Ford 300 4.9 3" Inch Exhaust

[ATC King]

I've been through many inline sixes and exhausts, and I've always been stuck with modifying fully welded ones. That changes now.

After digging around for different exhaust products, I found what I needed to build my own without being stuck with whatever the exhaust shop welded up.

There were a couple points that I welded myself, but with a 300 I-6 running unknown headers, that's to be expected.


I'm discovering new drinks right now (Jalapeno Pineapple Margarita) , and I'll leave it with this picture (yes, there's a Supertrapp on it)...

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[ATC King]

OK, one little snippet...267528


Edit: Alright, time to populate this post.

I've been an inline six fan since my first vehicle. Like people who're tired of the current LS swap trend, I was tired of everyone inquiring about what size V8 was in my truck, as if those were the only choices.

The one thing I've come to learn, is it's darn near impossible to build an inline exhaust that sounds good, especially on a stock or mildly built engine. Many of them can sound good at idle or low load, but step on it and that inline cackle comes on. Straight duals? A big neggatory on that one. It sounds bad and is obnoxiously loud to everyone. I screwed up and done that the last go, not realizing just how loud it would be, which is why I added the Supertrapp ends to the duals, which still didn't bring it down to a comfortable level when really hammering on it. I do miss the deceleration cackle though, and when shifting gears.

About the best sounding inline six exhaust is a single inlet muffler with dual outlets, using something like a modern OEM truck muffler, to tone down that WOT cackle, which many aftermarket performance mufflers won't do, especially any of the straight core ones. Why am I not doing that? Mostly because of the dual fuel tanks and the extra piping to the left side clutters up the undercarriage more, somewhat getting in the way of easy access to the fuel tank solenoid, if I ever have to roadside repair/replace it. My truck also has a larger capacity, aftermarket rear tank, which doesn't provide exhaust clearance like the right side of it does and forces a tighter bend to be used on the pipe.


It takes some actual installation to find out exactly how a new exhaust is going to sound, and if it's all welded, there's no easy way to change anything. That's why I set out to build a custom, clamped together one for my truck. I also went with 3" pipe for any future engine power upgrades, but it is overkill for the current setup, and massive overkill for a completely stock engine. The last setup was dual 2", which flows less than a single 3".

I needed to use a Y-pipe to mate the headers together and instead of starting from total scratch, I reused the shortest length possible of the original pipe from the collector reducers to the Y-pipe. Inline six headers are a bit of a cluster, and make space a little tight on that side of the engine and frame. Since I was reusing some original pipe, which is 2" aluminized steel, I had a difficult time finding a prefabbed Y-pipe with dual 2" and single 3", which wasn't stainless. I settled on a dual 2.5" to single 3", which meant that stretching the 2" as much as possible and welding it would be more secure than trying to use clamps, because I wouldn't be able to stretch the pipe enough for a tight lap joint.

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I had notched the trans crossmember for the previous exhaust, and I guess that exhaust had a little tension one way, because now it just barely kisses that one pipe, just enough to rattle when taking off or under certain loads. :(

Before going any further, I need to mention the goal wasn't to do this wasn't to save money or use the cheapest parts available. In all, I think I spent about $350 on the parts. Which isn't bad by any means, though the two largest contributors to that were the Magnaflow cat and Supertrapp end disks.

I did buy a pipe stretcher on Ebay. I'm hoping that'll last through a few jobs or possibly more, so it's cost is rather insignificant when stretched out and it may actually pay for itself in that regard.
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Some quick notes on the budget priced pipe stretcher. It's built to use an impact, and it needs a strong one to function properly. The first thing I'd suggest is the screw portion copletely apart before the first use, cleaning everything with brake parts cleaner, then putting a coat of good quality grease on it. Then after the first pipe stretch, do that again, and it'll be good for a while. The reason is the machining isn't first rate and there will be a little material removed during break-in. These low cost tools also tend to have machining remnants stuck to them (tiny metal bits), that need removed before the first use. Another thing is it doesn't really stretch very far before having to put the next larger size collar on it, so keep an eye to see if the threads are bottomed out if it seems to stop stretching the pipe at a point. The next size collar will have to be used and it may still be a little fight to get it in. The last thing is to do the stretch in stages, rotating the tool to different angles, which will keep the pipe round and not be such a big fight to stretch the pipe.

