crystal radio style controller with the same MHz frequency as the servo crystal to not be relying on a smartphone for the brains.

just like a remote controlled truck gas or electric and then you could also better waterproof and not have nearly as much of a chance of interference or have such limited ranges.

tower hobbies has all the servos and crystals at pretty good prices and they have some really great ranges anymore 5 km with the right antenna so that is 3.11 miles from the controlling mechanism. and its not expensive at all. to get them ranges.

[Shep1970]

I may be saying things you already know......

Lithium Iron Phosphate is a common type used in DIY electric cars. This place has several to pick from;
https://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4/LiFeMnPO4-Batteries.aspx

Remember that even with lithium, you shouldn't drain them dead. It reduces the life on them (not as bad as lead acid but still reduces the life.)
Also have to have some sort of charge controller or battery management system. There isn't a "trickle" charge when it is charged. It must stop charging once within its tolerance voltage.

Depending on the specs on that motor....voltage is speed so if you think you want some top end....up the voltage. Of course that means parallel-ing more batterie$ to get range.
Most electric motorcycles I see are 72 or 96V. But most of those are 400+ pounds because they are using lead acid and they want 50-70 mph.

If you are going to have a light (12V) on it then you might want a DC/DC converter or run a separate battery just for that.

Good luck! Looks like a fun project......just don't drive it through water.
Thanks for the battery link/ to rich for my blood on that site though, I’m just going with an eBay 60v 30ah or 40ah / maybe the 72v though so I have more options with power- it will be my last purchase/ I’m still figuring that out.
I guess the lithium batteries-motor controller and charger have over/under charging protection built in. I’ve read these batteries can explode so it’s good to have 3-way protection.....254475 254476. 254477 battery (30lbs)

So far-bare frame+tripple 33 lbs
Elec Motor 28 lbs. the stock 86/87 engine weighs 96 lbs (wet) gotta check on that though
Controller(brains to run brushless motor 26 lbs (edit) ((I was wrong it’s only 2 lbs)) very light
Battery 30 lbs
Swinger+axle+hubs 53 lbs

Yammy ripper- theres supposedly a regenerative braking charge system- can can be turned off/on. May be used for lights/ I need to read more about it.
I was at first thinking abou a belt drive but a chain won because It’d be easier.

I’ll put motor very roughly in the frame later today/ see how she fits.
Shep

[Arky-X]

Thanks for the battery link/ to rich for my blood on that site though, I’m just going with an eBay 60v 30ah or 40ah / maybe the 72v though so I have more options with power- it will be my last purchase/ I’m still figuring that out.
I guess the lithium batteries-motor controller and charger have over/under charging protection built in. I’ve read these batteries can explode so it’s good to have 3-way protection.....254475 254476. 254477 battery (30lbs)

So far-bare frame+tripple 33 lbs
Elec Motor 28 lbs. the stock 86/87 engine weighs 96 lbs (wet) gotta check on that though
Controller(brains to run brushless motor 26 lbs
Battery 30 lbs
Swinger+axle+hubs 53 lbs

Yammy ripper- theres supposedly a regenerative braking charge system- can can be turned off/on. May be used for lights/ I need to read more about it.
I was at first thinking abou a belt drive but a chain won because It’d be easier.

I’ll put motor very roughly in the frame later today/ see how she fits.
Shep

Looks like that already has a BMS so no need for anything else on the charging side. I've bought smaller lithium cells from eBay and they worked fine on small projects.


Specs show 282lb for a 200X and I know my 350X engine is right at 100lb so 96lb is probably about right for a 200x. Maybe a hair less.
200X - engine + motor + brains + battery
282 - 96 + 28 + 26 + 30 = 270lb ........ ish
Not going to be much difference on stock weight since you are using lithium.



Going to have to make my way to the upcoming Trikefest just to see this thing.
I was part of our electric/solar boat team in college and had a blast.
http://solarsplash.com/
Learned a lot about theory vs real-world on that project.

[Shep1970]

Looks like that already has a BMS so no need for anything else on the charging side. I've bought smaller lithium cells from eBay and they worked fine on small projects.


Specs show 282lb for a 200X and I know my 350X engine is right at 100lb so 96lb is probably about right for a 200x. Maybe a hair less.
200X - engine + motor + brains + battery
282 - 96 + 28 + 26 + 30 = 270lb ........ ish
Not going to be much difference on stock weight since you are using lithium.



Going to have to make my way to the upcoming Trikefest just to see this thing.
I was part of our electric/solar boat team in college and had a blast.
http://solarsplash.com/
Learned a lot about theory vs real-world on that project.

I figure 3+gallons of fuel weighs 20lbs — roughly 6lbs per gal so that’s one thing on weight loss-
No exhaust- the stock is pretty heavy unknown weight maybe 25-30lbs
2-ply maybe Chen Ching knobby or turf tamers / lightest I can find

On my searches - this motor will push 1600kg=3500 lbs ///highly doubt that much though, so hopefully the bike+rider weight will be easy for it.

I’m excited about this project “but” gotta do my homework first/ things add up quickly$
We’re due for a trikefest with “no” rain or just enough to keep the dust down......
Shep

[Gabriel]

The more I ponder this thread the more I REALLY like it. Makes me lament not paying attention in school and getting an education. This is definitely over my head.

Can't wait to see a video of this thing in action. Talk about a sneaky quiet ride.

You're going to be shedding some weight and a LOT of moving parts. Yearly maintenance: few grease fittings and some chain lube.

I'm sure you have already but if not, Check out ZERO brand motorcycles. Norman Reedus does a show called Ride with Norman Reedus. He rode one and that thing was great!
Here's one beating a 5.0 Mustang in a drag race
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftVI1AARqMM

[Shep1970]

Yup Norman reedus— the wife loves that guy- from the walking dead tv show. She’s counting the days until it comes back on.

Shep

[Dirtcrasher]

Think of all the nice aluminum mounts and brackets we can make :naughty:

[Shep1970]

Think of all the nice aluminum mounts and brackets we can make :naughty:

Yup the mounts are going to be interesting. If it ever stops raining here I could get the bike frame out of the shed. This was in the mailbox today 30tooth rear sprocket:). I like shiny parts. My front sprockets are still on the boat coming from Taiwan. Think I got the slow boat. 254488

Shep

[Gabriel]

Yup the mounts are going to be interesting.

Shep


Just thinking out loud here. Would it compromise the motor if you removed the four bolts on the drive end and used a longer bolt? You could machine a hole in some plate to clear that tapered face and then bolt the plate and motor back together. You could then weld to the plate in whatever fashion you needed to. If you have access to a lathe with a large enough 4 jaw I would turn the compound slide to match that taper and get MORE surface contact. That would also make for a repeatably accurate placement so taking apart and re-assembling wouldn't get you out of alignment. Can't really see the other end so no idea how to support that side.




Wonder what's under that black ring in between the 4 bolts? If that's a solid structure you machine a slip fit sleeve that could fit around it with 4 ears to take advantage of the existing bolts. IF that's solid under there, that would be a pretty rigid mount. Would still need something on the other end though.

[Shep1970]

Just thinking out loud here. Would it compromise the motor if you removed the four bolts on the drive end and used a longer bolt? You could machine a hole in some plate to clear that tapered face and then bolt the plate and motor back together. You could then weld to the plate in whatever fashion you needed to. If you have access to a lathe with a large enough 4 jaw I would turn the compound slide to match that taper and get MORE surface contact. That would also make for a repeatably accurate placement so taking apart and re-assembling wouldn't get you out of alignment. Can't really see the other end so no idea how to support that side.




Wonder what's under that black ring in between the 4 bolts? If that's a solid structure you machine a slip fit sleeve that could fit around it with 4 ears to take advantage of the existing bolts. IF that's solid under there, that would be a pretty rigid mount. Would still need something on the other end though.

Under the black trim with the four bolts is the gear reduction (supposedly the three small gears can be changed out for 4:1 / 5:1 or 6:1 ratio- I haven’t investigated that any further.

The motor itself has a good sturdy base/ it’s a one piece metal shroud w/fins for cooling.
The other end has a fan, sealed shaft on bearing/ it pulls/pushes air past the ridges.
Pics- a couple are not mine:254489 254490 254491 254492

Shep

[taiterator]

Excited to see this done!!

[Gabriel]

Ok, yeah that's not strong under there. I would stick with a face plate and longer bolts to compensate.

You weren't wrong. Mounts are going to be interesting for sure.
I wonder what the manufacturer has to say about mounting?
Probably....we got your money, you're on your own.

[Shep1970]

Yup there isn’t much info/ I really need to dig to find what I’m looking for. I’ve been lurking on gocart/elec conversions forums and scooter forums for some good info though. This “Should” come together ok. :naughty:

At first I wanted to put gocart wheels on the back with 10” pvc water pipe sections over the tires. Woulda been fun but limited where to ride it (pavement).

