250SX starter switch replacement or rebuild

[dragonslayr]

Hi all,,, I tried to find some info on how to clean or rebuild the OEM KEYED ignition switch on 250sx. I read what "booblinker" had posted a year and half ago about "cleaning contacts", etc. in a keyed ignition starter switch which is what I had set out to do but after removing from my 250sx I cannot see how you can take it apart without destroying it but maybe I am missing something or maybe it isn't OEM tho everything else on this machine seems to be, (very low hrs and I bought from original owner and know it's history). #1 Question: is this switch "rebuildable" easily or do the contact points just wear down and too much? #2: Is there a decent (non Chinese hopefully) aftermarket replacement that works? Thanks, D~

[Aulbaugh]

Not sure on question 1, I have taken apart 350x and 250r switches but not messed with a 250sx. Member ps2fixer is the electrical mastermind here on the boards. He will chime in at some point.
Question 2, http://wincycles.com/p1591/Honda-ATC250SX-Handle-Switch-1985-1987/product_info.html
They make an aftermarket switch that looks like the original.

[dragonslayr]

thanks Hondatcs,,, I should have said "Keyed" ignition switch. I edited my post but can't figure out how to edit "title" .. Thanks again , W~

[Aulbaugh]

Gotcha! sorry about that. memeber ps2fixer will more than likely know. I could be wrong but I thought at one point he was selling replacement keyed ignitions for the 250es. Maybe shoot him a message.

[ps2fixer]

The 250SX ignition switch maches the size of a few other machines, 250es for example is the same "core" just different wiring/connectors. I haven't personally taken apart a 250sx switch since all of the ones I've had were good, but I do buy new Honda switches and change the wiring to be plug and play for the ATC250ES. I guess this is kind of aftermarket, even though Honda makes it and I mod it. I've linked my 3ww shop listing below, I also have them listed on ebay.

http://shop.3wheelerworld.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=304_307_312&product_id=392

Should be the closest you can get to NOS you can get.


Anyway, if you still wanted to try to take yours apart, the very bottom is like a disk, and the rest of the housing is a cinder. There's 3 tabs on the disk that hook into the cinder, get the housing to clear the tab and it pops out. Inside should be 2 contacts that are spring loaded tied to the key system inside. Based on the Chinese switches I take apart, nothing should just fall out, but careful about the part that moves with the key as I'm pretty sure nothing really holds it in except a couple spring loaded ball bearings to make the "click" effect. If the contact rivets on the disk look to be savable, sand them down and try to use something with a high grit number like 400 to finish it. The upper contacts could probably be touched up the same way. Normally there's like a nub that sticks down from the top contacts, if that nub wears out, it's connections might not be reliable and probably should be replaced. The new switches I get are packed so full of electrical grease that it's oozing out so the OEM ones are probably a mess inside. I'm not 100% sure what kind of grease they use, I'm thinking it's some sort of white lithium grease.

Now the real question comes up, why do you think the ignition switch is bad? Like have you tested it with a multi meter and validated it's not getting connection? I'm not all about getting sales, if you don't need the part, no point in throwing money away unless you'd like to have the fact you know it's a new part so will be more reliable than an old part.

Test for the ignition switch is as follows:

Off = Black/White and Green connected together
On = Red and Black connected together

Easiest is to use a multi meter on the Ohms or beep setting, but you could do it with a battery, test light, and some hook up wire to run power though the switch to light up the light.

Good luck and let us know how things work out.

[dragonslayr]

The 250SX ignition switch maches the size of a few other machines, 250es for example is the same "core" just different wiring/connectors. I haven't personally taken apart a 250sx switch since all of the ones I've had were good, but I do buy new Honda switches and change the wiring to be plug and play for the ATC250ES. I guess this is kind of aftermarket, even though Honda makes it and I mod it. I've linked my 3ww shop listing below, I also have them listed on ebay.

http://shop.3wheelerworld.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=304_307_312&product_id=392

Should be the closest you can get to NOS you can get.


Anyway, if you still wanted to try to take yours apart, the very bottom is like a disk, and the rest of the housing is a cinder. There's 3 tabs on the disk that hook into the cinder, get the housing to clear the tab and it pops out. Inside should be 2 contacts that are spring loaded tied to the key system inside. Based on the Chinese switches I take apart, nothing should just fall out, but careful about the part that moves with the key as I'm pretty sure nothing really holds it in except a couple spring loaded ball bearings to make the "click" effect. If the contact rivets on the disk look to be savable, sand them down and try to use something with a high grit number like 400 to finish it. The upper contacts could probably be touched up the same way. Normally there's like a nub that sticks down from the top contacts, if that nub wears out, it's connections might not be reliable and probably should be replaced. The new switches I get are packed so full of electrical grease that it's oozing out so the OEM ones are probably a mess inside. I'm not 100% sure what kind of grease they use, I'm thinking it's some sort of white lithium grease.

Now the real question comes up, why do you think the ignition switch is bad? Like have you tested it with a multi meter and validated it's not getting connection? I'm not all about getting sales, if you don't need the part, no point in throwing money away unless you'd like to have the fact you know it's a new part so will be more reliable than an old part.

Test for the ignition switch is as follows:

Off = Black/White and Green connected together
On = Red and Black connected together

Easiest is to use a multi meter on the Ohms or beep setting, but you could do it with a battery, test light, and some hook up wire to run power though the switch to light up the light.

Good luck and let us know how things work out.
Thank you both and specially to ps2fixer and to answer your question about why I think it's the switch malfunctioning: I concluded it was the switch because I can get it to start if I keep changing the position of key very slightly while I push the start button. (It goes from having what would seem to be very low (or no)
voltage to a full 12v+ usually by just fiddling with the key position. I relate the switch function back to my old HD flatheads and other stuff where you can feel (detents) or divits or maybe the "click" effect you mention. Things are just kinda outa sink with where you'd think the "sweet spot" oughta be and it does NOT make any difference IF the green dash light is on and bright. Been this way for awhile but it takes more and more finesse to get it just right to start. I really do appreciate all the good information and in your great attitude about not just throwing money away if you don't need to. I'm all ears if you have any more input for sure! I will see if I can get clear of all my other work tomorrow to see if I can get a better look at it. Thanks again, Walt~

[ps2fixer]

Alright, that's defo the switch then. With it doing that, sounds like it might be worn out, I'd think if it was corroded up the more you used it, the cleaner the connection would get. Since it's more or less already junk, wouldn't hurt to pull it apart and see just how bad it is inside.

[dragonslayr]

Alright, that's defo the switch then. With it doing that, sounds like it might be worn out, I'd think if it was corroded up the more you used it, the cleaner the connection would get. Since it's more or less already junk, wouldn't hurt to pull it apart and see just how bad it is inside.
Thank you again fixer,,, that's kinda what I was thinkin but I sure do appreciate all your info and thoroughness. I will definitely post again when I get the time to tear into this thing and do a little experimenting, W~

[just ben]

I have had the same issue. I just spray contact cleaner in the switch and work the key back and forth.