Fuel Tank Liners

[psujeepguy]

So I just scored a really nice 1982 Honda ATC 185s. Hard tails aren't exactly my style, but this thing is in pretty darn nice shape. One of the reasons I bought it was because the tank seemed very nice except for one dent in the top. The original decals are in awesome shape, paint isn't scratched, even the warning labels are still there. Despite my best attempts at a thorough inspection, after I cleaned the tank it started leaking.

What are my options here? I'm thinking of trying a tank liner. I was thinking of using Red Kote, Kreem, or POR-15. Leaning towards Red Cote. I'd love to hear some thoughts if you have used any of these products. Should I consider any other options?

[350for350]

I'm not a tank liner expert, but I've never heard of using POR-15 for this. I may be wrong, but it may be the way to go.

[BarnBoy]

Stay the heck away from Kreem, redkote is meh, they tell me that Caswell is about the best tank liner around. Personally I would rather fix the leak mechanically unless the inside of the tank is rusty. Might be able to braze or TIG the pinhole.

[newby200x]

I've used RedKote and POR-15. I didn't care for the RedKote mainly just because of the nasty look you get on the inside of the tank afterwards, and I had some of it seep through into the paint job after the fact. The seep through was more of an issue caused by myself though. I used POR-15 on a rougher 70 tank this summer. It has held up since then and has a nice grey metallic finish once it's cured.

[knappyfeet]

Caswell is the best and more expensive than the rest but it's an epoxy liner. I've used it and was very satisfied with it. However depending on the type of leak you have Midneightrider may be accurate and that sourcing another tank maybe the best way to go. I've used Por-15, kreem, Hirsch....all ok but inferior next to Caswell.

With all of them preparation is vital for a successful coat.....keep that in mind.

Good luck and keep Caswell on the top of your list

[psujeepguy]

I think I'm gonna give the Caswell a shot. Thanks for the suggestion, knappfeet. Any other thoughts on this process? Was gonna try rinsing the tank with something like Evaporust.

Midneightrider - I hear ya on finding a new tank, but I would really like to save this original tank with the original paint and decals. If I can't save this one, I'll work on finding a new one.

[BarnBoy]

I think I'm gonna give the Caswell a shot. Thanks for the suggestion, knappfeet. Any other thoughts on this process? Was gonna try rinsing the tank with something like Evaporust.

Midneightrider - I hear ya on finding a new tank, but I would really like to save this original tank with the original paint and decals. If I can't save this one, I'll work on finding a new one.

If you're on Facebook theres a guy named Brad....shucks, can't remember his last name. Anyway I'm pretty sure his business is called ATC tanks and decals. He does killer work and only uses Caswell dragon blood. He absolutely knows his stuff and he is the guy to talk to if you have any questions regarding that liner.

[knappyfeet]

Everyone has a different method but mine is pretty simple...

1..... wash out with gas. Some really don't need this and some do.
2..... wash out with a good degreaser and rinse thoroughly. I like the Zep purple cleaner available at Home Depot.
3..... de rust. Evaporust is great for a longer soaking and the rustoleum rust remover is quicker but not ideal for a long soaking. After this I like to rinse out the acid twice with
boiling water or near boiling water and use forced air right away to minimize flash rusting.

Here is a tank I used Hirsch on but I'm almost positive it was Por15. It lasted real well and had a metal look to it.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/183044-What-are-you-doing-today-Thread?p=1459823#post1459823

This was the first time I used Caswell. Since then I've probably done 4 and helped others with at least that many. One of the things I found is that you really need to use the contents in their entirety or the mixture will be off.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php/183044-What-are-you-doing-today-Thread?p=1472378#post1472378

[atcmatt]

Had POR-15 in my 250es tank for nearly 10 years now and it is still as good as new. It’s all in the preparation.

[patriot1]

I agree with atcmatt. If it says let it cure for 48 hours then let it cure for 96 hours. I use metal rescue from Home Depot to remove rust and clean tanks. It works very well. I have used red kote with no problems yet but will use POR-15 next. Just don't let any of it puddle.

[sledcrazyinCT]

I have used Bill Hirsch for over 20 years never a failure.
https://www.tptools.com/Bill-Hirsch-Automotive-Gas-Tank-Repair-Kit,3277.html?b=s*bill+hirsch+automotive+gas+tank+ repair+kit

[ATC King]

Ideally, the tank would be repaired before using a liner. Either brazing, soldering, or by an epoxy putty.

The liner is then just there for metal protection and to ensure any thin areas in the metal don't let go post repairs.


Several good products already posted. Regardless of brand, thorough prep is paramount.

The two part epoxy tank liners chemically cure. They cure much faster than one part liners that cure from evaporation. Whatever the liner directions say for curing, I feel better by doubling. Once fuel goes in, if it isn't fully cured, it will never.

Properly done, l feel a that liners are a very long time solution. Think about aircraft fuel cells. There's a lot of liners, patches and sealers used in aircraft to keep the fuel in, and wings flex quite a bit.