Although this stretcher does what it's supposed to, it is slow. This isn't some hydraulically powered, professional pipe stretcher, it's a budget priced tool for the home garage. Again, if done right, it's a slow process, but it did produce good results with patient use. I also done all the initial fitting and stretching off of the truck. On the vehicle, the process is going to rattle the heck out of everything.



Back to the build.

Directly after the Y-pipe, I mounted the catalytic converter.

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This is the one joint I'm not satisfied with. The O.D. of the cat and the Y were the same, which meant I needed to stretch one, and also meant I didn't find a lap joint clamp the ideal size, so I used a butt joint clamp and wrapped some aluminum can material around the cat inlet, since it was the smaller one now. I done that, thinking it would allow the clamp to evenly tighten on the two different sized pipes. Nope. I has been leak free though, for about 1,500 miles, so I'm just monitoring it at this point. All joints are sealed with Permatex Ultra Copper.

I only had to use the factory exhaust hangers, which kept things clean and simple. The first hanger was right after the cat and right next to a lap joint clamp (which work great). I only had to bend the stock hanger to the length I needed and attached the exhaust by using a standard style clamp, which I double nutted to keep it from loosening and so I didn't have to tighten it to the point it deformed the pipe.

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For the middle section of pipe, I bought a straight piece longer than I needed, so I could cut it to length once I was able to test fit parts. Nothing fancy there. I had to go the post office to pick it up though, because it was 7' long and wouldn't fit into their Jeep. :) Why 7' feet? Because that was the best bargain. A 4' section wasn't saving me much money and I'll have the spare of it for other projects.


The tailpipe is nice, with smooth bends. None of that pipe denting stuff like is normal with the benders many exhaust shops use. It was also very affordable, for about $50 with free shipping. I was very pleased with that.

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Yes, it's larger than the driveshaft. :)

Another lap joint and clamp to the tailpipe. I used a high-temp paint pen and put an index mark across it, to see if anything twist with use.

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I have tightened all the clamps and bolts twice. Once after about 30 miles, then again after 1,000. Everything is staying good. The nuts on the clamps are lock type nuts, but still, with heat cycling, things will settle in for a bit.



I initially hoped the cat would quieten it down enough to run straight after that, and for the most part, it took a lot of the harshness out of it and the large diameter pipe on it's own, takes a lot of the ear piercing cackle away from the inline six. The cackle is still there, but it's not glass breaking loud.

At that stage, idle was really deep sounding, and just off it was pretty good too. The problem was at road speed and light load; drone.


The droning was not ignorable, and no way I was going to attempt to live with it. That's when I ordered the Supertrapp end disks. I wanted to put one on it anyway, and trying to fab something to use both the previous 3" ends wasn't possible without it looking bulky and overcomplicated, which was bad, because I knew how much a 5" kit cost. Oh well, bite the bullet, and just order one.

I didn't know if it would stop the drone, but was hoping. I really didn't want to put a regular muffler on it yet, so I'd have to wait to see if the Supertrapp worked it's magic.

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It worked! The drone was gone. Phew.

I guess I did weld one more thing, the Supertrapp adapter to the tailpipe.

If it looks too low in the previous picture, that's mostly the picture angle.
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It could be raised up an inch or so, but the reason for it's current height is suspension droop. I put it on with the rear suspension completely unloaded (hanging down), to make sure the leaf springs wouldn't hit the tailpipe in that situation. I left some wiggle room, but not much. The honking large Supertrapp makes it look lower, but it's high enough to clear parking curbs. I also wanted it sloping downward enough that water wouldn't settle in the last bend.



I think that's about it. I happy with how it turned out. It cleaned up the underside compared to the previous dual exhaust, will allow for future power upgrades, and there's some tuneability with the Supertrapp. I will be adding an air fuel meter sometime this year. When I first put the headers on, I welded O2 bungs into the collectors, so that part is done and I did take out the plugs this last go, to clean the thread and lube them real good with some high-temp anti-seize so I shouldn't be smashing my knuckles on the frame trying to get them out later.