Shep

[Dirtcrasher]

Gee, a lathe, Hmmm, that would be sweel - Who's got one of those?? :lol:

This is perfect timing, I've got Brians frame just about done, 2 350X heads to fix in the mill, and last is a run of 250R head light guards to make, but those are no hurry.

I had thought about this when I saw the Alta electric dirtbike, should probably read up on those.

Next up, the "Shepelectric" trike...

EDIT - Did I mention dad's an electrical engineer?? He's good too...

[Dirtcrasher]

The Alta Drive and Battery:

That's a big battery!! 1 to 3 hours run time...

[Shep1970]

Well, I placed the motor in/ close to where it needs to be(within 1/2 inch anyway). The central weight of the motor is very close to center of frame(good), the rear brake pedal “should”be ok too. Odd that the top back motor mount is near perfect dimension as top back bolt of elec motor. That should be used when figured for mounting. The fan side will be fine for foot peg (I took the fan shroud off but it’s pretty flush w/fan when installed.
I’m still waiting on the correct front sprockets, there getting closer(NY) should have em by Wednesday. So I still can’t do much until then. I’ll put the tripple on today (yup I’ll be dropping little balls I’m sure) on second thought maybe not it’ll be in the way (hit my head on it)....
Here’s a couple pics:254550 254551 254552 254553 254554 254555

So far so good:)
Edit: got some front sprockets delivered today- 254650
Shep

[yz96]

That is too cool, can't wait to see the progress! I've been wanting to do this for a long time now. Would be cool if you could get the motor mounted on the swingarm. Perfect weight placement. How much does a motor like that cost?

[Shep1970]

That is too cool, can't wait to see the progress! I've been wanting to do this for a long time now. Would be cool if you could get the motor mounted on the swingarm. Perfect weight placement. How much does a motor like that cost?

Motor was around $250 but have seen the same motor listed for 400 ish on other sites.
actually thought about mounting it on the swingarm, but I need to keep some weight upfront to keep the front down “just Incase” I put the battery pack in a six/pack style grab bar.
Also this will have the stock suspension so a possibility of bottoming the frame onto the motor if it was mounted back on the swingarm wouldn’t be good.
Not necessarily looking for a wheelie machine.
No real progress I gotta do this thing called “work” :Bounce:Bounce:crazy:
The elec motor sprocket will be in the same location as the stock engine sprocket so the suspension moves without interferance. Well u know what I mean.

Shep

[ironchop]

I'm digging this project

Hey Shep let me know if you need some help with the machined stuff you might need

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Still gathering parts, but I’m getting close to a roller- still need to purchase a front hub though. I’ve been replacing bearings and seals as I go, no paint until final assembly- “learned that the hard way”

Thanks for the offer ironchop, I just need to get my butt down to “crashers” but work keeps getting in the way!!!!!!!

Recently picked up another set of those “foot fence” peg guards for this project- think I spent more for stainless hardware than for the actual guards. 83/84 250r axle is waiting to be used also.
The company I’m purchasing the brushless motor “controller” from will fill it with a resin so it’ll be waterproof/ so that’ll help. Just a $15 fee.
I might as well use these old stock nuts I bought a while ago 254989 just hate to open it....(just need the washer(shim) still

254987 254988

Thanks for looking

Edit: a few days later-
I decided to paint the swingarm, install the bearings and the correct seal to accept the 250r axle.
Need a new slider though, I’ll have to get one for final assembly.
255029 255030
Just rattle can paint after a good clean up.

And edit again: I’ve got a 520 pitch front sprocket “thank you” steve...for lathe work:Bounce
.....and have the rear axle ready to go. The rear hubs are in the mail. I’m waiting on front hub bearings and seals also. Pics: 255136 255137

I figure next I need to cast from alum a front sprocket cover, I think that’ll be next before winter sets in.
Shep

[floydechoes2000]

I'm loving this project so far! $6.50 for the axle nuts haha that was a great deal - I've never seen the foot fence before and I've been riding since 1980, it's an interesting item for sure!

[Shep1970]

A little backyard machining today/// dumb luck that I had the correct size holesaw. For more speed I need this 30tooth sprocket mounted, the four bolts line up perfectly but needed to bore the center out for the axle washer. Probably could have removed the large washer but with lots of heat I most likely would have ruined the rubber cushions. The chain will clear the hub by 3mm. :Bounce
Pics
255159 255160 255161 255162 255163 255164

Shep
And thanks again to dirtcrasher for cutting my front sprocket.....

[deathwobble]

I'm no electric motor expert by anymeans but when you reduce power to the motor will it coast or will it cause engine braking to occur? not that the engine braking would be bad would just make it interesting to ride if it engine brakes. I know power tools or instance usually keep spinning but ive ran electric fork lifts that would brake automaticlly when letting off the the throttle and not sure if it was from the motors or what.

[Shep1970]

I'm no electric motor expert by anymeans but when you reduce power to the motor will it coast or will it cause engine braking to occur? not that the engine braking would be bad would just make it interesting to ride if it engine brakes. I know power tools or instance usually keep spinning but ive ran electric fork lifts that would brake automaticlly when letting off the the throttle and not sure if it was from the motors or what.

It’ll coast/ but not like being in neutral it will have a little resistance. I’ll let you know:)
I can spin the motor by hand without a sprocket “not to easily”, but I think when there’s weight behind it/more leverage it’ll be fine(I think)
Many go carts and buggy’s out there that are electric powered/ haven’t heard of anyone complaining about letting off power and the wheels locking up.

Shep
Ps. I’m no expert either........
The term regenerative engine braking isn’t really “braking” its when throttle is off and motor is still turning it will produce power back into the batteries.

Just ordered my tires-20-10x9 255169

[Gabriel]

Oh that's cool! Especially if you have a lot of hills to ride. Once you pass the learning curve of riding it, getting a slight charge to the batteries every time you coast down a hill would be great!

[Arky-X]

Motor should coast with the only the bearings and any other internal resistance in the motor slowing you down (along with the rest of the drive train.)

Some info on regen braking;
https://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8848

Basically, regen braking is easier with an AC motor. Permanent magnet DC motors can but the controller has to be able to accommodate that as well. It is even more complicated with a series wound DC motor.



Also want to consider a kill switch operating a breaker or fuse. If a controller fails, it is possible all the voltage is applied to the motor......and off you go!

Looking good!
Following this project.

[deathwobble]

Didn't think the tires would necessarily lock up just very noticeable braking but like i said i really don't know much on the topic. Arky-X seems to know a lot about it and say your all good. Super interesting build none the less. What are those tires you ordered?

[deathwobble]

Arky-X's breaker idea seems smart to, something i'd never think of but a run away bike with no kill switch sounds pretty sketchy.

[Shep1970]

Arky-X's breaker idea seems smart to, something i'd never think of but a run away bike with no kill switch sounds pretty sketchy.
Thanks, I was planning on a master disconnect switch/ something like this (pic) was going to put it where the gas filler cap would go normally, so it’s easy to grab if needed- started the mold for the plastic tank today-(it’ll take a lot of thinking) but it’ll be December before I pour anything, then I’ll pick a master switch that’ll fit good. And a volt/amp display in the tank somewhere too
The tires are just cheap tires/ I didn’t want knobbies/ also really didn’t want 6/ply (more weight) but they’ll be fine. He likes doing donuts......they should slide easy.(I hope)
255188 255189

Shep

[knappyfeet]

Looking good!

Maybe you already said but....what is the battery cost? Can the motor accept variations in watts/volts/amp/etc?

[Shep1970]

Looking good!

Maybe you already said but....what is the battery cost? Can the motor accept variations in watts/volts/amp/etc?
On quick searches the battery is anywhere from 500 to 800 dollars.
Knappy, from what I understand a lot of guys “over volt” these motors- add 12v over what it calls for,
This bike at this point will have a:
72v battery
72v controller
My motor is only a 60v motor- the extra 12v will give some extra grunt without burning up:)
The controller/ (brain) is programmable/ I have an electric thumb throttle that’ll wire into it to regulate speed/power

Shep
i figure just the battery we can take camping w/us- to charge phones/lights and things w/power converter (makes the battery cost almost ok)

[Dirtcrasher]

Don't do any of that backyard machining, just come to my house!!

I am MORE than happy to help :D

[Gabriel]

Might not be a bad idea to add a boat/jet ski type kill switch with a tether cord. If it were to have a system failure and throw the rider, that thing could end up in the next county!

[x-rider]

Cool project Shep! Interested to see how this turns out.

