Just got it '85 200s....need some answers

[junjun01]

can someone here tell me what is this thing missing of this bike ?..,it have some kind of "lever" on the right top side of motor,it looks like there was some kind of cable there. the bike needs some little things, i dint get it to start yet & want to make sure i know what that is before i brake something :o
I know it's not a choke,because that would be on the carb...duh

[short4stuff]

decompression release, i am thinking so.

[chuck]

it is the compression release

[junjun01]

Ho wdo i use it?

[ejc042]

Originally the pull start had a cable that lifted this lever to partially open a valve to minimize compression for one revolution making the bike easier to start. You can manually lift this lever before pull starting and get the same result.

[threewheelin-feelin]

my 84 200s has one the cable came out of the pull start and it want stay in now the pittle pips came off it if u push it back all the way it will kill the motor if u leave it alone were the spring will keep it in place dont worry boutit mine ant been hook up in like 7 years wevew had it about 12 years




84 atc200s-bassani pipe
80 atc70-stock
03 crf150f-stock
03 xr70-stock
97 plymouth neon -back yard toy hahahha

[junjun01]

Well it's really hard to pull, when you pull the cord it wants to brake your shoulders,i try that lever thing but i have not notice any diference,still hard to pull.
it have spark,i cleaned the carb ,pull it for about 10 minutes & it wont start.
How can i test if its the coil or that cdi thing?...what could it be.....would i ride that thing this weekend ?....yeah right !

[TheOlderFox]

The lever would push on the valve to let it open a little. The arm that does this can wear so even if you flip the lever, nothing happens because it doesn't hit the valve and you hurt your hand. I have done this plenty of times on a ATC200. It is possible to have a spark, but have it too weak to run properly. You can test the resistance of the coils to check if they are good but off hand I can't tell you how because those values are in the book my borther probably has. He will probably reply to this in due time, right TheFox? It is just the Cyclmer shop manual. Have you tried any starter fluid? If you don't have that, put a few drops of gas in the cylinder and try that. You can also check your plug/valve gaps. Also check your timing. If any of these are off and your spark is minimal, it won't fire. You can also try push starting it, this can get your engine to turn over more times and faster than pulling it over. Just put it in 5th and find a hill/buddies/or a vehicle that can tow it. Good luck.

[thefox]

Check for spark, it should be blue at the end of the tip of the pug (gap of .024-.028 in or .6-.7 mm.). The primary coil (one behind the pull start) is the one that tends to go bad on these, to test it find the resistance between the black/red wire and ground, it should be 245 ohms. Does it act like it wants to start or is it just plain hard to pull? Double check the timing and valves, the valve clearance should be .002 in. (.05 mm.).

[junjun01]

last onwer says that he was riding it,the it shut off,never to start again...thas all the info i got; its kind of hard to push it here ,i live in the city...to many cops driving around

[junjun01]

.....Got it running !!!!!........new plug, with the proper gap (thanks fox )...now why is the smoke black ?

[hondatrikesrule22]

It is running rich.I have a 110 that would die,and not start back up,because it was fouling plugs,due to running rich.I had to buy a new spark plug everyday! lol And as long as your bike is running rich, the same thing will happen to you.Ask someone on here on how to fix it. ;)

[Xowner]

or the oil rings are wore out

[TheOlderFox]

If you are running rich, there are a few ways to take care of it. Check the needle clip. If you move the clip toward the short end, that will lean the mixture. Usually the middle position is facotry. Check the pilot screw on the carb, that allows air to mix. Back it out slowly until the machine shuts off, then I think it is 1 1/4 turns in. Lastly you can check the float. If you can adjust it, bend the tab just slightly to reduce the fuel level in the bowl. If you can attach a clear tube to the drain screw holding the open end up along side the carb and open the crain screw, run the engine and see where the fuel level stabilizes at, this will tell you the fuel level in the bowl so you can mark it so to can quantify any changes. Of course the other reason that the smoke could be black is if you are burning oil. If you have a compression gauge this is a good way to check. I think stock is around 120-140psi. Smell the plug and check for a gas smell for an indication of running rich.

[thefox]

needle clip, middle groove

pilot screw, screw in till it seats lightly then back it out 2 1/4 turns

float level is .49 in. (12.5 mm.), you probably have a plastic float that can not be adjusted but if you have a metal one then it can be.

compression, 156 + or - 14 psi

[rob0781]

Wow this is a pretty interesting thread,you guys really know your trikes well..

[junjun01]

Yes we do...we really got this dow...Oh wait a minute...they do,not me....i just ask them for help :D

[1985 200s]

If it's the original carb. my honda factory service manual says: ID Mark PD 85 D
Float Level 14.0 mm or .55 in.
Pilot Srew 2 1/4 turns open
Main Jet # 100
Jet Needle Clip 3rd Groove or Middle same thing
This is assuming it is the original carb and original main jet. If it's the original carb the float will not be adjustable. If it out of specs you'll need a new one.

Black smoke burning to rich thats why it ran with new plug. It won't be long and you will need another plug, if it's left as is. Also left rich will cause major carbon buildup throughout the system.

If it was burning oil you would have blue smoke.

I would take carb apart and give it a good cleaning and blow it out with compressed air. Check your float level and reassemble. make sure your needle clip is on middle groove. Start with your pilot screw at 2 1/4 turns out and run it with a new plug. See if it still smokes. If it does turn the screw in an 1/8 of a turn at a time till it stops. Even if it doesn't smoke, after running it like 30 minutes when it's not smoking and with a clean plug, pull the plug and look at it to see what color it is. It should be like a light tannish color. If it's darker brown or black it's still running rich even if you don't see any visible smoke. If it is still white to hardly noticeable color change, your running to lean. To richin it turn out to lean it turn in. Make sure you have a good clean air filter and that the choke is all the way open when you start this procedure. If it is burning oil, once you get it from burning rich, the smoke should be blue and you will need to fix that problem before your plug will ever be the right color. If burning rich and burning oil the smoke will be black because the black smoke will mask the blue smoke.
Low compression may or may not be rings. It could be valves. Do a compression test and it should be 156 lbs, as stated before, plus or minus 14lbs. If the compression is low squirt a couple pumps of oil from an oil can in cylinder and retest. If the compression raises significantly then it's rings, if not it's valves. You may have to lift front of trike so cylinder is vertical to make sure oil get's all the way around piston. If blue smoke is only seen on initial start up and goes away it could be valve seals or valve guides. This happens because after trike sits after being ran oil drains down past guides into cylinder and then burns off. Generally a constant smoke is not valve seals or guides, unless they are extremely bad, it's usually rings which will be evident in low compression. If you are ripping your arm out of socket trying to start it then I doubt you have compression problems. If you have higher than normal compression it could be due to carbon buildup from running to rich to long or oil burning to long. High compression might mean some one has put in a higher compression piston. Just giving you some scenarios in case you need them. I'm sure there could be other things not covered here, like decompression lever out of adjustment and not allowing valve to close all the way, Ring end gaps all lined up with each other (rare), scored piston or cylinder, etc. but this should cover most problems. If not ask again.