Did you read all that and wonder...all that and no sound video.

Lets be real, unless someone has high quality sound recording equipment, they're not going to capture the true sound. There's a lot of exhaust videos on Youtube, and the majority of them sound as craptastic as the next. Not the exhaust itself, but the quality of the sound recording. I don't have any quality audio recording equipment, so there's no reason to do it. Another thing is, using Flowmaster mufflers as an example, they sound good to a lot of people, but consistently perform poorly in back-to-back dyno comparisons. So, getting an exhaust that sounds good and performs at the top can be pretty dang difficult. I've had a lot of different mufflers and exhausts put on vehicles over the years, and cut just as many off to replace them. At least now I can just unbolt things for a change.

[kiser]

Inline 6's are hard to beat, they run for ever! It's amazing the torque they make compared to a stock small block. It is hard to get them to sound good but it sounds like you have went the right route through experience. What year is your truck?

[big specht]

You know what you need to help cancel the sound…….it’s a TURBO :twisted:

[ironchop]

Any Dentside Ford truck is cool

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[ATC King]

kiser, it's a '79. It's got the square headlights (jab at the 78/79 headlight debates).


big spect, a turbo would be nice, but if I was going to get the most from it, fuel injection and more precise timing control would be required. Remember the Pontiac 301 turbo or the early Buick 3.8 turbo that still had a carb? Not many do, because they were very conservative on the boost as the systems needed a wide margin or error to be durable enough for Joe public. Oldsmobile has an all aluminum, turbocharged V8 in the 1960's too. That was a not ready for prime time engine (methanol tank empty, pfft, floor it anyway).

Blow through, carb box, draw through, anything with a carb and basic distributor ignition isn't going to be able to safely/efficiently use as much boost as something with FI and modern ignition. While it was fun watching the turbo 292 build on YouTube, done in controlled conditions on a dyno, there isn't enough margin of safety to crank it up for everyday street use. I've been running my electric fans from toggle switches for years (need to fix that), I don't need another manual switching anything to forget to turn on/off so something doesn't go sideways, because I've forgotten those a time or two already.

Besides, for engine longevity with constant spirited driving, there needs to be some very professionally done machining, balancing, and building, which is $$$. Those professional car shows on YouTube don't always divulge total cost, but I could see an inline with that full build treatment getting close to $10,000 for everything start to finish, including initial engine purchase price, especially with paying someone else to do the build and tuning. I did watch an episode or two where boneyard engines got nitrous poured into them until they puked. If a replacement engine is cheap enough...just keep replacing them.

Edit: Just thought of another funny analogy. Some may say the Cummins is an inline six and boosted, and handles it just fine and lasts. Sure, but it's a purpose built diesel engine, much like what's in big trucks. Remember what asking a gas engine to do diesel work gets you...an Olds 350 diesel. Anyway trailpro

Maybe...someday. I'm pretty happy with them NA, using bolt on parts, a small bump in compression, and a mild cam. Fuel economy can actually improve over stock, longevity isn't taking a huge hit, and power is still way more than stock. If I miss a gear during WOT, it isn't likely to lubricate the pavement either. The 3" exhaust is in anticipation of modest internal upgrades, but one can hope.

ironchop, YES sir!

[kiser]

Roger that on the '79, it's a good looking truck! I bought my first dent side last fall, it's a '75 highboy bucket truck. I've always had a soft spot for the '67-'72 and '73-'79 Fords.

[big specht]

267731 this is my 69 that has a 300-6 in it with 4.10 gears and a 4 speed it’s like driving a diesel 25mph shift to high and never shift again. Those inline motors do make some good torque

[ATC King]

267731 this is my 69 that has a 300-6 in it with 4.10 gears and a 4 speed it’s like driving a diesel 25mph shift to high and never shift again. Those inline motors do make some good torque

Do you get this very often?:

https://media.tenor.com/images/1d0095393e97b0cb0e0528e8f0cf8fbc/tenor.gif

What rear axle and wheels are those? Full floaters, so that's some type of HD axle and it doesn't look like a 9" :naughty:


I've never checked my gear ratio, but about 35mph, I'm into fourth. From there to 100+ (GPS, speedo stops well below that), no more shifts. :lol: Around 65-70, it really has some giddy up until about 90.