[redsox]

im a fan of the ICE, but to each his own. Its cool and different for sure. I wish you luck. Please do me one favor. In 20 years, when you've had your fun with this thing, and its been sitting for awhile, please please please post it on c-list and write, "Mint, wont run, just needs a carb clean"

[Arky-X]

im a fan of the ICE, but to each his own. Its cool and different for sure. I wish you luck. Please do me one favor. In 20 years, when you've had your fun with this thing, and its been sitting for awhile, please please please post it on c-list and write, "Mint, wont run, just needs a carb clean"

"No rust in tank"
"High performance exhaust"

[Shep1970]

I tell ya, this thing is adding up in cost—from master switches, regular on/off switch, amp/volt meter, reverse/forward switch, voltage shunt for meters, fuse block with voltage reg for lights- just ordered a motor controller from London, controller watertight box also ordered, Assortment of wire/pigtails.....
Also need to order one of those fancy x-ring chains (less chain noise)
Super excited to see what I end up with still though:)


Tires/rims are coming today:Bounce
Still need to figure motor mounting- think I gotta plan for that
Edit:
Tires mounted/:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce:Bounce
A little over inflated right now/ waiting on two small areas of bead to pop
255263 255264

Edit again: just a pic of other parts either cleaned up or new for this project
255339 255478 I bought a nice rim that came with the tire already mounted that’s in great shape so that’s what I’ll go with....
Shock may need to be rebuilt- not sure yet...it’s been on my shelf for a few yrs.

Edit:more pics
Still waiting on amp/volt display - three way toggle for three speed option- and reverse switch button. I’m going to purchase 5 “cheap” 12v 12ah batteries just for testing... before a big lithium battery is bought.
255533 255534 255535

——— two weeks later—— I’m “still” gathering parts
Still need or ordered-50 amp breaker/fuses holders. Batt wire/ small misc stuff. But almost ready to bench test motor.
Still gotta modify the frame, kinda looking forward to it but wish I could do it in the living room....
255833
Gotta pause my hobby spending $ for x-mas present buying though.
I’ll add a new post when I actually have something put together.
Shep

[Shep1970]

I wasn’t planning on making a new post until I had the frame done oh well, So anyway I know that the China brake pads are junk!!!! But I have had no issues at all with the China rear calipers themselves. So off to eBay and I buy one of those $80
Dollar China Honda 200x front calipers (bad move) oh well. It shows up and looks good then I start searching eBay to see what this caliper was originally intended for- not 5 minutes go by and come across the “GY6” scooter front calipers and guess what it’s the same damn caliper....... for less that 30 bucks.
So I buy one to compare and it’s identical to the one that was 80+ shipping....(I bought a Chrome one for $29)
I have pics but already removed the tire- will load them in a few mins.

256016 256017 256018 256019 256020 256021
256022
Had to use the oem bracket though
I know oem caliper is better but I didn’t have one and eBay used/and most likely a rebuild needed are not cheap either so opted to go this route.

Shep

[ps2fixer]

Not sure how I missed this build. Full electric machines will likely be the future assuming battery tech continues to improve. Ligher and more power stored in smaller and smaller areas will make full electric bikes/cars etc much more popular.

I was looking into an electric super tiny pickup like a VW Caddy, but never had to funds for all the required parts.

I didn't get a chance to read the whole thread so far, does the motor controller support regeneration for deceleration? Being an off road machine, assuming you have a lot of hills around, you might extend the range for your batteries by a fair amount with a regen system.

Anyway subbed for the build. Good luck with the project.

[Shep1970]

Not sure how I missed this build. Full electric machines will likely be the future assuming battery tech continues to improve. Ligher and more power stored in smaller and smaller areas will make full electric bikes/cars etc much more popular.

I was looking into an electric super tiny pickup like a VW Caddy, but never had to funds for all the required parts.

I didn't get a chance to read the whole thread so far, does the motor controller support regeneration for deceleration? Being an off road machine, assuming you have a lot of hills around, you might extend the range for your batteries by a fair amount with a regen system.

Anyway subbed for the build. Good luck with the project.

Yes, the controller does the regeneration braking function but I’ll leave it turned off until I read more about it, (Less wiring) for now too.
I think I’ve got all my switches- just waiting on a 60-72v electrical contactor (high power switch that can be turned on/offw/low voltage)
Had to go buy a soldering iron and good wire crimpers/strippers.
I bought an electric atv wire harness (cheap) mostly just for the correct end plugs.
These things “Should” set me in the right direction:D
It’ll be a learning experience anyway.........
256138 256139

Shep
The two wires on front master cylinder shuts the motor power down: and brake light- (yes just a China master)

[ps2fixer]

Hopefully the cheap harness you bought wasn't made in China, they have the worst wire and crimps I've ever seen. I could pull some pins from parts I have to show examples if needed. Their terminals are thinner too, so can handle less less amps.

When I first got into harness building, I bought all my supplies from http://cycleterminal.com/ The site is a bit of a funky layout (the left navigation bar changes as you click categories). It looks like you mainly have bullet terminals, and 110 Sumitomo MTW series connectors on the harness in the photo. 3.5mm bullet terminals are typical on Honda harnesses, other brands commonly used the 3.9/4mm size. Larger one of course supports more amps.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/terminal-kits.html

If most of the wiring you're looking to build are just simple signal, relay, lighting etc, might be worth while using sealed connectors so corrosion won't ever be a problem. The 090 Sumitomo HM series seals up well, very similar shape to the 4+2 style CDI connectors.

Anything that's higher powered, like 10 amps + should use larger terminals, the 250 (1/4in) connectors can handle quite a lot, commonly used for regulators and such.

Also for frame grounds, and the bolt on wiring, these ring terminals would likely be what you'd want. I use the 6.4mm ones on my harnesses, even when the bolt can support a 5mm one. They are super thick, not exactly fun to crimp. The site sells crimp tools too. On their tool page, the first one (green handled) I've had since the start and use it all the time for the ring terminals and bullets. It can also be used for the 250 terminals, but I have a Japanese tool (~$100) that works well on them. Mid way down the red handled crimper works for the 090 crimps, and 110, the handles are a bit short, so you have to put a lot of effort into the crimps. I ended up buying another Japanese crimper to do the wire conductor crimp, and still use the red handled one for the seal/insulation crimp. The Japanese tool I think was fairly cheap but good crimps are a lot easier to get out of them, the only marking on it is Engineer PA-01 Wire Plier. Also near the bottom of the tools page has a nice diagram of good vs bad crimps.

I could also make the pig tails up so you can just crimp or solder the harness together, or sells just the connector/terminals you need for a reasonable price.

Just would hate to have electrical issues on an electrical powered bike lol. After a crimp, it's possible to solder it as well, time consuming but ensures it won't fall apart in a few years.

Either way, good luck with the project, wiring is just my thing lol.

[Shep1970]

Thank you, and thanks for the link- (Yes cheap China) harness. My plan is to have the wiring all working on a table to test/run it. (No wire lengths would be right) (just quick connections) then as I transfer to the frame/bike I’d upgrade wires/connections as i go. Well that’s the “plan” anyway......
“as long as no-one stands in the puddle I ride through”:beer:rolleyes: (kidding)

Here’s one more pic w/the “correct” hub- I had a 350x hub-the Small differences wouldn’t work w/the 200x forks. Thanx again for trading for a 86/87 hub steve. It’s all lined up great now:beer 256148 and the wheel is centered.........

Shep

[dirtwheels]

Love watching this project evolve. Here is some inspiration for you Shep. Found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWbz6dvtljk
https://bvctrikes.com/

This thing looks like a lot of fun!

[Shep1970]

That thing goes pretty good!!!! I’d like to know how much $ he’s got into the batt/motor I bet it’s close to 5-6grand just in those alone. My little 60v/1800w at some point will be upgraded to a 3000w later on. Those Alta bikes are too new at this point to find a tranny for one(with my pocket change)$. A little camp cruiser is what I’ll have, should be fun though.

Just purchased 3-gallons of rtv silicone for a plastic tank mold, if I have enough left I will also mold a plastic engine case (empty cavity) for batteries so mud/dirt coming off the front wheel won’t cover them w/dirt. It’ll be good inside work for the cold days.
Ive decided against lithium batts for now, so I’ve got 5- 12v,20ah lead/acid sealed agm batteries coming. After reading/watching fires/explosions utube vids about lithium I’m scared of em’. Hopefully by the end of next wk I’ll have the motor mounts roughed in. Whenever I think I have spare time my phone rings for more const work/this time of yr I can’t turn it down(seems never ending this yr.(not a bad thing)

Shep

[ps2fixer]

Lithium Ion batterys are relatively safe, if they have a proper charge controller and protection circuits. Physical damage is probably the biggest risk on an ATV. Do some readying on a DIY power wall, these people take old junk laptop batteries apart for the 18650 cells, charge, test, then assemble into a battery bank. The common design is to make each "battery" a ton of cells in parrallel, so the amps increases, but voltage stays the same. They use a small fuse wire to connect one end of the cell to the bus bars, so if the battery goes bad and shorts or the leads get shorted somehow, it burns instead of the batteries going up in smoke. Then a charge controller is used to charge the batteries. I don't think they have much more for over draw protection. Ideally you'd match identical capacity and discharge rated batteries together, for a project like yours I'd assume you'd be going with all new cells.

