Restoring my Tri Z, questions!!

[honda200]

1)

I am going to get another set of rear rims for my tri z, the steel rear ones and the gold front one just dont cut it!! and since i gotta set of Razrs sitting upstairs in my shop, i will mount them, now, i tried my old warrior gold rims, but the tri z hubs are smaller, will blaster rims work? or are they tottally different?

2)

I am going to rip the motor out tommorow night, is there anything that i should take in accouant for? when i have it out, i will be cracking the cases and inspecting everything for too much wear and tear, the motor will be scattered all over my bench for about 2 weeks while i send the top end out to get bored and a new piston fitted for it.

3)

rebuilding water pumps, never done it before, what is there to do?? I cant find a clymer manual at my work or on ebay, so i cant really tell what i need and such

4)

Carburator boot, from the air box, i need one, badly, mine dont have one, and i cant find one in any catologues, or any of the wrecked tri z boxes, and i aint going to run it without an air filter, i may do a possible clamp on the carb filter, if i have to....

5)

the frame, I am undecded of when i have the motor out if i will be painting the frame or not, if i do, then what do i do about the vin number? will it sanblast off? will it be painted over when i apply the 2 or more coats then clear??

6)

cleaning my plastics, this is a toughy, i cant afford new ones, i have no choice but to clean these ones up the best i can, and they really aint that bad, i can pressure wash off the one wiesco decal thats on the back, and i can clean up the plastics pretty good with this amazing truck wash soap we have, its used for lifting tar and ashpualt off dump trucks, so i can get them cleaned up pretty good

Thanks

Curtis

[Derrick Adams]

Nice trike! That's the one you just picked up right?

Here's some info to help you out.

1) Rear rims: Your Z has the same bolt pattern as the Blaster. Most Blasters have steel rims too, though. You can easily switch to Banshee hubs and run the more plentiful Banshee/Warrior/YFZ rims. This would also allow you to run your gold Warrior rims, if you like gold wheels. Lastly, if you want to keep the original hubs, you can easily post up that you would like some stock gold rear wheels and I'm sure someone has some that they will part with CHEAP.

2) Engine inspection: The only thing that i've heard of that is a wear item on the Z bottom end is the woodruff key behind the flywheel. So I would inspect or replace that, while it's down. I'm told they are only around $2. Also, some light lock-tight on the flywheel retaining nut may be a good idea, as they are known for backing off.

3) Waterpump inspection: The waterpump seal is generally the replacement part here. Still available for around $20. (Banshee is the same) Also, inspect the waterpump shaft for wear, where it rides against the seal. If there is a groove there, it may be time to replace it. Not sure if the Banshee one is interchangable with it, but if it is, there are lots of upgraded ones available.

4) Carb Boot: Again, post up what you need in the Classifieds forum, those parts are plentiful and cheap to get.

5) Frame Vin#: It's been my experience that these numbers aren't stamped very deep. Half of my numbers are unrecognizable just from cables rubbing on them. So, I would suggest that if you decide to blast the frame, lightly do that area and document the # before you repaint it.

6) Plastic cleaning: If your plastic is the Original stuff then you could probably get some "plastic renew" and rework it. Lots of guys on the board have had great success with sanding progressively smoother and then polishing stock plastic. If your running the older dull plastic, I've had good results in getting it clean with some "Soft-Scrub" form the cleaning supplies, in the grocery store.

Hope that helps ya!

[honda200]

thanks for the answers!!!

I might have located a carb boot at my work, but i cannot tell if it is for my bike or not, is there a picture someone can take so i can tell if its the right one or not??

Thanks again

Curtis

[honda200]

ok, couple more questions, sorry to bug you guys!!!

7) whe i am am splitting the cases, the mechanic at my work said take a thin peice of steel and wedge it in between the cracks, do this all around and then it will eventually come apart by hand, is this the easiest way to do it??

8) when i install all the new gaskets, do i need to apply any type of glue? or does it just hold in place by itself after the bolts are in??

Thanks!!!

Curtis

[Dammit!]

7: Combo of that and a rubber mallet to tap the cases with should do it.

8: I've always just used a good grease for most gaskets. You sure as hell don't want to use glue.

[honda200]

lol, ok thanks guys

the only grease i have is Super blu, it cost like 35 bucks for 4 of them, is that stuff good enough??

Curtis

[MTS]

that thin piece of steel will work if you wana wreck your cases....NEVER USE METAL to pry the cases apart....once all the bolts are out use a rubber mallet, preferbly a shot filled one and tap the cases apart, you can tap lightligh on the end of the crank too.....case splitters work best....

[Maine_Triker]

Use plastic renew on your fenders, it comes out awesome.

[honda200]

thanks for the replies, i am goign to be ordering a brand new air filter to carb boot and a service manual in 2 weeks (i just spent 500 bucks on my truck, i am short some cash right now) and when i do that i will be sending the top end out

Curtis

[honda200]

ok, i got an actual yamaha service manual for this bike, right from 1986, its a little peice of history!! lol, its complete and for 10 bucks, i couldnt resist. the air filter to carb boot/joint, whatever its called is going to cost me 72.19 canadian :O !!!!!

I am going to be drawing up my own TRI Z rear decals, I am not too keen on the stock ones, and since my plastic still shows a slight outline, i can just trace that and make my own.

as for motor mods, heres what i have in mind:

bore
slightly higher compression piston
possibly bigger carb (if i can find one)
intake and exhaust porting (if i can get it done cheap enough when it is getting bored)

now, for cosmetics, heres what i am doing:

stripping down to bare frame, sand blasting the frame and primering it myself, then, hopefully my co workers uncle has his powder coating kiln up and running and i can get the frame powder coated in red

the swing arm i am going to just shine up, make it look new again

plastics, i am designing my own decals, and when i get them being made, i will be cleaning my plastics with that plastic re new stuff, or, if i find a splurge of money, i will buy new Maier's

tires, for the rears, i am buying either 20 inch Razr's on 9 inch rims (have to find rims first) or, my co worker has ice racing style tires, 20 inch for 8 inch rims, 90% tread left, sell them to me cheap, (they were on his 1987 ATC 250R < no, thats not a typo, he owns a 1987 250R)

It has a hand made grab bar on it now, i will probaly update to a DG or something else.

I am buying my buddies DG silencer since the one on mine looks like crap

the rear shock in my Z is leaking slightly, i am either going to re build it, or buy the banshee shock sitting at my work, undecided yet...

So far thats it, if you got any suggestions for me, let me know!!

Curtis

[Maine_Triker]

Actually, you can get Tri-Z rear fenders right from your yamaha dealer, for about $100. I know you can get them in the States, not sure about Canada tho.

[honda200]

ok, i have 4 local dealers, and i am good friends with the one, and hes the guy that hooks me up with my aftermarket warrior stuff, so i will try him :D

Curtis