[ironchop]

Those wheels are BADASS

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[ironchop]

I have nearly all the pieces accumulated and ready to rebuild the entire drivetrain, fuel system, suspension, and brakes in my 79. Trying to decide on chassis exit or fenderwell exit headers.


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[big specht]

Do you get this very often?:

https://media.tenor.com/images/1d0095393e97b0cb0e0528e8f0cf8fbc/tenor.gif

What rear axle and wheels are those? Full floaters, so that's some type of HD axle and it doesn't look like a 9" :naughty:


I've never checked my gear ratio, but about 35mph, I'm into fourth. From there to 100+ (GPS, speedo stops well below that), no more shifts. :lol: Around 65-70, it really has some giddy up until about 90.

Lol yea it’s a f250 camper special. It’s a Dana 60 and those are factory wides 16.5-9.75 wide wheels

[Arky-X]

I'm sentimental to those late-70s Fords. Always wanted a 79 with the square headlights.
Got my dad's 76 Ford F-150 when I turned 16 when he bought a new(er) truck. Thought I was something with that 460 under the hood but I had no clue except "bigger carb and louder exhaust" when I was a teenager. Had I known anything at the time, I would have first looked at some gears because I think it was 3.00. It moved ok off the line but you could run 80mph no prob on the highway.......if you could hold it from floating all over the road. Could have fixed that problem too (steering wheel play/slack) had I had any mechanical inclination then.

[ironchop]

BTW Clint, that's some good looking exhaust work. I'm a big fan of those band clamps too.

I was surprised how much aftermarket performance items were available for that powerplant.



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[ironchop]

Roger that on the '79, it's a good looking truck! I bought my first dent side last fall, it's a '75 highboy bucket truck. I've always had a soft spot for the '67-'72 and '73-'79 Fords.Throw up some pics please

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[ATC King]

I have nearly all the pieces accumulated and ready to rebuild the entire drivetrain, fuel system, suspension, and brakes in my 79. Trying to decide on chassis exit or fenderwell exit headers.


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Fenderwell and using side pipes?

I found a spring shop in Detrioit that seems to be a good choice for when I replace the rear springs on mine. They have original OE blueprints and build to exact or custom specs.

https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

I'm not buying generic springs again. I've already been there on another vehicle.




As far as 300 performance stuff, check out this crank scraper. https://crank-scrapers.com/Ford_straight_six.html

No idea if it'll do anything below the lowly six's max RPM, if anything at all, but it's gotta add at least much power as a NOS sticker on the back glass.


Something interesting with at least he Chevy 292 and Ford 300 was they also came in industrial versions with forged cranks and some other goodies. I've been told the 2ton truck versions had 7qt oil pans. Some 292 blocks made in Mexico supposedly have a stronger/longer wearing iron alloy (I guess like the big Caddy V8s). My 292 came from a Massey Ferguson soy bean combine; pulled it myself.

The Ford and Jeep US versions got fuel injection before the end. The South American Chevy 250 got fuel injection. Then there's the Australian variants of the US sixes, with more power. I think Dodge done a performance version of their slant six, which may have just been some tuning adjustments or slightly higher compression. Of course, the very first Corvettes had an inline six (shhhh, don't tell anyone LOL).

[kiser]

Ironchop, I don't know how to post pics and I'm on an IPad. Specht mite have a pic of my bucket truck?? If not, I know Fabio does. I have a flip phone and don't take many pictures lol.

[fabiodriven]

ATC king, the droning from your exhaust is called "resonance". A way to get rid of that is using a resonator, also known as a glass pack.


Throw up some pics please

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Kiser's bucket truck-

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210609/5ac8ad27ea8f9770585d23858f092ce0.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210609/72c0112578d0a4b4b738a65f4189ce79.jpg

[ironchop]

That's a sweet truck Kiser!