There's a lot of stuff out there for the DIY power packs for construction of the batteries. I suspect if you built a case around them with a mold, kind of like how a drill battery is made, you'd have the physical damage at a low risk. Be mindful the batteries do heat up a little from charging and discharging, so a way to vent them would be ideal. These little batteries can have some crazy discharge specs, like a single cell capable of 30amp peak discharge. A small pack would get you by short term, you just wouldn't have much range. If I recall correctly, some people are putting 12 of these cells together to start their car like a jumper pack, have to be careful because of the charging system on the car though, it doesn't support the Li-Ion batteries at all, I think the video I saw they had the alternator unhooked. Pretty impressive for such a small battery even though it was a smaller car engine.

Anyway, like anything there's a trade off for risk vs benefit. The lead acids can do some bad stuff too, like when they fail, sometimes they fail in a dead short internally, make a bunch of heat and can catch fire (the gases). It's pretty rare for it to go that extreme though. Also when charging a flooded lead acid, the gases coming off the battery can be flammable.

Knowledge is power, knowing how to deal with what you're working with is the best solution, which ever route you go with.

Also here's a fun vid of an electric dirt bike. Not the one I saw before (was a DIY build), but this thing is pretty interesting, and keeps up with the gas powered ones just fine. He's even riding it on a limited "map" for torque to preserve the battery life. If I heard the owner right, he gets 3.75 hours mx ride time out of the bike on the highest map.

https://youtu.be/CaCo6SWyedU?t=388

[Shep1970]

Well it’s been almost 2-weeks. Just a quick update- the motor mount is roughed in, hopefully get her all welded up before the snow this wk end. It’s 5mm steel plate (just under 1/4”) it adds about 5 lbs. the top mount I’ll do in aluminum I think, it’s more for cosmetic reasons than strength. I made the mounting plate bigger than needed (front to back) I don’t want to be messin’ with half links...
256769 256770 256771 256772 256773

Thanks for looking,
Shep

[ironchop]

Awesome work so far.

This is definitely the most interesting build on here in a very long time. No offense to anyone else, but that's just my opinion. Gas powered trike stuff has been done every which way you could imagine, but this electric stuff is fascinating and it's going to be our future whether we like it or not

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Well I’m back at this project- never really stopped just haven’t posted about it. I did recieve the lithium battery the other day it weighs about 15lbs if I tried using lead acid the batteries would have weighed about 100lbs- for the same 24.5 ah rating.
I’m mounting it under the seat I figure with no airbox it’s a nice spot, in one of the pics you can see it as green poster board but it’s going to be 1/8inch steel plate (to keep it safe from sticks/rocks) open in front/back for cooling.
The steel plate I’m having my son bend it up at his school shop (they’ve got a nice press that’ll do it) yay...so I hope to get this project moving on it’s own very soon, (Minus fenders) I don’t have em yet. I have a seat though.
Also I’ve gotta get some fuses and better non/China small connections.
The steel battery tray will add about 8lbs but that’s ok, (It’s that orange plate you see).
The battery actually has a key on/off and also locks it onto a included plate, I bought a 1/4” rubber sheet that’ll be between the battery and steel plate for a tad extra cusion.
Oh- the battery and charger cost, ya I’m not gonna say..... it wasn’t cheap I’ll put it that way.
The motor mount/plate has been welded in too.
I guess that’s it for now, 258837 258838 258839 258840 258841 258842

Edit: well I’ve got the motor running:Bounce. Momentary button for reverse works great, 3-speed works, key switch works like it should. I need to get the front master cylinder two wires hooked up (when braking it is a motor shut down)
I had the battery box bent up so that’s done, Hope to get it welded in the frame this wk end. The motor sounds strong... it’s hard to explain kinda silent with a rumble.
Ps2, chop — ignore my wiring it s getting an overhaul
258872

I still need a tailight/ connections are there: 12v out of control box, headlight connection is also there just not hooked up (tested fine)
Shep

[Shep1970]

Progress, it’s not powder coat. An auto body shop (friends shop) down the street sprayed it for me, it’s a mixture of leftover paints they had. I told him I did not want “pumpkin” orange or safety orange this is somewhere between the two.
I figure white tank, orange shrouds and orange headlight w/white fenders and stock decals but have orange where the red would be on the decals.
Kinda wish I painted the swingarm white instead of silver but it is what it is...

259366 259367 259368
Thanks for looking,

Shep

Edit: here’s a pic back inside the house-battery mounted/ on the locking plate. I need to drill 7/8”
hole for a grommet out the front. I’m doing a (little) every day so hope to have significant progress this week. I hope....

259425

[Gabriel]

You gotta incorporate a "High Voltage" emblem on this somewhere.

Lookin' good!

[ps2fixer]

Not a bad color of orange, unique color for a build I think, orange and white seems like it would go together well in my mind.

[Dirtcrasher]

SHEP!! Cmon over with the wife and kids! Track is 100% done and dry!!

I'll powder anything you want, FFF - Free for friends!!

Hope all is well

[Shep1970]

Thanks, we’ve been meaning to come by. Was working on the the bike outside this am in the driveway then the wife (Jaime) say’s hey it’s getting dark I said it’s not gonna rain.....and not 5mins later (video).
Windows in the house/cars (no keys to cars) on us and the sky opened up big time.
The rain coming off the roof was unbelievable... welcome to my day
https://youtu.be/KYCL6LwuRfA

Shep
I just need work to slow down/ the weekends come and I’m so worn out. It sucks

[Shep1970]

Piecing it together, started gathering parts this week. I realized I was missing a collar for mounting the rear brake resi, ordered one/recieved it yesterday, well today going through some parts boxes I found 3....figures.
I used a cloth covered type resevior line (chickened out on the steel braided line) I didn’t feel like loosing blood today.
I’m going to do the steering stem tonight so next wk it’s the swinger and forks and I’ll have a roller. YAY...
I bought a blaster/banshee tailight for this project, it’s tiny (half size of Honda’s) so hopefully the battery will slide out underneath it easily out the back and it’ll mount nicely to my (made to fit) blaster grab bar I hope.

259581 259582 259583 259584 259585

A couple days later, im just going to edit and put a couple pics here: adding a little shine, 1/8” alum sheet I figure adding 3 more lbs isn’t going to hurt. Motor plate, and two panels mounted to the 3 stock frame/motor mounts, they’ll be a 2-1/2” space between them for the motor controller/ main circuit breaker and battery indicator and a phone charger of sorts. Probably a main disconect too but there’s already a couple failsafes built in the system. The alum sheet is out of harms way to get hurt by it I think, they’ll be in the center of the frame only a little wider than the top frame tube.

259594 259595

One side done, well I have to cut some spacers but so far so good.
Think I’ll give it a brushed alum look though instead of this mirror finish.
259614 259615
Those three motor wires you see need to go through the alum plate but I won’t drill those until it’s ready to be wired up.

Shep

[Shep1970]

She’s moving outside. I’ll weigh it as it goes together. She won’t be moving on it’s own power today but I suppose this is a step closer.
259627 259628 259629 259630 259631
I “should” have everything I need, guess I’ll find out today.


She’s already defying gravity:naughty:

Tires/axle/swinger 82lbs
259632 259633

Now to attach them-
Then front end-forks/tree/tire/hub/caliper 44lbs
259635 259636

Done for today:beer
259637

———
I worked on this till about 8 last night. Motor is in/ chain is on I need to tighten it a little. The suspension works great, I needed to remove the 1/8” alum plate under the motor and add 1/2” plate for the chain/swingarm geometry to be right. In other words so the chain wouldn’t tighten/loosen as rear suspension traveled.
All set now/ pain in the butt to get right though. It’s a cheap colored china chain for now (now that I know how many links I’ll buy a good one) luckily the front/rear sprocket alignment was very close I used a straight edge and a laser tool I bought and honestly the straight edge worked better.
“Hope” to have this moving later today on it’s own power, well maybe
259642

[Dirtcrasher]

If you need any .1875, .250 or .3125 aluminum plate, I have quite a bit!

C'mon by anytime, tracks 100% done...

[ironchop]

62+82+44=188lbs

So, 188lbs so far sans motor and battery pack?

