Huffa
02-17-2005, 07:10 PM
We had talked about this a few days ago or so. Here are my findings from installing a new one.
StangLX 302 stated : Regardless of what the manual says, you DO NOT have to remove the engine from the trike, the head,the valve cover, or the cam. Just take all the CDI stuff off. Unbolt the gear from the cam and slide it down on the nose part.
Remove the old chain and fish the new one down through there. Loosen the tensioner all the way (In fact, I took it right off) and pop the new one on the gears.
I did a complete timing chain swap from start to finish in under 45 minutes, taking my time.
Oh yeah, VERY important. Make sure the timing mark is on the T and the dot on the cam lines up with the triangle.
He is "right on" about the procedure but you must take extreme care when installing chain on and around crank!! At 1st I thought it wouldn't work as the chain didn't seem to want to flex enough to go around the crank and I certainly didn't want to force it but then with a bit of fanageling with the chain suddenly it gave me just enough clearence to loop it over with out forcing. You just have to get the links to postion themselfs right and it will work.
If you feel more comfortable going from the bottom up (fishing it up with wire) then certainly do so. It really can't take that much longer.
I also found that with the flywheel mark at the "T" line that the cam sprocket "0" mark will be off by a millimeter or 2 from the "V" mark on engine no matter what you do! I have found this to be a common thing with Hondas. My CRF 450 is and always will be off by about 3 mm and thats the way it came from the factory. Other Hondas I have done were also off too. Here are some pic's.
1st pic - I color the timing marks with fingernail polish. Just makes a bit easier to read. The srew driver inserted in the starter basket is there to balance the flywheel so the "T" mark stays in the right position. With out it, it tends to move forward a bit.
2nd pic you can clearly see (finger nail polish again) how the marks are off by a bit. This is normal........ and I did try moving the sprocket one tooth just to make sure. It was waaaay off then so this is the right position for at least this 200S.
3rd pic is how I marked the flywheel. The longer lines are just to show you that it is coming up to veiw in site "window" on casing.
4th Pic ....I have a ? for you. I watched carefully to see just what was going on with that set up when the flywheel was off. It seems the nut underneath the bolt was changing the tension when turned in & out and the shaft from the tensioner doesn't bottom against that bolt. [B]What does that bolt do???? It's only a 1/2" long and doesn't seem to do anything????? Once the engine is running will the tension shaft then bottom against this? I CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT :wondering :cry: B]
StangLX 302 stated : Regardless of what the manual says, you DO NOT have to remove the engine from the trike, the head,the valve cover, or the cam. Just take all the CDI stuff off. Unbolt the gear from the cam and slide it down on the nose part.
Remove the old chain and fish the new one down through there. Loosen the tensioner all the way (In fact, I took it right off) and pop the new one on the gears.
I did a complete timing chain swap from start to finish in under 45 minutes, taking my time.
Oh yeah, VERY important. Make sure the timing mark is on the T and the dot on the cam lines up with the triangle.
He is "right on" about the procedure but you must take extreme care when installing chain on and around crank!! At 1st I thought it wouldn't work as the chain didn't seem to want to flex enough to go around the crank and I certainly didn't want to force it but then with a bit of fanageling with the chain suddenly it gave me just enough clearence to loop it over with out forcing. You just have to get the links to postion themselfs right and it will work.
If you feel more comfortable going from the bottom up (fishing it up with wire) then certainly do so. It really can't take that much longer.
I also found that with the flywheel mark at the "T" line that the cam sprocket "0" mark will be off by a millimeter or 2 from the "V" mark on engine no matter what you do! I have found this to be a common thing with Hondas. My CRF 450 is and always will be off by about 3 mm and thats the way it came from the factory. Other Hondas I have done were also off too. Here are some pic's.
1st pic - I color the timing marks with fingernail polish. Just makes a bit easier to read. The srew driver inserted in the starter basket is there to balance the flywheel so the "T" mark stays in the right position. With out it, it tends to move forward a bit.
2nd pic you can clearly see (finger nail polish again) how the marks are off by a bit. This is normal........ and I did try moving the sprocket one tooth just to make sure. It was waaaay off then so this is the right position for at least this 200S.
3rd pic is how I marked the flywheel. The longer lines are just to show you that it is coming up to veiw in site "window" on casing.
4th Pic ....I have a ? for you. I watched carefully to see just what was going on with that set up when the flywheel was off. It seems the nut underneath the bolt was changing the tension when turned in & out and the shaft from the tensioner doesn't bottom against that bolt. [B]What does that bolt do???? It's only a 1/2" long and doesn't seem to do anything????? Once the engine is running will the tension shaft then bottom against this? I CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT :wondering :cry: B]