I actually like that style grille better than one on my 79. I have a nice 77 grille assembly I'd like to put on mine

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[fabiodriven]

That's a sweet truck Kiser!

I actually like that style grille better than one on my 79. I have a nice 77 grille assembly I'd like to put on mine

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I like the 73-77 grills better myself.

[ironchop]

I got those same wheels except mine are matte black

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[kiser]

Thanks! It needs a lil love but I'll get it where it needs to be eventually. I put the tire/wheel combo on it but it needs lifted, the front rub when at full lock. I talked to a local spring shop about a 4" lift and plan to have them build me a new set of front and rears to support the weight and sway of a bucket truck. I need to address some wiring issues, upgrade the steering to 78-79 style and a blown exhaust manifold gasket but after that it should be ready to work! The ol' 360 purrs like a kitten!

[kiser]

Oh, and matching mirrors, that stress's me out lol!

[ironchop]

Thanks! It needs a lil love but I'll get it where it needs to be eventually. I put the tire/wheel combo on it but it needs lifted, the front rub when at full lock. I talked to a local spring shop about a 4" lift and plan to have them build me a new set of front and rears to support the weight and sway of a bucket truck. I need to address some wiring issues, upgrade the steering to 78-79 style and a blown exhaust manifold gasket but after that it should be ready to work! The ol' 360 purrs like a kitten!I ended up just buying a whole new complete replacement wiring harness. I can't recall who makes it, but it was updated fuse panel and everything else except the AC pigtails. $800-ish and I got it from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. I kind of went on a shopping spree up in there and L&L Products website both.

I'm going to use the neighbors tractor to pull the motor and trans out together this weekend. The doghouse is off. Still waiting on the short block inbound. It's got a passenger car 460 in it now, so if that truck block doesn't get here soon, I'll pull the car motor down to the shop and get it reworked and call them to get my money back on the other. I've got to get a fifth wheel from my buddy's house over to mine and not having my truck running is screwing up those plans.

I believe Bronco Graveyard had +4" rear leafs available last I looked. I got +6" leaves and +7" coils for the front(edit: nvmnd, I just noticed you got the bucket so you need custom springs). Undecided on shocks. Tires are Nankang Mudstars. I think they come out to 32-33" when you convert (305/70R 16) from metric. I had 37s on it before but those things are crazy expensive to replace and last about 8 months in a daily driver

I have everything to rebuild the T18 4spd so I think I might start on that while I'm waiting on the motor

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[kiser]

Let's see some pics of that ol girl! This thread took a hard right from a well tuned 300 to a full blown Ford truck chat group lol!

[ATC King]

ATC king, the droning from your exhaust is called "resonance". A way to get rid of that is using a resonator, also known as a glass pack.

There's also J-pipes. Check those out if you haven't heard of them and the principle they work on. Since mine was a straight exhaust (after the cat), the Supertrapp discs solved my problem. They're also a USFS Approved spark arrestor, for whatever that's worth in an automotive application.



Kiser's bucket truck-




https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210609/72c0112578d0a4b4b738a65f4189ce79.jpg

That's a proper hunting truck. The color is even right. Need a blind on the bucket though.

[ATC King]

I put the tire/wheel combo on it but it needs lifted, the front rub when at full lock.

You could easily cut the fenders, but there is a ton of aftermarket off-road front fenders in fiberglass that have more room for larger tires. There's also entire front clips that tilt. A whole lot of Baja type fiberglass pieces are available for these trucks, and are relatively affordable. If it doesn't already have a HD anit-sway bar for the rear, that would help a lot, without the need for higher arched springs. There's also rubber type load handlers and air bags. Not that it wouldn't look cool higher up, but for the same or less, the ride height could remain relatively unchanged, but solve the issues you have.


Maybe with the bucket, shorter shocks, or travel limiting devices would work well too, unless you plan to twist it in rock crawling fashion.

[kiser]

It sits really low in the rear compared to the front and the ends of the front springs look like knives. The OEM springs weren't made to handle the constant weight of the bucket, they are just plain worn out but I want it jacked up anyway. A real heavy duty rear sway bar would be very beneficial with a stiff deck of springs!