You think you can pull in under 250lbs fully assembled? Seems plausible to me

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Chop, I weighed the motor also this am it was 29lbs.
Battery pack was I believe 13lbs
Seat and fender guessing another 20

I was getting nervous on the weight + my 170lbs

“But” not anymore:beer. Just as it was getting dark tonight it came to life. I kinda rushed buttoning up the wires while being eaten by mosquitos. So keyswitch hanging, a couple wires just thrown together, I put the seat on and hit the throttle and NOTHING/ well untill I noticed I didn’t turn the batt pack on. (Separate key on batt)
I gotta say I’m impressed. I slowly pressed the gas just not knowing what to expect at all- front wheel came right off the ground. I let go of the throttle and the wife said I gave her the holy chit look.
Rode it maybe a couple hundred feet in the dark no lights eating bugs checked to make sure 1,2,3 speed worked and reverse and the brake cut off works they do. Thankfully
Just gotta say I’m very impressed with the power. It’s very quiet, with a helmet on you won’t hear it al all I bet. I can’t wait to experiment with it, the motor controller programmed through an app on my phone and right now I’m only letting it have 75% power u can bet I’ll be turning that up.....
I’m still in awe
I’ll do my best to get a couple videos by next wk end, hmmm I can see a couple sick days this wk.
So yup so far so good.
This is the last pic I took before dark and closing the cover panel 259650
Shep
I’ll edit my grammar later:lol:

Edit: this is how she sits now- chain needs adj I see. I suppose I gotta throw 300 for new fenders now.
My son wants the blue coil spring and seat to stay (it’s his school colors) plays sports.
So that’s ok.
Probably have a whole day messing with odds and ends too to finish it up.
259655 259656 259657

Well he wanted it wide it sits at just over 50” inches. I told him he’d be snaggin’ trees from behind if he’s not careful.

[Red Rider]

Good deal Shep. It's good to see all your hard work & experimentation coming to fruition.

[floydechoes2000]

This is just about the coolest thing ever, I've loved watching this thing come together. Can't wait for more pics and videos! Nice job man.

[big specht]

It’s looking good I like these different builds

[dirtwheels]

Looks great Shep! Very creative. Can't wait to see it all together with the fenders and stuff. You going to put the fuel tank on it? Maybe you can rig it up as a trunk/storage by cutting in a trap door.

[Shep1970]

Thanks guys,
Yes, they’ll be a tank I picked one up from sled crazy over a yr ago for a plastics project that barely got off the ground.
But seeing as though this tank wouldn’t hold loose change (rust) dents it’ll be a great candidate with a quart of bondo (already has a layer of bondo w/primer but needs more work. The filler has already been shaved off for a flat section for volt/amp gauge well that may change not sure yet.
I ordered a o-ring chain yesterday, I did notice even though the motor has a hum the non o-ring chain made just as much noise so maybe orings will quiet it down some.
259668 259669
The tank clears my alum panels underneath by 1/2” inch, lucked out there.
Apologize for sideways pics- I gotta figure that out, maybe hold my phone another way
Shep

[schlepp29]

Very cool shep!

[Arky-X]

Very nice build! I've enjoyed following this one because of how unique it is.

When I was graduating college the GM EV1 was out at the time and my dream was to land something in electric cars (EV1 was the only one at the time) but that died off for about 15 years until the latest Tesla craze.

That is going to be one torque-y machine.

[Shep1970]

Thnx, arky, schlepp
I took a video- you’ll never get your minute back if u watch it:)
One handed, only rear brakes hooked up/ well left front lever hooked up to e-brake, but works for temp.
My phone is close to the motor so you’ll hear the whine.
At maybe 25 feet away it’s silent (still waiting for a new chain)
My older son said he’d hook up his go pro this wkend (woods riding)
Still need to play with motor settings and I’ve still got wires hanging out (not done)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YTsUPJxpIOs

I’m still not use to the throttle it’s different to say the least
Oh if anyone’s wondering, yes the lower stock engine mounts are still there they just aren’t used.
259694

Shep

[ironchop]

Keep your ankle out of that meat grinder.

To repeat myself from YouTube, it sounds like an RC car almost.

I'm blown away and I hope to run into you someday and talk you into letting me ride it [emoji41]... that thing is pretty cool

They could have an electric class next year at pine lake

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

I’m sure to run into you sooner or later chop, RC car yes it does exactly. It does need a front sprocket cover thanks for pointing that out, excited to get it moving I wasn’t even thinking, that will be my next task.

If we are ever at trikefest at the same time stop over for a ride. This build has definetly been a learning experience for sure.... still learning actually.

Shep

[Arky-X]

That was the best 1:24 of my life!

Nice work.....just don't try to cross any creeks.

This thing needs a name;
Electri-X
DC
Charger
ReVolt
Amplifier
Shocker

[Shep1970]

Arky-x a little woods video for ya. No go pro but a little elec tape and iPhone to the light guard is what I got. I bumped the power up to 85% I still haven’t held it wide open yet. There’s a couple nice straightaways way further out on the trail (next time)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvtd_AJV5X0

Shep

[ironchop]

So what kind of [emoji383] investment are we talking about to replicate one of these?

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Well, not adding up any Honda parts-
Roughly
$250-ish on the motor
$150-ish motor controller
$150-ish on misc wiring stuff- like the main breaker I used was $40 but there’s much cheaper ones out there
$700-for the 60v 25ah batt-a good one, there is cheap Chinese cell batteries for much cheaper(not recommended)
I’ve probably got another $50 spent at ace hardware for stainless nutz/bolts

I’ve got a couple different lcd amp/volt displays, haven’t decided on which yet maybe $20 each
Oh/ just bought a $25 60-72v to 12v converter/regulator for lights and stuff

That about sums it up chop. I could of done it for cheaper but I aimed for better quality items.

Having most of the 200x parts already made it easier on my wallet.
No regrets at all,(it’s a fun bike so far) bought the electrical items throughout the past yr so it wasn’t bad.

Theres a few good motor upgrades too for reasonable money. (Same motor mounts):naughty:

Think that’s about it. No I don’t wanna add it up:)

Shep
Oh wait another $45 at PBI sprockets tonight 34t sprocket, letting go of some torque for a touch more speed.

[Arky-X]

PowerWheels on steroids!

[Shep1970]

Upgrade time, I almost hit the buy it now for fenders but instead opted for a 2200w motor.
It has about a 1000rpm more and 25-30% more torque and the same motor mounts:beer
This electric power is addicting.
And the motor itself basically looks the same (don’t need to tell the wife)

Shep
Yup chop another $300:naughty:
Just looking for the right speed/power combination.

[Gabriel]

Keep it up. The ShepTeslaX
Love it.

[big specht]

You need to get a video of some one else riding it. I’m interested in this project

[Shep1970]

I’ll get a vid of my son on it this wk end/ supposed to be cooler, less buggy. There is a section (hill climb)45* degree that shouldn’t be too bad (grown in) haven’t ridden much this summer so shrubs/branches are taking over. That’ll be a good test for it too.

It’s been in the back of my truck all week/ must of gotten a dozen guys asking “what the hell is that”

Shep

[Shep1970]

The mailman came today (motor) This motor pulls a few more amps soooo I’ve got a more powerful controller coming too. (Still on the boat).

The new controller is good for 80a instead of 40a and will work upto a 3000w motor so I’ve got some wiggle room.
Same design controller just more powerful.

Just gotta say I’ve bought a few things through AliExpress (China eBay) this past yr it doesn’t except paypal but all you have to do is contact the seller to send you a paypal receipt (request). I would have gladly bought American made but “we” don’t make anything anymore.......it’s kind of sad actually.

259874 259875

Shep

[El Camexican]

Keep it up. The ShepTeslaX
Love it.

Ha! Nikola Shepla rides again.

I need need to read this entire thread start to finish. Has to be one of the most innovative projects ever posted on here.

[Shep1970]

It a very odd feeling to not have to mess with carbs, fuel, or oil.
Original motor the company “says” it will push/pull up to 2200 lbs
This new one they say should push/pull over 3500 lbs
I’m WELL under that:D
I had about a half hour run last week with the orig. motor and after the battery sat for a few mins it only used about 1 volt in that ride.
Now just need time to swap motors and hopefully the new controller will be here by the wkend

Shep
Sorry to hear about your meltdown EL. I do like the see through carb bowl on that fancy carb u have.

[ps2fixer]

A 0.1hp electric motor can push 3500lbs with the right gearing just it's super slow (hp = work over time), a better spec is torque or hp rating, or even watts (you can convert watts to hp). To get the gearing right rpm + torque vs take off speed and max speed, but that can all be done with sprocket swaps. This reminds me of a 4x4 mud pickup truck with a 5hp brigs engine, it's not fast but for slow speeds it does fine.

Not sure what your working voltage is for the 80amp spec, but going off the max the controller can handle, 3000w = 4hp so the trike probably won't have a 50mph top speed or anything close like that.

Scrolling up I see you have 60v worth of batteries, so 80 * 60 = 4800w, but I see another post you say the motor is 2200w? I see you mention AliExpress, so maybe that's where you bought the electric motors, China made stuff is horrible at giving proper specs that make sense, half the time they are over stated to unrealistic numbers.

Just saw the short ride video, looks like it's geared pretty well for woods riding and such, what do you think the top speed is? I'd guess around 15mph on flat ground?

