It's Alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[kilabeez0]

After almost 2 years i've finally got my 200x to run!!! What a toilet this thing started out as. I still have some tinkering to do and buy a few odds and ends. But after finally adjusting the timing and valves the thing kicked right over. One thing though, the thing idles CRAZY high. I tried to turn in the screw on the side of the carb, i turned it all the way in and it continued to rev high and then died abruptly. Can anyone tell me why it's idling so high. And after a few seconds of running the head pipe turns BRIGHT red, i mean i could toast marshmelllows off of this thing. What's the deal with that? Lean or rich? Pics next weekend hopefully!!!

[Dammit!]

Probably real lean. Check for air leaks.

[mwill15]

You turned the air/fuel mix screw or the idle speed screw? To slow down the idle speed turn out on the idle speed screw, or rich on the air/fuel mix screw. If the head pipes were glowing, you could be way lean, timing off, valve lash incorrect, or too high compression with too low octane. There's more, but start there.

[Wickedfinger]

Sounds to me like you have the classic symptoms of an airleak somewhere in the intake tract.

[HaggLE]

Check that the slide in the carb hits the bottom. The cable might be getting stuck. Flick the thumb throttle and listen for a click as it returns shut (with the engine off).

Check for a vacuum leak on the inlet manifold. make sure the gaskets arent damaged and there isnt any old gasket still stuck to the gasket surface.

By the sounds of it you were turning the right screw, its on the side of the carb near the slide.

Is the metal the header is made from very thin? If it is id say that its just because of that. Otherwise if got no idea.

[kilabeez0]

where could there possibly be an airleak? i have a uni filter but thats it. i mean there's only 2 clamps on either end of the boot but i guess i'll check those. valve clearance is good i THINK. when i adjusted them at TDC, i dont remember if it was .03 or .003 either way it was one of the smallest feelers on the guage. does that sound right?

[kilabeez0]

i'm not sure which screw it was, all i know is it wasn't the pilot screw on the bottom, i checked that and set it to spec, there is only 1 other adjust screw and that's on the side, and that's what i was playing with to no avail.

as for the header it's a stock pipe and it's in mint shape so i'm sure it's not too thin.

[mwill15]

Check the boot after the carb for cracks. There may be an adjustment screw at the top of the carb where the throttle cable connects the the carb housing. The screw could be stopping the slide from reaching the bottom. There could also be a tiny peice of trash in the carb clogging a jet and causing it to run extremely lean.

[Dammit!]

Spray starting fluid anywhere that it could be sucking air while it's running. It'll rev up if there's a leak anywhere.

[kilabeez0]

Spray starting fluid anywhere that it could be sucking air while it's running. It'll rev up if there's a leak anywhere.


great idea!! too bad i'm back at my apartment and wont be there for another weak :o :beer

[MTS]

you where turning the idle up when you where screwing it in, the valve lash should be set to .002

[kilabeez0]

you where turning the idle up when you where screwing it in, the valve lash should be set to .002

i read that on a search tonite, stock setting is .003 though? what's the difference between .002 and .004? no smart ass answers please :Bounce

[MTS]

oh crap, i dunno what i was thinkinh, your right its .003 stupid me...

[83185s]

uh thats an air leak problem...if u have one..buy some silicon gasket maker! it works great..just smear it all over the intake boots! i fixed mine that way..lol..if its not the boots then trailprotrailpro runnin really lean!

[TimSr]

i'm not sure which screw it was, all i know is it wasn't the pilot screw on the bottom, i checked that and set it to spec, there is only 1 other adjust screw and that's on the side, and that's what i was playing with to no avail.

as for the header it's a stock pipe and it's in mint shape so i'm sure it's not too thin.

If it wasnt the pilot screw, and you were turning it IN, then you were turning the idle UP. Before you get too technical here, and start chasing everybody's wild techno-guesses, you really need to verify this. The idle screw pushes directly on the thottle slide. The more you screw it in, the more it opens your throttle!

The difference between .002" and .004" is insignificant.

[kilabeez0]

thanks ~

[short4stuff]

did you get your throttle cable situation figured out? .... If not ... turn your slide 180 degrees.... if its reving extremely high, and the slide is in the correct way, then you have an intense intake leak.

[HaggLE]

Just to clarify something, If there is an air leak on the filter side of the carb, that means nothing other than your motor can potentially take in dirt etc. It may make a minor difference to the jetting (bigger cc's the motor the less affect) but no difference at all to the idle. The engine side of the carb is the crucial part. If you remove the carb then from the start of the manifold to the inlet valve (closed) should be air tight. If the engine can get air in other than through the carb then it will not run right.

The low speed mixture screw should be approx 2 full turns OUT from all the way in. This is the recommended starting point.

Take the carb off and look through the hole and press the thumb throttle, make sure that the slide is going all the way closed.

With the valve clearances, .002, .003, .004 who cares! As long the valve closes all the way or its no more than .015 gap, it will run.

Yes turning the idle speed screw in will make the idle higher.

[busy44]

There is a gasket on top the carb ( the cable thing that you screw to carb on top) if you unscrew it look up there make sure its not damaged then screw it on carefully assuring the slide goes in correctly and tighten snugly. mine was not sealing correctly and air was getting in there.

[RideRed250R]

trailprotrailpro carb could need a new rebuild kit, when they dont respond like that it ussaully means there worn out
adam

[MTS]

haha, this is compleatly off the topic kinda, my friend had a 200s that would rev high all the time constantly you had to run with the choke on and we adjuested everything changed carbs ect ect ect, what it was eventually was some really wonky valve springs, looks like someone had taken them out of a car or a bigger motor of some sort lol

[Rex Karz]

And set your valves on a dead cold engine, as in off overnight.

[kilabeez0]

i thought i already replied to this.

anyway thanks for all the ideas. valves were set dead cold because it's never been run, carb is all rebuilt, but it had been sitting for sometime so i took it apart and blew cleaner in it.

I took off the CDI cover and stator cover and aligned everything up on TDC. Including the little cdi thing behind the 10mm bolt with the rubber piece. Apparently that's supposed to be lined up when the crank is on the F mark. Would this be the cause of my glowing hot headpipe? Maybe the timing is WAAAY advanced causing it to run hot?

[mwill15]

If your timing is extremely advanced, you could definately run hot. Detination would also be evident. Your problem really sounds like an air leak, though. But, yes the line on the cdi and the magneto should line up at the same time that the F mark on the flywheel is lined up with the casting on the inside of the case.

Don't over think the situation. Try the starter fluid trick, it works wonders.

Good luck.