[ATC King]

If you want it raised anyway, then custom springs are the best option.

As far as the front springs looking "like knives," many of them have a taper and diamond cut from the factory, which makes them less likely to break and gives a better ride.

Unless you plan on regularly pulling a heavy trailer with it, the bucket weight is the main concern, which makes it simpler when considering springs.

It's an awesome truck in any regard. There's not really such a thing as a smooth riding work truck, which is why 18 wheelers have air-ride seats, even when the truck and trailer already have air-ride suspension. A passenger in the standard (non air-ride) seat can attest to that.

[ironchop]

If you want it raised anyway, then custom springs are the best option.

As far as the front springs looking "like knives," many of them have a taper and diamond cut from the factory, which makes them less likely to break and gives a better ride.

Unless you plan on regularly pulling a heavy trailer with it, the bucket weight is the main concern, which makes it simpler when considering springs.

It's an awesome truck in any regard. There's not really such a thing as a smooth riding work truck, which is why 18 wheelers have air-ride seats, even when the truck and trailer already have air-ride suspension. A passenger in the standard (non air-ride) seat can attest to that.There are airbag kits for these Dentside trucks on broncograveyard.com to help with towing/heavy loads.

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[bkm]

We used to sand drag with a guy that had a rail dragster with a 300 I6 and a turbo. Very fast for what it was. I'm sure you've seen the 300 that had 3, 351c heads cut up and welded up into one head and made to work on the 300 block. A canted valve I6 is about as cool as it gets.

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[kiser]

Yea I'm not concerned if it rides rough. Actually, if it rides like stock after lifted with heavier springs+bucket weight, I will be happy. If it rides worse, I will have no complaints! Air bags are nice for pulling a trailer but for this, I want it old school, heavy springs and dual shocks. I will never have a trailer hooked to it, the only concern is clearing big tires, sitting level and stiffened up ride.

[ATC King]

There are airbag kits for these Dentside trucks on broncograveyard.com to help with towing/heavy loads.

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Going into one of my wordy replies...

I've spent actual hours researching the available rear suspension additional options. The quality air bag systems, the Roadmaster things, the rubber type devices, like Timbrens, and all manner of things I came across during my researching. I've got experience with the air bags from driving big trucks, so there's nothing too different there as for basic function. I've installed some of those Roadmaster things, but it's been years ago and I don't recall hearing any feedback from the owners. The Timbrens and like seem simple enough, but I bet extreme ambient temperatures really causes wide swings in their performance, like it will with any rubber type product, even the polyurethane stuff (more or less plastic).

They all have advantages and disadvantages. By the end of all I read and watched online, replacing the stock springs with high quality new ones was what I settled on. What I think to be the originals, have unknown, but extremely likely high mileage. Add to that the outright age, and they've certainly lost some umph and ride height since 1979. The other thing is allong the line of what kiser is going through with the bucket truck, but to much less degree on mine. That is I've added an extra amount of permanent weight. The camper shell is quite heavy, more so than more modern fiberglass ones. Replacing the rear fuel tank with a 38 gallon one done some of the same, yet it could be ran lower to lessen weight, that's not why I installed it and the level is to the max as much as possible, except during long driving days when I run it empty then switch to the front one before planning a fuel stop.

There's also the tool box, that carriers spare parts, fluids, and tools, full-time. I have done parking lot repairs and won't be going anywhere without a minimum of shop quality tools for such. Even a clutch replacement isn't out of real practicality on this truck in a parking lot, and a Ford 9" center chunk can certainly be parking lot replaced. I'm not strong enough to remove a complete 300 I6 by hand, but I bet with the front hitch, I could come up with a folding engine crane device. :)

I also almost always carry a motorcycle on the rear receiver when traveling very far or for an extended time. If for nothing else, a spare means of transport if the pickup stops. I preferer self reliance over AAA, especially in the middle of summer, in a desert, in the middle of nowhere. Not a fan of roadside BBQ, when I'm the meat.