Either case, looks like a fun machine. Bet a lot of people would love something like that for hunting. Besides checking the battery pack's voltage, don't forget to check each individual battery or cell, over time with repeated recharges some batteries will charge easier than others, so when you hit the max voltage, some batteries could still be discharged some while others are overcharged. This is atleast coming from a Lithium Ion viewpoint, lead acid gets harder to charge as it's voltage increases, so it partly keeps balanced fairly well on it's own.

I suspect costs go up fast if you try to get to 10hp+ motors and the fact the batteries won't last too long under heavy use.

Just for some fun math, 60v 24ah rated batteries with a 2200w electric motor should be around 39 minutes of run time at 100% power solid on. If you double the motor size, you cut the run time in half.

[Shep1970]

It’s only a 2200w motor, yes the controller would have the amps to give it more but the motor will only take what it needs. Like I can’t push 80amps or 3000watts into it (it won’t take it) but could take more amps for say a steep hill temporarily.
My battery bms will only allow 50amps and up to 130amps only for a few seconds.
Ps2 - yes that’s true about the hp- I could get a 5kw,8kw,10kw up to 15kw but I’m just looking for a cruiser not a dragster.
And yup costs go up a 5kw motor is about $600 ish and so on I’d guess $100 buck per 1000kw so ya that’s not for me anytime soon, when u jump up to the 3000kw + motors I’ve found there not pre-geared anymore (prob don’t need it) the motors I’m messing with are 5:1 exiting the motor before it hits my gearing which is anywhere from 1.75:1 - 2,25:1.
I’m roughly 7:1 ish total depending on which sprockets I run.
I climbed a pretty steep hill maybe 100ft up about a 35’ angle - yes it chugged up it and no sign of not making it to the top
Just a little more power would have been nice. This motor “should” add a bit of push to add to the fun factor....

I didn’t proof read any of this, I gotta make dinner I’ll fix my grammar or errors later.

Ps2- ya there’s a lot of stuff I had to learn about electricity during this project- “lots of on the throne” reading/calculating.
And thanks-

Oh I brought it over to my nephews b-day party last wkend (big yard) I should of took a video. About 6kids on those power wheels cruising about/ (4-8) yr olds, I powered it down to about 10mph max, my kids had a blast cruising with the kiddies mine would clime anything where the youngsters powersheels wouldn’t even touch (all torque). Two woman approached me on where I purchased it and if they could ride it and couldn’t keep there eyes off it the whole time and were amazed how quiet it was. Told them maybe nextime when my wiring was 100% done. (My excuse) they’d flip, get hurt and sue me most likely. So nope not gonna happen.

Fully charged I’m at 65v and the controller and battery bms shuts down at 42v for battery longevity etc.

Top speed I’m not sure- feels like 18-20 possibly 25 tops I really haven’t topped it out on flat straightaways yet but for my area, tight wooded trails/hills it’s plenty for now. Keeping torque I need for hills. My trails on the regular 200x I barely got outa 3rd. Well most of the time.

Ps2-yes I started out w/a smaller wattage motor but I’m changing it out to a 2200w hopefully this weekend,
I’ve got a variety of front/ rear sprockets to choose from now too.

Shep

[ps2fixer]

I figured your goal wasn't to have a speed racer machine. Just wanted to convert some of the numbers to something I understood better. Pretty neat the motors come with a gear ratio drop, lot easier to deal with that than trying to run a tiny sprocket in the front and a monster one in the back to work out the right ratio.

Seems like you might have a business opportunity with this though, i mean two people bugged you already about buying something similar, maybe you can buy a cheap China quad and convert it to electric and sell the unneeded parts. Guessing the cost of resale would have to be somewhere in the $3000-4000 range though, probably a bit too much for the average person to be willing to spend. Realistically, I wouldn't mind an electric atv/atc but I'd want somewhere around 8-10hp+ and min run time around an hour with fairly heavy riding. Would take a lot of riding, but electric is quite a lot cheaper than gas, the only down side is the range for electric, not like you can just swap out batteries to keep going easily.

Ironically I worked on a 125CC China quad not long ago, it's top speed was around 25mph (using GPS can't remember exact number) and only had 1 forward gear, bottom end was weak for take off, it couldn't pull it's self up the ramp for the owner's trailer with no rider.

By chance to you have a way to weigh your machine to get a total weight? Even a scale under each tire and add them up would be good enough, would just be interesting to see what the weight is, no rider of course.

[Shep1970]

Yes I weighed parts as it was put together/ without looking at notes it was right about 200 lbs / no fenders or tank mounted yet-
Yes I will get total weight when done though and I bet no more than 225 lbs.
That’s the only drawback with going with a lot more power is the battery size, even with lithium the size grows tramendously due to the higher amp draw u need more ah for the ride time - so until battery technology gets to the next level that is.
My china chain is already stretching in this vid its slapping the guard, gotta put my good chain on now.

Heres 2-mins vid/ just me, it’s all I have for now, my teenagers are too busy w/girls to ride at the moment/figures.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XWupJgbPk04
It does great off trail too but there’s too many spiderwebs out there recently, (Creeps me out) May not be poisonous but there’s big nasty ones that u see while riding into at the last second.
Oh, we’ve got one of those 70cc China quads- started kids when they were 4yrs old on it, I tell ya for the short money we spent on it and parts I swapped out for better ones it lasted a few yrs. I bet it would still run today if it was worth fixing but it’s sadly not worth the time.

If I had a spare 6-700$ the battery I have is small/light enough to keep a spare in a backpack but unless I win the lottery it’s doughtfull that’ll happen.

Shep

[ps2fixer]

Lithium Ion batteryes have came a long way, a single cell with the right design can output 20-25 amps alone, granted that's at 3.6v normal voltage. To hit 60v min and 40 amp output would take a 17s2p battery pack bare min, or 34 18650 cells. Here's a link to a page that gives specs. Price seems a bit high, I think they normally run around $4 each in bulk.

https://www.centralvapors.com/samsung-18650-25r-20amp-battery/

2.5ah per battery, so 17s2p would be only a 5ah battery so run time would be quite short. To get it to 25ah, you'd need 17s10p or 170 cells so should be around $700 cost but you'd need a BMS, charge controller, etc. Battery pack would have a max continuous output of 200amp though =). These are effectively cordless drill batteries though, the other route is go for less max amp output and you get better capacity, last I checked they topped out around 3600mah rated and rated for 5amp continuous and 20amp peak. There's some people out there that have a whole house battery backup system using these.

Also, the 170 18650 cell battery would weigh about 17lbs, probably some pretty nice weight savings and space savings.

If you wanted a trike that goes fast, hands down you'd want Lithium Ion cells so you can keep the weight down while getting enough battery capacity for an acceptable range.

Here's an example of a guy using these cells (from used laptop batteries) as a battery bank for his house. Each "cell" hanging on the wall is 80s1p to get an idea of the size a 17s10p battery would look like.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Md4l9bFDOtc

I don't think it's so much the battery tech needing to catch up, I think it's here, but the costs are too high currently to be feasible for the average person, or maybe just not well known yet. Here's an interesting video of a production bike, I saw a video of the same model bike on the MX track and it had something like a 3hr battery life on the track.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3akxA3cgzLY

It's only a $15,000 dirt bike with 40hp and 120ft/lbs of torque. I also read it has 50 mile range on the street.


Alta rates ride time at about four hours in Map 1 mode and 20 minutes in Map 4.

Neat machine, but the price just isn't there for the average person yet, an ATV version would be even more if it kept similar performance/range.

Long term, electric defo is the future, just think how cheap it is to rebuild an electric motor vs a gas engine, and how often they need rebuilding. A couple bearings and it's ready to go again assuming no damage to the windings. Batteries are the big cost long term, around 10-15 year life cycle for good name brand batteries.

[Shep1970]

This is the specs for my lithium with LG cells -and the 50amp bms. Its about the size of a shoe box. Separate key/power on and the key also pushes a steel pin into a locking plate beneath it that’s mounted to the bike- I can remove the battery or install it in seconds which is nice. I opted for this style because it’s in a metal case and sort of disappears within the bike.
Yes pricey but should last a while- 259877 259878

It’s been a learning experience for sure.
Just wanted a fun cruiser without spending too much cash but to have possible upgrades for the future.
Shep

[ps2fixer]

Ahh ok, I was thinking you was running lead acid style batteries for some reason. Pretty interesting specs though, looks like the cells are rated around 7amp each and are the more capacity/cheaper cost style. LG cells are a good brand like Samsung. Didn't really know those kinds of battery packs were made, pretty neat stuff. Defo small enough to swap out, but cost for having an on hand spare battery, might just be better off just adding the mounting so you can have two together, should just have to match the pack voltage before connecting together. I agree the metal case is a good idea, have to protect the cells from the weather and possible damage from the trail.

How long does it take to charge that battery from dead to full charge? Based on the specs, 5amp max would mean quickest possible charge is around 5hr?