As it is, the truck sits fine. Maybe a barley noticeable amount low with the bike on back, but not much. It does have factory overloads, or at least period ones. Best as I can tell, they're stock or installed new by the dealer. It's another set of springs with a spacer block, on top of the main ones. They don't normally touch the pads on the frame unless loaded enough, but with the camper, fuel tank, and toolbox, they're just barely touching. I replaced the rubber end-pads on the overload springs a couple years back, as the old ones started falling off.

As it stands, I'm going with replacement springs first. Maybe replacement overloads if I can source correct new ones. If that doesn't fulfill my needs when pulling my small double axle camper, then I'll look at additional suspension support. Air bags would be on top of the list, but to do it right, with a powerful compressor and decent sized air tank, and cab controls, the price really gets up there. Then there's installing a dryer, if it's to be done 100% correct and so I won't have problems in freezing temps. It's a catch 22 with air bags in long run. Do it cheap or do it right, problems or cost.

I've also got a whole lot of things I want to upgrade, like to a locking rear axle, some modern gauges, and an A/F gauge. At this rate, it'll never get body work and paint.

[ironchop]

I here ya

I already bought new springs front and rear. I like to KISS and I don't want too much extra crap on my truck. I just figured someone else might be interested in bags for their own application



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[kiser]

Bags are great for towing, Fabio and Specht have both ran or are currently running them with great results! For my particular situation, heavy springs and shocks are the answer. Not sure if you guys have ever drove a bucket truck but they are heavy and have a TON of sway/lean in cross winds and turns. They definitely take some seat time to get comfy driving compared to a tandem dump truck!

[ironchop]

Let's see some pics of that ol girl! This thread took a hard right from a well tuned 300 to a full blown Ford truck chat group lol!Not much to look at. Been sitting in my driveway for awhile. Doghouse is off and hopefully this weekend I can get the tractor and boom and pull it. Hard to roll an engine hoist on a gravel driveway.

The rest of my wheels came today. Ended up going with American Racing AR172 in matte black

Clint I'm sorry for cluttering up your thread with my junk. I can probably go start a Dentside thread and we can all post in there so you can keep this one specific to 300's. Just say the word, sir

Third pic is that new wiring harness I got in case anyone else is interested, look that up

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/ead075a0574d128cede6ff2facd0b770.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/022e3e64b99cb440853206a6928ec20b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/cd337b7fb049e557dba304587d481121.jpg

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[ATC King]

Clint I'm sorry for cluttering up your thread with my junk.


I'm not seeing any clutter. Carry on.


You guys with the 4x4 ones are sitting on some gold. I think the most popular monster truck ever, started out as one.

[kiser]

Looks like a nice project Ironchop! Gotta love Big Foot, if someone don't, they just aren't a good person!

[jasong_10]

Not much to look at. Been sitting in my driveway for awhile. Doghouse is off and hopefully this weekend I can get the tractor and boom and pull it. Hard to roll an engine hoist on a gravel driveway.

The rest of my wheels came today. Ended up going with American Racing AR172 in matte black

Clint I'm sorry for cluttering up your thread with my junk. I can probably go start a Dentside thread and we can all post in there so you can keep this one specific to 300's. Just say the word, sir

Third pic is that new wiring harness I got in case anyone else is interested, look that up

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/ead075a0574d128cede6ff2facd0b770.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/022e3e64b99cb440853206a6928ec20b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210615/cd337b7fb049e557dba304587d481121.jpg

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Is that a shortbox?

[ironchop]

Yes it's a shortbox

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[ATC King]

I bought one of these 1/64 diecast models to go with mine. They're small enough to put on the dash or hang from the mirror. These particulars ones have the Ford topper like mine, but it does come off if needed.

http://https://www.ebay.com/itm/143910365438?epid=15043603482&hash=item2181b9e8fe:g:f68AAOSwColf9t3N (https://www.ebay.com/itm/143910365438?epid=15043603482&hash=item2181b9e8fe:g:f68AAOSwColf9t3N)

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/f68AAOSwColf9t3N/s-l1600.jpg

[kiser]

That's a very detailed toy, I like it!