[Shep1970]

Charge time I don’t know yet, I’ve only charged it once and that was from 58v that it was delivered with, from what I’ve read charging time should be 5-6hrs.

Shep

[Dirtcrasher]

The mailman came today (motor) This motor pulls a few more amps soooo I’ve got a more powerful controller coming too. (Still on the boat).

The new controller is good for 80a instead of 40a and will work upto a 3000w motor so I’ve got some wiggle room.
Same design controller just more powerful.

Just gotta say I’ve bought a few things through AliExpress (China eBay) this past yr it doesn’t except paypal but all you have to do is contact the seller to send you a paypal receipt (request). I would have gladly bought American made but “we” don’t make anything anymore.......it’s kind of sad actually.

259874 259875

Shep


No worries, Trump is trying to bring ALL manufacturing back to the USA.

We never should have let it go in the 1st place! That's what started the influx of China junk...

[Shep1970]

Quick motor swap, the controller not so much luck (larger) size but I’ll make it fit. The new controller(brain) could supply up to and over 80amps opposed to my original 40amp max controller. The new 2200w motor is rated at 46amps (the old one 31amps)
The original controller would have worked for this new motor but wouldn’t supply the max power.
As long as the rain holds off (feels like it could rain any minute) but not supposed to.....
I should be testing later today:Bounce
259964 259965 259966

I know it’s not much to look at but I needed a five min break. Anyhoo thanks for looking.
Shep

Oops, and there all crooked

[oldskool83]

I'd like to see a video of it roosting sideways. I'm looking forward to electric toys. Less sound more ground! I'm over noise!

[Shep1970]

Well she’s back together, actually had finished up two days ago and and went to start it and nothiing.... after spending a couple hours tracing re-doing a few splices turns out the cheap China connection my bar keyswitch had one of the pins pulled back out of the connector just enough to not make the connection.... trash
Definetly has a lot more power a little different sound also a bit louder too.
One thing I need to change is the power cut off when front brake is used, never really realized how much I use the front brakes while riding- well it’s not good to start a slide or doing attempt donuts when the power cuts out.....
I have to put it through the paces to make sure I won’t have a meltdown with the new motor/controller combo but I’ll post a vid in a couple days.
260020 everything fits under the side panels, not much extra room though.
My kids say it sounds more like a electric race car now than a kids power wheel.

Shep

[ps2fixer]

Are you running a china switch like one of the ones below (2nd one just shows connector, same housing).

https://i.gyazo.com/204084a9a6838223c8b4e00078c0b805.pnghttps://i.gyazo.com/3c6c744613570981aab8a9dad6d284d0.png

[Shep1970]

Ps2- I’m running a China switch, the $59 dollar one from that guy in Florida (pic) (eBay) “just” for lights on/off high/low beam. Run off this regulator (pic)
That’ll be a different circuit run off same battery not hooked up yet (I need another breaker) I don’t need the regulator making heat using up batt life when not needed.

It’s that $3 dollar crap 2-wire key switch that caused my no start for now it’s hard wired together. You were absolutely right about those China wire connectors- junk. I really need to invest in those white/waterproof like cdi connections you gave me a link to earlier in thread.
260021 260022 260023 260024
Wiring is sooo not my thing....

This is the light switch wiring not hooked up yet 260025 that I need to figure out what goes where (wires)
Shep

[ps2fixer]

Ahh I see you're running the knock off 350x style switch. Never bought one of them, but I've read on here when they were more first found that fit and finish was pretty poor, already knew if it was made in china the connections wouldn't be too great.

That ignition switch appears to be the higher quality style I used to mod, my source for them disappeared off amazon though in like 2014. Sold plastic rain cover with the key cast right inside it, if it's the same switch, the lock cylinder is metal instead of plastic. Besides those two differences, it's the same as the ones I mod today, and the wiring always was junk on both lol. China made isn't about quality, it's about building to a price point, or in this case as cheap as possible where someone will buy it and it might work.

What dash is that, looks kind of like the 200x style dash but black and I think the key is on the opposite side? Wonder if the handle bar mount spacing is right for the 350x and such (100mm or 110mm something like that).

For lights, I'd think you could wire the DC to DC converter off what normally comes out as the tail light wire (brown) and run the wire back to the switch after converted to power the light switches, would take some internal wiring work to make it happen though.

Just for the fun of it, can you link the source for that ignition switch? I might grab one to check the quality. I rewire them all so if that's the only issue it might be a good option for ones to mod.

Still kind of crazy the knock off 350x switches sell for so much, the two china ones I linked are like $5 + shipping and newer Honda ones can be had for around $50 if you poke around enough and don't care about what connectors are on the wires.

For the non sealed connectors (ones with no o-ring or rubber seal), dielectric grease works well to semi waterproof the connections. Same stuff that comes with new spark plug wires. Dielectric grease is plastic/rubber safe.

Talking connectors, there's so many options you could go with, but for the location of that ignition switch and the tooling needed etc, I'd say just 2x 3.5mm bullet terminals would do just fine there. Here's my listing to show what I mean, unless you have water proof connectors for everything, I wouldn't stress about it too much, the OEM Honda ones have lasted 30+ years in the weather so I'd think good quality connectors should do similar. Doubt you leave your machine sit in the rain anyway =).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192057685664

BTW, glad I see you use the 3M style butt connectors that actually seal the connection =). Probably the best consumer option with out buying expensive tooling and such (solding works but requires skill and the right type of heat shrink).

[Shep1970]

That’s just the 87 200x dash, I’ve got a few sets made some are a off color (just me experimenting) I’ve sold a hand full of them/ just takes a lot of time listing/packing them. I’ll get back on it soon
260026
I’ll see if I still have the eBay link to that keyswitch(it’s been on my shelf for a while)

Shep

[Shep1970]

Not much to add, just been busy but think I found a working solution for my seat clips. I’ve already lost some skin trying to remove the clips so $6 bucks for some luggage tag embroidered things and I’m good to go.
Chop I see in your post you’re looking for a solution if u find a better one please share:D

260136 260137

Very Nice job on that 250r ironchop!!!!I’d hate to get it dirty... especially with Indiana mud....

Shep

[ironchop]

Not much to add, just been busy but think I found a working solution for my seat clips. I’ve already lost some skin trying to remove the clips so $6 bucks for some luggage tag embroidered things and I’m good to go.
Chop I see in your post you’re looking for a solution if u find a better one please share:D

Shep

I like your solution WAY better. I just cut some string from my construction string level kit and tied them to the grab bar



Very Nice job on that 250r ironchop!!!!I’d hate to get it dirty... especially with Indiana mud....
Shep
Hey thanks Shep, I'm flattered!

Yeah me too.

It's coming with me, but I'm not sure if it will see mud yet. I got it very dusty from riding it in the yard since we haven't had rain in a month and that was "stressful"

I'm working on an 84 Big Red to bring as a trail and creek machine

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[ps2fixer]

That clay you guys have down there is some nasty stuff, my 99 warrior's exhaust is still coated with that stuff, it just doesn't come off and that was only one vacation down there. Luckily the Honda 3 wheelers cover up the exhaust manifold pretty well from the front tire so my Honda's don't have the red clay coating from trikefest =). We don't have the same type of clay up here in michigan, most is sand/dirt/mud and once in a while a gray clay if the hole is deep enough.

Good luck keeping the machine clean, I know that's not an easy thing xD.

[Shep1970]

A little wiring/pouring this wk.
As I mentioned in a couple posts back the motor controller has a cut off switch that’ll hook up to a two wire master cylinder and I didn’t like that at all. So now it’s wired through the off/on/off headlight switch.(much better) Took a couple hours of thought but all set now, I had to separate the off/on/off portion of the switch from the light high/low off/on part (same ground wouldn’t work) Now the lights work directly from the battery passing through the regulator. The power cut off switch (off/on/off) is routed directly to the motor controller. Well it’s working correctly on my bench anyway...I didn’t take a pic of my finished switch wiring job but will when mounting it.

Next is a orange headlight shell, mixing orange colors is “no fun at all” but I think I’m pretty close. I poured at 7:30pm and at about 10pm was drilling the holes for the glass. The little circled 350x molded grommet is the color I was aiming for (yes the grommet is plastic not rubber it was just the easiest mold I had on hand to pour into). iPhone pics at night mess with colors for some reason... but yup it’s orange, well close to the bike frame orange anyway.

Thnx for looking:D
260292 260293 260294 260295 260296
Shep

[ironchop]

Great stuff in here!

Electric powered trike build where the builder even casts his own plastics. This is some next level stuff, Shep!

I tip muh hat to you, sir

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Well, spent a few hours Sunday and I have the tail light wired, headlight mounted/wired re-did a couple bad butt splices.
Just need another breaker/switch and I “should” have lights....

The real reason I’m posting is my son (AJ) made the news, and they had a nice banquet in his honor (just him) it was a great feeling state and many other school afficials and future job opportunities were there. He had some major (girl) issues last yr... luckily she moved away!!!!
Just a proud dad here hope u don’t mind. I know a few of u have seen or met him.
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.telegram.com/item/20191019/intern-taking-road-to-career-at-berlin-dpw%3ftemplate=ampart

260379 260380

Shep

[Dirtcrasher]

Douche bags do that all the time... Looks great Shep!

[ironchop]

That's awesome news about Aidan! Sounds like everyone who meets that kid is impressed. Congrats!

So this is the Shep Crew? ....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191024/92499cf7b3441be5ed76ab6e07974775.jpg

Sent from my Z958 using Tapatalk

[Shep1970]

Oh ya I forgot they took that picture. Yup that’d be us, Jake (15) and the cat (razz) missed out on that picture though.
Damn cat caught a mouse a couple days ago ate the whole thing then proceeded to puke half back out at 3am on our bed.....260424 260425

Shep
Thanks guys, so far the boys are doing great they just need to watch out for them wacky head games girls...I suppose we all went through it in high school though.


Edit: I’ve got working head and tail lights, yay
The fenders are ordered and should be here Monday.
260538

Oh and I didn’t forget that a couple of you are patiently waiting for headlight shells, I’ll pour them this week and drill ‘em next wk end.

Shep

[Shep1970]

Been re-doing my braking system, left front bar cable activated rear brakes hooked up to the rear e-brake bracket worked ok but a really wanted an option to still have an e-brake.
Luckily the casino last wk end paid out.... :D. I picked up a can am front left master cylinder w/ebrake lock and a pricey little billet alum piece that goes into the rear master that deletes the rear resi. That enables me to run the front hose into the rear master and have front left bar and rear activated rear brakes on one caliper. Both foot and front left bar lever use the same master and share the front resi. Hope that makes sense..
I picked up a 06 CBR 1000 bike rear master (which is a bolt on for the 86/87 200x) using the 200x push rod. (A lot cheaper too)
So all that work to mount a rear resi and I won’t be using it.... still waiting on brake lines. Oh and my fenders are here just to cold in garage to work in there. Friggan chilly here....
A couple pics coming.
260611 260612 260613

So hopefully it’ll work. Guess I’ll find out/a little reading says it works great. I couldn’t just use a t-fitting cuz it would pressurize one of the two reservoirs.
Bleeding the system should be fun (not)
Shep

[jb2wheels]

Excellent project!

[Shep1970]

Thanks JB- it has definetly been a learning experience for sure.

Edit: just waiting for a decent temperature day to install the brake-lines.
No snow here yet but there’s a skim of ice on the smaller ponds.
260797
///////////
Well it looks like winter has paused this project for a bit, probably 3-months-ish. Hmmm it gives me time to go fender decal/sticker shopping.
Shep

[Shep1970]

65* in mass today, I ran brake lines/ and bled them. I was thinking it was going to be a nightmare bleeding the dual rear brake set up, actually only took 15mins and they bled real easy for some reason. The brakes seem to be working as planned yay although the rear line is about an inch too long, that’ll probably drive me nutz seeing it that way but it works for now.
The bikes winter hibernation spot (shed) the doorway is about 1”- 1/2 too narrow so on went some trx200sx hubs. Now it fits by a 1/4 inch. If you’ve ever tried to fit an atc in a doorway that was too small it’s a pain in the *** lifting/tilting while the front wheel goes which ever direction (not fun) and it fits now.:D
There’s no snow here but the top 2 inches of soil are soft wet mucky- not complaining. I may put the new Maier fenders on later today I just don’t like the fact they don’t come drilled and it’s always a big job to make it all line up right but o’well.
Guess that’s it, finally over my head cold I’ve had the last two wks.
Thanks for listening to me vent...a couple pics coming but you’ve seen brake lines before so it’s nothin’ special.
261261 261262 261263


Edit: tanks done, decals next
Gps speedo-in tank filler, also used the oem tank cap rubber under it (was going to use an o-ring but figured this looks better.
261825 261826 261827

261828
Before I added rubber

I always wondered if the stock gas caps came apart.... they do but it gets destroyed doing so.

Edit once more:
I needed a on/off switch for the speedo-
I clayed up a petcock (larger center part) molded, poured, drilled....painted
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200315/bc40d55fe11c18ad5ac2fe6b5d937461.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200315/383f299ef6471f51a700c254ed7ff718.jpg

Thanks for looking
Shep

[Shep1970]

Just about finished with the worlds largest chain cover, I’m not sold on the trx200sx cover plate that I used but it’s what I had and is offset outward a 1/4 inch so it covers the sprocket shaft end. Still some finishing touches on it but close enough to post some pics-

No “good” Honda parts were used just junk parts were cut up for this[emoji39]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/81126fa8c2eac9156892aab12783dda6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/67123a5f86c79ffabfbe27fae647c37b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/5a6a34be04642f10b4809a201c3a7b22.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/d28966e05f1551f688857582cd21945c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200425/065b02411534930822ce62975b27b33b.jpg
Gotta say this was a pain in the butt.....
Shep


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MrConcdid]

Wow, Outstanding build, Thank you for sharing it.

Q. How long run time do you get on a charge?
Q. do you have a reserve programmed in to get you back to camp?

Its the future, not that I want to admit it.
MrC.

[fabiodriven]

You build some really nice stuff Shep!

[Red Rider]

Nice work Shep. I love the sprocket guard & faux engine cylinder.

[Shep1970]

Wow, Outstanding build, Thank you for sharing it.

Q. How long run time do you get on a charge?
Q. do you have a reserve programmed in to get you back to camp?

Its the future, not that I want to admit it.
MrC.
Runtime- I have no idea/ doing the math “if” full throttle at max amps I think it was 45mins if I recall correctly. But cruising and the occasional hill maybe double that? To put it this way the last time I fully charged the battery was last November. There’s just under 11 miles (lots of hills) reading on the controller app display with still a 71% charge left.
Yes there’s a setting that’ll kill it at say 50% battery then in the display app u change that setting for power for the trip home. It has a battery save function too, haven’t tried it (probably just limits the amp output for a longer runtime. I’ve got it’s power limited to 80% and it’s plenty for me.
I’m still learning about it too. The battery would easily fit in a backpack and it’s light enough so I suppose a spare battery could easily be brought along (pricey batteries though).
Its kinda cool to go outside- just turn on two switches an go for a ride (won’t wake up any neighbors either).
It’s no speed demon but it’ll power up anything I’ve tried and there’s some rather steep hills here.

One of these days I’ll bring it to “dirtcrashers” so he can try it out. Not sure if he can handle the power though:D :beer:beer

[big specht]

Wounder How hard it would be to put a tranny in there so you could get some more speed with the power ? Or do a cvt setup like Polaris

[Shep1970]

Wounder How hard it would be to put a tranny in there so you could get some more speed with the power ? Or do a cvt setup like Polaris

I know there’s an electric dirt bike out there (can’t remember the name at the moment) that has a nice elec motor/batt/controller and has a transmission- the transmission was way too costly for me, and the bikes were too new to find any used setups.
But yes a tranny would be nice......even a two speed one - maybe some day

[oscarmayer]

great work Shep!!!!!

[big specht]

Ok shep any more up dates on this ? We were just talking about this weekend

[Shep1970]

No regrets at all on this project, I bet we have put 25-30 ride hours on it (i guess thats not much) but its hard to explain like when my kids were younger and had the powerwheels bikes me as a dad wanted a full size version to cruise with them. And now i/we have one but the kids are grown up. So i guess moving forward hopefully a few yrs from now my kids "when" they are dads can say HEY i/they do have one i can ride. Hard to put this in words if you've never been a dad.

So basically all our bikes have sadly been parked for i bet over two yrs, the electric bike was put away last but you know how slowly things gather in front so stuff slowly gets put to the back of the garage.

We purchased 4 honda groms mid covid so they've been our goto bikes ever since. I've been meaning to take updated/finished pics for over a year now but life gets in the way but definitely will soon.

oldest son AJ is trying to climb the $ ladder at work (21 yrs old)
youngest Jake is in college (19 yrs old) currently working at disney for a semester

So me as a dad is kinda in limbo at the moment, hobby/ Atc stuff is on the back burner For now.....

Hope all is well, ya i probably wrote too much and may not make sense to some. All is great, just a bit different around here.

shep

[Dirtcrasher]

^ I'm right with ya buddy, probably haven't rode in 2 years. My plastics have powder coating powder overspray on them, chrome durablue's getting rust spots, tires losing air, gas is bad and so on. I Had to renovate 3 apartments that needed de-leading and tons of work, stripped and replaced a 15sq roof by myself, built a new shop, began working on my long driveway that's been mud for 10 years. It's hard to enjoy myself when I've got crap all over the yard and projects to complete surrounding me. Unfortunately age keeps going on and the eyes get worse, it's depressing at best. Love ya man, see you sometime soon...